[Nigel]

Hi guys / gals,

I’m off for my annual Scotland jolly with the lady in early June, the current rough plan is to spend a week travelling up through the Outer Hebrides from Barra to Lewis, returning to the mainland at Ullapool, then another week or so mooching about the West coast. Climbing will be on the back burner on the islands, but I wouldn’t mind doing a bit here and there on the mainland. I’ve not spent any time up here so any advice would be appreciated.

Ideas at the moment are Reiff, Ardmair, the Gairloch outcrops, and the Torridon outcrops. We plan to drive through all these areas but I’m just wondering which ones will be worth spending most time at. The ideal places would be somewhere with good hillwalking, secluded beaches, smart places to park the van, suave pubs, and reasonably convenient crags with VS-ish routes for her and stuff up to E6 for me, ideally where I can ab for the gear if needs be. I’m also aware that some of these areas have bouldering, any knowledge on this would be appreciated too.

I realise that all of the above are likely to fit the bill, the reason I ask is that a bit of knowledge goes a long way. It all looks amazing in the Gary Latter guide, but then so did Staffin Slip Buttress on Skye and that was a filthy nightmare with a bramble walk in!

Really I would like to hear your experiences,

Cheers. 

[slackline]

Chris will be along shortly with detailed advice, but Applecross would tick many of these boxes.  Not sure about spots for pulling up in the camper, but the pub has great nosh...

[iain]

I've not spent a huge amount of up that way but:

Reiff - utterly amazing but isolated, potentially long walk-ins as the better stuff is further away and it's open to every bit of weather coming into the west coast. Massive grade spread, single pitch and easily abbed to retrieve gear. Reiff in the woods, http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Reiff_in_the_Woods is good for a visit while passing. Good beaches nearby, even one at the bottom of a campsite (although the site itself is expensive and no facilities apart from running water when I was last there)

Gairloch crags - good quality from my limited (and bolt orientated) experience but not necessarily wide grade spread at the same crag. Some of the single pitch trad descents near the bolted stuff (eg.around goat crag) have bolted anchors. Some very boggy approaches and potential midge hell, (the Loch Maree crags were particularly nightmare inducing.) Spied some nice looking beaches from a distance and it's a gorgeous part of the coast.

In terms of hills it's such a beautiful part of the world it doesn't really matter where you are.


However, bad slack--line, I'm hankering for fish and chips now 

[SA Chris]

AArgh! Info overload!

http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/html/hebrides.html

Might be useful for starters. For a trip like yours the Latter Guides are pretty much ideal.

For June you could do with midge proofing your van I bought some of this stuff - http://www.midgie.net/

The large size is big enough to close in the van door so it covers the window, which you can then open to allow air in. Some old fridge magnets seal it long the bottom.

[SA Chris]

OK,

Nigel, top trip you have planned there, basically the route you will be taking will tick all the boxes you are after. I don't know much about Barra, S Uist and Benbecula but if you just look on google maps you will find no end of nice beaches, and places to park the van. In that download for the hebrides I linked to previously there is some info on bouldering on Barra that looks good.

On N Uist there is a nice place to park up at Hosta beach. If you are travelling up the west side of the island, turn left through a gate opposite the signpost to the right for Hosta. Take the left fork for a high spot overlooking the beach, or a right fork for a low spot with a bench. If you are going to swim, Hosta has a notorious rip that runs from N to south across the bay. It has claimed lives! There is a nicer safe beach just to the north. If you have any fishing, surf or snorkelling gear I would recommend throwing it in.

Don't know much about Harris, apart from the beach at Scarista (I think) is huge and beautiful. There is some bouldering at Clisham pass too. Once you are on Lewis there is loads of good climbing on the Uig seacliffs - mostly single pitch, with some bigger stuff at Screaming Geo (I think) which you might well do to avoid. I recall Flannan Crack being a nice VS, and there being some harder stuff around it. There is a nice campsite where you can park up at Cnip (no idea of pronounciation) and some good bouldering close by. Definitely go check out the stone circles at Callanish, really nice at sunset or dawn. That's all the climbing we did on Lewis, but the Latter Guide has loads more, and some good looking bouldering too.

Once you have got over from Stornaway (not much going for it, but a couple of OK restaurants) to Ullapool (loads of good fish restaurants and pubs) it's worth doubling back and heading to to Ardmair - good routes on the crag, lovely bouldering spot on the beach, and the best skimming stones in the world ever. And get some hill walking in esp get up Stac Pollaidh either as a walk, or by one of the various routes. Get to Reiff as well, tons of great single pitch routes, highballs, micro routes, bouldering.

