[robertostallioni]

So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link.  And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?

I believe Steve onsighted the Oak, but that may just be

I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.

completely agree.

[north_country_boy]

Retroflash I believe. He'd been on it a few years previous....

[robertostallioni]

Anybody know how to get a Tat removed?

[Tommy]

Ok you can all breathe a sigh of relief, Ondra has done the deed and ticked it.

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/ondra-sent-overshadow-9a-

Or..... is this the new best climbing website in the world where the future is predicted??!!  Classic.

[r-man]

Oh dear. I saw 8a.nu published an extract from Keith's blog yesterday. It reads:

He wasted no time adding to his score-card (check it out here www.8a.nu) with on-sights of Zoolook (F8a) and Overnite Sensation (F8a+). Next up was Overshadow (F9a+), Steve McClure’s 2007 mega route.

8a.nu presented it poorly, and I imagine up-climbing were one of many who didn't bother to read the rest of the blog. Oh dear.

[The Sausage]

So, when's he getting on the vice? I've been waiting up there all week...

[Jaspersharpe]

Awesome thread re Ondra and re grades. Paul is right of course, the grades 8b/8b+/8c/8c+ were established or consolidated in Provence and the UK. There is absolutely no reason for other areas to use a "Nu Skool" (or "soft") system. It's just caused confusion, argument and lots of people to think they climb harder than they actually do. When people say the grades in the UK and at Buoux are nails they're mistaking nails for correct. These routes were the benchmark, everything else is wrong.

[Paul B]

Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

He was asked directly about Overshadow and said he hadn't done it and didn't think he'd get it in this trip, am I missing something here? Ru?

[Falling Down]

No you're not. Like 8a.spew, The (fuck)up climbing news article was only linked to Keith's blog entry from Thursday - Tommy was being funny 

[dave]

So he onsighted OVershadow? AWESOME FUCKING WELLES. OMG STFU !!!!!!!!!111111111111111!!!!!!!!!!!

[jonny2vests]

I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...

That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

Yep, that'd put him in his place...

Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that. 

[Ru]

Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that.

One of the problems with UKC is that a) people post uninformed drivel on there all the time, b) people parody the uninformed drivel in exactly the same, terminally unfunny way, all the time. Telling the two apart is hard.

[jonny2vests]

Apologies for being terminally unfunny.  How might one rectify the situation so I can up my game to your standards?  Or am I a lost cause, uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.

[Falling Down]

Content, delivery and timing....

[Danger]

uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.

I don't know, I reckon a fish with tits would be pretty cool.

[dave]

mermaids are hot.

[GraemeA]

[jonny2vests]

mermaids are hot.

Yeah, till you try boffing one.

[jonny2vests]

Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

[Falling Down]

Your welcome 

[SA Chris]

mermaids are so hot right now.

Especially deep fried with chips.

[DaveC]

From an ageing Czech wonderkind (at what age do you stop being one of those?) ticking hard routes at Malham to the problems of shagging a fish with tits in about a dozen posts, this thread is a masterpiece people!  

[tomtom]

Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required 

[Tris]

Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights? 

[Fiend]

I vote for the fish with tits too.