(Climbing) Goals8 January 2011, 5:58 pmI’ve neglected the blog for some time. I got sick in early December, then Christmas was upon us and I’ve been pondering whether to keep it going. Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been thinking through and evaluating goals for the year ahead. It’s going to be a busy year at work as usual and there’s a side business venture in which I have invested that’s going to take some attention at weekends and evenings in the early part of the year so I’m going to have to be smart about how I use the time available.
A couple of years back I got results by following the goal setting and ‘pyramid’ approach outlined in The Self Coached Climber with several Fr7B’s under my belt by June and just missing out on a 7c or two through the weather and injury sustained through climbing too much and bad posture/too much computer work.
I’ve spent the last couple of months exploring and applying the learning I picked up at the Gym Jones Fundamentals seminar and via the Salvation site web resource and am starting to figure out how to train Strength, Power and Endurance as well as the mind and apply this learning to rock climbing.
So… this year, I’ve used the Self Coached Climber self assessment and objective setting to define my climbing goals and the Gym Jones learning to describe the supporting strength, PE and fitness goals that I think are relevant to climbing and also for injury proofing and pushing me mentally and physically when I’m not on the rocks or at the climbing wall.
Climbing:
The pyramid concept works well for me and based on last years performance I reckon that the following are both stretching and achievable.
Redpoint: 7c Pyramid (1x7c, 2x7b+, 4x7b, 6x7a+, 7x7a, 12-156c+)
Onsight: 7b Pyramid (1x7b, 3x7a+, 5x7a or E5, 8x6c/6c+ or E4/E5, 10x6b+ or E3)
Boulder: 7b+ Pyramid (1x7b+, 2x7b, 4x7a+, 6x7a, 9x6c+, 12x6c)
Climbing training: Full set of encore/repeaters on the 45 degree slopers on my board + 25 continuous pullups on the large slots.
Strength, Power and Endurance Goals:
2.5 x Bodyweight Deadlift
1.5 x Bodyweight Front Squat
1 x Bodyweight Overhead Squat
1.25 x Bodyweight Clean
1 x Bodyweight Clean and Jerk
1 x Bodyweight Benchpress (already ticked)
<7min 2k Row; <19:30min 5k row; <60min 15k row
So there it is, let’s see how I measure up come December 31st 2011.
Next is planning out the programme for January…..
Source: Ben's Simple Blog