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Ondrawad (Read 856493 times)

MischaHY

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#2200 Re: Ondrawad
December 27, 2021, 07:10:30 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I immediately thought about your predictions when I saw his post!  :lol: Sounds like these are all actually just warm ups for the main events on the 'upper tier'?!?

duncan

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#2201 Re: Ondrawad
December 27, 2021, 08:33:17 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

Thank goodness for that. I thought I’d stumbled into OK! magazine for a moment.

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#2202 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 09:56:42 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

Thank goodness for that. I thought I’d stumbled into OK! magazine for a moment.
Very good  :lol: From both you and Andy...

Route looks pretty cool for Raven Tor too.

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#2203 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 11:11:44 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I like that he confirmed our consensus rule-of-thumb that a boulder problem to a piss-easy top out should be graded one-and-a half grade harder than the boulder problem as a route. 7B+ boulder > hiking = 8a route, 8C+ boulder > hiking = 9b route, etc.

(And for the children of athletes, they revert to the mean ability unless you fix desirable genetic traits [what even are the genetic traits determining climbing ability?] through linebreeding. Even so, success is not guaranteed)

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#2204 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 11:58:55 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I like that he confirmed our consensus rule-of-thumb that a boulder problem to a piss-easy top out should be graded one-and-a half grade harder than the boulder problem as a route. 7B+ boulder > hiking = 8a route, 8C+ boulder > hiking = 9b route, etc.

(And for the children of athletes, they revert to the mean ability unless you fix desirable genetic traits [what even are the genetic traits determining climbing ability?] through linebreeding. Even so, success is not guaranteed)

Silence is harder than Burden of Dreams? I'm not doubting that, I'm just curious as this is what the grade conversion rule of thumb implies. BoD into an 8b would get a mere 9b+!

From my armchair I do speculate that sport climbing has a higher ceiling than bouldering, at least if we're talking about pure boulders with <10 moves.

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#2205 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 12:18:59 pm
I think he means the equation stands where it's a hard boulder problem into an easy route finish, whereas Silence has an 8C boulder, followed by an 8B boulder, then a 7C+ boulder. And you've already done an 8b route to get there.

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#2206 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 01:14:39 pm
There's some classic comments on 8a.nu - people saying Ondra's grading is wrong, Ondra himself explaining his grade maths,  and people still not having it.

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#2207 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 01:51:33 pm
There are idiots on 8a? Well I never!

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#2208 Re: Ondrawad
December 28, 2021, 01:52:32 pm
There are idiots on 8a? Well I never!
:o

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#2209 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 06:16:49 pm
In between swatting critics on 8a.nu looks like he nipped in for a quick repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lonely Mountain, suggesting hard 9b. Psyched that we're back to the good old days of Ondra demolishing the hardest routes in the world in record time.

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#2210 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 06:40:56 pm
I know right, is that now two 9bs and a 9a+ in a couple of weeks?

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#2211 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 06:49:52 pm
26th October, Molekuly 9a+ FA
9th Nov, Erebor 9b
18th Dec, Kout Pikle 9a+ FA
23rd December, Taurus 9b FA
28th December, Lonely Mountain 9b

Looks like he's picking up pace. Won't be long until we're on 9b a day.

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#2212 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 06:57:45 pm
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.

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#2213 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 07:02:31 pm
In between swatting critics on 8a.nu looks like he nipped in for a quick repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lonely Mountain, suggesting hard 9b. Psyched that we're back to the good old days of Ondra demolishing the hardest routes in the world in record time.

Absolutely, have missed this while he's been messing around with speed climbing and parkour bouldering

Andy F

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#2214 Re: Ondrawad
December 29, 2021, 10:34:30 pm
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.
Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood

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#2215 Re: Ondrawad
December 30, 2021, 08:17:30 am
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.
Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood

Pushed it down in my case  :wall: :lol:

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#2216 Re: Ondrawad
December 30, 2021, 09:13:01 am
Me too

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#2217 Re: Ondrawad
December 31, 2021, 04:19:40 am
Worth it for the comedic value at the belay:
 

remus

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#2218 Re: Ondrawad
January 11, 2022, 07:21:24 am
Fun little vid of Ondra onsighting a dusty old school 8b with no chalk on it https://www.facebook.com/100044208710458/posts/494822495334703/?app=fbl

Sounds like trying to onsight anything in the peak!

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#2219 Re: Ondrawad
January 11, 2022, 10:49:32 am
Except the alloy crab on the one bolt lower off is not full seized.

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#2220 Re: Ondrawad
January 11, 2022, 01:55:05 pm
Enjoying AOA films of recents months. Certainly post Olympics and & since that docu series of Perfecto Mundo, there’s been a more chilled and at times more personable touch to them.
Still the GOAT of climbing.

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#2221 Re: Ondrawad
January 11, 2022, 02:07:48 pm
Worth it for the comedic value at the belay:
 


 :lol: I liked that. Stop Ondra from sending your projects by using old screwgates at the anchor...

Adam Lincoln

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#2222 Re: Ondrawad
January 12, 2022, 10:24:04 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.

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#2223 Re: Ondrawad
January 12, 2022, 10:44:29 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.

Which ascent are we calling bull shit on?

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#2224 Re: Ondrawad
January 12, 2022, 10:53:02 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.

Which ascent are we calling bull shit on?

Am i missing someone. Bosi and Megos?

 

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