[comPiler]

In training…
13 April 2010, 7:13 pm

Two weeks ago we were at a 40th birthday party catching up with close friends and acquaintances we hadn’t seen for years.  I got talking to one of my best mates, who was excited to be heading back out to Sumatra for another boat trip to the Banyaks to surf uncrowded perfect waves.  The trip has been planned for over a year and he spent many a phone call trying to convince me to join the team but I had to decline with an uncertain work year ahead and unsure about holidays.  At the party Gav told me that two of the party had dropped out and was joking around with my wife about how I should join the team.

Three days later, my wonderful Mrs walked into my office waving a cheque and saying “You should go. It’s your 40th and you’ll have a great time’.  A bit stunned, I slept on it for 24 hours weighing the pro’s and con’s before accepting the offer.   It took a few days to sink in and then I realised that I would soon be surfing every day for two weeks straight and needed to get into shape otherwise it would be a waste of time and money or worse, I might get injured.

Since then I’ve been in the pool, gym or running nearly everyday and starting to feel like I’m making some gains.  However, I’m sat here typing, feeling really nauseous, arms quivering and slightly shocked after attempting the 300 workout from Gym Jones, designed by ubermensch alpine warrior Mark Twight and his colleagues to whip the actors and stuntmen into shape for the film about Sparta.  It’s really, really, really hard…. and I’m finding it difficult to comprehend doing all the exercises and reps back to back as it’s meant to be done.  I puked up in the garden during the 50 pressups and had to split each 50 rep routine into two or three sets.  I’m going to hurt tomorrow, and probably worse the next day but if I can keep this up for the next three weeks I’ll be hopefully be in good enough condition to take on Treasure Island and Cobra Logs with some degree of confidence once I’ve found my surfing legs.

Surfing Pinue Point, Banyaks, Sumatra, May 2008 Bring it on..



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

43:31
20 April 2010, 8:07 pm

Forty three minutes and 31 seconds… slow but steady and I got all the way through it with no short reps or cheats, chin was above the bar on each pull-up, chest on the floor on each press up and the weight released on each dead lift and clean and press.

You could argue that splitting the 5o reps into chunks of 25, 10, 5 or even 3 is a cop-out and I guess it depends which way you look at it.  Going over the finish line was more important than cheating or quitting half way through.

25 x Pullups on rock rings

50 x Deadlifts @ 120lbs

50 x 20″ box jumps

50 x Floorwipers @ 120lbs

50 x Kettlebell Clean and Press

25 x Pullups on rock rings

It was easier after a warmup run, heart rate higher and all systems firing.  I can now see how it is done, and how to do it ten or 15 minutes faster.  However,  once in a while will do I think and we’ll see where we get to.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Waiting game
2 May 2010, 3:11 pm

Four days until departure, six days ’til I wake up on the Gaia Senja in the Banyak Islands.  The chart is showing a big pulse of swell throughout the Indian Ocean next week, peaking at 8ft/20 seconds on Saturday.  Trying to figure which three boards to take is a dilemma so I’ll leave it a few days until the forecast is clearer and into the middle of the following week.

Surfboards



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Already dim and distant
25 May 2010, 6:08 pm



Bay of Plenty – May 2010

Originally uploaded by Derbyshire_Ben

Taken last Thursday at the Bay of Plenty, Banyak Islands, Sumatra.  40 degree heat, 25 degree water and a glassy perfectly groomed head high powerful swell.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Labyrinthitis
28 May 2010, 2:23 pm

No, not an aversion to a Jim Henson puppet film featuring David Bowie but a frustrating and debilitating condition of the inner ear.  I had it first before Christmas after the flu and virus that knocked me sideways for weeks.  Now its come back after an ear infection on the boat caused by water trapped in the ear canal… I should’ve been wearing my plugs even in the warm water.

The doc prescribed medication this morning and I’ll just have to sit it out and hope it clears up quickly. It’s a bugger feeling dizzy and not being able to move around as normal.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Nothing doing
7 June 2010, 10:14 am

The dizziness subsided as my ears unblocked over the last week.  I was getting worried that it might be something permanent but it must have been the infection that brought it all back.

