UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 864709 times)

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1425 Re: Ondrawad
September 03, 2014, 11:00:03 pm
He normally makes 9a look easier than that!

krymson

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 346
  • Karma: +15/-1
#1426 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 01:38:35 am
Indeed! must not be his style.
Or  maybe it's old-school 9a

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13448
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#1427 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 11:18:15 am
Very nice film as usual.

The route did look a bit imbalanced, but still cool to see him climbing it.

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1496
  • Karma: +128/-5
#1428 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 11:42:50 am


So many amazing moments in that clip, foremost being the look on his face when he's sat by the lake at 4.36. Is he thinking about banging one of those Scanda chicks?

Then straight into that amzing dismount at 4.50!

Luke Owens

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1311
  • Karma: +66/-0
    • My Blog
#1429 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 12:21:23 pm
Great video, I love how unphased he is about the deck-outs!

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#1430 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 12:33:36 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1291
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
#1431 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 12:46:16 pm
i believe it's deliberate so that his swing isn't stopped by the rope

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#1432 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 12:47:30 pm
I believe it's shit belaying

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#1433 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 12:49:05 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

That would be very ungentlemanly of you. She's hot, and Ondra's not a pussy like you.

Gus

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 313
  • Karma: +87/-0
  • Smash It In!
#1434 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 01:20:00 pm
Gotta agree with Stu, that belaying is beyond shambles!!

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13448
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#1435 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 01:23:45 pm
Interesting. The Ondranator is obviously okay with it even if you lot aren't - look how casually he touches down on the final fall of that section. I presume they've discussed the belaying and that's the way he prefers. Although a pad on that rock wouldn't go amiss!

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#1436 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 03:07:25 pm
The amount of slack is clearly so that the rope cannot in any way help to stop the swing. Ondra comes across as a bit extrem on ethical issues from time to time.

Fultonius

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4331
  • Karma: +138/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#1437 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 03:16:55 pm
Clearly it's just poorly bolted, which chump bolted it?  ;)

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7994
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#1438 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 03:20:18 pm
IIRC on La Rambla he skipped a clip that was above his head on the crux slab on top, because he thought that otherwise the weight of the rope would have pulled him up.

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#1439 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 04:15:29 pm
Looks well nice that Flatanger.  The part of me that doesn't like following the crowd to the latest in vogue climbing area doesn't want to go there.  Every other part of me does!

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1440 Re: Ondrawad
September 04, 2014, 06:55:48 pm
Yes he was keen to avoid rope killing the swing and yes he still didn't need that much slack. He seemed to be happy with the belay though. Probably didn't want to offend the young lady  :lets_do_it_wild:

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 549
  • Karma: +40/-4
#1441 Re: Ondrawad
September 07, 2014, 03:26:58 am
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

After 3 days of listening to him scream like a demented child I'd be trying to drop him onto a rock too! Somebody give the poor lass some ear muffs ffs.

Clart

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 417
  • Karma: +31/-2
  • Safe as f*ck
#1442 Re: Ondrawad
September 15, 2014, 09:04:02 pm
World Championship Spoiler Alert.........

NSFW  :
Ondra, officially wad of wads. World bouldering and lead champion, climber of 9b+s and potty mouth.


jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#1443 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 06:10:54 pm

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1444 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 06:45:40 pm
Quality. Funny to see Ondra saying he's too heavy, climbers are all the same really aren't they.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#1445 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 07:41:31 pm
Quote from: Ondrawad
not heavy for my height, of course; losing weight would not be wise in my case

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1446 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 08:05:10 pm
Still saying he'd get spanked on a crimp ladder by the lightweights  :ras:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4235
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#1447 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 09:15:15 pm
That's physics innit, the scaling law

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#1448 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 09:34:27 pm
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him

cjsheps

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 314
  • Karma: +8/-0
  • The Hero Gotham Deserves.
#1449 Re: Ondrawad
September 22, 2014, 10:11:15 pm
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal