[Duma]

Tom's sorted us out:
http://info.rockrun.com/tintagel-bouldering-(pdf).html
not a topo as such, but looks like it'll get you there and point you in the right general direction.

[JonI]

Cool, thanks for that.  Looks sweet!  Might try to get down that way for the May bank holiday.

[TN080]

Over the last few months I have been making several trips to Tintagel boulders adding several new lines with the help of a few others. Most of which have been easier problems but amongst these were a few good quality harder lines that had initially been walked past. This now provides the crag with over 15 problems graded font 7A and above, as well as a few remaining projects for visiting hardmen. The hardest line Colorado Dreaming has still yet to see a second ascent despite being one of the best problems on the Cornish coast. With the new additions the crag is now a must visit for anyone bouldering in the area.

List of the best 7A<.

The Mini Link 7A* (D. Westlake) The central section of Sharmajection finishing up the 6A arête.

118 7A* (T. Newberry) The full R-L traverse of the backside of the purple haze bloc.

Purple Haze (Original) 7A*** (T. Newberry) The original LH exit to the popular classic.

Pink Floyd *   7A (D. Westlake) In the centre of the backside of the purple haze block. SDS on a small pocket LH and low Crimp RH, finish in high juggy break.

Man O’War 7A* (T. Newberry) Located in the collection of boulders opposite Blue Ray. Climb the faint crack line, starting on chest high sidepulls, using a razor sharp pocket and some trickery. Project still remains on the wall to the right.

The Apprentice 7A/+** (T. Newberry) The shallow diagonal ramp line to the right of Purple Haze. Start sitting on the boulder big moves trend rightwards.

Planet Earth 7A+* (T. Newberry) climb the prow from low and right, found at the back of the boulders behind the project wall. The rock quality isn’t as good as other problems but it is none tidal and stays dry in light rain; needs a couple pads.

The Dismissal    7A+/B* (T. Newberry) Link the start of The Apprentice into the top of Purple Haze via some positive crimps.

How to Spoon feed Blue Rays 7B*** (T. Newberry) From the start of the sharmajection traverse (Opposite Purple Haze) climb the steep arête until it is possible the traverse into the cave and up Blue Ray. Hard for the Grade. 

Go Medium 7B** (M. Cleverdon) A reverse of the previous problem; start up Blue Ray and traverse out the cave and rock up onto the slab, the bold may continue up to the top.

Sharmajection 7B**   (T. Newberry) The big traverse of the first bloc from L-R, staying low (French 7Cish).

All Along the Watchtower 7B*** (T. Newberry) Climb Purple Haze RH to the lip, then follow the rising line of positive crimps into and up The Apprentice. Amazing!

Purple Haze Eliminate 7B* (T.Newberry) Climb Purple Haze LH without the small undercut/sidepull. A good crimpy version for those who tick everything else.

Kids 7B+ ** (T. Newberry) In the cave at the rear of the main sector. Pull on a small flake in the roof and powerfully blast to the lip, easier but equally good climbing follows through the steep roof on good holds to a high-ish top out.

Colorado Dreaming 7C+ *** (T. Newberry) The obvious steep flake line on the back side of the Kids boulder. SDS matched on the bottom of the flake. Hard and involved climbing leads through to an intimidating top out.

[Dr T]

Out of interest has there been a "proper" topo done for here since the last post?
Did a quick google but no joy....

[Duma]

Not as far as I'm aware. Until TN080's (Tom Newberry?) post the best link I had was the stuff on rustypeg.
A topo would be great as I'm generally not bad at finding my way about and still didn't manage to find all the stuff last spring when I went down.

[Doylo]

Can anyone tell me how long you get at Tintagel after low tide?

[Duma]

Depends on swell. For the Purple haze boulder you get about three hours either side of low if its calmish.

Top tip - take a cut off bottle to bail the little puddle under AWOL.

[Doylo]

Cheers Duma.

[ben]

and updates on the latest problems there
http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/coastal-crushing-roundup/

[SA Chris]

Top tip - take a cut off bottle to bail the little puddle under AWOL.

I have a car washing sponge in a ziplock bag in my coastal bouldering kit. Great for all forms of depuddling.

[Doylo]

Anyone know if the AWOL face gets the evening sun? I'm thinking of going down this eve but no point if it's in the sun.

[Duma]

Yeah pretty much faces west, it's all very positive holds though, so you'd probably be ok

[Doylo]

Yeah pretty much faces west, it's all very positive holds though, so you'd probably be ok

Cheers. Hmm but it's 27 degrees, not sure whether to risk the drive.

[Yossarian]

Wondering whether to try to tack a visit to Tintagel onto a trip to the SW in the next month or two. I’m assuming calm seas and generally fine weather are essential. Or am I being wildly overoptimistic re a visit in the autumn? Inland Dartmoor granite would be a reasonable backup plan I suppose...

[SA Chris]

Where exactly are you going to be based?

[Duma]

It's a long way from Ansteys, the roads don't make it convenient to "tack on", but then you Londoners are pretty happy with a lot of driving...

If the tides right you don't need really calm seas

[Yossarian]

We’re going to be in Dawlish, though also thinking about a trad trip to Sennen / Bosigran later in the year. It looks like about 90 mins from the former. Considering it takes me nearly an hour to drive to the wall, that’s really not too painful...

[Ged]

It's a good 2 hours from Dawlish. Maybe more. Calm seas are nice, but as others said a low tide will do, unless it's really rough. In which case there's not much of a back up plan round there.

More locally, hopes nose and torcross offer some good stuff.

[kingholmesy]

I was there on Tuesday and it was good conditions. Reckon you’ll be alright for a month or two, although apparently it doesn’t get much sun in winter.

It’s a mission from Dawlish though.  There’s other stuff nearer.  I’ve not been, but Torcross sounds good.

[Yossarian]

Thanks guys. Sounds like it’s a better plan to make it part of a specific Cornish mission. Purple Haze does look amazing. So does the trad, but just looking at pictures of Il Duce shits me up...

[kingholmesy]

  Tintagel High Cliff is pretty full-on!  Other (slightly more chilled out) crags do exist ...

[Ged]

Yeah tintagel bouldering and getting on il duce are very, very, very different days out!

[Adam Lincoln]

Calling in here on way back up North tomorrow.

Is the parking suitable for a large motorhome? Any height restrictions?

Is there a newer place to get a topo now?

When can you climb either side of tides?

[BrutusTheBear]

If there is space on Atlantic Road you can park for free and would be OK for a motor home.  Otherwise you'll have to use one of the pay car parks.
Enough info on UKC to work out what's what, plus there will most likely be someone there who knows.
There's some climbing available during most tides but for the main boulder an hour or two around high will be no good (depending on size of tide and swell).
It's all a bit moot though... wet weather!

[Adam Lincoln]

Thanks Brutus. Looking ok for tomorrow though. Wet in Newquay today.

Does it seep?

[turnipturned]

It does a little bit, but it does get wet every day, so shouldn't be a problem. I guess it just needs a decent window between tides to dry at this time of year.

[BrutusTheBear]

Tomorrow will be reet.  Good west breeze will dry it all out.

[shurt]

There's decent photo topos in Boulder Britain if you've got it

[Adam Lincoln]

There's decent photo topos in Boulder Britain if you've got it

Not with me sadly

[ben]

Drop me a pm and I can send you some topo pics from BB ?

[Adam Lincoln]

Thanks Ben, but Dan sorted me out last night. Appreciate offer though!