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Fruit of the Gloom - Slate (Read 3329 times)

Tommy

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Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 20, 2010, 12:38:09 am
Hi,

Can anyone tell me anything about this route, other than it's on the Slate and in California?

Cheers

Tom


Pantontino

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#1 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 20, 2010, 10:56:31 am
Here's the description from the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide:

Right of clean sweep of California Wall the crag deteriorates to utter choss; you might think that nothing can possibly climb this rotten area of rock, but you would be wrong. High up on the right is a hidden chimney, which is approached by making a death defying scramble to an ‘active’ belay ledge.

29. Fruit of the Gloom XS **
Utter madness. Traverse across seriously loose terrain, removing as much of the cliff as you feel appropriate until you reach the sanctuary of the man eating crack. Climb this to the top and belay with much relief.
[W Perrin, D Rudkin 2000]

I've got a photo of the first ascent (which will be published in the guide) - the main crack looks like a good feature, but the approach appears to be 'challenging'.

On the Dinorwig jamming tip, check this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=450

Tommy

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#2 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 20, 2010, 11:10:58 am
Cool, thanks for that Simon. I'll get over and get back to you with a tech grade ;-)   The description makes me feel a little better about missing it as I went over to California last weekend and still couldn't find it! Next time.

Big G still cranking them out.... ever young eh.

Hoseyb

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#3 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 20, 2010, 01:30:54 pm
Hi Tom, let us know when your down for this, I can at least point out the line, and I may be free for an adventure..

G's been taunting me about this hidden boulder crack.. I s'pose I'd better repeat it

Fiend

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#4 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 20, 2010, 03:05:30 pm
That boulder problem crack looks cool. Cake wedge slice jam!

Hoseyb

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#5 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
April 23, 2010, 05:13:58 pm
BTW Tom, did you visit Liquid Armbar?
I visited it yesterday and the old ab rope that I abandoned there has moved on...

Tommy

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#6 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
May 04, 2010, 10:01:04 pm
Hi Hosey,

No I've not been over to that quarry yet. I will do though as I'm keen to do your route. I did Gin Palace using some proper offwidthing technique the other day which was well good. Much easier if you offwidth it I reckon.


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#7 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
May 05, 2010, 08:30:28 pm
only had one go on Gin Palace, but got to that sloping ledge near the top of the chimney section, :bounce:
didn't find it too fierce with a baggy fingerlock/openarmbar combo going on with the right arm, as its then all on the feet. strained my knee a bit tho, but not as broken as after LA..

davetherud

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#8 Re: Fruit of the Gloom - Slate
June 06, 2010, 11:10:23 pm
Classic must do route ;)

 

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