Work is busy but interesting so that’s OK.  Weekends are chock full of family commitments and socialising for birthdays and weddings which is great fun but I’ve put on some lbs and not been out climbing.

This week hopefully….



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Benchmarking
8 June 2010, 2:05 pm

I needed to get out this week and go climbing rock to get a feel for my current performance level so I can set some meaningful goals for the weeks and months ahead.  Yesterdays rain and humidity ruled out the grit so I headed to Rubicon wall on my own with boots, chalk and crashpad.  It was lovely by the pool with fish leaping to catch evening flies, ducklings chasing parents and coots battling each other across the water.  The usual muddy pool below the wall was dry underfoot and the air cool enough to enjoy the climbing.

Crabbing along the traverse was sufficient to get my forearms pumped and dropping off halfway was a better option than getting terminally wasted trying to hang on for the sake of it.  Surprised by how hard the up problems felt, I had to remind myself I’ve not pulled on a limestone boulder problem since last June when I was at a performance peak which resulted in injury .   This kind of bouldering is pretty binary which makes it good activity through which to benchmark performance and ability.   I now know where I am so can now figure out how far it is to where I want to get to. All good…



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Fitting it all in
24 June 2010, 8:27 pm

June 8th was the last blog entry. Since then I’ve worked like a whipped mule and tried hard to fit some climbing and training in around family and social commitments.  Weekly trips to London and Aberdeen (sorry Chris – ashamed that I’m too busy to catch up) throw a spanner in the works for any kind of continuity so embracing a lack of order and taking advantage of whatever comes my way is the only tactic available.

The climbing head is back in the right place. I’m falling asleep visualising moves and just really enjoying being out at the cliffs with friends, holding ropes, climbing all afternoon or evening, resting and trying hard again.  It’s coming back quicker than I anticipated and in spite of being heavy, the gym/endurance work is paying dividends in terms of overall fitness, endurance and _and_ recovery with the knock on effect of not feeling injury prone.

Tuesday evening, Aberdeen. I’d been up since 5am, catching a flight North and working with clients all day.  Checking into my hotel, the football was on in the bar and a cold beer with World Cup entertainment was tempting but I pulled on shorts, T-Shirt and trainers and headed downstairs figuring that I should at least try before throwing in the towel.  And hour and a half later with a 10k PB on the rower chalked up then a 45 minute run around the block was the salvation needed followed by food, bed and a deep sleep…

Enough sport climbing though..  some adventure is called for.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Limestone weekend
12 July 2010, 9:31 am

The last two weeks have been a blur of work, travel and weekend partying.  Wakestock passed in a blur and recovery took longer than it used to.  A horrible week at work left me feeling drained.

Friday evening, Brian persuaded me to go climbing even though I’d been up since 3:30 am, telling me it would make me feel better.  He was right though.  Teetering with pumped forearms up the top section of Riding the Bullet at Smalldale quarry with the evening sun dipping into the West over Manchester whilst the crows and jackdaws whirled overhead was the medicine my head and body needed.  No more than ninety minutes later, I was back home, tucked up in bed and slept for twelve hours.

Saturday started slowly, chores and visit to the tip before we headed down Cheedale to the Cornice.  Steep, dusty and unforgiving throughout its length, I was a bit intimidated having not climbed there for four years.  Brian dogged up a steep set of flakes at the right hand end, a Fr7a route he’d flashed a couple of weeks ago, lowered off and handed me the sharp end of the rope.  Climbing to verbal instruction I shook my way through the hard bits and connived a rest. The humidity and effort conspired to make things sweaty and slippery but I slithered up to the belay, pleased with a flash at this grade for the first time this year (albeit a soft touch).  To balance things out, The Corniceman, a line to the right at the same standard doesn’t give anything away with dynamic, fingery and sequency climbing up a rib into a nice groove.  It took a while to figure out and two full-bore redpoint attempts weren’t enough to bag it before time and energy ran out.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Limestone weekend
12 July 2010, 9:31 am

The last two weeks have been a blur of work, travel and weekend partying.  Wakestock passed in a blur and recovery took longer than it used to.  A horrible week at work left me feeling drained.

Friday evening, Brian persuaded me to go climbing even though I’d been up since 3:30 am, telling me it would make me feel better.  He was right though.  Teetering with pumped forearms up the top section of Riding the Bullet at Smalldale quarry with the evening sun dipping into the West over Manchester whilst the crows and jackdaws whirled overhead was the medicine my head and body needed.  No more than ninety minutes later, I was back home, tucked up in bed and slept for twelve hours.

Saturday started slowly, chores and visit to the tip before we headed down Cheedale to the Cornice.  Steep, dusty and unforgiving throughout its length, I was a bit intimidated having not climbed there for four years.  Brian dogged up a steep set of flakes at the right hand end, a Fr7a route he’d flashed a couple of weeks ago, lowered off and handed me the sharp end of the rope.  Climbing to verbal instruction I shook my way through the hard bits and connived a rest. The humidity and effort conspired to make things sweaty and slippery but I slithered up to the belay, pleased with a flash at this grade for the first time this year (albeit a soft touch).  To balance things out, The Corniceman, a line to the right at the same standard doesn’t give anything away with dynamic, fingery and sequency climbing up a rib into a nice groove.  It took a while to figure out and two full-bore redpoint attempts weren’t enough to bag it before time and energy ran out.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Heading out
24 July 2010, 9:59 am

The sun is shining and there’s a breeze from the West which should limit the humidity a bit.  Rucksack is packed with climbing gear, food and water by the back door and my pal is swinging by to pick me up in ten minutes.   This is what Saturdays are about….



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Banjo For Sale
25 July 2010, 12:52 pm

I’ve reluctantly decided to sell my banjo.  It’s a Deering Deluxe complete with Deering hardcase, certs of authenticity and receipt of purchase from Hobgoblin music in Manchester in April 2006.

I’m selling it because I just can’t get my head around it.  Guitar? yes. Banjo? no.

It cost me £1295 and it’s in perfect condition having hardly been used after the first six months so I’m asking £1000.

Anyone interested?







Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Banjo For Sale
25 July 2010, 12:52 pm

I’ve reluctantly decided to sell my banjo.  It’s a Deering Deluxe complete with Deering hardcase, certs of authenticity and receipt of purchase from Hobgoblin music in Manchester in April 2006.

I’m selling it because I just can’t get my head around it.  Guitar? yes. Banjo? no.

It cost me £1295 and it’s in perfect condition having hardly been used after the first six months so I’m asking £1000.

Anyone interested?







Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

TFI Friday
6 August 2010, 7:15 am

And the weekend is coming.  I jumped on the wagon this week after the cumulative effect of the world cup, Wakestock, a wedding and Mrs Tye’s birthday left me feeling jaded and fat.  Not a drop of booze has passed my lips since Sunday which is am achievement since I went to a works shindig on Wednesday where it was flowing freely and for free.

Climbing and training again this week. Tuesday saw Brian and I on his board for a lunchtime session. I’d pre-warmed up with kettlebell swings and fingerboard exercises whilst working so was ready for it.  We’ve not climbed in there since February but in spite of the warm conditions I managed a few of my benchmark problems and felt pretty good considering I’ve not bouldered for ages.

The following morning I took Bear for a quick run up and over Eccles Pike in the rain before jumping on a train to London for work and two tiring days keeping up with my ever expanding to-do list.

Full day today so I’ll hopefully get something done this evening and then a full days climbing tomorrow weather permitting.  The Banjo is up on eBay with 25 watchers so I’m hoping that it’ll go tomorrow and I can put the money in my piggy bank for a Concept II Rowing machine when we decorate our spare room.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

TFI Friday
6 August 2010, 7:15 am

And the weekend is coming.  I jumped on the wagon this week after the cumulative effect of the world cup, Wakestock, a wedding and Mrs Tye’s birthday left me feeling jaded and fat.  Not a drop of booze has passed my lips since Sunday which is am achievement since I went to a works shindig on Wednesday where it was flowing freely and for free.

Climbing and training again this week. Tuesday saw Brian and I on his board for a lunchtime session. I’d pre-warmed up with kettlebell swings and fingerboard exercises whilst working so was ready for it.  We’ve not climbed in there since February but in spite of the warm conditions I managed a few of my benchmark problems and felt pretty good considering I’ve not bouldered for ages.

The following morning I took Bear for a quick run up and over Eccles Pike in the rain before jumping on a train to London for work and two tiring days keeping up with my ever expanding to-do list.

Full day today so I’ll hopefully get something done this evening and then a full days climbing tomorrow weather permitting.  The Banjo is up on eBay with 25 watchers so I’m hoping that it’ll go tomorrow and I can put the money in my piggy bank for a Concept II Rowing machine when we decorate our spare room.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Funny old world
10 August 2010, 8:48 pm

First off, please visit Stuart Littlefair’s blog The Spherical Cow as it’s really good. Understated, well written, very entertaining and insightful.

I’ve been on the Tele today.  A talking head on Sky News providing insight and commentary on a big merger in the energy sector.  I’ve never had any meedja training so was totally unprepared.  It seemed to go OK though and my family were all beside themselves with excitement seeing me on the news.

I went for a run around central London last night.  The busy streets were quite a contrast from my usual dash around grassy, sheep-shit, boggy Eccles Pike but the contrast was good.  Steps, walls and pedestrians created random obstacles so I probably looked like some elderly, balding parkour amateur when I was really just charging around like a spazz.  Back in my room I did 100 full movement pressups, 100 core movements and other sweaty grunting stuff for an hour that probably sounded gruesome to anyone passing by the door on the 5th floor of the City Road Travelodge.

Fifteen years ago I was a PhD student holding Gavin’s ropes on what became Rupert’s Kali Yuga and tonight I’m reading about Stu doing a repeat and thinking maybe, just maybe I might have it in me if I can balance all this other stuff like appearing on the tele…. weird.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Funny old world
10 August 2010, 8:48 pm

First off, please visit Stuart Littlefair’s blog The Spherical Cow as it’s really good. Understated, well written, very entertaining and insightful.

I’ve been on the Tele today.  A talking head on Sky News providing insight and commentary on a big merger in the energy sector.  I’ve never had any meedja training so was totally unprepared.  It seemed to go OK though and my family were all beside themselves with excitement seeing me on the news.

I went for a run around central London last night.  The busy streets were quite a contrast from my usual dash around grassy, sheep-shit, boggy Eccles Pike but the contrast was good.  Steps, walls and pedestrians created random obstacles so I probably looked like some elderly, balding parkour amateur when I was really just charging around like a spazz.  Back in my room I did 100 full movement pressups, 100 core movements and other sweaty grunting stuff for an hour that probably sounded gruesome to anyone passing by the door on the 5th floor of the City Road Travelodge.

Fifteen years ago I was a PhD student holding Gavin’s ropes on what became Rupert’s Kali Yuga and tonight I’m reading about Stu doing a repeat and thinking maybe, just maybe I might have it in me if I can balance all this other stuff like appearing on the tele…. weird.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

40 years old
26 August 2010, 9:06 am

Today…. Lovely to wake up to a day off work, open presents and go for lunch somewhere nice.  I’m a lucky man.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[SA Chris]

Happy Birthday Ben. I think working on your birthday shouldn't be allowed.

[comPiler]

Upping the ante
9 September 2010, 9:40 pm

I last climbed on Bank Holiday Monday, over 10 days ago.  You’ve got to be doing it three times a week to stay on a plateau and more than that to improve.  Surprise, surprise I hadn’t done either with a week of working away then a lovely weekend eating and drinking with friends to celebrate my birthday followed by more working away from home this week.

September is on me now.  Work is waaaay too hectic. I’ve to get stricter about saying “No” and delegating more otherwise I’m going to end up in the ground.

I’m training with the Gym Jones team , in London at the back end of October in London and have been trying hard to meet the pre-requesites, getting through some but still a way from others.  Time to kick the booze completely, get more sleep, eat better and up the ante on training and activity to the exclusion of plenty of other things in life right now.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

5 days
13 September 2010, 9:40 pm

Thursday – Bouldering at Raven Tor after work.  Snatched a couple of hours of late Summer, post-work daylight at the Tor.  Had my ass kicked which was no surprise but was close to A Little Extra Direct.  Climbed with Richie Patter which was fun as he’s always so keen and a good climber to boot.

Friday – Run and weights after work.  Kettlebell SOTS presses, swings and carries.  Dumb no-brain exercise at the end of a hard week.  Went out later to watch Gong and Nik Turner (Hippy) and didn’t get to bed ’til 1:30 am.

Saturday – Woke up really tired.  Rode bike to New Mills to pick up the car which woke me up.  Nick came round and we’d planned a mileage day down Cheedale but the rain was hammering down like stair rods.  We braved it only to meet Martin, Paul and Nick coming back up declaring the whole dale a write-off due to seepage and condensation.  Raven Tor was the only option and I wasn’t feeling overly enthusiastic.  A poor top rope (I hate top roping) up Tin Of could’ve been the end of the day but I decided to pull it to go bolt-to-bolt and surprised myself by doing all the moves first try.  Another team moved in to try Sardine which put a bit of pressure on the lower reaches of the route and knocked me off my stride.  The redpoint ended at the crux and with the team snapping at my heels I dogged my way to the top without making the most of the opportunity.  Home, beer, chinese takeaway, X-Factor then early bed.

Sunday – Stoney for the ‘reunion’.  Not that I was ever part of the scene but plenty of my friends were.  Me, Brian and Nick left our house under another deluge and met up with Phil Baker in the layby below the crag.  Walking up to Prayer Wheel Wall we found Rory and Phil and various bearded portly gents like Birtles, Street et al who I only know from old pictures.  Phil and Brian went off to warm up whilst Nick and I procrastinated, got chatting with Quent and then got rained off.  Effing and blinding the English Weather I was ready to bail but the rain stopped and my mood lifted.  Om was relatively straight forward, a sling over the finishing spike protecting the last moves, greasy from the rain.  Halfway up I heard a shout of alarm and a crash from down the dale.  Phil and Brian turned up to confirm my suspicions of a nasty fall with broken limbs and internal injuries.  Brian’s instincts took over and the MR team were on their way.

Nick eased up Padme as the air ambulance circled and a keen youth named Tom chucked himself off the top of Om, a single nut between him and another potential casualty. Brian had had enough trauma for the day and sidled off home to complete risk assessments.  I’d got designs on Armegeddon, one of the classic lines above Windy Ledge.  The picture in Stainforth’s ‘The Peak’ of Chris Jackson completing the traverse against a backdrop of bare winter tree limbs had whetted my appetite several years ago.  We found a young man in-situ at the start of Windover, bamboozled by the difficulty of the starting moves.  Half an hour later, he was stood on my shoulders fishing around for jugs before whizzing up the arete and leaving me the space and time to go.

It flashed by. I felt like a climber again.   Smiling, enjoying the moves and the exposure.  Right up my street. Not too physical, technical, thought provoking and well protected.

The belay at the top allowed a breathtaking view up the dale.  The trees are just turning with the faintest hint of brown and yellow.  It was still warm and the smell of loam and rain on warm rock was intoxicating. I was waving at passers by like an enthusiastic tourist from the top of a sightseeing bus.  I looked at my hands, caked with chalk, black with soil and flecked with blood spots from cuts. I looked down at Nick grinning and pensive at the same time as he negotiated the delicate traverse.  I looked at the sun cutting through the clouds and then shut my eyes to let it all sink in.

Monday – A full day at work at home on the phone and computer before heading to Scotland early tomorrow.  At six pm it was a choice of something the fridge or digging in and doing something energetic.   A run up the Pike with the dog. It was just us two at the summit, a brisk damp westerly forcing her ears flat and me to zip up my top and roll the sleeves down to ward off the chill.  We ran downhill together.  Pausing to flash a grin at a pretty girl riding her horse up the lane.  At the bottom we turned around and did it again for shits and giggles. The dog quizzing me with a strange look.  Back home to more dumb weights.  Chest presses laid on a gym ball and tricep lifts pinching dumbell weights before a cold shower and dinner.  Hot chocolate now and then bed.  Goodnight.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

The project, the path, the journey
7 October 2010, 9:10 pm

The last four months of 2009 were spent injured with elbow tendinitis with November and December passing in a blur of sickness, flu and exhaustion.  With hindsight, the two are probably not unrelated at some deep level as it had been a stressful year.  The elbow healed and the probable cause was diagnosed as stiffness in the thoracic vertebrae and compression of the radial and ulnar nerves from bad posture and all sorts of muscle imbalances and tensions in my neck, back and right shoulder.

I’d started climbing again, somewhat gingerly, at the start of the year. Kickstarting the season with that great weekend in Siurana, Spain where I went from failing on easy routes to flashing a moderately tricky one by the end of the fourth day.  I came back home and was offered the place on the boat to go surfing in Sumatra and was eager to get the most out of it but I wasn’t in the best of shape.  The following six weeks were intensive with lots of pool work, gym visits and bodyweight exercises whilst on the road with work.  At some point during this time (just checked, it was the 15th April) I signed up as a member of Gym Jones to motivate myself and stick to some kind of program.  It worked.  I surfed better than ever, spent more time in the water and less on the boat than on the previous two trips. My wave count was higher and I got better waves.  I drank less beer (not too much less though, it was a holiday after all) and didn’t touch a cigarette (a very old habit of mine that sometimes emerges on holiday). If it wasn’t for the ear infection I picked up that kept me out of the water for three days it would have been perfect.

Coming home, I was psyched for climbing again but miles, miles off where I’d been the previous Summer prior to getting injured when I was close to redpointing 7c and had several 7b’s under my belt.  I was nervy about the elbow problem returning so stuck to climbing routes, gaining mileage and confidence again and stuck to the regular workouts that were not climbing specific at all but focused on building general strength, power endurance and fitness.  Some of these workouts are pretty tough, very tough in fact and designed to push the mind and will harder than the body.

The climbing has been coming back and I’ve started using the Beastmaker again and this week was tempted to do two nights on the run but decided at the last minute to go for a hill run and then come back and do some moderate weights.  I felt bad about not getting on the fingerboad or going to Brian’s bouldering wall and trying to fit another climbing specific training session in on top of the previous day’s efforts.

The following excerpt is from yesterday’s daily schedule published on the Gym Jones members site and it resonated with me and why I made the right choice to not push myself into climbing training two days on the bounce.  Mark Twight is writing about his friend Steve House who suffered a terrible fall a few months and has made a speedy and quite remarkable recovery.  This piece was written over a year ago prior to the incident whilst Steve was visiting Salt Lake City as part of training for K2.

“Due to injury and habit Steve has developed some quite shocking muscular and movement imbalances. That said, these may have helped him climb the amazing routes he has done. Or they were produced by the climbs he has done. Clearly these have not hindered him in the mountains (or have they?) but in the sterile, artificial setting of the gym his right-side dominance, lack of shoulder, ankle, and hamstring flexibility surprised most of us. Johnny stepped back and couldn’t help but stare – not critically, instead reminiscing, understanding, and eventually telling Lisa, “I have to try and remember how far we have all come. We were all like that when we came here.” And this is a great realization for every single one of us, and anyone who has followed this project: no one sprung fully formed, in their current condition from the earth or their previous life. We are all works in progress.

I wish I could stop time to help Steve fix what 25 years of sport-specific patterning and injury has created but the trajectory of his climbing career is that of an artillery shell and cannot be stopped mid-arc. He’s approaching the peak synergy of knowledge and experience and physical capacity and drive. It’s perishable and must be exploited. Taking time out to “balance” issues that might only tangentially affect the next few years in the mountains might flatten the peak or stall the arc altogether. I have asked, “is it worth it?” and answered “no.”

All we can do is help him notice the issues, teach him the best-bang-for-the-buck exercises to address them while simultaneously producing the desired outcome of increased strength, power, and size. Then, later, in a quieter moment, maybe when he’s done lighting up the night sky, we can circle back to create some balance. But deep down, knowing what I know now but didn’t know during my own climbing career, I am certain he would be healthier, and his athletic viability would last longer if the sport-specific imbalances and issues were not allowed to flourish in the first place.”

