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Ondrawad (Read 425145 times)

andy popp

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#1925 Re: Ondrawad
November 05, 2018, 11:46:28 am
I presume Meltdown is still unrepeated?

Ru

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teestub

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#1927 Re: Ondrawad
November 05, 2018, 12:05:09 pm
I would assume Andy is referring to Rodden's route in Yosemite of the same name, which I believe is unrepeated. I saw on Insta that Katha Sarwein was checking it out.

andy popp

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#1928 Re: Ondrawad
November 05, 2018, 12:12:15 pm
Indeed, I was. I'm sure Ondra has plenty of big walls left to try but Meltdown seems like an obvious challenge - unrepeated for 10 years.

SA Chris

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#1929 Re: Ondrawad
November 05, 2018, 01:23:20 pm
He should have tried it when his fingers were still skinny.

Duma

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#1930 Re: Ondrawad
November 06, 2018, 08:20:16 am
He's already left yosemite I believe

andy popp

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#1931 Re: Ondrawad
November 08, 2018, 03:23:00 pm
Failed to onsight To Bolt or Not to Be. Did onsight Scarface and White Wedding - I guess an onsight of Just Do It is the target?

SA Chris

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#1932 Re: Ondrawad
November 08, 2018, 04:16:41 pm
Assume he got straight on TBONTB and did a quick redpoint?

Kingy

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#1933 Re: Ondrawad
November 10, 2018, 08:25:21 am
2nd ascent of Drew Ruana's 'The Assassin', a stout 9a linkup of all the hard routes in Aggro Gully and the hardest route at Smith. He did this second day on and first try (having tried some of the individual routes it takes in before).

Here is Drew on the FA

Doylo

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#1934 Re: Ondrawad
November 10, 2018, 08:56:59 am
Just Do It on sight coming up?

Kingy

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#1935 Re: Ondrawad
November 10, 2018, 08:58:43 am
Yes I understand that may be on the agenda!  :popcorn:

monkoffunk

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#1936 Re: Ondrawad
November 10, 2018, 09:31:13 am
Assume he got straight on TBONTB and did a quick redpoint?

Not according to his 8a log book!

Nibile

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#1937 Re: Ondrawad
November 10, 2018, 01:34:06 pm
Failed to onsight the Salathe, failed to onsight a miserable 1000 moves 8b+, jesuschrist Ondra pull your finger out or in a couple of months you'll find yourself arguing about HVS's on UKC.

cheque

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#1938 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 12:15:40 am

Nibile

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#1939 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 06:41:59 am
There you go.
Outstanding, on such a route.

shark

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#1940 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 10:57:52 am
Amazingly intricate type of route to onsight at this, or any, grade

bendavison

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#1941 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 11:51:25 am
What a legend. With a massive crowd by the sounds of it...

Amazingly intricate type of route to onsight at this, or any, grade

Kingy might be able to shed some light on how onsightable the route is, since he's been on it so much. Is the sequence very complicated or difficult to read? Or relatively basic face-style climbing? I imagine some of the hand and footholds are quite bad...

Nibile

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#1942 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 01:04:40 pm
From Mountainproject:

Description
Haven't been on this myself, but figured it needed a description on MP. I think the most recent ascents (since 2012) of this classic route was by Ryan Palo, Paige Classen and Drew Ruana.

Palo describes it in an interview post-send:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."
It wasn't onsightable, until Ondra onsighted it.

bigironhorse

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#1943 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 05:19:58 pm

Doylo

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#1944 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 05:46:59 pm
Heís canít have too many historically significant routes from that era left. Still got the first 8c+ in the world to try OS  :whistle:

Steve R

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Kingy

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#1947 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 07:01:11 pm
This is an absolutely phenomenal ascent!!!  :o :dance1: It took me 3 years and was at the very limit of my ability but I suppose he has the level to take in this kind of difficulty on sight. I have seen the Reddit video and he climbs it almost exactly like I did (there aren't many options, the top part in the purple rock is hard because its crimpy and powerful not because its massively technical).

The breakdown is like Ryan Palo says. The first 5 bolts are tricky vert with a particularly thin deadpoint to a crimp from a tiny sidepull by the 4th bolt and a really tweaky 2 finger pocket move by the 5th bolt. Then its pretty chill to the 8th bolt (around 7b). There is then a very tricky pocket move where you have to jump for a finger sloper - to onsight this is nuts. After that there are some easier move leading to the famous 'Sharma' rest just under the 10th bolt where he takes his jumper off (not quite hands off). If you have the bottom bit wired then I think its fair for 8a+, otherwise soft 8b (easier than Predator as there are lots of rests). Then there is a pumpy 7b+/7c leading to a good flat ledge to shake out by the 13th bolt. From here to the top is 8b (or 2 Font 7b+ boulders separated by the 'porthole' rest then some still tricky 'outro' moves).

Here is Drew Ruana on his ascent in 2015

cheque

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#1948 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 07:26:07 pm
Too young to remember this?

That hasnít dated a bit. ;D

tim palmer

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#1949 Re: Ondrawad
November 11, 2018, 09:35:16 pm
Enduro 8c+ pretty middle of the road for ondra no?