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 fiendblog (Read 379403 times)

Fiend

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#350 Re:  fiendblog
January 28, 2013, 03:28:08 pm
I doubt a definitive guide for the NE would be half the size of BINS let alone double it. Still it shows there is more stuff to be exposed and promoted.

Jack.G

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#351 Re:  fiendblog
January 28, 2013, 10:54:36 pm
In NEO area over 50 individual venues (pm me if you want a list anyone, a bit big to post) and easily 1000 + problems. (This obviously doesnt include any that SA Chris, Coolboy, Tim, I or any others may be keeping quiet about  :P)

BinS has included 10 or so of these venues and a small selection of the established probs.

Plenty of development still to be had :thumbsup:

Fiend

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#352 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 09:43:21 am
Sounds like someone needs to share this information and publicise these venues so other climbers can go and enjoy them....

SA Chris

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#353 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 09:52:27 am
I'll share if you help clean. And platform build. And spot.

Fiend

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#354 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 10:21:12 am
I meant the stuff Jack G is talking about. Fair game to keep new stuff / projects secret.

psk89

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#355 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 04:10:33 pm
Tim Rankin's got the longest sleeves in the country in that case!

I heard tell of a place up in the woods near Milltimber or Peterculter or something. Anyone know of that?

It's not length it's girth :) But yes he does.

Never heard of anthing out that way, but wouldn't surprise me. There are a couple mentioned in the back of NEO, but they don't sound too inspiring.

There is Anguston Quarry which is filling with water and listed in outcrops as chossy the farmer is also filling it with rubbish.  But i think the one you have heard of would come on the map as Guttrie hill its behind where the old international school is.  Popular with dog walkers not much there except one maybe two steep lines and some slabby stuff.

In NEO area over 50 individual venues (pm me if you want a list anyone, a bit big to post) and easily 1000 + problems. (This obviously doesnt include any that SA Chris, Coolboy, Tim, I or any others may be keeping quiet about  :P)

Gonna shoot you a PM or anyone else feel free as im looking for info on a few of the "micro" venues in Aberdeen portlethen harbour, Findon, berrymuir head, cobble boards craig stirling? and a few others
« Last Edit: January 29, 2013, 04:20:36 pm by psk89 »

andy_e

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#356 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 04:17:17 pm
Aye, that sounds about right. Cheers!

SA Chris

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#357 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 04:18:41 pm
Jack G, I've pmed you too.

Not sure what the :wank: was intended for?

psk89

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#358 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 04:21:23 pm
Jack G, I've pmed you too.

Not sure what the :wank: was intended for?

Laptop was being slow must of clicked one by mistake

andy_e

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#359 Re:  fiendblog
January 29, 2013, 04:23:24 pm
Must have been aimed at Fiend  ;)

comPiler

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#360 The Long Game at Laggan.
February 03, 2013, 06:00:08 pm
The Long Game at Laggan.
3 February 2013, 4:42 pm



Day 1 - Grey and breezy. Went to Laggan 1, had a ruckus with the farmer (thankfully resolved), drove to Laggan 2 but so disillusioned I didn't even walk in.

Day 2 - Bright and snowy. Got to the bloc, the top was covered in snow and I couldn't even get up the downclimb to clean it. Worked out all the moves, got on the upper arete but hands to numb to hang on.

Day 3 - Grey and still. Got to the bloc, got on top of the bloc, cleaned the upper arete. Kinda claggy day and greased off top arete twice. Not wise.

Day 4 - Forecast breezy and sunny. Drove to Dalwhinnie. Breezy and....heavy cloud and horizontal sleet.

Day 5 - Bright and crisp. Tore tiny flapper in left finger and large blood blister in right thumb. But discovered that it's a lot easier to climb on clean dry rock that's not covered in snow or condensation....

But THIS was worth the effort:



Remember what I was saying about:

"Climbing some totally brilliant problem with great moves up a natural line in beautiful wild surroundings and wondering why the fucking hell no-one else puts the effort into travelling a bit further from Dumby / Porty to actually climb these damn things and it's left for some outsider who isn't local, nor a long-term resident nor even a fucking boulderer to actually get out and do them??"
  Well that's what I was talking about :).

As a bonus, here's the flipside of Scottish bouldering: Dodgy eliminate with arbitrary positions and boring grade debate. But hey it was a fun problem in it's own right:





Source:  fiendblog


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#361 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 06:21:02 pm
Good effort Fiend. It's nice to see the old place getting some attention.  I really rated this as a classic line, just wish there were more of them up there.  Strongbow at Laggan 2 next?

