[abarro81]

World's hardest 7b+? I'd say so.

Retracting the claim that R&H hard way is 7a+ or just got no power endurance? 

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread duma

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.4-5

M. Post Font sadness
T. Early AM Yoga - (bit too much chanting creeping in for my liking)
W. AM Tor Worked the Toilet and refined the crux. 2 TRs on Sardine
T. Early AM Yoga (different teacher / only one set of Om's) late AM Board fingery endurance session. PM Short weights session inspired by lagerstarfish doing Jarovek DB complexes - hadn't done weights since mid Feb
F. Eve Took boys to Stanage to do top roping but on Walk-in realised I'd forgotten the rope  We all did some bouldering and I managed Adults Only which had repelled me over the years 
S.AM Tor Re-engineered the crux of the Toilet yet again with Alan Murray's advice. PM Saw Alice in Wonderland with the family.
S. Annual junior rugby festival in Matlock. At end dragged family across road to Willersley and had a nightmare putting a rope up a VS. Had an argument with my eldest.

Getting ahead of myself but went to Tor today (Monday) and in afternoon did a weights session and manged PB's on Powerclean (70kg) and deadlift (147.5kgs) - though didnt quite straighten back. No idea where these PBs came from.

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure, Hall of Mirrors
MTG: Be able to onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Freaky Ralph, Infinite Gravity

Mon: fingerboard and 50 min run
Tues: 2 x 35 mins ARC'ing
Wed: fingerboard and 50 min run
Thurs: Volume routes at the wall. Felt spanked after so was a good session. Susan has decided she's going to work her weaknesses, which means getting on the overhanging routes. Was really inspiring watching her fight her way up them, proper effort. My wife has a far better leading head and willingness to fight than I do, wish mental osmosis worked.
Fri: Cooking carbonara, finished bottle of wine, yum
Sat: Fab day out with loads of people and satisfying volume of routes including some my head didn't like which was good training.
Sun: Great day bouldering, (cheers Andy). Fluffed end (and crux) of PE traverse multiple times before realising it would be a good idea to work it separately, then didn't have enough left. Punter. Got excuse in about bad shoes though

Feel properly done in today in a good way.

oh and 65kg

[Charles]

World's hardest 7b+? I'd say so.

Retracting the claim that R&H hard way is 7a+ or just got no power endurance? 

Less  than no power endurance! It's only 7 moves!

You'll find me this week on the campus board trying to be more like you. And failing!

[webbo]

Week off work
Mon bouldering rockcity got it futher on a couple of problems ok session
Tue told to take daughter to college so ended up at oaklands for a couple of hours even though i'd not planned to climb today.same problems as when i last visited.did one i couldn't do last time and repeated all the others i did before.meal out to celebrate 25th wedding anniversary.
Wed well rough.
Thu take car to garage for mot.go for a walk with the missus while its being done.5 miles.get back to find it needs £700 worth of repairs.out on my bike 11/2 hours including 8x5mins on 1min off at aerobic threshold.deadhanging session struggled a bit.
Fri nowt
Sat bouldering goldsborough car.a bit warm flashed a couple of v5s and spent ages failing on a 3 move v2 before doing the 3 move v1 after 20 plus goes.
Sun bouldering rockcity due to it raining.good session managed a problem i've spent 3 sessions on v7 but probably easier than yesterdays v1.
Good week in terms of effort i feel.

[shark]

I'm not posting on this bloody thread any more because it's jinxed me. Every time I post on here I seem to get ill or something else happens to prevent me from climbing or training. So it can piss off.

 

[richdraws]

STG - the press, kudos traverse, laps on brad pitt.
MTG - 7c on lime
LTG - 8a
Doing a few months of limited sessions per week as a test to see if I progress slower or faster.

Wednesday - caned myself on my cellar board, set 6 problems with hard moves for me. Finished with pull ups on finger holds abnd press ups and various ab/lower back exercises. Pretty much trained to failure.

Sunday - Rubicon. My skin was thinner than expected and tore up a lot and I seem to be struggling with a bit of sciatica. I managed to warm up eventually, made progress on the press and kudos traverse.
Again I climbed til skin was knackered went home and did 5x10 half crimp pull ups.

[JamesD]

Ok been mega slack in updating on last week, so here goes:

Monday:
Indoor session, V1's are starting to feel as easy as V0's used to, my fingers are getting stronger, my skin is getting tougher, i'm spending as much time as possible on overhangs lately, really feeling the benefits. I have also made a conscious effort to do more traversing now, it has greatly improved my foot work, and I am feeling much more confident and precise in my foot placement.
Got halfway up the V2 that I did the week before but my fingers were so tired from traversing that I backed off as they were starting to fatigue to the point where I was losing confidence in my grip.
Overall though a good session, I felt like I worked a greater quantity of problems in a short time, and felt good afterwards.