Will cover the route back south tomorrow.

Oh and get a pair of wellies, lots of routes have boggy approaches.

[Fiend]

Top plan there Goldenballs.

I vote for Ardmair (more jamming cracks than Reiff iirc, steady approach), Loch Tollaidh @ Gairloch (very easy approach, possibly damp), and Torridon outcrops (needs a bloody chairlift but worth it). All awesome and all particularly good for having mid-grade and hard routes at the same crag with easy abseiling. That would give you a good variety of rock including some of the best in the UK.

Free campsite at Torridon to stick yer van, showers and toilets. The hotel/bar restaurant opposite the bay a couple of miles south was nice. Oh and the hotel/pub at the south end of the Gairloch bay is good too. Lovely part of the world.

Send her off hillwalking/basking for a couple of days and I'll belay you on some E6s, there's an E7 7a at Loch Tollaidh that could do with more attention I'm sure...

[SA Chris]

.......and before we leave the islands, don't count on anything being open on a Sunday, esp on Lewis and Harris. Not even a filling station.

Reiff - old campsite has closed, but there are many options of places to park up, just do not park up overnight at Reiff itself, as the locals do not look kindly on it. Most pubs are happy for you to park up outside for the night if you are going to have a meal and a few beers with them.

Are you planning on heading up any further than Reiff? If so, make the efort to get up to Sheigra. Lots of class routes right through the grades and some glorious beaches. N Wall of First Geo has your name written al over it - loads of long single pitch routes in E4 - E7 range on perfect Gneiss. You can go there on the scenic route from Reiff via Lochinver (and even make a detour to bag the Old Man of Stoer) and then head back via the main road, which is only slightly less scenic. Good parking up spot is at Knockan Crag Visitor's Centre, just N of the Reiff turnoff. toulet open 24 hours, and a bit of a geology walk you can do while waiting for the am coffee to do it's work .

Once you have turned off the A835 you can stop at Corrieshalloch Gorge (a glacial slot gorge) which i quite cool to see, and think how it miust have looked when it froze up last winter (for the first time in decades).

Next stop would be the Gruinard Bay Crags (loads to choose from) and then on to the next chapter - Gairloch.

[SA Chris]

I'll belay you on some E6s, there's an E7 7a at Loch Tollaidh that could do with more attention I'm sure...

Conqustador? Looks amazing and utterly nails 7a boulder prob off the ground.

[SA Chris]

Ni(g)el, are you actually reading any of this, or am I just wittering on aimlessly?

Oh yes, on N Uist there is a smokehouse that does outstanding (but pretty pricey) smoked stuff http://www.hebrideansmokehouse.com/

and a fresh fish van you might see driving about that sells excellent fresh fish, including excellent hand dived scallops.

[Nigel]

Alright chaps, yes I've just caught up with this thread! Apologies but I forgot I asked about this after I hurt my ankle, didn't look at UKB for a bit, and it got lost in a sea of unread topics! Thanks a bunch for the info Chris and Fiend, some well deserved bon Karma is coming your way. The beta on the smokehouse and the fresh fish van is just as, if not more, important than the climbing beta - we had some great hand dived scallops from the Seatrek team at Aird Uig on Lewis last year, absolutely fantastic.

Funny you should mention Screaming Geo as somewhere to avoid, we did Prozac Link last year which was my girlfriend's first multipitch (she seconded it all). Bit of a baptism of fire and part of the reason that I asked about logistically easier stuff! Conquistador would interest me but it will depend on the ankle and if it looks any good when we get there.

[Johnny Brown]

we did Prozac Link last year which was my girlfriend's first multipitch

You never mentioned that. Jesus, what a tragedy. So young, and now with nothing to look forward to. For the rest of her life, trad multipitch is going to be one long disappointment.

[Nigel]

On the contrary, for her its: "Trad multipitch?"

Tick.

[SA Chris]

No worries. Will need a gudebook to remember best order for doing thinks travelling south through gruinard bay etc.

[richieb]

Hi Nigel, some good stuff there from the others so I will try not to repeat too much.

