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Ondrawad (Read 855873 times)

ianv

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#400 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 08:59:25 am
did ondra do anything at the tor after he stopped laughing?

dave

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#401 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 09:08:32 am
I doubt there was anyone to chaperone him on pinches wall at that time in the morning, so I imagine he couldn't get warmed up.

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#402 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 10:15:29 am
Report on UKC says he got pretty close to doing Hubble.

Ru

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#403 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 11:40:15 am
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

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#404 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 11:55:34 am
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

According to Climber

'We received word from Ondra's friend and photographer Vojtech Vrzba, who is accompanying him again on this trip, this evening. He confirmed that Ondra sent Overshadow on his first attempt of the day on Monday and then went on to onsight Bat Route and narrowly missing an onsight of Unjustified. '

From Steve's blog that would be the same day he also fitted a working go on Rainshadow before redpointing it the next morning.

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#405 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 02:07:53 pm
Words of the wad himself on 8a.nu re: Rainshadow: "Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

How cool is that!?  :2thumbsup:

He described Overshadow as 'a mental war'!

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#406 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 02:25:05 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

Ru

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#407 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 02:47:56 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."

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#408 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 02:52:34 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."
Coming over here, climbing our routes....

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#409 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 02:55:55 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

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#410 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 04:09:31 pm
I hope this means that some of our youngsters get on geriatric Steve's routes now, has this not broken down the aura that surrounded them.

I know ondra is a in a league of his own but surely a few of our top boys could start making a dint into these world class routes with a bit of effort. We constantly claim not to have any good hard routes here or that the ones we do are never in condition but that's obviously just bollocks. Ondra is a man/boy who has done or been on the hardest and best routes in the world and places rainshadow and northern lights as amongst the best. Is it really the case that the only UK climber capable of climbing them is more than old enough to to be Adams dad (granddad in certain parts of Liverpool).

Its nice to see he "failed" to do a 20 year old route on his jollys, i know he only spent 3 hours on it but he seems to onsight 8c+  every other week so 3 hours should have been ample time.

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#411 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 04:14:24 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

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#412 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 04:14:34 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

I took it to mean:

Rainshadow is one of the best routes I have done. It is only spoiled slightly by the fact that its start (up Raindogs) is polished.

Which I thought was good for Steve and the rep of UK sport climbing!


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#413 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 04:27:42 pm
Apologies for my ignorance. It is quite obvious when you know that Rainshadow starts up Raindogs  ::)

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#414 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 04:38:42 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

I think the SYKE that Adam has managed to impart over here with his visits can only help encourage some of us Brits onto these hard routes. Sam 'had a look' at both Rainshadow and Bat route the other day, and he had a massive smile on his face when he came down.
I'll certainly have a dabble at some point in the future.

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#415 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 05:26:38 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

definately means the second.

Ru

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#416 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 09:02:27 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?

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#417 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 10:08:33 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

Hope it wasn't an important one. :(

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#418 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 10:20:44 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?

he looked exceptionally hungry

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#419 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 19, 2011, 11:05:17 pm
So did he climb Unjustified and downgrade it to 8b+ (assuming he thought it easier that Bat Route) or did he just try to flash it and fall because of a broken foot hold?

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#420 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 20, 2011, 09:13:53 am
Few good snaps courtesy of the other channel: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62293

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#421 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 20, 2011, 09:26:48 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.

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#422 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 20, 2011, 09:27:53 am
Nice, he looks like he's really enjoying himself.  :clap2:

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#423 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 20, 2011, 09:53:32 am
the smug twat ;)

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#424 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 20, 2011, 10:56:50 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.

It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe

 

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