[edshakey]

A Very Secret Slab

Went here on Sunday, having tried a couple weekends ago but walked in sans pads after it tipped it down on the drive over. It looked cracking, so came back when it was fortunately dry. Sure enough, it was cracking! Really glad I spotted your post here, would thoroughly recommend it to other slab fans.

Thoughts:

- Fiend's directions are pretty spot on, my only mistake first time round was underestimating 300m on the edge so dropped down too soon. When it says
 

At this point you should be directly opposite a strange silo in a clearing to the left

You really need to be here. The silo is white and slightly in the distance, but easy enough to spot once you actually walk far enough. And to confirm that, the top of the slab is visible from the edge of the edge, so don't drop down if you can see it.

- My weigh in on the grades would be that PP and PL are maybe a touch easier? Not got bags of experience but they took me less time than I was expecting. Didn't manage to get up PSD in the limited time I had, but it's definitely a significant step up from the other two.

- Use the parking Fiend suggested. I tried to be sneaky and park at the start of Hassocks Lane in a convenient layby and returned to this on my windscreen



It's preferable to a rant from a self-important twat, so I'll take it and be on my way  the other parking is a similar distance, just muddier, but that's far from the end of the world. On the other hand, if souvenirs is what you're looking for, then I whole heartedly recommend it!

- All in all, great place if you know exactly what you're after (it really is the only bit of rock there that looks worth climbing). Definitely get over there if you're tempted, not least because of the great job that's been done to clean it, looks nothing like the dirty mess in the photo on ukc.

[Fiend]

Glad it's held up 

[comPiler]

Steps forward, steps back.

A long overdue update that ends up not dissimilar to previous updates?? I've been clawing my way back into climbing over the last couple of months. Easy trad, easy sport, initially easy bouldering, testing my injuries, seeing what they could cope with, testing my confidence and fitness, seeing that they were entirely absent, so working back into roped climbing especially slowly - the new Moelwynion guide has helped a lot with that.

Bouldering seemed to progress better, with my golfer's elbow and LCL strain coping well, and a recent background of board training giving me some strength regains. So naturally and inevitably, I started to try hard and push myself, and naturally and inevitably my recent tennis elbow flared up to the point of being notably injured and requiring a lot of care and restraint again.

So 2-3 weeks of respite and normality, then back to the usual bullshit. I'm starting to realise how crippling inevitable this is when you're too heavy, too old, and don't have the essential pre-climbing background of athletic/fitness activities - and don't have enough self-discipline to bumble along when you're fed up of bumbling along. At least I'm down to one inhibitive injury rather than two or three, but it's still as frustrating as ever.  Of course I'm trying to find ways to work around this, and trying to find options to keep inspired and keep trying to regain back to a normal level...

Things that are OFF the cards: Classic mainstream crags where I've done all the easier routes and only have things that are too hard for me left / board training / excessive bouldering / redpointing / grit because it's too warm obviously.

Plan Bs...

• More sea-cliff mini-adventures: especially Porth Dafrach / Range / Llyn (just the gentle bits!) / Trinity House Walls / Thunderbird Zawn ...and a long weekend at Ynys Lochtan??
• More hidden gem cragging: especially smaller Duddon areas like Crag Band / Tongue House / Gaitkins / Little Stand / Brandy Crag / Buck Crag....and some more Moelwyns of course.
• More conjuring up similarly inspired climbing partners out of thin air 😂😆ðŸ˜�😞☹
• More indoor leading / falling practise
• More indoor stamina circuits
• Maybe a bit of Welsh slab / crack bouldering
• Maybe some steadier sport at venues I haven't climbed out yet...
• Stretching, because I've been neglecting that.
• Boring rehab, as always....
• Lancs quarries for local stuff of course!

Anyway have some photos of some trad and some videos of some bouldering:

Source: Steps forward, steps back.

[comPiler]

The Beginning Of The End.

 

I can point to an exact time and place when I realised my climbing career was coming to an end. 

It was mid-evening last summer, 10 or 11 months ago, and it was walking back along the grassy path that provides a 10 minute flat gentle stroll between The Range sea-cliffs and the carpark. The Range - and Porth Dafrach - had been as delightfully fun and enjoyable as ever, the quintessential Type 1 pleasures of crenellated zawns and headlands, undulating and intriguing rock, quirky and characterful lines. I had been less fun and enjoyable, as I'd started to run out of soft-touches to ledge-shuffle my way up, and not only had I backed off a few alluring routes, I'd started to run out of inspiration too, it felt like perhaps my passion there was waning...

I was with my friend S. S and I share a few things in common - a passion for interesting mini-adventures (he'd come up to climb after being inspired by "the dog stake"), a fair amount of diligence and attention to detail placing gear in such situations, and a puerile and vulgar sense of humour that usually results in a contest for how many cocks we can finger draw on each other's cars. And that's where the similarities abruptly end...S is very tall, lean, young, strong, fit (climbing and cv-wise), able-legged, constantly motivated and stoic about travelling around, seemingly unhindered by depression, sociable and affable and part of a vibrant climbing scene. All things I wish I was (well I could live without the "very tall" bit...), most of them out of my reach without vascular surgery / lobotomy / time machine. 

The point is, we were chatting about routes and areas and climbs I'd done and been inspired by, and climbs he was going to do and was inspired by, and it became very obvious that he was on an exciting upwards trajectory through climbs, crags, challenges and exploration.... ... .. And I was winding down. I became acutely aware that in my main passion of trad cragging and sea-cliffs, whilst I had some prominent and deep-seated inspirations left, both minor and major, I was gradually working my way through those that were feasible, and was starting to run low on routes, crags, and determination for all the faff that comes with it - partners, conditions, travelling, uncertainties, intimidation, constantly trying to be on mental and physical form....

This feeling came pretty much out of nowhere - on a trip that was specifically about following inspirations and passions - and blindsided me. I can't recall feeling like that about climbing before. Climbing, for all it's internal and external difficulties, is an incredibly positive experience for me in a wide variety of ways (maybe that's why those difficulties are so frustrating, because they're inhibiting that positivity). To feel I was "running out" of the most important aspect of it for me was bewildering and felt like it was untethering me from myself. 

What the fuck was I going to do after the next few challenges?? Where was it all going?? Why would I be climbing in a few years time?? If I'm winding down, what is the point in it all??

But.... Remember that bit about "incredibly positive experience in a wide variety of ways"?? It's genuine and that passion isn't easily quenched. So my mind started wondering and wandering onto other possibilities and what could keep me going. As well as constantly trying to explore around (and "tick" new crags instead of routes, all over the UK - although this is a desire that is constantly hampered by the fairly fruitless struggle to find like-minded partners), I came up with a couple of options: 

Firstly taking a step back and focusing more on sport climbing and training and the physical side - relaxing into the logistical and psychological calmness of that approach, and hopefully occasionally springing out to do some awesome trad with the confidence from having a larger physical buffer (my buffer then was the size of a midge's foreskin, now it's actually inverted). 

Secondly also taking a step back and focusing on the simultaneously exploratory, challenging, aesthetic and technical delights of bouldering in the UK (and elsewhere). Particularly the endless and endlessly varied Welsh bouldering which has consistently inspired me in the last few years.

So there I had it. There were options, there were inspirations, I would still keep climbing, I'd just change the focus a bit, and see how a fresh approach - particularly easing off on the mental and emotional challenges of pushing my trad climbing, and instead relishing in the physical challenges of pushing bouldering, sport, and training.

...

..

.

A couple of months after this - whilst starting to do a bit more bouldering as my trad confidence had remained shaky during the rest of the summer - I pushed too hard in the wrong conditions and injured my left elbow.

Since then - concurrent with my idea to reassure myself and reignite my passion by focusing a bit more on the physical side of climbing - I've been near constantly injured (sometimes, like the LCL, without even pushing myself), for the last 8 months.

.

..

...

Source: The Beginning Of The End.

[comPiler]

Diary of DOG.

Hello I am Nunu aka Noodles, Mari and Terry's 12 year old husky-alsatian cross. I like pulling on the lead all the way to the crag, sleeping at  the crag on anyone's down jacket, begging for food, trying to steal  people's lunches, and then pulling on the lead all the way back from the  crag. Anyway "Fiend" (who is clearly quite daft) somehow volunteered to dogsit me whilst M and T were  off galivanting so I write guest dog guest blog to tell everyone  about grand adventures.

Day 1 - Talfarach, Llanbedrog, Gesail

WHY YOU DOGNAPPING ME IN SMOL CAR WITH TECHNOS??

Doesn't  seem right. Where's the big van? Why don't I have bouldering mats  toppling onto my head at any slight bump? Where are we going?

Oh okay through a farm with really rude dogs who do the Big Barks and snap at me and have no manners and fuck off.

What now tied under a boulder in the shade no I want to be in the sun and frying alive. Where you going?? What is "recce offwidth with horrible landing"?? Doesn't sound like dog treats to me.

SRSLY NOT SURE ABOUT THIS.

Oh  okay you gave me smol bit of egg that rolled into crack in the rock and  now I can spend 15 minutes trying to lick it out this might be okay.

Not convinced by broccoli. Would prefer your dinner.

Day 2 - Porth Howel, Carreg Lefain

I AM BIG BRAVE ADVENTURE DOG, I DON'T CARE ABOUT HORIZONTAL RAIN.

I  am husky x alsatian I bite terrorists hunt down trolls and yeti and  have impenetrable fur so yes rain lets go down to the crag even if I  have to be pushed back up that awful gravel gully 2 paws up 3 paws down.

Also great recceing skills at the second crag well done at least I can still pull on the lead.

Day 3 - Porth Dafrach, Benllech

YES I AM GOING TO YELP AND SQUEAK FOR NO APPARENT REASON UNTIL YOU PUT YOUR JACKET BACK DOWN FOR ME.

I  mean what do you expect. The Range area is lovely as you said and you  gave me biscuits and Emyr gave me a bit of bread crust but I have to  fuss about something and the jacket is very nice thank you it just needs  extra fur to replace the down.

DEAD ROTTING SEAL, I WANT DEAD ROTTING SEAL.

Mmmmokay  biscuits are fine breadcrusts are fine but really as a husky I live on  dead rotting seal. Important diet, very nutritious. Will sulk a lot if I  don't get rotting seal. Just watch me.


Day 4 - Porth Ceiriad, Porth Howel

YES  LET ME OFF LEAD ON THIS GIANT BEACH AND A I PROMISE I WON'T RUN MILES  BACK TO JOIN IN A KID'S FOOTBALL GAME AND GET SHOUTED AT. PROMISE  PROMISE THXBYETHEN.

Okay that was a great promise. Worked well.  Oh now we're in a quiet, safe corner with a dog who I just said hello to  and wanted to play with, yes let me off again. Okay I will just stand  here and do nothing now. Nunu reasonz.

GOATS, I WANT GOATS

Back  here again seriously why come on. Okay you had to carry me over bad  steps to the rock ramp but why. Ah bouldering. Yes you're close to that  project, well done but GOATS now I can bark like a fucking lunatic at  goats because you needed the distraction P.S. GOATS.

Day 5 - Carreg Lefain

YAAAY RAFE'S TUPPERWARE LUNCH BOX IS THE CHALLENGE I WANTED.

I'm  big brain husky x alsatian, I need serious thinking challenges.  Stealing water bottles too easy. Creating n-dimensional cat's cradle of  long lead too easy. Tupperware good brain stimulation. Rafe said lunch  had lots of chilli. No problem. More brain stimulation.

 

Day 6 - Penmaen Head Trench Wall

BEST  IDEA IS TO GET TANGLED WITH DAVE LYON'S DOG MILO, TREAD ON HIM WHEN WE  FALL OVER, THEN EVERYONE CAN SNAP AND SNARL. YES GOOD PLAN.

Okay  all that was too exciting, maybe I need my breakfast now which I never  eat at breakfast time. Even better if you have to go up this vertical  steps back to the car to get it. Much fun. Then I can guzzle whole lot  and still try to steal your lunch. I have best plans.

Day 7 - Porth Howel

FOR FUCK'S SAKE NOT THIS GRAVEL SCRAMBLE AGAIN.

You better have a plan to get me back up seriously. I might need to get  goats again. Also 3 bouldering mats good luck with that I'm a big brave  adventure dog not a porter.

ROTTING SEAGULL, I WANT ROTTING SEAGULL.

Not  as good as seal but since Hosey said this cove is completely enclosed  and secure and dog-friendly, I'm allowed to hunt out every rotting  seagull carcass right?? Yum.

Day 8 - Cwm Orthin

OKAY THIS IS NICE TO I'M GOING TO PULL ON THE LEAD EXTRA MORE.

Ooohhh,  I know this place. Close to home, very relaxed, soothing. Good time to  pull on the lead and try to chase sheep even though they'd beat me up.  But I'm not scared. Big brave adventure dog.

Still not convinced by broccoli. Maybe Hula Hoops instead.

Many sleeps and dream of goats.

Source: Diary of DOG.

[Wellsy]

That's a bloody handsome dog!

[Fiend]

She's a lady!! (And an idiot, albeit a lovable one)

[Will Hunt]

Diary of DOG.
YES  LET ME OFF LEAD ON THIS GIANT BEACH AND A I PROMISE I WON'T RUN MILES  BACK TO JOIN IN A KID'S FOOTBALL GAME AND GET SHOUTED AT. PROMISE  PROMISE THXBYETHEN.

The mental image of Fiend, bedecked in his camo shorts and neon vest, running along the beach screaming "NUNU! NUNU! JESUS CHRIST, NUNU! NUUUUUNUUUUUU!" has set me up for a fine day.

[Fiend]

  ^^^ 90% accurate apart from they were pale grey-green shorts!!

Then after the dad shouted at her and she ran back towards me, she ran right past me, out to sea, to go play with another dog in the waves, wouldn't come back from that, I chased her again and had to grab her by the scruff of the neck, cue much squeaking. What a daftie.

[Wellsy]

She's a lady!! (And an idiot, albeit a lovable one)

Ladies can be handsome too 

[comPiler]

Another Fallow Year

 
"It's okay", said the ginger beastlette, "sometimes you just need to have a fallow year. Take a step back from pushing yourself, from doing major challenges, from aiming for strong inspirations. Let yourself recover, let the spirit and psyche regrow. It's what serious climbers and actual athletes would do."

And she was right.

I did have to take a step back due to physical and mental health issues. A step away from challenges and inspirations and exciting destinations. A fallow spring and summer - when the weather was hot and everyone was in the shady mountains, I was grumping away at the climbing wall, when the weather was generally nice and people were exploring crags all over, I was day-tripping to grotty sport bollox to masochist myself redpointing. The amount of big ticks that got away was the only big number around, but it was all I could cope with - and I was keeping my activity levels and climbing strength up. God redpointing is bollox, but it does keep you moving and pulling hard.

So come autumn, inhibitive issues had alleviated a bit, and my body was ready to keep climbing, the physical GAINZ from the redpointing bollox paid off, and I had as good a big inspiration / major challenge trad autumn as I ever had (...for the last time, it seems...). So the fallow period did indeed work.

...

The thing is, this was 2018, not 2022. 2022 is another fallow year, but it's a very different fallow year.

2018 was about digestive issues, occasional debilitating nausea bouts, the fragility that left me with (go on a camping trip to the north west with those looming over me?? nope...), and the associated vagal depression - the latter having a clear cause and not being too overwhelming. The rest of my body was holding up okay (including a complete lack of decade-long golfer's elbow that cleared up within a week of the reflexologist I was seeing for my digestion finding "a strong pressure point reaction indicating upper left limb issues") and my physical ability to dick around on the rock in between dangling off bolts was as good as it's been post-DVTs/post-weight-gain. Once the bouts became more sporadic and the increased citalopram and CBT kicked in, I could put that into action.

2022 the digestive issues are not an issue. The perma-injury is, and the associated cumulative depression from that combining with age, perma-heaviness, old mental health issues and new personal issues. Full golfer's elbow from late September 2021 to <checks date> late November 2022 (and counting...) with only a brief respite in March/April, plus LCL injury from December 2021 to March 2022, plus tennis elbows in February/March then May 2022 has meant I've had only the slightest chance to get a meagre period of near-normal climbing strength (March/April), and no chance whatsoever of getting any fitness nor confidence. 

This fallow year is not only about taking a step back from pushing myself, from major challenges, from strong inspirations, it's about taking a step back from the positive physical side I sought solace in in 2018, the side that enabled me to keep going and come out with my climbing ability intact. In fact it's about taking a step back from most of the positivity in climbing in general.... I came out of 2018 with my physical ability probably slightly improved, and maybe my confidence from getting through the fallow year. I'm going to come out of 2022 with almost everything about my climbing worsened, apart from possibly flexibility, which I have managed to "train" a little bit, by not avoiding stretching quite as much as before! Maybe there will also be some benefits to the groundwork I've been forced to do about mental health issues, but that won't be evident yet.

This is a fallow year from which nothing is going to regrow in the foreseeable future...

...

I said a step back from most of the positivity in climbing. Not all. There have been a few very brief moments of strong inspiration rather than treading water waiting and hoping for it all to pass. This was one, by random chance something that was interesting in it's obscurity and challenging in a way which mostly bypassed my injury.

An interesting process and the name just came to me.

Source: Another Fallow Year

[comPiler]

Thinning the wedge??

I posted a year about about the general increase in retro-bolting of good protectable trad routes in various areas across the UK. It seems my concerns were more prescient than alarmist: On my only two (due to injury) visits to The Ormes this year, the amount of retro-bolting seems to be accelerating rather than being curtailed. This means that when I turned up to rehab my elbow on some minor but enjoyable E1/2s on the usual pleasant Pen Trwyn rock, I found them to have been fully retro-bolted and turned into sport routes. I led them on trad anyway (which, despite the all-too-common false arguments to the contrary, definitely alters / spoils the experience, especially if it was on routes closer to the climber's limit), and still managed to enjoy good protectable trad despite the very unwelcome bolting situation. See below for more details.

There has been some online discussion, some discussion at the BMC North Wales Area Meet, and some extra discussion between interested parties about this issue. I've had some closer discussion with concerned friends and whilst there is some agreement that the this is an entirely undesirable and negative situation that is detrimental to both British trad climbing and the sport / trad balance in historically "mixed" venues, what to actually DO about this is another question - one that is sadly not solved merely by ranting.

So I've had a think and come up with a few ideas of how to TRY to reverse the trend a bit. As with Ken Canute (RIP), this is probably still trying to stop the ceaseless tide, but maybe it's worth trying. These are only my own ideas, perhaps naive and ill-formed, but they could be a starting point...

Practical actions:

1. Climb the minor but enjoyable trad routes in these venues NOW.

Partly don't keep putting them off because "I've got bigger plans and those routes will always been there for a quick hit / casual day". Because apparently they won't... And partly because the "this route was neglected and was rarely climbed as trad" reason is seemingly still used to "justify" retrobolting. So if the routes are more obviously climbed and not neglected, that reason becomes more invalid.

