UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 856521 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2400 Re: Ondrawad
March 21, 2023, 08:34:44 pm

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.

If you need to stand on a sling to get up it, it doesn't sound much like a bog-standard middle-of-the-grade 6c to me.

I've done it since, it's fine at 6c when you get used to the style

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2401 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 03:44:51 pm
From Ondra's Instagram, by his own reckoning he's done ;

More than 200 9as and harder

Onsighted 91 8cs and harder

Done 1730 routes harder than 8a

Numbers like that really do show don't they, at his own game there really is nobody at the same level

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3389
  • Karma: +522/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#2402 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 04:06:47 pm
In the comments of Ondra’s post a few people are saying that he still has to catch up with Dani Andrada’s numbers. I don’t follow top climbers in any detail and I’ve never really taken Andrada seriously because he looks like Keith Richards so can anyone shed any light on what his “numbers” are like?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2403 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 04:28:27 pm
In the comments of Ondra’s post a few people are saying that he still has to catch up with Dani Andrada’s numbers. I don’t follow top climbers in any detail and I’ve never really taken Andrada seriously because he looks like Keith Richards so can anyone shed any light on what his “numbers” are like?

I'm not sure if Dani Andrada keeps a public logbook, but my impression is that he's spent the last 30 years equipping new routes in Spain, becoming a total stamina wad and onsighting everything < 8b. Given he's got 20 years on Ondra I could imagine he's climbed more 8s.

HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#2404 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 05:11:44 pm
Don't underestimate Andrada. He is the original máquina. Some 5 years ago he had climbed 4000+ routes of 8a and harder. And was the 3rd to propose 9b for a route (after Rouhling and Fernandez). And he's still going strong. The Android and the Ondroid. Both have mind-boggling dedication to their game. Hats off to them.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2023, 05:16:51 pm by HaeMeS »

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
#2405 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 08:13:59 pm
4000 grade 8 ? That's quite something. If I'd had to guess how many grade 8s there are in Europe I probably would've guessed less than 4000

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1576
  • Karma: +144/-1
#2406 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 09:33:06 pm
I thought Andrada had done 1000 in the 1990s?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#2407 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 10:15:18 pm
I heard he had the strength of a hundred men, each of whom had the strength of hundred men.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2408 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 10:56:21 pm
Yeah I heard that too

edshakey

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#2409 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2023, 11:18:56 pm
I heard it from a hundred men, each of whom heard it from a hundred men

blaciqui

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 14
  • Karma: +6/-0
#2410 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 11:20:54 am
(apologies to all non-spanish speakers) 2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

Andrada is the man. Not the strongest but probably the type of climber that should be copied the most, I really love his way to approach climbing away from modern day BS.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#2411 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 11:37:45 am
Great info, thanks / Gracias.

andy moles

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 588
  • Karma: +50/-1
#2412 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 12:22:52 pm
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

That is just ridiculous. That's equivalent to doing an 8th grade route every day for 13 years!

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#2413 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 12:52:30 pm
I think Ste told me Andrada was aiming to get to 6k this year? Or maybe it was 5k?

The other crazy thing is that so many of these routes are his - he's not just done thousands but has bolted and cleaned thousands too!

Tony S

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 147
  • Karma: +7/-8
#2414 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 12:55:04 pm
I really love his way to approach climbing away from modern day BS.

Amen to that!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#2415 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 01:13:04 pm
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

That is just ridiculous. That's equivalent to doing an 8th grade route every day for 13 years!

Along with his acting career as the original MacGyver ;)

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2815
  • Karma: +159/-4
#2416 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 03:47:45 pm
Love Andrada.

Quote
from some other thread

When I was in Rodellar Andrada was cleaning and bolting a new route in the Piscineta. It had fixed ropes on. Dani was using a grigri and ascender to jug up the ropes but everytime he bounced up he would snap his head back violently. It took us a while to work out that he was pulling the slack through the grigri with his teeth! That and the fact the fixed ropes were rubbing in about 20 places without a rope protector in sight made us question his sanity  :o

The route i was trying was adjacent to his new route and after i fell off I dogged to the top. I was halfway through lowering off when it dawned on me that the big ramp I was going to alight onto was also where the massive chunks of rock that Dani was levering off with a hammer were exploding. After frantically getting Al to stop lowering me we both shouted at Dani trying to get his attention. He was completely engrossed in the cleaning work and deaf to the world. Eventually he looked up. The conversation went something like this:
Dani!
Que?
...la roca...uno momento?
Ah...perdon, eh?

As soon as i was clear the rocks started coming down again!

blaciqui

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 14
  • Karma: +6/-0
#2417 Re: Ondrawad
July 12, 2023, 04:14:34 pm
I think Ste told me Andrada was aiming to get to 6k this year? Or maybe it was 5k?

The other crazy thing is that so many of these routes are his - he's not just done thousands but has bolted and cleaned thousands too!

(perdon de nuevo :whistle:)

Here is a video of him bolting a multipitch in Cantabria showing the kind of effort he puts - It may seem like I'm a cheerleader for Dani, but I believe these videos might be lesser-known among English speakers. They're truly authentic and demonstrate what motivation looks like.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2418 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 03:53:43 pm
Nice vid out on his yt channel of his ascent of Vasil Vasil. It must surely be one of the 9b+ that is least likely to ever be repeated.


Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#2419 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 04:36:46 pm
2:20 is well Peak District. In fact I guess it's like a 9b+ more aesthetic Hubble for style. Looks.....HARD.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2420 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 05:04:27 pm
I knew it was short, but I did not know that it was that short! 9A boulder to a 6a+ free solo?

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2421 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 06:19:45 pm
As always, fucking love Ondra man what a guy

sirlockoff

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • god's own rock
  • Posts: 67
  • Karma: +5/-0
  • @sirlockoff
    • Peak district bouldering sends
#2422 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 06:52:58 pm
I knew it was short, but I did not know that it was that short! 9A boulder to a 6a+ free solo?

he seemed to quote it more as 8b+ short sport to 8B single move boulder,

I wonder if his current self would consider a kneebar around 10:06 where his left hand is in the undercutish looking thing, and downgrade it grade or 2 :popcorn:, not sure if at that age he ever used kneepads?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2423 Re: Ondrawad
July 24, 2023, 10:29:53 pm
so just 9b then? :D

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2424 Re: Ondrawad
September 29, 2023, 02:55:59 pm
Another day another 9b FA. B je to! is the first 9b in Croatia.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxszjyM2GP/?img_index=1

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal