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Ondrawad (Read 474604 times)

Wood FT

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#2000 Re: Ondrawad
December 24, 2018, 09:47:34 am

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.



I’m the fucking best

Duncan campbell

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#2001 Re: Ondrawad
December 24, 2018, 10:58:00 am
Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!

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#2002 Re: Ondrawad
December 24, 2018, 11:19:39 am
Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!

Au contraire, I think it is totally normal. I would not expect anyone to be able to onsight conservatively just one half grade under their max o/s level, and just one number below their absolute rp max. E.g. I would expect a well rounded climber who barely onsight 8a, and having redpointed a single 8b+/c to cruise juggy stamina 7cs with enormous margin, but on 7c+s with some hard moves thrown in success would be far from assured.

remus

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#2003 Re: Ondrawad
January 07, 2019, 05:55:35 pm
Watch the man himself struggle on an 8a like the rest of us.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/video-adam-ondra-belly-full-of-bad-berries-offwidth

petejh

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#2004 Re: Ondrawad
January 07, 2019, 09:30:52 pm
Brilliant to see Ondra fighting on a hideous offwidth, refreshing.

I remember when I lived in Canada sometime around 2006 or 07 hearing that Dingdong onsighted or flashed this, anyone know?

ferret

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#2005 Re: Ondrawad
January 07, 2019, 10:57:56 pm
Thinking of Pete Whitaker perhaps? I thought his was the first flat/onsite

petejh

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#2006 Re: Ondrawad
January 08, 2019, 09:30:13 am
No it was way before then, would have been '06 or 07. Just remember one of my Canadian housemates had heard about it and was amazed at this unknown brit wad haha.

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#2007 Re: Ondrawad
February 25, 2019, 10:59:55 pm

Good video explainer for the Olympics format including scoring. There’s going to be a new training vid each week.

remus

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#2008 Re: Ondrawad
February 28, 2019, 08:01:34 am


9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.

Wood FT

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#2009 Re: Ondrawad
February 28, 2019, 06:36:21 pm
Cool, the project looks very good indeed.

UnkArl

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#2010 Re: Ondrawad
February 28, 2019, 06:37:51 pm
Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!

andy popp

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#2011 Re: Ondrawad
February 28, 2019, 08:44:55 pm
Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!

There's little more satisfying than the sight of a wad having a wobbler.

bigironhorse

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#2012 Re: Ondrawad
February 28, 2019, 09:36:16 pm
Gonna get me some Ondra patented deep water speedos!

Nibile

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#2013 Re: Ondrawad
March 03, 2019, 10:21:47 am
I would like to know how much he bulked up over the last years. Massive arms, shoulders and even legs.
It didn't do him much harm, did it.

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#2014 Re: Ondrawad
March 03, 2019, 10:56:55 am


9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.

That film surely breaks records for the number of shots where there’s another cameraman or photographer in the frame- it’s like a climbing film and “making of” documentary combined.

I enjoyed it though. Great to see climbing in countries where you think “can you climb there? Is there even rock there?” (the answers usually seem to be “yes” and “more limestone than you could ever imagine”) as well as Ondra trying hard and being a beast. His bunny-hop method of climbing tufas makes it look so easy!

James Malloch

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#2015 Re: Ondrawad
March 04, 2019, 10:58:04 pm


What climbing is all about...

jwi

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#2016 Re: Ondrawad
March 05, 2019, 12:22:05 pm
Interesting that he thinks no one on the world cup can beat Martin Stráník

teestub

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#2017 Re: Ondrawad
March 05, 2019, 12:44:26 pm
Yeah, I would have thought Jan might be in with a shout? He did a good job of getting his own excuses in early on in the video too!

andy popp

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#2018 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 02:37:08 pm

galpinos

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#2019 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 03:44:38 pm

I enjoyed watching Stefan Fürst belay him on Qui. What does Stefan Fürst do now? Still climbing?

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#2020 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 03:58:25 pm
Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.

galpinos

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#2021 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 05:42:47 pm
Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.

Cheers. His hat game is strong too.

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#2022 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 09:23:24 pm
Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!

Nibile

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#2023 Re: Ondrawad
October 01, 2019, 10:40:53 pm
The bar is set a bit high now, mind...

SA Chris

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#2024 Re: Ondrawad
October 02, 2019, 09:24:22 am
Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!

His ticklist there should fill a morning for you then..