2. If suitable, do some careful cleaning (such as access allows).

This obviously depends on what is permissible and sensible. But if a route is relatively neglected and has become vegetated, this might put people off (even if it's still perfectly climbable). A light trim and spruce up can encourage people to get on it, and further reduce the "unpopular trad" argument.

3. If suitable, replace old fixed gear like-for-like.

Similar to above, depending on what is permissible and sensible. Old and rotting fixed gear that might need to be replaced somehow seems to transmogrify into yet another spurious "justification" for retro-bolting - not just replacing the fixed gear (or even just checking if it's needed at all!!), but bolting the whole route up because it had an old bolt or two pegs that needed replacing. This could be stopped before it started by replacing JUST the essential old fixed gear yourself (obviously having learnt the necessary skills and doing a safe job)

4. Publicise the quality of  these trad routes.

Following and of the above actions - PROMOTE THE ROUTES. Get good photos. Assess the trad gear situation. Write up a good report. Suggest tweaks to grades and descriptions, correct anything that's misleadingly off-putting. Provide people with good information about good routes and encourage them to go and climb them. If enough people do, it could show the quality of the trad enough to dissuade retro-bolting.

5. Be supportive and respectful of bolt removal.

Hypothetically. If it were to happen.

High level involvement:

1. Discuss the situation in general, online and in real life. 

A lot of the retro-bolting seems to come from people doing it without consultation, without warning, without discussion. The modus operandi seems to be secrecy / minimal consultation and try to let it become the route's status quo before anyone notices and queries it. Conversely, highlighting the issues, posting about them online, talking with other climbers about them, and raising awareness can bring the retro-bolting out into the open, maybe dissuade people from doing it too readily, and maybe encourage more people to stand against it.

2. If you know anyone involved with retro-bolting, talk to them, express your perspective. 

Ask them to please avoid retro-bolting trad routes, especially without consultation. It might fall on deaf ears but enough calmly put requests might add up (and see 5. below).

3. Attend BMC Area Meets or at least check the minutes of the meetings to keep informed.

Despite relatively limited participation and the difficulty for non-locals to attend, these still seem to have some importance and often provide a formal forum to investigate these issues. Put up with the boring / hill-walking bits, put the effort in attend if you can, or keep up to date with the meeting minutes if you can't.

4. If there are any polls or consensus requests, vote in them and make your view heard. 

Similar to getting the issues out in the open, don't keep your views private where they're not able to have any influence. Take part in any situation or consultation where a yay or nay, or a hand raised, or a "I vote for..." post can add to the numbers. Anyone can do this and it could help.

5. Keep a balance and pick the right battles. 

A general disapproval of bolts and sport climbing is futile these days. It seems many people responsible for retro-bolting also do good work that doesn't spoilt trad routes. E.g. if they've also been involved with replacing bolts on established sport routes, replacing lower-offs or adding them where needed, replacing like-for-like fixed gear, putting up new sport routes - praise them for such, make it clear that all of that, without retro-bolting, is appreciated and valuable.

Grass roots encouragement:

1. Encourage people at relevant crags to get on trad routes and give them a go.

Share your knowledge, spread your enthusiasm. Give them ideas of what might be good and suitable. Overhear someone at at a mixed trad/sport sector saying "Oh I'm keen to do my first E1 but the ones here look a bit blank"?? Point them at what you know, reassure them the gear is okay. Overhear general qualms about trad?? Sing it's praises, explain how much great stuff there is to go at on trad.

2. Promote trad across social media and other forums.

Try to be a positive influence on people where trad - and where preserving trad - is concerned. Highlight all that is good about it, reassure people about anything that might be putting them off, provide information about easy ways into trad, and in general present it palatably and accessible as possible. Any post, any discussion where you can positively nudge people towards it, try to do so.

3. Try to answer any concerns / questions about trad that might be putting people off.

E.g. 

"It's dangerous" - there's a huge amount of well-protected routes where you can place gear more regularly than on a sport routes, so it's definitely not necessarily dangerous.

"It's scary" - fear is part of the challenge and can be tackled and learnt to be overcome.

"It takes too long to learn" - that partly depends on the climbers diligence and dedication, and people who are determined enough and really focus on the core principles of placing gear, ropework, and the overall safety system can pick it up quickly.

"It's too expensive to learn"  - formal trad instruction is expensive but it also opens up a vast array of excellent climbing all over the UK, and there's the option of informal coaching from clubs or other climbers.

"I don't know where to start"  - give this person a list of courses and outdoor instruction venues to contact!

"A trad rack is too expensive"  - thee are various ways around this including: hooking up with someone who has a rack, initially sharing a rack purchase with a friend, joining a climbing club, getting good advice about the bare minimum starting rack, etc.

...and if it's really all too much, suggest that top-roping trad routes in these areas might be better as a last resort rather than asking for them to be retro-bolted??

4. Try not to alienate people. Highlight the quality of trad whilst acknowledging the popularity of sport - and inform people about the large amount of sport available in many areas so they know there's often plenty to do without needing to support retro-bolting trad. Phrase the encouragement positively rather than judgementally.

5. Take people under your wing if you can. Be a mentor, be an informal guide, offer to take people out, be part of a climbing club. Pass down your experience and encourage people to develop the skills to do more trad and rely less on bolted routes (and maybe reduce the pressure to create more of them).

------

Recent-ish retro-bolting examples:

Tramstation Crag:

A very pleasant and accessible suntrap that would be a charming little trad venue in inclement weather or for a quick hit. The routes are short, some are pretty minor, but the rock and climbing are good as usual.

The Three Musketeers E1 5b *

This would make a lovely little first E1 for anyone who can place wires. Lots of wires. So many wires that I started running out of quickdraws. Very steady good tradding with nice hidden sharp flake holds.

D'Artagnan E1 5c *

Another pleasant wee route with an easier start and a trickier and nicely technical finish. This was protected in the classic and natural Ormes "hybrid" style of having a lone bolt on the only blank bit. It would have been obvious and sensible to replace this lone bolt instead of retro-bolting a good route, or actually just remove the upper bolt given there are micro-cam placements nearby.

(Not shown is The Catwalk Direct E2 5c * on the left of this wall. The route originally had plentiful trad gear to start, a couple of hybrid bolts to protect the crux, and then a weird traverse out right for unknown reasons. It seems entirely sensible to have a lower-off at the finish to get the natural direct line without the traverse. It would have also been sensible to replace the two old bolts, or even better replace them with a single bolt to give more of a committing feel, rather than fully retro-bolting.)

St Tudno's Upper

Just one of many of a good cluster of crags in Lighthouse Area with fine sea-views, easy access but an exposed feel, good rock, good climbing, and in theory a good sport / trad blend.

Rest And Be Thankful E2 5c **

A cracker of a route with more gear than you can place, although you still have to properly go for it on a typically committing but rewarding Ormes crux leading to good holds. Apparently there were two old pegs and a thread. These were clearly not needed, but what really wasn't needing was retrobolting.

Pile Driver E2 5b 

A good and photogenic line with some committing climbing away from the good gear low down. Maybe a bit unbalanced to be worth a star here but definitely would get one on Peaks / Yorkshire lime and still well worth doing, and keeping, as trad.

Thank You Johnny / Thank You Matt E2 5c **

Note: There is some confusion about this line. The bolter / retro-bolter claims it's a new sport route and not a retro-bolted version of TYJ, however it is listed on UKC as TYJ F6a+ "Now retro-bolted". Which does mean that any pro-retro-bolting arguments using UKC logbook ticks as a "popularity" "justification" for removing trad routes might be based on unreliable evidence.

Anyway what is clear is this is a good trad route with plentiful gear (fiddly in the main break but with a great shake-out there and easy gear just right) and a really nice techy rockover crux that shouldn't have been retro-bolted - and for that matter should have been done as trad if it is a new line.

And All Hell Broke Loose E2 5c *

Another good route with a stiff (but easier than it looks) start, a bit of boldness, then some delicacy, and a final thought-provoking crux with plentiful good small gear and a good rest to ponder it all. I found this one particularly satisfying even if it is a bit disjointed. The guide mentions a peg, it's clear this wasn't needed and neither was retro-bolting.

Hopefully this seemingly yearly post next year will be a lot more positive and celebratory??...

Source: Thinning the wedge??

[Potash]

 Specific and well placed lower offs for trad routes on mixed trad/sport crags?

Obviously (I hope) not bolted loweroffs at Gogarth though.

Whilst having bolt free places like Gogarth Maincliff is a hill I'm willing to die on I think bolting loweroffs can really facilitate people getting in the miles on trad routes.

This would be a good first step in places like Cheedale and Dovedale where you can climb the sport routes and lower off but the trad requires a hideous top out.

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks Matt, great post as always.

Grass roots #4 Try not to alienate people. 

[Fiend]

Thank you mrjr. This came about from talking to a friend who was quite furious about these retro-bolts, and almost as ranty as me - but it got me thinking about how to try to tackle the issue more practically and pro-actively. And part of that is trying to work with the primarily-sport-climbers rather than against them. Don't slag them off for their choice but provide encouragement to try trad, to realise the importance of a trad-sport balance, to point out whatever sport is available so they know they have options.

Potash  - I think that is a slightly separate issue to the overall retro-bolting issue (hence me not writing about it), BUT I also agree it's an important issue to consider that could be potentially useful. I personally have less objections to bolted lower-offs on trad than other pro-balance advocates, especially in areas you've mentioned!

[comPiler]

Five Favourites From 2022

Best Albums of 2022:

(Shamelessly copied from my UKB post)

A neat 5 slices of sonic excellence for you:

Tripped - Unboxed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D-ILHQi_kQ&list=PLR8jjdYYmdaXSYiQRxoYI0c9Izpl1-bAM
(full playlist)
https://prspctrecordings.bandcamp.com/album/unboxed

Prspct dropping Album Of The Year for the 3rd year in a row, but what do you expect from one of the world's premier electronic dance music labels?? Unboxed is an absolute rollercoaster of energetic techno themes from the euphoric to the relentless and back again, but what really make it stands out is how Tripped focuses on a refreshing directness of dance music - there is a bare minimum of the "endless big cheesy breakdown into a predictable drop of empty beats" cliches here. Instead it's all about driving and evolving beats that are constantly layered with atmospheric sounds - danceable and listenable at the same time.


Presha - Rats Infest 1 / 2 / 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR1FYauQp0k&list=PLRPUUEqmciasnfYyYEwXy3idJ9pvAePGw

(full playlists)
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-1
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-2
https://presha.bandcamp.com/album/rats-infest-3

Samurai Records is another label that can do no wrong, and following last year's highlight of the boss's Rats EP, this is followed up with a seething swarm of remixes that over 2 EPs and a single makes for a superb album across a broad spectrum of proper modern jungle (and bonus breaks on #3). It's hard to resist the cliche of "deep, dark, and deadly", but these tracks are undeniably that, with the usual Samurai creative hallmarks.

Mares Of Thrace - The Exile

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGu5B-JN5b4&list=OLAK5uy_kKTs5FDtbFY-Y80IJXlH9BWwz_6CQqBcI&index=1
(full playlist)
https://maresofthrace.bandcamp.com/album/the-exile

Mares are back after a long hiatus and whilst they're now one Mare and one Stallion, the musical quality of their epic, sexy, groovy, bluesy, quirky dissonant extreme metal blend is as good as it ever was. Lovely.


Samurai - Hannya II

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMSDaEcH5HY&list=PLRPUUEqmciauOgil8nobW2pp6IzgH7ckz
(full playlist)
https://samuraimusic.bandcamp.com/album/samurai-hannya-ii

If the Rats Infest EPs were a broad spectrum of proper modern jungle, Samurai's second Hannya compilation is the FULL spectrum. For a music genre that could seem dated after near 30 years, the future-looking freshness here is a captivating reassurance. From methodical technoid plodders from Mako, minimal tribalism from The Untouchables, serious industrial jungle presha from Presha, and proper fucking nightmare fuel from Artilect, there's a whole lot of quality to take in here.


Origin - Chaosmos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2kzewIKTKY
http://origin-chaosmos.com/ (pain in the arse but is available on digital somehow)

And Origin are back in action with an album that really caught my attention after getting a bit lost with their previous releases. This one is an absolute cracker that has all the brain-warping leadwork and frantic technicality of Origin at their best, but with a whole lot more variety and fun packed into one album, with black and hardcore influences swirling around along with some more traditional tracks. 
 

