Leftovers from Dartmoor and Wye Valley Sport.28 August 2017, 10:04 pm
All photos ©®™ Mark Davies / Dark Mavis / Pylon Kunt 2016, 2017, ad infinitumLeprechaun, Irishman's Wall, Dartmoor
. Lovely wee spot that we visited as part of a hectic Dartmoor photoshoot weekend (IW, King's Tor, bivvy, Sheep's Tor, Great Links Tor (approx 200 mile walk-in), Myrtle Turtle Quarry), which turned out to be pretty satisfying as PK got some genuinely great photos for the book. This route above was a merry jaunt after battling on Non Metallic Silver to the left. Non Metallic Metals is a toy soldier painting technique which I particularly dislike as it's only good from set angles and it's usage is mostly driven by fashion and trends. I had to do the route regardless but made sure to huff about it.The Legend Of Pip, Haytor Quarry, Dartmoor
. I had to do this route because of my then landlady's whippet, Pip (apparently a bit fat for a whippet, I'm not so sure):
The route itself is a nice little solo, somewhat of a dodgy landing and committing off the deck, but fine quarried granite.Two Mules For Sister Sara, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley.
Woodcroft is a cataclysmic hole to rival the worst of Peak Lime quarries but scattered around the dire F6a-choss-infested walls, there are some fine micro-tiers of good rock and techy climbing despite the aesthetics. Rippled And Toned just left of that groove is a great compression arete.A Blast From The Past, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley.
More decent Horseshoe-esque gems. Saudi Air, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley.
And more.Don't Lower The Tone, Woodcroft Quarry, Wye Valley.
Tone already well lowered with shorts/stockings combos. PK described my style as "death metal bassist" which is possibly the nicest compliment I've ever had :). Pity this one didn't make it into the book as I rather like the
shameless grindr-profile flexing
errr I mean the balance of climbing and ivy and tension in the move (the latter being quite genuinely as it was thin and fierce and bloody satisfying even if I only stayed on with a blind toe-scrape mid-move).Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley.
I had far too many photoshoots at Sandbag-y-Gor and got increasingly disillusioned in the place. On the first visit it was okay including this tricky wee fucker which I think I knee-barred on.So Gross, Ban-y-Gor, Wye Valley.
The final visit to this hole and one which put me off South West climbing. This slice of bolted Brown & Whillans grimness was the only silver lining and another version of the grotty cleft furtling ended up as the surprise and subversive cover shot (I've already apologised to PK for any massive drops in sales).
One of these days I need the cantankerous old cunt to take some photos of me on routes I'm really psyched by. But that's not happening imminently, bah. Still fun to be part of the process.Source: fiendblog