One other spot I would recommend is Achmelvich near Lochinver,  about an hour north of Ullapool. Not on your planned route but could be worth the detour.  Awesome beaches, nice campsite with chippy and a 10 minute walk to a crag called 'Clean Cut' which has a stunning route Julian Lines did a few years ago called 'Flawless', he described it as the 'Masters Edge of Scotland'. Probably the best line I've seen up here so far. Its a sea cliff but an easy scramble down to the base.
 
There is an amazing pie shop in Lochinver too.

As fiend says, Loch Tollaidh near Gairloch is a good cragging spot, quality VS's alongside quality e6's.
Hope you get the weather and have a great trip.
 

[tc]

Make time to climb on Barra if you are island hopping. All the fun of the Southern Barra Islands sea cliffs without the expense of the little boat and without being marooned for a week. Not as good as Pabbay, Mingulay or Berneray but still superb climbing. Camp on the far side of the Vatersay causeway.
tc

[Johnny Brown]

Where are the crags tc? Nowt in the Latter guide...

The camping spot on Vatersay is about as nice as anywhere I've been. Its not the far side of the causeway though, but by the village hall between the beaches.

[Nigel]

I was just about to ask that myself! Come on TC, spill some beans, I know you're the font of all knowledge for this area. I've seen a pics of an awesome deep water bouldering arch on Barra on a sea kayaking website, I'll try and find that and put it up.

Richieb, that has definately piqued my interest! Is there anymore you can tell me about this route, do any pictures exist? Will Julian's FA description be online anywhere - Scottishclimbs maybe? If I'm swayed enough I could well get up there, it sounds great.

[SA Chris]

If that's the route I've seen on Flickr somewhere (Ian Taylor's pics?) it looks stunning indeed. Is there anything there for mortals richie?

[Nigel]

Alright Chris, any chance of a link to pics? I've had a look on Flickr for "Ian Taylors" but its a bit of a task!

[SA Chris]

Will see what I can find

[tc]

There's no guide available yet but the following info should get you there:
The crags form a continuous line from the stream of Glen Bretadale to the headland of Rubha na Doirlinn on the west coast of the island. Most of the obvious lines in this area have now been done -- seek and send! Steve Crowe and others (Colin Moody?) have also explored the coastline south of the canyon where the Bretadale stream drops into the sea.
Adam: I don't know where you camped but we drove over the causeway onto Vatersay, turned right and camped near the old cottage, below the track that leads down to the Traigh Bharlais beach (more climbing and bouldering here). And very nice it was too.
 

[Nigel]

Brilliant. Cheers TC, you're a star. I'll be sure to report back if I get on these crags.

Chris, thanks in advance.

I love UKB. 

[SA Chris]

It was Richie's (hope you don't mind me taking the liberty!)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/richiebetts/3466031746/#secret07285a846a-w500-h375

Here's Ian Taylor's anyway to get you psyched

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05/

[dave]

that looks well braun.

[Johnny Brown]

The crags form a continuous line from the stream of Glen Bretadale to the headland of Rubha na Doirlinn on the west coast of the island.

Ah, obvious now I look at the map.

I don't know where you camped but we drove over the causeway onto Vatersay, turned right and camped near the old cottage, below the track that leads down to the Traigh Bharlais beach

Ah, yes, we drove down there for a look but it was exposed and stank of fish. We camped here (you can just see the tent on the dunes on the left), there is a toilet, tap and bins at the village hall too (right of the parked car).



edit: yowzers, nice vid! Flawless looks amazing!

[Nigel]

This thread has just got stratospherically exciting! I'm foaming at the mouth, can't wait. Chris, cheers for the vid and link to pics, that Flickr gallery is very inspiring, although it raises more questions than it answers! Where is Ullapool River Gorge? Is Ardmair beach any good? Is Reiff In The Woods as good as it looks? How amazing is Burning Desire?! Etc. I could go on.

Adam, beautiful picture as always.

[Nigel]

P.S. What grade we talking about for Flawless?

[SA Chris]

You will need to pick the local's brains, but..

Ullapool River Gorge - No Idea, would love to know.

Ardmair Beach is quite small, but some great roofy probs. Stunning spot, but sheltered and v midgy - best in late afternoon / evening when sun gets on it. As I said before, the beach has the best skimming stones ever. It's no distance from the road and a nice spot t chill out. V close to Armari Crag as well.

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ardmair_Beach

Reiff in the Woods - had a look, but not spent much time there - usually on way to Reiff proper. Looks ace, but quite sheltered so can be midgy. Stac Pollaidh is right opposite.

