....despite what people say, I *WILL* lose fitness and strength that quickly reading DMac's Make Or Break there is some acknowledgement of this: "It is well understood that training gains in muscles strength and endurance are reversible, and that the losses of tissue status begin within a few days of ceasing training" // "Climbers tend to underestimate the effect of even a week of de-training on your ability to absorb hard physical work"). So far so dull
I will try heavier gym work (with strict form!) sooner rather than later - will those benefit in general stimulation and re-strengthening the supporting muscles, rather than stressing the MCL?? Initially I've just been focused on what the physio suggested, i.e. working the MCL-stressing inwards motion in a very gentle way.
I've been on the Depot circuit boards a couple of times, just traversing along the bottom, and I've found having a large matrix of decent small footholds (not FFH) has made it very easy to avoid any twisting / dragging / outside edging, and haven't felt any pain traversing back and forth along the bottom (although a few times I've had to abort moves as I'm unsure about the motion). Getting back to pure "kicking steps" style trad would be idea :D
Thanks guys.Moose: good use of the word deleterious! I will check out the podcast. I have personally found that unlike some people (including a couple of people on here who mentioned they can often do a solitary fingerboard session in a week off and maintain form), I start to de-train pretty rapidly and conclusively - probably metabolism / weight / legs / lack of supporting CV fitness etc.
The TLDListen version is that doing nothing for weeks results in a significant loss of capability but even a small amount of training (15-20% of "normal") hugely mitigates / eliminates any deterioration, and the "little goes a long way" effect is greatest for old-timers whose level is more deeply engrained.
But going to Forwyn to climb on the left-hand end is akin to asking for burger & chips in a Michelin starred restaurant.
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