Fiend

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#362 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 06:52:11 pm
Nah too much of a hassle getting into there, for something that could take multiple sessions, and I've got urgent appointments with Brin, Ruthven, Glen Clova, Cammachmore, Narnairn, Glen Ogle, errr....

Well done on finding and climbing this, it truly is a classic. Has anyone tried/climbed the wall to the left yet??

Also that """6c""" on the opposite boulder is closer to 7c :0

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#363 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 07:27:41 pm
Thats a great looking (and climbing prob) at Laggan2...

SA Chris

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#364 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 08:39:28 pm
Thats a great looking boulder. Nice cusping and good kneeage

Falling Down

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#365 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 08:53:38 pm
Effort Matt. 

Fiend

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#366 Re:  fiendblog
February 03, 2013, 10:18:37 pm
Thanks....although not a particular challenge for me (weather aside!), it's a good example of why I keep doing these narcissitic bollox videos and waffling on about climbing....because it shows off stuff that, as far as I know, not many people (apart from GaZ and Richie ;-)) get round to doing.

BTW it's a GUPPY. I don't cusp >:(

P.S. Just to be sure, afaik this is Gaz's problem (stander and sitter....it's a good natural sitter), he deserves any karma for finding it and writing it up.

GazM

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#367 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 10:19:07 am
I wish it was my creation, but  I actually got shown that boulder by Mike Gale from Aviemore (who wrote the old laminated Strathspey bouldering guide) and he did the stand start.  He's done a fair bit of stuff round SDtrathspey over the years but didn't spend much time at Laggan (dunno why cos it's far and away the best venue).  I named it after him cos he couldn't be arsed naming his stuff.  I then worked out a sit start and my mate Blair pipped me to doing it first by about 2 minutes.  Story of my bouldering career.  Same thing happened when I showed Dave Mac what rapidly became Strongbow.

Most of the other (less amazing) stuff was cleaned and done by me though, and I gave Gale Force a bit of a spring clean when I started going up there.  I've moved up to Inverness now so not been to Laggan for ages.  Must have a return soon.

As for the wall left of GF, it's not been done as far as I know.  I gave it a few tries last winter and was pretty psyched but having moved away it remains to be done.  Being the only local activist and being weak like a kitten there are still some hard things to do at Laggan 1 and 2.

Keep up the Highland bouldering Fiend, it's good to see this stuff being appreciated.

Fiend

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#368 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 10:59:26 am
Okay then people, punter Gaz for missing out the SS FA by 2 mins :P

You publicised it tho....that is very useful.

While you're up in Inverness can you clean off the Meig Crag boulders, thanks  :smartass:



(Edit: by "not a particular challenge", I didn't mean to sound cocky....I meant that although it was challenging and I found it hard enough, I was confident from the start I could do it and it didn't go beyond my comfort level, so the satisfaction was from doing a cool problem rather than an uncertain outcome project)

SA Chris

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#369 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 11:10:23 am
he deserves any karma for finding it and writing it up.

Make it so then.

Adam Lincoln

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#370 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 11:56:34 am
As for the wall left of GF, it's not been done as far as I know.  I gave it a few tries last winter and was pretty psyched but having moved away it remains to be done.  Being the only local activist and being weak like a kitten there are still some hard things to do at Laggan 1 and 2.

How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)

GazM

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#371 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 12:26:22 pm
Honestly, I couldn't tell you how hard the wall left of GF is. Probably harder than 7a+ (my best effort to date)....
The other hard stuff is at Laggan 1 - anything on the big steep wall left of Strongbow,
or on the 'Project Wall' which is up the hill a bit (amazing looking wall but is only bone dry in long dry spells).

Beegsyboy put some photos up in the QB pics thread last year, http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8949.1450.html

I don't know how to link straight to them.  Sorry!

SA Chris

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#372 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 12:34:33 pm
How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)

Wolftrax at Laggan is small but good too if you haven't been Adam. What you need is a nice converted van to head up there for a weekend in with pads + bike.

Adam Lincoln

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#373 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 12:36:32 pm
How hard roughly is wall left of GF? What are the other notable things that remain to be done?Any clues?  ;)

Wolftrax at Laggan is small but good too if you haven't been Adam. What you need is a nice converted van to head up there for a weekend in with pads + bike.

 :-\ Nice van hey? Hmmmmm....  ;)

Keen for Wolftrax. Building up to Fort William, need to grow some big bike balls!

Went to Glentress 3 times last week. Time for Inners downhills now.

Fiend

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#374 Re:  fiendblog
February 04, 2013, 12:38:23 pm
 :off: :spank:

Adam most Scottish bouldering venues have potential for more hard things, get out and get exploring...

 

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