I'm not generally a fan of the "Thought for the day" BBC R4 item -but I liked it today. It was about someone bringing professionalisation to quizzing https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0hpk11m
Like many I’m intrigued by the ‘non news’ or the lack of news of a ‘significant ascent’. However aside from the news or non news aspects, what interests me is how Aiden (and others) are grappling with how their bouldering ‘experiences)’ are represented.
Like many I’m intrigued by the ‘non news’ or the lack of news of a ‘significant ascent’. However aside from the news or non news aspects, what interests me is how Aiden (and others) are grappling with how their bouldering ‘experiences)’ are represented. I wrote an article for UKC a few months ago….”Today’s Climbing Media Output Rarely Conveys Depth of Experience” and a PhD ‘THE PROBLEM OF REPRESENTING THE ‘BOULDERING' EXPERIENCE AS IT EXCEEDS CONVENTIONAL FORMS OF REPRESENTATION.https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/todays_climbing_media_output_rarely_conveys_depth_of_experience-15372https://independent.academia.edu/AndyWhall?utm_content=link1&utm_campaign=articles_id_15372&utm_medium=articles_post&utm_source=ukclimbing
In answer to your ding, Tony, which was a bit of a weird way to post a reply but anyway, the article to me constructs an artificial tension between indoor and outdoor climbing, and the experience of climbing and the media depiction of it, and then attempts to transform this into a philosophically rigorous criticism of people posting videos of comp problems on Instagram, whereas it is in fact a reactionary dislike to the perceived aesthetics of modern climbing media
Quote from: stone on April 09, 2024, 09:50:51 amI'm not generally a fan of the "Thought for the day" BBC R4 item -but I liked it today. It was about someone bringing professionalisation to quizzing https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0hpk11mI don't think that link is live yet, it's also at 1:47:40 at https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m001y26fI don't think it's about professionalism in quizzing at all - that's just the parable; to my mind it's about the difference between knowledge/data and wisdom. Anyway...Climbing is at the amateurism stage; sponsorship and patreon accounts are not professionalism. My intuition is that these things ("on average") likely benefit Trustafarians more than equal meritorious individuals from socially deprived backgrounds. (NB: This is a general point and not directed to any specific case.)
Quote from: Tony on April 09, 2024, 10:39:11 amQuote from: stone on April 09, 2024, 09:50:51 amI'm not generally a fan of the "Thought for the day" BBC R4 item -but I liked it today. It was about someone bringing professionalisation to quizzing https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0hpk11mI don't think that link is live yet, it's also at 1:47:40 at https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m001y26fI don't think it's about professionalism in quizzing at all - that's just the parable; to my mind it's about the difference between knowledge/data and wisdom. Anyway...Climbing is at the amateurism stage; sponsorship and patreon accounts are not professionalism. My intuition is that these things ("on average") likely benefit Trustafarians more than equal meritorious individuals from socially deprived backgrounds. (NB: This is a general point and not directed to any specific case.)I am pretty sure that there is exactly one professional sport climber in France. My definition of professional is someone who earns a living wage from climbing. There are many professional mountain guides, of course, but as for sport climbing, only Mr. Bouin can do that for a living; and he does spend some time on media production as well. Ms Chanourdi has joined the army, Mr Mawem runs a gym, and the other competitors are mostly "students"
... but this is UKB so I’m sure it will no doubt descend into 15 page debate about whether paying towards two climbers making an interesting podcast every week is ethical or something
Quote from: jwi on April 09, 2024, 01:56:01 pmQuote from: Tony on April 09, 2024, 10:39:11 amQuote from: stone on April 09, 2024, 09:50:51 amI'm not generally a fan of the "Thought for the day" BBC R4 item -but I liked it today. It was about someone bringing professionalisation to quizzing https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0hpk11mI don't think that link is live yet, it's also at 1:47:40 at https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m001y26fI don't think it's about professionalism in quizzing at all - that's just the parable; to my mind it's about the difference between knowledge/data and wisdom. Anyway...Climbing is at the amateurism stage; sponsorship and patreon accounts are not professionalism. My intuition is that these things ("on average") likely benefit Trustafarians more than equal meritorious individuals from socially deprived backgrounds. (NB: This is a general point and not directed to any specific case.)I am pretty sure that there is exactly one professional sport climber in France. My definition of professional is someone who earns a living wage from climbing. There are many professional mountain guides, of course, but as for sport climbing, only Mr. Bouin can do that for a living; and he does spend some time on media production as well. Ms Chanourdi has joined the army, Mr Mawem runs a gym, and the other competitors are mostly "students"Looking forward one day to some transparency on actual revenue earned by "professional climbers" but not holding my breath. Here in Boulder, a city with one of the highest costs of living in the US, there are many "professional climbers" enjoying a standard of living well in excess of any income they could likely ever garner from climbing. Very occasionally someone is outed as a trustfunder but otherwise the code of silence is maintained. Vulgar of me to ask, I know, but most actual professionals, especially in real professional sports such as football etc, are very forthcoming about their income. Meanwhile in climbing, or so I have heard, sponsored climbers are specifically forbidden to discuss their compensation.
Nicolas Moineau, a blind climber from Cahors, has repeated Los tacos de los dos rigolos, 8a, in Saint-Géry. Wild. I found this route pretty solid for 8a, and quite complex. Lots of tiny feet in the first part and some big committing moves on top.https://fanatic-climbing.com/nicolas-moineau-non-voyant-arrive-dans-le-8eme-degre-nicolas-moineau-sightless-opens-his-8th-degree-counter/
Ahem! (Old news, weirdly picked up by eight a point nü now)Quote from: jwi on October 17, 2023, 08:15:58 amNicolas Moineau, a blind climber from Cahors, has repeated Los tacos de los dos rigolos, 8a, in Saint-Géry. Wild. I found this route pretty solid for 8a, and quite complex. Lots of tiny feet in the first part and some big committing moves on top.https://fanatic-climbing.com/nicolas-moineau-non-voyant-arrive-dans-le-8eme-degre-nicolas-moineau-sightless-opens-his-8th-degree-counter/
Quote from: jwi on April 10, 2024, 10:03:15 amAhem! (Old news, weirdly picked up by eight a point nü now)Quote from: jwi on October 17, 2023, 08:15:58 amNicolas Moineau, a blind climber from Cahors, has repeated Los tacos de los dos rigolos, 8a, in Saint-Géry. Wild. I found this route pretty solid for 8a, and quite complex. Lots of tiny feet in the first part and some big committing moves on top.https://fanatic-climbing.com/nicolas-moineau-non-voyant-arrive-dans-le-8eme-degre-nicolas-moineau-sightless-opens-his-8th-degree-counter/Ah yes, missed that. What a brilliant achievement!
How many 9a and upwards has she down now?