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Ondrawad (Read 856030 times)

Muenchener

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#650 Re: Ondrawad
March 12, 2012, 07:11:47 am
New interview up on Peter Beal's blog


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What is so nice about climbing is that you don't have to be necessarily the strongest to climb the best. You can always find tons of climbers who are physically able to climb really hard, but don't climb efficiently.

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#651 Re: Ondrawad
March 12, 2012, 10:13:05 am
Nice interview, nice to see his passion coming across.

Not sure that video is the most interesting of Adam, though. I still think the 3 from Fontainbleau are the most awesome.

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#652 Re: Ondrawad
March 23, 2012, 04:42:25 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course

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#653 Re: Ondrawad
March 23, 2012, 06:31:56 pm
That's a bit mad.

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#654 Re: Ondrawad
March 24, 2012, 11:03:11 am
This one shows the successful redpoint.


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#655 Re: Ondrawad
March 24, 2012, 01:45:00 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course


on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

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#656 Re: Ondrawad
March 24, 2012, 07:29:02 pm
a cheat stone... really?!?!

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#657 Re: Ondrawad
March 24, 2012, 09:35:19 pm
on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

Never climbed in the area, but from what I recall reading about it yes, that's the normal technique.

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#658 Re: Ondrawad
March 25, 2012, 12:28:24 am
a cheat stone... really?!?!

It's hardly a pile is it? look how boulder strewn the floor is.

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#659 Ondrawad
March 25, 2012, 08:30:13 am


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...

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#660 Re: Ondrawad
March 25, 2012, 06:18:38 pm
I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc

Ever tried a skyhook on sandstone? I have. It cut straight through and dumped me on my arse (fortunately I was trying it out at ground level before embarking on the actual nefarious plan)

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#661 Re: Ondrawad
March 25, 2012, 08:09:07 pm


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Nice. Had to google that.

Yeah right.

There's no shame in being a friend of Dorothy

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#662 Re: Ondrawad
March 25, 2012, 08:13:23 pm
Quote
We're not in Kalymnos anymore, Toto

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#663 Re: Ondrawad
March 28, 2012, 01:52:12 pm
I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).

Its a short 10m if so....



From a report from Adam on Planetmountain.com which has more details on the route which was originally bolted on abseil by a German ignoring the local ethics.  These bolts were chopped and new ones placed ground-up.

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#664 Re: Ondrawad
March 28, 2012, 02:25:44 pm
So this is the famous Czech ethics to protect the rock??  :unsure: :???: :-\

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#665 Re: Ondrawad
March 28, 2012, 02:27:25 pm
It works quite well, at least north of the border. Go there and see for yourself.

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#666 Re: Ondrawad
March 28, 2012, 02:41:35 pm
This one shows the successful redpoint.
Adam Ondra climb, To tu ještě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí.
At 6 minutes....after a load of edit-out-able attempts! Pity they didn't have a cameraman in the tree as the climbing you can see looks cool.

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#667 Re: Ondrawad
April 08, 2012, 08:36:02 am
Ondra did the 2nd ascent of Moroni's 8c+ "bella regis", on sight s'il vous plait.

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#668 Re: Ondrawad
April 08, 2012, 01:30:58 pm
not enough can be said for just how good he is. his ability to read the rock of something so hard whilst on-sighting is incredible. :bow:

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#669 Re: Ondrawad
April 10, 2012, 07:41:30 pm
He has just onsighted El Frutto del Diavolo, Gabri Moroni's Italian 8c+ FA

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#670 Re: Ondrawad
April 10, 2012, 07:58:27 pm
From http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update
about El Frutto del Diavolo: "Unfortunately for Adam, his foot slipped and the onsight attempt failed."

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#671 Re: Ondrawad
April 10, 2012, 08:36:25 pm
Oops, jumped the gun!

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#672 Re: Ondrawad
April 10, 2012, 09:37:20 pm
Can't win em all...

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#673 Re: Ondrawad
April 11, 2012, 06:16:47 am
You start with a foot slip on an 8c+ onsight, and before you realize it, your career is over. Happened to me also. True story.

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#674 Re: Ondrawad
April 11, 2012, 10:26:31 am
Punter!

 

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