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Reiff_in_the_Woods

Burning Desire looks superb, but a bit rich for my blood so can't really comment.

[richieb]

Nige,

Reiff in the Woods is top, despite being in the woods it catches plenty of breeze which is good news in June.. You can get a bouldering guide from northwest outdoors in Ullapool.  Includes RITW, Ardmair and several other spots. A decent plan is to have a day at Reiff itself and then call in at RITW in the evening when it gets the sun.

Flawless - was given e7 6c I think by Jules. If you climb the wrong side of the arete like I did on my headpoint probably more like e6 6b.
When we went up there to find it I had no description other than its a stunning arete on a sea cliff somewhere near Achmelvich and that you switch from one side of the arete to the other at some point.
Took about 2 hours to find the crag, even though its 10 mins from the campsite.  Its all pretty obvious up to the gear just above half height, then I swung round onto the lefthand side (steeper but with more holds). I found out afterwards that Jules had climbed the slabbier but much more insecure righthand side (should have known really!). 
Either way the gear is at the same height and the route is brilliant. 

Theres an e3/4 groove to the left of Flawless and an e1 further left again and that's about it as far as I know. The crag is mentioned in the SMC northern highlands north guide and called 'Clean Cut' but the approach description is wrong. Feel free to PM me if you want anymore info.

Burning Desire is quality. As is everything else at Ardmair. Ian T has just written a new routes update for the area which has about 40 or so extra routes at Ardmair, some of which are awesome, again available in the outdoor shop in Ullapool. 

[SA Chris]

So do we get any feedback?

[Nigel]

Yes, you do! I will try and keep things somewhat climbing oriented as I know people aren’t going to be interested in a blow by blow account of someone else’s holiday. Must say we didn’t get much climbing done, although we did have a great time.

We spent four days on Barra, arriving Sunday evening 6th June. The weather was perfect the whole time. We cycled around the island, did a bit of walking, and took a boat trip to Mingulay. This was definitely the highlight and comes highly recommended (see Recent Wildlife Sightings thread). The cliffs on Mingulay and Pabbay looked fantastic. There were climbers on Pabbay but not Mingulay. I also went for a look at the crags on Barra after JB texted me on day 2 to say a topo had just gone up on UKC. I have to say these looked fantastic too (similar to Pabbay & Mingulay, unsurprisingly), quite extensive and seemingly lots of room for new routes. For the boulderers there is a steep wall on the way to the crags (15 mins from the parking at Vatersay causeway) which looks like it would have a fair bit on. I have pictures of both which I will attempt to get up here. Sadly we didn’t climb anything as I had a crock shoulder.

I would say that you could have a great trip just to Barra itself, the climbing looked good enough and it is a wonderful place to be. Presumably the advantage over the other islands is that you can spend wet days in some degree of comfort/civilisation. Also, given that during our boat trip we had 2 hours ashore on Mingulay, I see no reason why you couldn’t have a word with the boat chap if you had a run of weather and maybe nip over to Mingulay for a few days in high season, he seemed to be doing the trip nearly every day, no doubt he could drop you off one trip and pick you up on another a few days later. Worth considering.

One tip would be to buy some fresh fish from the Barratlantic fish van which tours the island. Super fresh and incredibly cheap (we got 2 massive fillets each of Ling and Hake for £3.50, we were eating it all day. Gorgeous).

Thursday 10th weather crapped out and we headed North through Uists. We had been tipped off by several people that these were pretty grim places relative to Barra and Lewis/Harris. I agree. Basically just drove through with a stop at Balranald nature reserve.

Friday 11th got to Harris, was going to walk in to look at Strone Ulladale but the weather was apocalyptic. Next day was fine weather and we went to Painted Geo on Lewis, however my shoulder was still crock so we didn’t do anything. Wasn’t too bothered as I climbed in this area last year. Watched the first England game in Stornoway which was scary.

Sunday 13th ferry to Ullapool, wet again so we just went to look at Bouldering Cliff at Reiff. Next day was glorious so trekked in to Leaning Block area, did an E1, Wall of Silence E3, and The Gift E5. Have to say that I loved the climbing, very like extended grit routes, and the situation couldn’t be bettered, I’m keen to go back. Plan was to climb at the fantastic looking Bouldering Cliff, but it had rained overnight and was drenched. Then the weather turned so we left. We stayed on the shore at Achiltibuie, you can drive a van onto the grass. Lovely spot looking over the Summer Isles. The bar Am Fuaran comes highly recommended, especially for food. I had probably the best fish and chips I’ve ever had there and the staff were incredibly friendly, even offering to let us stay the night in their car park (campsite is currently under construction).