Source: Five Favourites From 2022

[comPiler]

It Shouldn't Come As A Surprise...

Warning: Contains amateur ramblings and speculation solely based on personal experience and various anecdotes and perceptions, with a complete lack of any research or scientific basis. Also casually uses the term neurodivergence to refer mostly to autistic spectrum divergence and includes relies on the likely assumption that mental health issues such as anxiety and depression are more prevalent therein. Don't like that slapdash approach?? Go read a proper article that might make an ounce of sense!!

It shouldn't come as a surprise...

...that there is a seemingly high correlation between dedicated climbers and neurodivergent people especially on the autistic spectrum (a multifaceted spectrum of various common traits radiating out from a mythical core of "normality", with people having a different profile depending on the prominence of those facets)?? Is it a truism that it's a weird activity for weird people (often in a good way)?? After all, we're designed to swing from trees (jugs) with ease, but what sort of person is designed to sprag quarks 50' above filed down RPs behind a loose flake??

One who is potentially drawn to a relatively atypical activity that is:

• All-consuming and captivating in a wide variety of ways
• Rewards intense focus and single-mindedness
• Is individual-focused rather than a team sport, and is often social on a small, tight-knit scale
• Has a wide variety of challenges to tackle and stimulation from those
• Is very much up to the individual how they approach it
• Can be both very organic and spiritual (locations, flow, beauty of the outdoors) and/or incredibly geeky and cognitive (training, planning, progression, gear)
• Can be very distracting from the mundanities of normal existence
• In short allows the climber to be completely obsessive, oblivious to normality, anti-social to the point of sullenness, devoid of conventional emotion, driven by numbers and tactics and other minutiae, etc etc. Or indeed rewards them for being so... What's not to like?!

Climbing is just a sport. Or just a lifestyle. Like many others. But I genuinely believe that those factors above are more prominent than in most activities, and also that climbing just has so much going on it, so many ways to engage and enjoy it, that make it a truly captivating activity. Spending day after day in the bitter cold trying to do two moves on micro-edges is climbing. Watching the sun set over the sea at the top of a new route of unknown rock with the smell of sea-gull shit being the only reference point is climbing. An-pow-cap wanking over Lattice clickbait is climbing (ish). Chatting to your mate and sharing a snack bar on a half-way ledge on a big multi-pitch is climbing. Jumping between resin blobs is climbing and trudging through the snow to stick to vertical slopers is climbing.

So it's captivating. It just needs a target to capture, a willing victim or unwitting prey... And with so many factors that are seemingly suitable for some form of neurodivergence, that's the best hunting grounds. Sometimes you get juicier, more prestigious prey. Maybe people like JD, JMcC, ET, DMcC etc seem to be the finer trophies on climbing's wall.

(At least, historically so. With the increase in comfortable consumerist climbing as the gym-style gateway into the sport (and the relatively simplicity of that), maybe the mainstream is taking over, with an increase in neurotypical participants. Ugh)

Completely normal activity. Nothing to see here.

It shouldn't come as a surprise...

...that I am one of those people. 

People sometimes ask why did I choose climbing.

The answer is: I didn't, IT chose ME. 

(Stupid fucking activity.)

I've been dedicated to climbing for over 20 years, and from the start, after having sampled and spurned many sports and activities, it just seemed right to me (somewhat incongruously with my athletic background of, errr, painting toy soldiers). I've seen it through thick and thin, highs and lows, illness and injury and injury and injury, I've battled a fair amount of feeling physical and mental unsuitable for it because it's still just seemed right. And I've always been inspired, always been determined, almost always loved it (and when I haven't it's due to inhibitions getting in the way). 

I've also had my own tastes and my own drives which are often an incongruous melting pot by climbing's already oddball standards. Most of those examples above and more (well apart from the Latticewanking, fuck that) have drawn me in, with a pretty personal and sometimes peculiar focus.

So no surprises. I am neurodivergent, and that is intrinsically linked to climbing choosing me, me being swallowed alive by it, and being digested to be at one with that activity. "High-functioning (-ish!!) aspergyers" (as it was described back then) personality with a tendency to depression and anxiety (I've done a lot of work in the past on the social/emotional/relational issues that are common and were very prevalent in my youth - I know, imagine what a knobhead I was back then. Still a work in progress of course). 

That's me. It's not something I want to write about, nor broadcast publicly. With a bit of a, ummm, particular personality already, I can already be a bit of a target, and I don't want to me more of one. But equally I don't want to be hidden away when being open about these things could be beneficial to me, and even to people around me. In recent years - more specifically this year - the depression and anxiety and other old issues that have been snapping at my heels have caught me up as injury and age and personal issues have slowed me down, and.....they kinda nip hard. And whilst I'm tackling that myself, I'm also needing help and support, so I've had to take the risk, make myself vulnerable and open up. 

I'm writing this because I want to clear it up. And for any people who are wondering "Yeah right why is that belligerent sod Chief Inspector Twat Of The Ethics Police, amateur chossaneer and relentless contrarian coming across as such a needy, fragile fanny these days??" - now you know. Because it's all part of that same personality, all sides of the same coin (and indeed the Chief Twat is all part of the coin of being passionate about climbing). Loving grovelling up silty chimneys on Red Wall // being out looking at the most beautiful scenery with an empty heart because I don't understand what it all means - it's all part of it; Walking 2 hours with 2 pads and 2 gammy legs to do the best hand crack boulder problem in the UK // pacing around my living room at 8am in the morning because I'm frantic about indecision on going to Ratho in a team of 3 - it's all part of it.  And this bewildering and challenging melting pot of personality traits is something I perceive as fairly common, whether people need to admit it or not. I've had to...and hope it works out.

Source: It Shouldn't Come As A Surprise...

[slab_happy]

Fistbump of neurodivergent solidarity!

[Duncan campbell]

From one neuro-divergent climber to another, Fiend, I truly hope you succeed in continuing your journey through this world and on your mental health path.

I for one, love reading your posts on UKB, irrespective of whether I agree with them. Your witty and banterous typings always brighten up my day.

Be kind to yourself 

[scragrock]

Well said Duncan


 

[Wellsy]

Yeah great post. Big respect!

[sxrxg]

Really enjoyed this post. Whilst I have no diagnosis I have always been a bit of an outsider which is why climbing seemed to become the lifestyle (note that it at no point was it a sport...) for me. There are still the weirdos out there climbing and doing there own thing just with increased participation you seem to bump into them less often, this is a shame as this was one of the things I really enjoyed about the wall, huts and other social climbing settings.

[rginns]

Great blog Fiend, plenty in there to think about for many of us 

[comPiler]

Catching up on much bouldering.

Yeah this is a bit overdue. Blanket lockdowns irrespective of transmission risk, recovering from previous injury, winter weather, what-fucking-ever. It's spring now, the Lime Caller set a new benchmark of farcically bad lime calls with a call just before blizzards hit the Peak and then it went back to crisp grit connies. The punishment being that May started with a monsoon oh well. So here's a catch up on stuff I fitted in here and there. Esoteric gems ahoy!!

Grit Oddities 2 - Yorkshire

A right smorgasbord of all sorts! Roadside highballing, moorland pebble-pulling, woodland crimping, urban roofs... And some real personal challenges.

Photo Finish 7A (7A+?)

Something that inspired me a couple of years ago and turned into a proper seige... It got right into my brain and the middle couple of sessions had me leaving thinking "fuck this" (trying to move my left hand whilst holding the high gaston had me wanting to headbutt the crag and chew the pads in frustration), only to return again despite myself... And well, yeah, it is ace overall.

For Locals Only 7A+ (7A(!)?)

Local exercise and all... Actually this should be on *everyone's* wishlist (especially after I thoroughly cleaned it on ab on a previous visit). Brilliant fingery pop to a jug, then a life-affirming highball finish - that had me shaking with adrenaline for many minutes! A 10 second walk-in means it's easy to lug pads in, and then there's the project wall just right...

Pochette Surprise 6C (6C+/7A?)

This had been on my radar for a while, and I finally braved the alpine approach fucked legs and my stack of pads, and of course it was totally worth it - it has an all out pebble move for God's sake! I had to summon a lot of faith and my face at the end says it all.

Pocket Pull Pond 6C

Terrible name for a really cool problem. Although the pond over the top was solid ice which was quite fun. A rather scenic spot but prone to returning to nature at quiet a sprint, hence any highballing plans were abandoned in favour of this cool face climb which took all my determination to stay adhered to the middle crimps!

Stone Love 6A/6B (6A+?)

An unknownchoss.com special! Is it downgrading Will Hunt or upgrading dunnyg?? Who cares, it's actually a pretty neat little problem despite the coarse and "newish" rock. Definitely worth a detour from the honeypots for.

Galling Groove 6C+ (6B+/C?)

A mini-gem which just about transcends it's fairly grotty adjacent rock with a neat line, neat height, and neat moves. Go there on a nice day.

Busta Groove V5 (V6 w/o kneepad?)

A pro-tip from Jordan that this can dry quick despite it's woodland location, but this one is Nao's problem. Just plain good fun. I couldn't the knee to work enough to reach the top direct so hard to rely on a toe-hook - rare for me and quite satisfying.

Grit Oddities 2 - Peak

Aretes? Aretes!

Geisterspiel 7A

One of Mark20's nu-skool classics at Rivelin Quarries - and on the same day someone was working his nu-skool classic E7 at the far left too! I've had some fun days with M20 - he wears ron hills, has a pet dego, and likes a bit of black metal. I was totally psyched to do this problem as it is legitimately brilliant, as good as any grit arete despite the lack of top-out. Great compression moves and a cheeky toe-scum for me to finish. 

James' Arete 6C (6B+?)

Another new addition, not sure of the actual name! With all of the base-of-crag bouldering gems scattered along it, I was speculating that Rivelin Quarry now has a better circuit than Bas Cuvier. Except less pof, quieter vibes, less hordes of bellends, etc....

Sambucus 6C (6C+?)

King lines come to Woolley Edge! An undeniable classic of esclating difficulty and a committing move to a clean top-out.

Lessons In Depth 7B (7A)

Grade change due to using different beta from Mike Adam's first ascent on every single move! Then again if you're a 6 foot 8C climber you might not be looking for 7A vs 7B beta, even if you could tell the difference... Despite it's proximity to the mud slope, this is another great problem with flowing and involved movement.

Gazelle 7A+ (6C/+?)

The problem I initially went to do and left me standing around wondering "oh, what next?". Another good line despite the grading nonsense, slightly easier and not quite as fine as Sambucus, but makes a good triptych!

Pepper Mill V5

A rare visit to conventional pastures, although according to G, this gets relatively little attention, despite, of course, it being brilliant. It was bloody freezing in the wind, and having to wear wellies for the "Scotland+++" bog level walk-in, my feet went numb and didn't thaw out for 45 mins with the car heater on full.

Kappix 7A

A salvaged day, and indeed salvaged problem, when the Peak was snowbound and the frosting on the trees at Harthill was quite beautiful. We went to try Scrapheap Challenge - I built as best a tyre platform as I could and was trying the strict starting method. I lunged for the lip hold, spun off leftwards and missed the pads, so we moved them. A few more goes, I half caught the lip hold, long enough to swing rightwards and miss the pads on that side.... We moved onto Kappix which had a really cool move to stood up and I had to finish rightwards as I couldn't do the reach leftwards. Later video browsing showed people doing Scrapheap without that eliminate start and with about 30 tyres padding the landing instead of 6....

Baildon Bonanza

I've always liked Baildon for routes. Now I like it for bouldering too.

Who Are We... 7A+

The kingest of lines! Terrible name (bollox to dad rock), beautiful problem. It hadn't been on my radar as it's at the very upper fringes of my ability, but then I started playing around... And yes, it really is that good, especially with this more natural start and static finish (I loved my impromptu press off the groove to get my weight up). Celebrity spotting by DJ Perc and Jarvis Cocker!

The Baildon Stem 6C+

Done as a consolation prize after being unable to get near the rat crimp start of Quaint Groove, but fun in it's own right. Not sure about this foot in the chip malarkey, but this way seemed natural to me. 

The Mantel 7A (6C+?)

This was the catalyst for my Baildon bouldering. I'd always assumed it would be too hard and too thuggy for the short and heavy, actually it's just plain great fun. Once I worked out I could do it, it made my day.

Suggy's Wall 7A

It took quite a few visits to get on this when it's not too hot (i.e. above 0'C for this problem!!) or seeping. A lovely bit of wall with some very small crimps on the crux and an E1 5b finish that has never seen E4 6b in it's life!!

The Oik SS 6C+ (6C?)

Strong line, soft grade - I'd have flashed it if I'd cleaned the slightly scrittly finger ramp properly. A nice problem from the sitter or the stand, also my ex-girlfriend had cats she'd nicknamed "greedy wee oiks", so I'm fond of the name.

Peak Slabs In The Woods Triptych

A fun concept to explore: Cool slabs hidden on boulders in the woods below main crags!

Sunset Crack 7A (6C/+?)

Terrible name, brilliant problem. Great location, great rock, gentle landing, a distinctive chickenhead feature to go for, continuous moves, and lots of little features to work out a sequence on. One of the best in the Peaks!

Yorkshire Farmer 6C+ (6C?)

This might have been put up by one of UKC's prime headpunting chodes, but it's still a great find. Crimpy! I also did the more direct version where you don't swerve onto the ramp at the last minute, also good and not much harder.

Dreamboat Direct 6C/7A (6C+?)

Not really a slab at all where it matters - more like a vertical wall on which you have to hold on really hard on some minging rounded, frictional holds. Hence struggling like balls on my first session and having to come back and cruise up it in much fresher conditions. Still a cool bit of rock in a nice location (but scarcely 100m below the main crag) and the spooky stand-up out of the starting pocket is slabby enough....

Clattering Stones Circuit:

Somewhere that I'd always wanted to visit, both due to the cool-sounding circuit but also a relatively easy drive from home. But it's the furthest West-most grit in Yorkshire on a North-facing slope and the amount of times I've driven up out of Nelson into swirling mizzle and CLART and had to continue on to Scout Hut or Baildon or wherever... Finally got there in a fine dry period with a forecast of fog lifting to sunshine, well it didn't but the rock was bone dry and it was a great day.

Linea Negra 6C+

The first bit of rock that appealed to me, with a lovely selection of subtle features in an equally subtle scoop. Unfortunately it turns out that the obvious method is to crank past most of it, thus getting it done pretty quickly. If you're at this boulder for a while, trying to work out every possible method on this problem would be fun.

Fontanelles 6C+

A very attractive wall with climbing to match. A bit tricker for the short as I couldn't do the "reach off good left sidepull to high right edge" method, and had to combine a cheeky toe hook with a terrible smear for the right hand for alternate beta.

Androsterone 7A

The highlight of the day! Not only a technical delight with full usage of the toe-catch and thoughtful hand sequences, but a real fight trusting the distant left foot and reaching the top. I felt satisfied and my fingers felt worked after this.

Morning Sickness static 6C (6C+?)

I tried the dyno. Fuck dynos. I'm short, heavy, and despite strongish legs, very slow and not springy. The static sequence, despite the guidebook nonsense, is at least as good - varied, technical, and precarious. Distinctly harder than LN and F for me, but if you were a few inches taller and could use either the first lip sloper properly, or the main lip sloper, it would be a lot easier.

Love Handles 6B+

This took a fair bit of scrittle brushing off the top. Cool line though, with switching laybacks.

-------

That's it for now. Maybe more of the same catching up soon-ish!

Source: Catching up on much bouldering.

[comPiler]

Moonboard? Manorboard!

 

Power-to-weight is a constant battle. Too little of the former, too much of the latter. The latter I can do very little about as the DVTs prevent easy CV exercise and the b0rked digestion (and healthier diet to try to alleviate it) simultaneously gives me lower energy without any weight reduction. I once asked an established climbing coach I met at the crag about the general issue, and the short answer was "It's fine to be really heavy, you just have to be really fucking strong too", and the disclaimer "The trick is to get strong without getting injured". I haven't booked a masterclass quite yet. 

But yes the former I can at least try to do something about and maybe I should try a bit harder instead of spinning the ledge shuffling and esoteric bouldering and quick easy redpoint plates. Actually, I have lost a couple of kilos this summer (a dozen to go...), and this is almost entirely due to some hefty days out combining ledge shuffling with inimical walking. One edge of this sword is a tiny improvement in fitness and lightness, the other edge is a severe blunting of any power. Hauling my carcass up to Dow for two 6A+ moves, or a full day trudging back and forth around The Range doesn't actually get you strong, who would have thought it?? And when the buffer between my sport / bloc ability and my trad desires often feels as thin as a midge's scrotum, there's something to heed there.

A while ago I realised how dire the situation was that I was a solid grade and a half below my redpointing at this time last year, despite not having the restrictive nonsense of a spring lockdown to crawl back from. By chance the revamped Awesome Stockport bouldering room has a vastly better selection of holds and problems on nice angles, the same terrible decor and ear-vomittingly awful dad rock soundtrack, AND a new Moonboard with wooden holds, which lured me in with promises of a convenient skin-friendly power top-up. 

Naturally I took to this like a cat to water, although admittedly it was as much an issue of the constant "so farcical it's gone beyond hilarious and back around into tediously unfunny" pseudo-grading, the common terrible setting by morons who should be blocked off the MB app, and the often entirely useless feet-follow-hands style which given the larger holds on the easier problems reduces most situations to neanderthal lurching between relative jugs whilst pretending that "finger strength" and "core tension" are not relevant things to be trained. But at least the app makes it vaguely easy to sift through all the dross that actually gets in the way of training to find the occasional sandbag gem that might actually get me stronger. 

After a few sessions moaning my way through the 40° steepness I didn't feel any weaker, so en route back to Gogarth for some Red Walls trough squirming I stopped off at Manor Crag which has always looked fairly aesthetic for limestone. Given the angle of the place I had initial hopes that it could be a good test to see if the Moonboard had given me any hint of a power top-up, but on first viewings I remembered this same angle is my definite anti-style and resigned myself to merely getting a workout failing on everything, and at least it's more scenic than the AWMB. 

But then this happened....

....which was quite a shock to me. I know, climber in "trains a bit on a steep board and then does okay on steep board-ish style climbs" shocker, hold the fucking press. Actually in terms of tackling challenges, this is one of my very best bouldering days out ever, it didn't even feel like a training day because it was over so quick. A few notes: Jawa I missed the flash simply because I forgot my planned sequence and where to bump my hand to. Patch's Crack I missed the flash because I didn't seat the hand jam right a couple of times. Cracked Roof I missed the flash because I didn't get my thumb fully in the jam first time - all very close things!! All very good fun too.

Anyway recently I went back on the Moonboard a couple of times, there's a Font """""6B+""""" that I've tried at least a few times each session for 6 sessions now. I'm almost close. Almost. 

Source: Moonboard? Manorboard!