[Nigel]

This thread has just got stratospherically exciting! I'm foaming at the mouth, can't wait. Chris, cheers for the vid and link to pics, that Flickr gallery is very inspiring, although it raises more questions than it answers! Where is Ullapool River Gorge? Is Ardmair beach any good? Is Reiff In The Woods as good as it looks? How amazing is Burning Desire?! Etc. I could go on.

Adam, beautiful picture as always.

[Nigel]

P.S. What grade we talking about for Flawless?

[SA Chris]

You will need to pick the local's brains, but..

Ullapool River Gorge - No Idea, would love to know.

Ardmair Beach is quite small, but some great roofy probs. Stunning spot, but sheltered and v midgy - best in late afternoon / evening when sun gets on it. As I said before, the beach has the best skimming stones ever. It's no distance from the road and a nice spot t chill out. V close to Armari Crag as well.

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ardmair_Beach

Reiff in the Woods - had a look, but not spent much time there - usually on way to Reiff proper. Looks ace, but quite sheltered so can be midgy. Stac Pollaidh is right opposite.

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Reiff_in_the_Woods

Burning Desire looks superb, but a bit rich for my blood so can't really comment.

[richieb]

Nige,

Reiff in the Woods is top, despite being in the woods it catches plenty of breeze which is good news in June.. You can get a bouldering guide from northwest outdoors in Ullapool.  Includes RITW, Ardmair and several other spots. A decent plan is to have a day at Reiff itself and then call in at RITW in the evening when it gets the sun.

Flawless - was given e7 6c I think by Jules. If you climb the wrong side of the arete like I did on my headpoint probably more like e6 6b.
When we went up there to find it I had no description other than its a stunning arete on a sea cliff somewhere near Achmelvich and that you switch from one side of the arete to the other at some point.
Took about 2 hours to find the crag, even though its 10 mins from the campsite.  Its all pretty obvious up to the gear just above half height, then I swung round onto the lefthand side (steeper but with more holds). I found out afterwards that Jules had climbed the slabbier but much more insecure righthand side (should have known really!). 
Either way the gear is at the same height and the route is brilliant. 

Theres an e3/4 groove to the left of Flawless and an e1 further left again and that's about it as far as I know. The crag is mentioned in the SMC northern highlands north guide and called 'Clean Cut' but the approach description is wrong. Feel free to PM me if you want anymore info.

Burning Desire is quality. As is everything else at Ardmair. Ian T has just written a new routes update for the area which has about 40 or so extra routes at Ardmair, some of which are awesome, again available in the outdoor shop in Ullapool. 

[SA Chris]

So do we get any feedback?

[Nigel]

Yes, you do! I will try and keep things somewhat climbing oriented as I know people aren’t going to be interested in a blow by blow account of someone else’s holiday. Must say we didn’t get much climbing done, although we did have a great time.

We spent four days on Barra, arriving Sunday evening 6th June. The weather was perfect the whole time. We cycled around the island, did a bit of walking, and took a boat trip to Mingulay. This was definitely the highlight and comes highly recommended (see Recent Wildlife Sightings thread). The cliffs on Mingulay and Pabbay looked fantastic. There were climbers on Pabbay but not Mingulay. I also went for a look at the crags on Barra after JB texted me on day 2 to say a topo had just gone up on UKC. I have to say these looked fantastic too (similar to Pabbay & Mingulay, unsurprisingly), quite extensive and seemingly lots of room for new routes. For the boulderers there is a steep wall on the way to the crags (15 mins from the parking at Vatersay causeway) which looks like it would have a fair bit on. I have pictures of both which I will attempt to get up here. Sadly we didn’t climb anything as I had a crock shoulder.

I would say that you could have a great trip just to Barra itself, the climbing looked good enough and it is a wonderful place to be. Presumably the advantage over the other islands is that you can spend wet days in some degree of comfort/civilisation. Also, given that during our boat trip we had 2 hours ashore on Mingulay, I see no reason why you couldn’t have a word with the boat chap if you had a run of weather and maybe nip over to Mingulay for a few days in high season, he seemed to be doing the trip nearly every day, no doubt he could drop you off one trip and pick you up on another a few days later. Worth considering.

One tip would be to buy some fresh fish from the Barratlantic fish van which tours the island. Super fresh and incredibly cheap (we got 2 massive fillets each of Ling and Hake for £3.50, we were eating it all day. Gorgeous).

Thursday 10th weather crapped out and we headed North through Uists. We had been tipped off by several people that these were pretty grim places relative to Barra and Lewis/Harris. I agree. Basically just drove through with a stop at Balranald nature reserve.

Friday 11th got to Harris, was going to walk in to look at Strone Ulladale but the weather was apocalyptic. Next day was fine weather and we went to Painted Geo on Lewis, however my shoulder was still crock so we didn’t do anything. Wasn’t too bothered as I climbed in this area last year. Watched the first England game in Stornoway which was scary.

