[Three Nine]

might get to try this at the weekend (if dry). any essential beta which might save me hours of floundering?

[GCW]

The videos on Yorkshire Grit are your friends.
All in the heel/toe it seems.

[dave]

or if you can't be strong, be tall.

[Three Nine]

are you allowed to finish up the easy arete once at the break, or do you have to stay left of it?

[GCW]

Easy Arete is Dolphin Belly Slap, 6c+.

[Stubbs]

The best finish is straight up the wall: from the break match the ear above and press out to the juggy mono and then to the break - more quality moves.

[Jim]

The best advice I can give on this problem, don't try to use a heel/toe lock, it doesn't work. Do it using a toe hook only and its fine.
I spend ages trying it with a foot lock and then as soon as I just used the toe I did it. good problem

[Control freak]

With you there word - the heel/toe hurts and you only need to use it on the left hand varient.

Step your right toe in with you left foot on the back wall or if your not flexible enough, drop you right hand back under to a slopy undercling first

[Stu Littlefair]

addendum:

Eschewing the heel will make life hard for those under 5ft8 or so. Even when using the toe hook, its important just to drag your toe, and not attempt a heel-toe. This is what jim means I think...

[Jim]

correct

[GCW]

I feel I may have been unclear.  What I said was heel/toe, I didn't mean heel-toe, I meant heel or toe.
So there.

[andy_e]

The trick is to get your right knee pointing leftwards when your right toe is on the flake in the roof- essential for me at least.

[Control freak]

Ok - the memories a little hazy cos its been a few years since Ive done it. But it goes a little something like this....

1) Hands matched on big hold at back
2) RH to the pocket in the roof
3) LH to edge in roof
4) LF onto polished edge below starting hold
5) LH to sloper on lip
6) RF toe hook on shallow pocket in roof. Its important not to put your toe too far in, just drag it on the edge
7) RH sloper on lip
LH good edge
9) RF in pocket as per (2) - if you not flexible enough drop your RH back under to slopey undercut. Drop your knee to the left
10) RH to small 2 finger edge and again to good break

Top out and bask in the glory.

[squeek]

addendum:

Eschewing the heel will make life hard for those under 5ft8 or so. Even when using the toe hook, its important just to drag your toe, and not attempt a heel-toe. This is what jim means I think...

Last time I was there, a guy who obviously goes there a lot was telling my friend that because he was smaller than the guy he wouldn't be able to do it with the toe hook and would have to use the nasty heel+toe.  He said he couldn't do it because he couldn't use the toe hook. 

My friend just got on it and did it with the toe hook (he was very stretched though), the guy wasn't impressed and sulked off. 

[Stu Littlefair]

Effort. It's not impossible with the toe hook by any means. I'm 5'6'' with a negative ape index, a lingering odour and few friends and even I can do it the toe hook way occasionally. S'easier with the the heel though.

I think people don't look very closely at the heel hook when trying it. You've got to take your boot off, get under the roof and see how to put it in right (hint: it goes further back than you think). Once you get the knack, it doesn't hurt at all.....

[dave]

yeah, that heel in the roof is bomber. i do DWR with a foot at the back the lanky way, but used the heel trying the LH version and i almost decided it would even make DWR easier it was so good.

[webbo]

i wish someone would show me where it is.iv'e poked about with various makes of shoes trying to get one to fit as well as asking all and sundry the whereabouts of this heel hook.everyones heard of it but no one knows where it is.
seems to be some sort of urban myth to me.

[dave]

think its on some kinda unlikely looking thin spike or fin of rock forming part of the flake. works better with boots like dragons/V10s with a thin wedge of rubber or seam along the back of the heel.

[webbo]

i know the bit you mean and have tried all the shoes in my stable at sometime or other but alas no cigar.

[dave]

maybe try glueing a cigar to the back of your boot. something about the size of a slim panatella.

[andy_e]

I can't get that heel in at all, it just won't stick.

What's the beta for the original version (going up to the ear)?

[Stubbs]

Same as normal version up to having rail with left and little crimp with right, then take right foot out of jug in roof and put it on the lip hold of DBS and rock up onto this foot to take the ear.  If you have longish legs and some flexibility you can get and egyptian in with your left foot on the flake in the roof.

[andy_e]

Shit me, I'm gonna have to get some finger strength for that one. I did think that was the beta but I had my right on the hold on the lip. It's a bloody long way!

[tomtom]

A rather shaky (my legs rather than the footage) video of a tall mans way of DWR... Body tension had deserted me yesterday - but somehow I struggled up...