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Ondrawad (Read 856407 times)

dave

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#825 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 09:00:39 pm
What the fuck. Somebody buy this kid a train ticket to carnforth.

petejh

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#826 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 09:03:30 pm
Wad the fuck

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#827 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 09:11:11 pm
Phew, that wall is way more overhung than I thought it was, dont know why I thought it was straight up when it is covered in 9a routes...but there you go.  :shrug:

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#828 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 09:23:14 pm
You might be thinking of the wall with pure imagination and golden ticket - pretty sure that's a different wall and is less steep

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#829 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 10:30:07 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)

How young you talking ?

It is kentucky. If you get out your teens unmarried you are regarded as over the hill.

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#830 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 10:57:23 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

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#831 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 11:25:26 pm
Quote
I have done much except this, first two days I was warming up, then I tried 24 Carats, 8c+, and came quite close to onsighting, whereas on Lucifer, 8c+, I was miles away and sent it 4th go. I hadn't thought I was in a good shape, unsure about what to do and whether to save the flashes and onsights for the next year, but luckily I didn't save at least that flash. The grade is definitely 9a (5.14d), I do think that all the guys who gave me the beta (Cedric, Daniel, Jon) agree with that.

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#832 Re: Ondrawad
October 30, 2012, 11:27:16 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

Nibile

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#833 Re: Ondrawad
October 31, 2012, 06:16:11 am
Note the different shoe choice, Futura left, Python right.
Just to be sure nothing is left out of the plan.

SA Chris

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#834 Re: Ondrawad
October 31, 2012, 08:26:12 am
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

So what?  He really should know better.

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#835 Re: Ondrawad
October 31, 2012, 09:29:23 am
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

I'm sure some of them are talking sense, I tried to read it but couldn't manage it.

Flashing 9a is awesome and I agree the "corner" in the background looks ace.

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#836 Re: Ondrawad
October 31, 2012, 09:45:40 am
quick! get that man's metrics to feed into Slackers data bank

Shirley a wider grade spread will make it easier to spot patterns?

Ru

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#837 Re: Ondrawad
October 31, 2012, 11:05:37 pm
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

In my defence, I am ashamed. My excuse was that I'd finished my work and was too ill to train.

a dense loner

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#838 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 09:03:51 am
Ure a barrister man, "I'm ashamed" is no defence!
Was going to suggest anyone replying to that thread be instantly banned from ukb but since we'd lose our 2 smallest posters I'll refrain

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#839 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 09:39:12 am
Yeah if we lose them two then it's just magpie and you.

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#840 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 09:06:38 pm
 :yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

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#841 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 09:15:01 pm
:yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

There was a thread on one of the American forums that I read the other day regarding the recent ascent of Dreamcatcher, in which some tw*t popped up with a snide comment about pre-placed draws. The others very commendably ignored him and carried on with the conversation.

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#842 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 09:28:35 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!

petejh

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#843 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 10:17:24 pm
The guy who onsights indian face.

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#844 Re: Ondrawad
November 01, 2012, 11:24:30 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!

Didn't Ondra do that on Nordic Flower? (or did he downgrade that to 8c+ or something?)

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#845 Re: Ondrawad
November 02, 2012, 12:10:03 am
The guy who onsights indian face.

 :lol:

JMB

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#846 Re: Ondrawad
November 02, 2012, 02:55:43 am
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra

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#847 Re: Ondrawad
November 02, 2012, 07:29:17 am
Ondra seems to be causing more devastation
:strongbench:

Even if they get a downgrade too 8c+ onsight in a day is pretty amazing
 :o

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#848 Re: Ondrawad
November 02, 2012, 07:55:22 am
 :popcorn:
Reminds me of how Moffatt went to Frankenjura in '83 and onsighted the three hardest routes there.


ali k

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#849 Re: Ondrawad
November 02, 2012, 08:45:47 am
Fuck me that is incredible  :o

Not doubting Ondra's grading skills but maybe he is just too strong now. Either that or the routes in RRG are so suited to on-sights that it feels like a redpoint would anywhere else?

 

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