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Ondrawad (Read 856794 times)

slackline

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#625 Re: Ondrawad
January 24, 2012, 11:13:24 am
Too busy (don't remember seeing it myself either), probably be in part 3 from Black Diamond I'd imagine.

remus

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#626 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 05:26:02 pm

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#627 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 05:34:03 pm
Now THAT is quality. Enjoyed that video far more than the movie.

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#628 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 07:00:27 pm
Thats superb. Gripping... he really really gave it some beans on that move... :) Superb.

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#629 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 07:40:37 pm

Just amazing  :bow:

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#630 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 08:04:23 pm
Awesome.....truly deserving of waddage!

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#631 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 08:54:40 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!

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#632 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 08:59:52 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!

I love it how he does the hard move (I guess) gets the hold on the lip and then does what we all do - think its all over then has to pull himself to gether to get the last couple of moves... Its great that he's so natural...

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#633 Re: Ondrawad
January 30, 2012, 10:10:10 pm
Bloody amazing!

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#634 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 08:57:48 am
 :o

From the Black Diamond Journal...

Quote from: Adam Ondra
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.

Quote
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.

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#635 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 09:10:37 am
Waddage to Ondra and punterage to Slackline.  ;)

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#636 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 09:32:44 am
Christ that boy's good.  I've long been reconciled with being shit because I lack any natural talent; there's the comfort that there's not much I can do about it.  But then I see Ondra climb and realise that I don't try hard enough either, and there's no real excuse for that. 

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#637 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 09:41:07 am
I agree completely. He gives it all, and that's great and an example for us all.

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#638 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 10:34:09 am
 :oops: Got a bit carried away there.

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#639 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 11:59:34 am
Quote
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day

Good to know he has some of the same hassles as the rest of us too.

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#640 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 12:29:28 pm
With such a display of power, class and focus, all they are capable of doing on 8a is arguing if it was a real flash, because he touched the holds. Sad People.

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#641 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 12:41:52 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

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#642 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 12:45:14 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

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#643 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 12:48:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

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#644 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 12:50:18 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Yeah! The Skype interviews were really nice, to see someone who despite all the big numbers is just excited about doing good bouldering. I like that almost as much as your double quote, but not quite.

Moose, trying hard is a good point.....but it can happen at any level!

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#645 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 01:33:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

:) nope, but theres a market ;)

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#646 Re: Ondrawad
January 31, 2012, 04:52:07 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
:) nope, but theres a market ;)
Quote from: Jaspersharpe
Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

Don't be ridiculous, it's easy.


I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?


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#647 Re: Ondrawad
February 04, 2012, 11:53:21 am
Stevie H just posted an interview on his blog (but says it's a repost of a magazine article from last year, so apologies if everybody else has already seen it)

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#648 Re: Ondrawad
February 04, 2012, 12:38:00 pm


anyone know the name of the song thats on when hes climbing actually? there is a tracklist at the bottom but that song doesnt seem to be in there...

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#649 Re: Ondrawad
February 06, 2012, 01:25:10 pm
Old now, and I've probably already seen it & forgotten, but Ondra at Raven Tor on Revelations and Chimes of Freedom


 

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