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Ondrawad (Read 856220 times)

lukeyboy

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#1175 Re: Ondrawad
October 22, 2013, 01:08:34 pm
Some slightly disappointing news (I think so anyway) - sounds as though Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock. Maybe he's sick of FA's and is waiting for someone else to put up a route hard enough for him to bother trying...

Still, suffice to say he'll probably get a bit done in those "couple of short trips"!

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#1176 Re: Ondrawad
October 22, 2013, 01:21:48 pm
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though  :ras:

So Nalle didn't send Gioia  and says that? that doesn't make any sense.
Send it and then make your thoughts known, otherwise shut up.

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#1177 Re: Ondrawad
October 22, 2013, 01:24:04 pm
Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock.

This has been on the cards for a while. Wouldn't be surprised if he comes out of it even stronger than before, which can't be a bad thing for the future of sport climbing.

It would be interesting (though probably unlikely) to see some of the current comp beasts take a year off and focus on outdoor FA's. Wonder what Rustam or Dmitri could achieve it they set their minds to it...

gme

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#1178 Re: Ondrawad
October 29, 2013, 12:36:10 pm
Three 9as in a day. Proper ones as well.
All a bit unbelievable really.
And hardly anyone bats an eyelid now.

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#1179 Re: Ondrawad
October 29, 2013, 12:38:09 pm
 :great:


slackline

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#1180 Re: Ondrawad
October 29, 2013, 12:51:27 pm
Quote
Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."

cheque

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#1181 Re: Ondrawad
October 29, 2013, 01:13:34 pm
9a putting the clips in.  8)

slackline

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Doylo

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#1183 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2013, 12:39:10 pm
I guess it's possible when your top grades 9b+. Still ridiculous though

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#1184 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 12:46:39 pm
First comp, first victory.

remus

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#1185 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 01:16:25 pm
vid here:

GraemeA

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#1186 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 01:35:03 pm
The trip over the light was classic.

He was one happy bunny.

Luke Owens

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#1187 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 01:48:39 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

GraemeA

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#1188 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 02:08:34 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

Luke Owens

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#1189 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 02:41:16 pm
No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

Fair play, sounds like it would be ideal with him being in University.

Any idea what he's studying? I find it strange to think he'd carry on studying when he could clearly live off climbing.

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#1190 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 02:48:15 pm
I guess with climbing (and most sports) you are one very bad day away from retirement. So worth while getting a back up plan.

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#1191 Re: Ondrawad
November 04, 2013, 02:59:49 pm
He might enjoy his studies / find them worthwhile as well (see also Landman).

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Doylo

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#1193 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 12:42:35 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

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#1194 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 12:55:19 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

The yanks  believe a lot of things which are factual incorrect and/or false.

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#1195 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 02:01:08 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

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#1196 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 02:06:38 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

No excuse for not doing the research  ;)

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#1197 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 05:06:28 pm
Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+, so therefore the others don't exist.  ;D

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#1198 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 05:13:10 pm
I was going to say something similar but you're better qualified in that respect.... :-)

dave

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#1199 Ondrawad
November 20, 2013, 05:14:49 pm
Didn't someone recently go and do Akira or was that just a beautiful dream?

 

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