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Ondrawad (Read 856903 times)

Duma

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#1725 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2017, 09:27:11 am
Interview excluding climbing:

http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-interview/

jfdm

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#1726 Re: Ondrawad
June 29, 2017, 09:19:04 pm
Short clip about the Ondra climbing philosophy

jfdm

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#1727 Re: Ondrawad
August 29, 2017, 08:34:58 pm
Ondra's flash/redpoint attempts now draw big crowds!
Footage a bit ropey.
He's a beast 17 minutes clinging to rock that steep is superhuman.

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#1728 Re: Ondrawad
August 29, 2017, 09:13:11 pm
Flippin heck. How does he deal with that shit.

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#1729 Re: Ondrawad
August 30, 2017, 06:50:32 am
Was that a Billboard at the foot of the crag?

Fiend

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#1730 Re: Ondrawad
August 30, 2017, 08:46:39 am
Guessing it's some sort of organised event........

remus

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#1731 Re: Ondrawad
October 09, 2017, 10:49:07 am
Looks like he's still got an eye for some lowball limestone hate crimping.

Drift, 8C, FA


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#1732 Re: Ondrawad
October 09, 2017, 11:12:36 am
Some of his Czech crags really make Blackwelldale look good.

remus

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#1733 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 09:36:30 am
More butt scraping limestone goodness, this time at a weighty 8C/+.


dave

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#1734 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 09:55:49 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

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#1735 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 10:07:09 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

I'm glad the best climber in the world is a proper climber

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#1736 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 10:26:58 am
I like his attitude: "Let's wear a kneepad, just in case."
Then: "Fuck the kneebars let's just fucking obliterate this shit."

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#1737 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 10:35:14 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

This. More inspirational than Reel Rock.

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#1738 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 10:48:59 am
Eliminate arse drags at unaesthetic glued crags are the best.

Regards, Teaboy who also couldn't afford a trip to Rocklands this year!

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#1739 Re: Ondrawad
October 16, 2017, 11:38:44 am
Long live chossy lime.

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#1740 Re: Ondrawad
February 01, 2018, 11:48:18 am
Ondra has repeated Meiose, the link-up between Chromosome X and Y in Charmey. Ondra needed three tries (he flashed Chromosme Y three years ago) and says that 9a+ is closer to reality than the previously proposed 9b.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

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#1741 Re: Ondrawad
February 01, 2018, 01:41:43 pm
Apparently Ondra found a kneebar just before the second hard boulder problem. Bertle had stated that the second hard boulder had to be climbed without any rest or shakeout, hence I assume he did it without the kneebar. Certainly, the easiest beta (and hence the kneebar) counts, but it may explain (at least part of) the difference in grade perception.

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#1742 Re: Ondrawad
February 02, 2018, 11:15:45 am
If you watch his video, Bertle uses the knee and shakes on it, but isn't chill like Ondra. Bertle isn't using a pad, which is a bit dumb, and may explain why he can't go no-hands, or Ondra may just be better at knees...

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#1743 Re: Ondrawad
February 03, 2018, 10:35:47 am
Deep thought of the day: Ondra is likely better at everything climbing-related, including knee-bars.

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#1744 Re: Ondrawad
February 03, 2018, 03:03:46 pm
He put in a lot of specific kneebar training for the upside down on in Silence, so anything more vertical probably feels like a cake walk! Think it was similar in the vid of him trying Steve Mac’s hard route.

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#1745 Re: Ondrawad
February 10, 2018, 09:15:52 am
Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487
Pirmin uses the kneebar at ~6:40 here:

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#1746 Re: Ondrawad
February 10, 2018, 09:27:37 am
Wow that's a whole lot of bullshit to try and hold on to the grade of the climb!

Looks like Pirmin should have opted from some rubber, rather than a polkadot patch on his trousers!

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#1747 Re: Ondrawad
February 10, 2018, 10:12:11 am
Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487

 :lol: :lol: :lol: he sounds like a complete knob. I want Megos to come over and give it 9a now.

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#1748 Re: Ondrawad
February 10, 2018, 10:15:16 am
but pirmin does use a real kneepad. the actual send footage from 4:30.
he really rubs me the wrong way.
fills me with joy to see his 4 year project downgraded.
and for someone who pretends climbing is this spiritual thing, for him to argue that there is an exact amount of tries Ondra should spend on an 9a+ is laughable.
as is the reasoning that it is a 9b because most climbers are 170 cm?? so he graded it for 170 cm and not for himself and ondra who are 184 and 185?

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#1749 Re: Ondrawad
February 10, 2018, 11:09:10 am
Is Pirman as tall as Ondra? Fuck me. So, according to his argument, it might not be 9b for him either? If he was better at kneebars.

 

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