Had a look at Ardmair on Tuesday 15th but it was wet and have to admit somewhat uninspiring apart from Burning Desire. We did a spot of bouldering on Ardmair Beach which frankly I thought was rubbish.

Wed 16th we travelled down to Gairloch area. Went sport climbing at Goat Crag due to intermittent showers. Normally I wouldn’t bother with sport up here but I’m glad I did as it stayed dry and Mactalla 7a+ is one of the best sport routes I’ve done in Britain. The harder routes also looked brilliant and I would recommend the crag to anyone. Plan the next day was to go up to Lochan Dubh but the weather was showery again so we dodged the showers at the small sport crag near Tollaidh crags. This was OK but regrettably it started to properly piss down otherwise we’d have got on the Tollaidh crags themselves. Next day was glorious but time constraints due to my girlfriend having to pick up Uni results on internet mid afternoon meant we ended up at the closest crag to our van spot with short routes and a short approach - Mungasdale (I would have preferred to go to Lochan Dubh!). I found this sharp, slippy, and in areas slightly loose. It definintely didn’t help being in the full sun, but I see this more as a locals crag and wouldn’t advise a visit by tourists.

19th June we went to Torridon late on. We bouldered on The Ship boulder the next morning despite the baking heat. I really rated it, definitely some of the best lines and rock I’ve been on in the UK. Looked like masses of potential too. Managed Malcolm Smith’s Arete which took me ages and seemed very difficult for 7a+, but it was a grease factory. I will definitely be back one spring/autumn, hopefully with a team. In the afternoon we went to Diabaig. We did Northumberland Wall E2 5c and Wall of Flame pitch 1 E4 6a. I have to say this was some of, if not the best cragging I’ve done in Britain. Seems like the nearest you’ll get to Yosemite granite and style over here anyhow – pristine rock, good but spaced gear, off vertical technical climbing with cracks thrown in. Even the walk in reminded me of Yosemite. Great spot, shame there isn’t more of it really. Next day we cycled about and had a meal at The Torridon Inn which was lovely and great value. Overall I rated Torridon very highly and will definintely be back – free campsite, free hot showers and bog, not far to shop and café, not far to friendly yet grand pub/restaurant, 2 min walk in to best bouldering in UK, loads of potential, great cragging at Diabaig, ace looking sandstone crag in valley, awesome looking hillwalking, and super quiet to boot. Shame we only came across it during last two days as I probably wouldn’t have left otherwise! I will definitely return.

Overall we ended up being a bit hampered by the weather but as usual a great time was had. Thanks everyone for the advice.

[SA Chris]

great stuff. Keen to head to Barra, esp as surf is meant to be ace,a nd some nice boudlering in recent Stoen Country mini guide.

Uists are pretty bleak in bad weather, and of not much interest unless you have a sea kayak or surfboard.

Glad you enjoyed Reiff, how was walk in to Leaning Block? When we waled in a few years back we did a fair bit of bog wading, hopefully dry string was a bit better for you. So much bouldering potential around too.

Shame the old campsite on the beach at Achnahair is closed, was one of the prettiest I have seen in UK. Agree Am Fuaran is great, be nice when new campsite is complete.

Ardmair Beach is a fun diversion en route up North, I like it more for outlook than probs. And skimming stones.

AFAIK, Mungasdale is def not one of the best crags in the area, you are the first person I know who has been there.

I know a pebble snapped on Malc's Arete, not sure if it went up a grade or not. I reckon the unclimbed line just right would be right up your street given the right conditions.

Diabaig is great, in spite of tedious drive to get there. Is that fishing boats still ashed up on beach?

Glad you enjoyed it. Shout if you plan another trip, will hopefully be a bit more mobile by later in the year.

[richieb]

Glad you had a good trip Nige. Glad you enjoyed Mactalla too, Ive been banging on about that route for ages.
Chris....I too have been to Mungasdale!

[SA Chris]

I was expecting that response. Guess it really is a local crag for local people then.

[Fiend]

I love Gairloch and Gruinard and still don't fancy Mungedale

[SA Chris]

Even the name doesn't sound right. Halfway between minge and cludge.

[tc]

I've been. But then I've been everywhere. And I live near Mungrisdale.