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Ondrawad (Read 855977 times)

Paul B

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#75 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 08:35:36 pm
'5' Star Photo
5 Star Photo

I'd say its justified. I don't think Serpico is being cynical at all, more realistic. With it being a bank holiday weekend Malham Catwalk ain't going to be a quiet place to be.

robertostallioni

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#76 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 08:42:37 pm
Nice photo of him passing the first bolt, that.

chris_j_s

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#77 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 08:59:40 pm
I'm well aware of the photos you're talking about and its only a personal view but I think you're wrong.

Al Lee's pictures are stunning but they're painstakingly set up beforehand with prior knowledge of where steve was going to be and what he was going to be climbing so they really should be good, whereas my understanding of these are that they were opportunistic captures of something that a lot of peoplke would clearly be interested in.

No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Serpico is perfectly entitled to his views and no-ones forcing him to go to Malham this weekend. I just thought his comments were a little unnecessary. Doesn't really matter of course.

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#78 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:19:31 pm
 No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

For what it's worth I think these photos could be worth a 5 simply because they're pretty good on their own merit with added marks for the subject. It's easy to get another perfect shot of hand just latching the top of Deliverence whilst chalk dust hangs in the air but I think uniqeness should be rewarded and so far these are the only photos I've seen of the worlds best climber climbing at my favorite crag   

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#79 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:21:46 pm
an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people.

A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.

chris_j_s

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#80 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:27:15 pm
A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.

Not what I said but well done!  ;)

Paul B

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#81 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:35:42 pm
and we're b
No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Back to the celebrity culture thing, all you've got to 'add value' is Ondra climbing something that on the grand scheme of things isn't that impressive... My mate happened to record Malc doing the first ascent of Monk life by shear luck, he missed the 1st move and its far from top-drawer footage but he captured a moment, this isn't that.

I've got half a pasty that John Dunne may or may not have munched on, shall we start the bidding at £50,000?

(alternatively I can supply a lock of Jaspersharpes hair for a similar price - he doesn't yet know it)

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#82 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:38:56 pm
As if Dunny would leave half a pasty uneaten

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#83 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 09:42:46 pm
Beat me to it!!

Serpico

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#84 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 10:09:04 pm
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.

RichK

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#85 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 10:12:08 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Details.......

3 x RP's on Overshadow ...... his thoughts, defo 9a+. Thinks he's using a differnt sequence on crux to Steve.

Predator, 8b O/S - However, he thought the end of the route was the 1st belay(its 20ft higher). 
                            He looked very comfortable & I doubt he'd have fallen off the last bit.                                                                               
                            Gutted to hear he had a further 20ft. Putting clips in.
Oak, 8b O/S         - putting clips in.

Magnetic,8b O/S   - putting clips in

Groove>Free and Easy>Breach of the Peace 8b O/S - putting clips in.

Energy Vampire 8a+ O/S - putting clips in. Looked puzzled at last move for a while.......and fell off. Isn't it like RD's in           
that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.

Notably, he did Magnetic, had 5 mins rest, then the Oak :o

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
   

Adam Lincoln

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#86 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 10:47:42 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Isn't it like RD's in that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

No, you need to clip it, like you do on Connect 4. (Same finish)

r-man

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#87 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 29, 2010, 11:21:33 pm


Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.


Perfect, someone pass me Ondra's diary...

Fri - Rest
Sat - Do Overshadow
Sun - Rest
Mon - Violent New Breed

duncan

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#89 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 09:14:56 am
I agree with PaulB (although he's not getting anywhere near me with a pair of scissors).

Good to hear confirmation of Steve's grades, not as if they were in doubt like but still.

SA Chris

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#90 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 09:50:16 am
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.

Nothing to fear here then


Probes

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#91 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 10:13:56 am
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.

With the destruction thats going on at Malham, Im not sure I fancy seeing him do the same to Longy anymore.  :boohoo:

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#92 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 10:16:32 am
What a beast! Seems like he s taken to malham like a duck to water. I hope he comes to the ormes sometime.

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#93 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 10:37:04 am
You would have thought he'd want to get on LA and Big Bang and I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............

Adam Lincoln

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#94 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 10:39:58 am
I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............

  :lol:

Doylo

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#95 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 10:59:27 am
He d have a cracking time down there. He can have that proj. All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.

SA Chris

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#96 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 11:31:33 am
Any signed pic? I have a Su Pollard one you can have.

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#97 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 11:34:47 am
Details.......
Cheers Rich - major crushage as expected  ;D

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#98 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 11:35:11 am
All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.
Wouldn't you put it on the ceiling so when you wake up you see ur hero :great:

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#99 Re: Ondra at Malham
April 30, 2010, 02:03:44 pm
I know everyone is having some kind of visiting-wad-so-let's-shout-all-the-hard-routes-he-should-do-gasm.
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?
I know nothing about the route or if it would suit Adam, but surely visiting uber wad's should be directed at this infamous project.

 

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