[SA Chris]

what am i supposed to apologise for?

Being a shit twat in general as well. No idea if you under or overgrade.

[Jaspersharpe]

what am i supposed to apologise for? all i wrote was right, as always (nearly)

nearly that time of yr jasper, be round yours shortly wi paperwork n we can downgrade andys pieces of shit shuffles, actually i don't care about the grades of shuffles like the visionary godoffe said "traverse grades are meaningless"

Should give traverses V grades I reckon. Yes just give me a call mate.

[Johnny Brown]

No idea if you under or overgrade

Can you grade deadhangs?

[shark]

No idea if you under or overgrade

Can you grade deadhangs?

What a ridiculous question - get with the programme

Of course you can:

http://beastmaker.co.uk/Hold%20RECORDS.htm

[Johnny Brown]

All but one of those are pull-ups, not hangs. Even so, unless your hands move at some point even pull-ups fail to fit within any definition of 'climbing'.

[shark]

All but one of those are pull-ups, not hangs.

One swallow might not make a spring but one graded deadhang makes a deadhang gradeable QED

Re other point I can think of two 'no-move' boulder problems. I'm sure there are more.

[Jaspersharpe]

We don't need another Malc's One Armer thread! 

[GCW]

Malc's isn't a no move problem though.  Hamper's Hang is, but Malc's involves movement and is therefore not allowable.

What other one were you thinking of, Shark?

[Jaspersharpe]

I thought he was going by JB's definition (as in hand movements) but I may well be mistaken?

[GCW]

I was assuming the dead-hang analogy was ongoing, and trying to avoid another Malc's thread

[Johnny Brown]

Malc's one armer is not a boulder problem. I thought we'd established that. The same goes for Hampers Hang. The Joker is a boulder problem - hanging one position is just that. Ditto 'Hic-up Pick-up'.

[Fiend]

Bloody trad bumblies, always getting distracted by that summit experience bollox and ignoring the true spirit of pure climbing.

[shark]

What other one were you thinking of, Shark?

'Hiccup Pickup' at Millstone and the one finger deadhang at Stoney beneath Our Father (presumably Proctor's) were the one's I was thinking of.

Given the variety of moves encompassed by grades I don't see why deadhanging should be excluded as it's a climbers-only challenge and an equivalent difficulty can be drawn with boulder problems.

[GCW]

i don't think anyone is disagreeing with you JB.  It was just a comment on the subdivisions of non-bouldering problems, or "silly feats".

But we've gone way off topic here.  And noone has mentioned Denham/Nik's Wall or "the problem captioned Ego" for ages.   

[Johnny Brown]

I don't see why deadhanging should be excluded as it's a climbers-only challenge and an equivalent difficulty can be drawn with boulder problems

Climbers only? How so. I'm sure anyone with hands and arms could have a go. In which case you mustl support Dawes' adoption of uk tech grades for picking up upside-down glasses, driving fast and slacklining.

Personally, I don't. If there's no climbing involved its not climbing.

[shark]

Climbers only? How so. I'm sure anyone with hands and arms could have a go. In which case you mustl support Dawes' adoption of uk tech grades for picking up upside-down glasses, driving fast and slacklining.

Personally, I don't. If there's no climbing involved its not climbing.

Anyone with hands and arms can give bouldering a go. Deadhanging is a climbers-only challenge because only climbers give it a name and take it seriously as an activity.

As for the rest I have no idea why I 'must' support grading the rest except that youve reached the end of the road in your line of argument.

Respect the deadhang. 

[Johnny Brown]

Climbing grades are for climbing. Peforming various acts with your limbs is not necessarily climbing. If you grade activities only vaguely related to climbing, why choose just one? Where do you stop?

What about captains of crush - what grade to close a 2? Or professors of pinch - the skill eqivalent to CoCs strength test. I might be the best there ever was but I'm not so daft as to grade it.

[andy_e]

I'm still going to take 7b+ for 1-4-7.

[Paul B]

I might be the best there ever was but I'm not so daft as to grade it.

You should be copying ondra these days not Sharmatron

[SA Chris]

[Johnny Brown]

I'm still going to take 7b+ for 1-4-7

Fair enough - it is climbing after all. You could imagine a problem that required climbing just like that.

[Fiend]

What about a roof route so hard with such minimal holds that the only place to make a clip (or place filed down RPs) is by doing a deadhang and clipping off that, eh??

Gotta look beyond the limits...

[Johnny Brown]

The fact that climbing may involve periods of no movement does not mean periods of no movement are therefore climbing.

[a dense loner]

i don't think anyone is disagreeing with you JB.  It was just a comment on the subdivisions of non-bouldering problems, or "silly feats".

But we've gone way off topic here.  And noone has mentioned Denham/Nik's Wall or "the problem captioned Ego" for ages.   

i see what u did there gcw, very good. now if only it wasn't mentioned in the previous post to which i'd written that it would have been excellent. i only ever mention it when people mention ego, the fa, me, never called it ego. thats all. oh this is also the fa that told loads of people at the time, not went on a forum 15 years later n claimed everything that couldn't move, "dense matter", shit i like that one. i never say in the middle of something else, "someone should go n do dark matter" do i? the answer is no, but a good effort nontheless 

[GCW]

I'm just glad that you could see it for the joke it was.