Sunday 13th ferry to Ullapool, wet again so we just went to look at Bouldering Cliff at Reiff. Next day was glorious so trekked in to Leaning Block area, did an E1, Wall of Silence E3, and The Gift E5. Have to say that I loved the climbing, very like extended grit routes, and the situation couldn’t be bettered, I’m keen to go back. Plan was to climb at the fantastic looking Bouldering Cliff, but it had rained overnight and was drenched. Then the weather turned so we left. We stayed on the shore at Achiltibuie, you can drive a van onto the grass. Lovely spot looking over the Summer Isles. The bar Am Fuaran comes highly recommended, especially for food. I had probably the best fish and chips I’ve ever had there and the staff were incredibly friendly, even offering to let us stay the night in their car park (campsite is currently under construction).

Had a look at Ardmair on Tuesday 15th but it was wet and have to admit somewhat uninspiring apart from Burning Desire. We did a spot of bouldering on Ardmair Beach which frankly I thought was rubbish.

Wed 16th we travelled down to Gairloch area. Went sport climbing at Goat Crag due to intermittent showers. Normally I wouldn’t bother with sport up here but I’m glad I did as it stayed dry and Mactalla 7a+ is one of the best sport routes I’ve done in Britain. The harder routes also looked brilliant and I would recommend the crag to anyone. Plan the next day was to go up to Lochan Dubh but the weather was showery again so we dodged the showers at the small sport crag near Tollaidh crags. This was OK but regrettably it started to properly piss down otherwise we’d have got on the Tollaidh crags themselves. Next day was glorious but time constraints due to my girlfriend having to pick up Uni results on internet mid afternoon meant we ended up at the closest crag to our van spot with short routes and a short approach - Mungasdale (I would have preferred to go to Lochan Dubh!). I found this sharp, slippy, and in areas slightly loose. It definintely didn’t help being in the full sun, but I see this more as a locals crag and wouldn’t advise a visit by tourists.

19th June we went to Torridon late on. We bouldered on The Ship boulder the next morning despite the baking heat. I really rated it, definitely some of the best lines and rock I’ve been on in the UK. Looked like masses of potential too. Managed Malcolm Smith’s Arete which took me ages and seemed very difficult for 7a+, but it was a grease factory. I will definitely be back one spring/autumn, hopefully with a team. In the afternoon we went to Diabaig. We did Northumberland Wall E2 5c and Wall of Flame pitch 1 E4 6a. I have to say this was some of, if not the best cragging I’ve done in Britain. Seems like the nearest you’ll get to Yosemite granite and style over here anyhow – pristine rock, good but spaced gear, off vertical technical climbing with cracks thrown in. Even the walk in reminded me of Yosemite. Great spot, shame there isn’t more of it really. Next day we cycled about and had a meal at The Torridon Inn which was lovely and great value. Overall I rated Torridon very highly and will definintely be back – free campsite, free hot showers and bog, not far to shop and café, not far to friendly yet grand pub/restaurant, 2 min walk in to best bouldering in UK, loads of potential, great cragging at Diabaig, ace looking sandstone crag in valley, awesome looking hillwalking, and super quiet to boot. Shame we only came across it during last two days as I probably wouldn’t have left otherwise! I will definitely return.

Overall we ended up being a bit hampered by the weather but as usual a great time was had. Thanks everyone for the advice.

[SA Chris]

great stuff. Keen to head to Barra, esp as surf is meant to be ace,a nd some nice boudlering in recent Stoen Country mini guide.

Uists are pretty bleak in bad weather, and of not much interest unless you have a sea kayak or surfboard.

Glad you enjoyed Reiff, how was walk in to Leaning Block? When we waled in a few years back we did a fair bit of bog wading, hopefully dry string was a bit better for you. So much bouldering potential around too.

Shame the old campsite on the beach at Achnahair is closed, was one of the prettiest I have seen in UK. Agree Am Fuaran is great, be nice when new campsite is complete.

Ardmair Beach is a fun diversion en route up North, I like it more for outlook than probs. And skimming stones.

AFAIK, Mungasdale is def not one of the best crags in the area, you are the first person I know who has been there.

I know a pebble snapped on Malc's Arete, not sure if it went up a grade or not. I reckon the unclimbed line just right would be right up your street given the right conditions.

Diabaig is great, in spite of tedious drive to get there. Is that fishing boats still ashed up on beach?

Glad you enjoyed it. Shout if you plan another trip, will hopefully be a bit more mobile by later in the year.

[richieb]

Glad you had a good trip Nige. Glad you enjoyed Mactalla too, Ive been banging on about that route for ages.
Chris....I too have been to Mungasdale!

[SA Chris]

I was expecting that response. Guess it really is a local crag for local people then.

[Fiend]

I love Gairloch and Gruinard and still don't fancy Mungedale

[SA Chris]

Even the name doesn't sound right. Halfway between minge and cludge.

[tc]

I've been. But then I've been everywhere. And I live near Mungrisdale.