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Ondrawad (Read 573962 times)

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#175 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 05:25:14 pm
I'm always amused that people still think that all the Gaskins stuff is on shit rock.  It's just not true.  :lol:

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#176 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 05:29:19 pm
That's true, he has done a few things on rock types other than limestone :)

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#177 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 06:04:15 pm
No but they are generally fucking ugly lowball grovels. Walk Away SS, Isla De Enchanta and VNB look pretty nice. Anything else looks flange, just very hard flange. Okay apart from Pillbox thingy but that's only because it's miles from his home turf and he was probably struggling to find some real dank ugly limestone holes. He must have not looked up left just after driving along the toll road  :lol:

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#178 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 06:44:17 pm
If conditions and time, I'm pretty sure he likes to "eat" every kind of rock, short too ;-)

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#179 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 07:36:35 pm
Having seen the man himself today, I won't have this nonsense.   :furious:

Fiend, apologise immediately or I'll send round At Work to bite your ankles.   :spank:




But what else did Ondra get done?

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#180 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 08:24:51 pm
Wasn't there myself but a text at the crag said he redpointed Northern Lights today.  If true 2 of the 4 hardest routes in Yorkshire ticked in 3 days  :jaw:

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#181 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 09:13:49 pm
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Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.

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#182 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 09:19:36 pm
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Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.

Could've been worse, if he hadn't had to go back to Kilnsey today to finish Northern Lights his plan was to go to the Tor to try Hubble and Mutation.

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#183 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 10:38:54 pm

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#184 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 03, 2010, 11:42:36 pm
Its great that hes managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!

Hmmm, last time I checked, everytime Johnny foreigner gets out on the grit they put us all to shame crushing yesterdays testpieces. Lets face it, if you can climb 9a+ then a scary 7b arete or an 8a+ with some wires isnt gonna cause too many problems....

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#185 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 08:32:51 am
Its hardly everytime... you just don't get to hear about all the EPIC FAILS.

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#186 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 09:15:57 am
Let's not go down that route anyway.

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#187 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 09:50:03 am
Every year foreigners come and eat up the grit. It has been great to hear about some of the proper hard climbing in britain getting some attention. I m amazed that he got those north buttress routes so quickly.mainly because they must have been filthy.northern lights in particular has seen hardly any attention since steve did it.i would have thought it would of taken two days to clean it never mind climb it.also it is a slightly meandering line and with no chalk on it he was starting from scratch. Its pretty significant getting a bit of dirt on your shoe on a 9a.what an absolute fucking beast. Hopefully he ll come back for the tor/LPT.

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#188 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 10:04:55 am
Let's not go down that route overgraded and overhyped highball anyway.
:whistle:

Only natural to encourage Johnny Foreigner onto Johnny Grit tho, it is rather good.

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#189 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 10:34:53 am
Shame few of them ever experience Torridon Sandstone.

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#190 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 03:29:17 pm
To put everyone out of their misery, yesterday he finished off Northern Lights which he thought was very good, onsighted Full Tilt, carried on but dropped the onsight of True North right at the very top just below the Urgent Action rail, onsighted Ecstacy and onsighted Mandela. It was freezing yesterday at Kilnsey, even colder than on Saturday with strong winds whistling down the valley. I couldn't stay warm between climbs.

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#191 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 03:55:13 pm
I was geeky enough to check out Ondra's very up-to-date 8a.nu scorecard.

By Overnite Sensation he noted: 'Must come back for Overshadow. It is pretty stiff 9a+ indeed. Possibly 9b? I have no clue, it is very specific move.' Good to hear, props to Ste Mac!

He's added Northern Lights to his list of 10 recommended ascents and rated it as 'a great power endurance testpiece'.

Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.

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#192 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 04:51:29 pm
Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.

I've heard that before from Kristian.

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#193 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 05:10:52 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!

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#194 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 05:15:41 pm
Ecstasy was clean, he said Mandela wasn't too bad even though it wasn't cleaned prior to him doing it.

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#195 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 05:41:36 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!

Dan did ecstacy on the saturday so it was presumably cleaned recently prior to ondra's onsight.

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#196 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 05:49:42 pm
It's pretty staggering the way he knocks off 9a as if it's nothing. When you think that the project that became North Star defeated the best in this country for years and he casually ticked it in four goes.
 :bow:

As people have said, we already knew what he was capable of but it really brings it home when it's at crags (and on routes) that we all know.

Great to see that he thinks Overshadow is possibly 9b and also that he's obviously been impressed with the quality of the routes in general.

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#197 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 05:57:32 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

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#198 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 07:51:55 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

So there's only 3 people can hang those holds. Who are they  ;)

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#199 Re: Ondra at Malham
May 04, 2010, 09:00:38 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

didn't keith transfer from the tiny mono's to the 45's with nonchalant ease at Maisonbleau?

 

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