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Ondrawad (Read 857059 times)

teapot

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#1850 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 11:19:51 am
as well as 'second go flashing' a 9a+, which he downgraded to 9a.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlEDlC_hYcU/?taken-by=adam.ondra

How can a flash be 2nd go?

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#1851 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 11:57:49 am
I think the "flashed" in quotes is pretty clear - not really a flash, but fell off at 4th bolt (on  45m 9a+) lower back down and then did the route clean with out having been on the rest of the route (assume .  Not a bad effort(!!) - just retaining the psyche to try to do it after failure low down is pretty impressive.


teapot

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#1852 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 01:48:38 pm
Yep I gathered that is what happened, but I have not heard of anyone using the term "flash" in that context.

Massively impressive as always, and I recognise that he is Adam Ondra, so he can call it whatever he wants.


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#1853 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 02:33:08 pm
I think the "flashed" in quotes is pretty clear - not really a flash, but fell off at 4th bolt (on  45m 9a+) lower back down and then did the route clean with out having been on the rest of the route (assume .  Not a bad effort(!!) - just retaining the psyche to try to do it after failure low down is pretty impressive.

So, err, 'ground up' then. Assume this is the first 9a+ climbed ground up so not shit.

Would be (mildly) interesting to know if the crux is at the 4th bolt or not.

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#1854 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 02:41:05 pm
Quote from: Ondrawad
Honour and Glory. Amazing 45m line up in Collosseum, scenic crag high above the town of Canmore was one of the reasons why I went to Canada. One of the few 9a+ (5.15a) that looked flashable and I still had not tried it.
Put up by @hauonearth last year, really tremendous effort to open and clean this line into this gem.
Yesterday was a special day. @hauonearth and @miles_adamson was there to share the beta with me (thank you so much!), @bigupclimbing @bernartwood and @sonnietrotter were there to film this for @reelrock . I felt ready. I set off and I felt awesome, just flowing up the route. Yet very soon, at 4th bolt it was all over. I did not want to waste my energy drying up my hand after touching a wet hold, as a good hold was getting closer, and this hand slipped. I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go.
As for the grade though, my opinion is that it fits more into 9a (5.14d) range.

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#1855 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 02:53:31 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

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#1856 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 02:59:35 pm
Bit of info on here...

"about a 15-metre 5.14d to a mediocre rest followed by 30 metres of pumpy 5.14b climbing" includes "the first v10 crux right off the deck" - this v10 looks to be before the 4th bolt.

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#1857 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 04:12:55 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:

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#1858 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 04:19:30 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:

 :P nah will never happen. He thought Overshadow was hard 9a+.

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#1859 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 04:25:01 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:

 :P nah will never happen. He thought Overshadow was hard 9a+.

He's been on Rainman and suggested he thought it was 9b. i think we're safe.

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#1860 Re: Ondrawad
July 11, 2018, 04:26:11 pm
He might come here and DG Big Bang one day though. Liquid Ambar is blatantly harder after all (u reading Caff?).

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remus

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#1862 Re: Ondrawad
July 19, 2018, 11:52:11 pm
Non fb link

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#1863 Re: Ondrawad
July 20, 2018, 09:09:06 am
Also, failing on a 7a  :o

Great skincare tips! I’ll have to remember to pack hand cream, plastic bags and fancy soap next time I go to the Tor.

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#1864 Re: Ondrawad
July 20, 2018, 11:16:43 am
Is the megos 9b in this area?

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#1865 Re: Ondrawad
July 20, 2018, 01:26:37 pm
Hes been trying the Megos 9b and failing and hes failing on his 9b project. Only a few days left.

Already seen him mentioning wet bits and snapped holds on it so hes getting his excuses in early. Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.

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#1866 Re: Ondrawad
July 20, 2018, 01:42:44 pm
Hes been trying the Megos 9b and failing

Megos must be on cloud 9 right now.

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#1867 Re: Ondrawad
July 20, 2018, 02:27:37 pm
Awww quite poignant watching that (amazing production quality - does Ondra also have the world's best film-maker in support?). Lived in Canmore for 4 years and it's the driest air I've ever experienced. The Coliseum is an amazing place - remember when it first started to get developed by Ross Suchy and others. Like most of the better Canmore crags though it involves a Ceuse on steroids approach.

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#1868 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 06:21:08 pm

Doylo

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#1869 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 07:08:02 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.

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#1870 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 08:11:29 pm
Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.

Normal service is resumed.

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#1871 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 09:20:55 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.

Megos has probably put him off anyway with the talk of climbing on sea creatures!

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#1872 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 09:23:40 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.

Megos has probably put him off anyway with the talk of climbing on sea creatures!

He was just a bit upset cos he fell off Statement.  :P Poor little soul.

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#1873 Re: Ondrawad
July 21, 2018, 09:27:54 pm
Awww poor lad!
Ondra: Statement to warm up, LA second warm up, Big Bang 3rd go  ;D

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#1874 Re: Ondrawad
July 22, 2018, 05:42:25 am
Awww poor lad!
Ondra: Statement to warm up, LA second warm up, Big Bang 3rd go  ;D

LA flash attempt is what I’d like to see.

 

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