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Ondrawad (Read 856339 times)

Luke Owens

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#1650 Re: Ondrawad
March 26, 2016, 10:59:46 am
 Ondra attempting some on-sights last summer in Ramirole cave, Verdon.


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#1651 Re: Ondrawad
March 30, 2016, 05:15:57 pm
UKC shows that Ondra is still tediously amazing, dispatching a lifetime goal's worth of waddish routes in a weekend - two 9th grade FAs, and two 8c onsights.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70361

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#1652 Re: Ondrawad
March 30, 2016, 05:53:44 pm
Wow - the scrawny jangle of sinew and bone has turned into muscley beast!

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#1653 Re: Ondrawad
March 30, 2016, 10:39:15 pm
That article made my day when I read it yesterday. It's good to have details.

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#1654 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 07:18:49 am

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#1655 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 12:37:50 pm
Nice to see he still has to try hard every now and then.

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#1656 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 01:50:27 pm
Might be good enough for a proper shot at Hubble now.

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#1657 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 02:11:06 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

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#1658 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 03:21:10 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D

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#1659 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 03:25:13 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).

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#1660 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 03:42:35 pm

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).

Yes, exactly, hence the question.

Adam's choice to run it out, vs the belayer's discretion. Difficult one to call maybe, though I'm sure the falls would look safer if the camera panned out a bit.

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#1661 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 03:46:10 pm
He'll be a long way up DT - Santa Linya is massive and mega steep so he'll just fall into space! Plus would imagine the bolts are relatively close together and mainly just dogging bolts?

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#1662 Re: Ondrawad
April 27, 2016, 09:34:19 pm
Adam Ondra cuts it quite fine sometimes with skipping clips, but he seems to be totally unconcerned. The future of alpine sportclimbing looks bright/terrifying

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#1663 Re: Ondrawad
April 28, 2016, 06:42:05 am
I chatted to a friend in Spain when I was out in January who has a lot of experience belaying wads on 9as at places like Santa Linya. I got the impression it's not quite as simple as there being lots of space to fall into and that people were taking risks skipping clips and falling pretty close to the ground at times. She suggested that belaying at this level was quite a skill.

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#1664 Re: Ondrawad
April 28, 2016, 07:31:07 am
Wow. Fair enough - it always looked to me like once you got high up in that cave you could skip loads of clips pretty happily. Do they get E grades?  :P

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#1665 Re: Ondrawad
April 28, 2016, 08:49:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.

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#1666 Re: Ondrawad
April 28, 2016, 09:15:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.

As long as you're comfortable running it out above bolts, then I think the mindset is often 'if you're not gonna hit the ground, why would you waste energy clipping?'. Most seem to plan which ones to clip/skip in advance.

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#1667 Re: Ondrawad
April 28, 2016, 09:20:09 am
Reminds me of a period I spent regularly belaying Jacob Cook and Malham and Kilnsey. 

When he got tired, he would not do what most people do - clutch the nearest draw, squeal "take in!", and hope it went better next time.  Instead, he'd skip clips and keep on trucking in the hope that he'd reach a decent hold where he could gather himself (and finally clip). He would get quite horrendously run-out - made for a worrying belay experience.  Mind you, it generally worked - and I suspect that's the commitment you need if you are to really test your limits. 

It came as no surprise when he started ticking hard E-grades and doing well in Yosemite - he probably made climbing the stairs into a "chop-route". 

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#1668 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2016, 07:47:34 pm
According to 8a.nu he has just done Megos' Geocache, 9a+ in the jura. In a day. From his comment it sounds like it was in a few tries:

Quote
- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

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#1669 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2016, 08:15:09 pm
Showing Megos he's still top dog  :P

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#1670 Re: Ondrawad
June 08, 2016, 11:29:32 am

submaximal gains

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#1671 Re: Ondrawad
June 08, 2016, 12:31:33 pm
That's a great interview :clap2:

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#1672 Re: Ondrawad
June 11, 2016, 01:57:58 am
The article says that La Dura Dura is the worlds first 9b+, I thought Ondra did Change first, then La Dura Dura (followed by Sharma) ?

 8)

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#1673 Re: Ondrawad
June 11, 2016, 05:39:41 am
La Dura Dura is the only one that's been climbed by an American, duh.

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#1674 Re: Ondrawad
June 23, 2016, 09:10:49 am
Agreed corporate guff.

 

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