Tuesday: Gym, mostly explosive exercises this time, did the following:

Jump pull ups (jump from a deep squat position to an explosive pull-up on the bar)
One armed dumbell snatches from the floor, low weight but attempting to travel as fast as possible
Overhead barbell squats
Planks held for 1 minute plus with feet on swiss ball
1 foot planks held for similar time period
Pull up bar dead hangs
Rotator cuff exercises
Rear delt flys

Wednesday

Went for a play on the boulder in Shoreditch park with a couple of mates, worked a couple V2/V3 problems there, realized that slabs feel much sketchier than overhangs/vertical boulders, due to the fact that if you slip off there is a good chance of you hitting the rock face lol, I think this effected me a little bit as I kept jumping off at points where I probably could have carried on, but was unsure about my footholds and stuff, didn't actually complete any of the problems, but got 75% of the way through one....The weird thing is I think it was purely a psychological issue, I could physically do all the moves, but I just kept losing confidence in making that big move on something i'm not that used to (real rock slabs), and I know myself that when i'm not committed to it, that's when I make mistakes, so I backed off after lots of attempts and accepted that it wasn't to be tonight!

Thursday

Rest

Friday

Cycled to work

Swim Sauna Steam room

Saturday

rest

Sunday

Lonnnng swim, sauna steam room etc etc

All in all,  a productive week, my power endurance seems to be improving, i've lost a little weight, and my finger strength is going up, good shit man!

A bit slack on the gym, but the weather is just so nice out at the moment it felt a shame to waste it.

[andy popp]

S/MTG: Cheshire projects; score this week, one cleaned, none ticked

Mon: 100 crunches
Tues: 100 crunches
Wed: good - as in enjoyable - evening session out. No success on targets
Thurs: Nowt
Fri: swim 20x25m. Sauna and jacuzzi
Sat/Sun: Nothing, should and could have at least fingerboarded on Sun but didn't. Think I did crunches one or both days.

OK, I've done very little 'training' for at least a month now. After a (necessary) 'recovery phase' following intenser period through Jan to mid-March, followed by two frustrating weeks unable to do much due to back injury this week should have kicked back into great a bit. But it didn't - was plain lazy, especially on Sunday when I could easily have fitted in some repeaters..

[Nibile]

STG - keep training while recovering finger AND ELBOW!!!
LTG - total domination of any imaginable hold and move.

m - rest, yoga and stretching session with wii balance board. fun!!!
t- gym, 45° wall, all new problems, nothing really hard, doable in a few tries, both fingery and with dep locks. then footless bouldering, 7 moves x 4 reps
w- gym, 45° and 60° walls, as above. then footless bouldering on harder problems, x 6 reps.
t - rest.
f - gym, as above but without the footless bouldering at the end.
s and s - rest, alcohol and partying.

comments: the finger is getting slowly better, but my right elbow is a bit fried. i did too much too soon on the beastmaker, schoolboy's (or punter's) error. in the gym i am moving well, but my injuries hinder me alot at the moment, both physically and mentally. i am always setting new problems, that i want to do in the session. i also try and flash other people's problems. definitely not the best form of my life, but not bad either. very curious to test it on rock.

[Monolith]

Goal: Still project.

I'm not sure what I did each day but I think I only ran twice. The thursday was a fast time on the 3.5 mile circuit. Doing two laps tonight. Owing to massive time constraints I'm not managing much this month as my end of year project is coming to a close. After this though I have four months to climb which is nice.

Apologies to myself for not formally logging days this past week. Shall sort it out for this week.

[tommytwotone]

Blimey - our insect overlords have guilt-ed me into an update...thought I'd flown under the PC radar!

Last week was a bit of a blur - late on in a project, a few long and stressful days...anyway.

M - Nowt
T - 5k run on lunch, on a date eve so a few  drunk
W - Guisecliff session, got another move up the project
T - Gym session lunch, antagonists and core
F - Sod all
S - Worked until 2pm, grabbed a couple of hours at a clammy Cliff and then went out on the lash with one of the lads from work
S - Knack all as a result of Sat night. Monged on sofa and watched footy on Sky / snooker.

[Andy F]

I've had a shark bite reminding me to post, so:

Mon - rest
Tues - beastmaker, 45 min session
Wed - rest
Thurs - Longridge. First session there since last year, got the usual spanking. Did beta flash a good section (worth 7c apparently!) of the full traverse, which was nice.
Fri - beer
Sat - decorating
Sun - Kilnsey. usual warm up, put the clips in GA, undercut wet, pocket damp. Had a first go, felt clunky and unsure. Had second go and felt even worse. Sacked it off for the day. Tried to flash The Truth Drug (7b+), failed, did it next go. Not the best session ever, but saved by the quick tick of a good route.

[Yossarian]

Last week I was like fucking Superman (in my own special way...)

Monday - Bench press beasting
Tuesday - Couple of hours of MTB
Wednesday - FD-inspired power endurance session, which fucked me in the ass, especially the deadlifts.  Halfway through I developed bizarre deafness in one ear. Then I went running for half an hour, which crippled me but did restore hearing.
Thursday - Nother couple of hours of MTB.
Friday - Drank wine and ate steak in T. Simpson-era carbo loading execise.
Saturday - 60 hilly windy miles on road bike
Sunday - And I'm spent...