I’m not daft enough to think that I’m on the same performance arc as Steve House, but historically I’ve failed to hit my climbing goals due to injuries sustained through overtraining or through getting stuck in a rut of seeking continual high performance and failing to meet my expectations.  I understand that I need to take some time to rebalance and build a stronger, more flexible and robust foundation upon which the technical and specific demands of climbing can flourish so I can hit my goals. This might mean taking a longer road in the short term but if I keep my wits about me and my eyes open it won’t end in self-inflicted injury and setback.

Onwards….



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

TNT & Technics
13 November 2010, 12:05 am

Tuesday the 2nd November 2010 – Panasonic announce (yet again….) that the SL12 series of turntables will no longer be manufactured or supported.  I’m listening to TNT, an album by Tortoise on one of my 1210′s. Bought as new with help via a risky bank loan in 1992, the pair no longer occupy adjacent spaces astride a mixer unless we are having a rare, full-on party at home. One lives upstairs in my office, barely used unless I’m totally immersed in a report or client proposal, fueled on strong coffee with a deadline to reach and email/internet switched off where music as a utility drives a tempo and blocks all distractions.

The other lived in the spare downstairs room and was neglected until this last weekend when the DIY assembly of our home gym enforced a migration of furniture and stuff. Bookshelves went North into the dining room and the hi-fi music stack migrated into the lounge.

On Saturday evening I sat down and listened to an album by Shuggie Otis (Inspriration Information) from start to finish, all four sides of vinyl, A, B, C then D, one after the other.  I can’t remember the last time I did this and was acutely conscious throughout of the lack of  >> or > to advance when my attention wandered.   The listening experience was more demanding and rewarding in comparison to the quick click-click-click fix of the same album via Spotify or iTunes (and I’m a big fan of both); the experience a richer one with the tonal palette and dynamic range wider than the bit rate of digital and all because it demanded more of me as a listener.   The music stuck with me for days….



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

A blank canvas
3 December 2010, 3:18 pm

It’s only a few months since we were covered under a thick blanket of snow and already Winter is back.  Breaking away from the desk and computer at midday we went for a walk with the dogs around Eccles Pike.   Everything is plastered white. Brian last night called it ‘almost European’ and I think he meant it was cold enough for the snow to remain as powder rather than the usual slushy grey mush.

The weather has bought all the birds and mammals into closer proximity. Earlier today we had four long tailed tits hanging from the fat balls by the kitchen door and on Sunday a flock of Redwings flew overhead whilst climbing at the Roaches.   The elusive hares have left faint tracks across the fields next to the house, lines of blue dots puncturing a white blank canvas.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Today’s Training
8 January 2011, 4:37 pm

Power Endurance

10 minute row (2.5k)  Warmup

then:

1-6 Pullup Ladder on Beastmaker slots (30 secs between sets)

then:

Deadhangs: 7 sets of encores (7 seconds on 3 seconds rest x 7 rounds) Slots; 20 deg sloper; M2 finger pockets; 35 deg sloper; small edges; B3 pockets; slots.

then:

1-6 Pullup Ladder on Beastmaker slots (30 secs between sets)

then:

25kgKB Accumulation: KB Round The World (pass KB around waist) + KB Figure 8 (pass KB through legs in figure 8 pattern) + KB Snatch (one- arm, alternate arms) + KB Step-up @ 10” box One minute of each, Three rounds (12 min total). Do not set KB down.

then:

Slosh Pipe – Hold OH for 2:30

then:

10 minute Row 2.5k Warm Down

 

 



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

(Climbing) Goals
8 January 2011, 5:58 pm

I’ve neglected the blog for some time. I got sick in early December, then Christmas was upon us and I’ve been pondering whether to keep it going.  Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been thinking through and evaluating goals for the year ahead.  It’s going to be a busy year at work as usual and there’s a side business venture in which I have invested that’s going to take some attention at weekends and evenings in the early part of the year so I’m going to have to be smart about how I use the time available.

A couple of years back I got results by following the goal setting and ‘pyramid’ approach outlined in The Self Coached Climber with several Fr7B’s under my belt by June and just missing out on a 7c or two through the weather and injury sustained through climbing too much and bad posture/too much computer work.

I’ve spent the last couple of months exploring and applying the learning I picked up at the Gym Jones Fundamentals seminar and via the Salvation site web resource and am starting to figure out how to train Strength, Power and Endurance as well as the mind and apply this learning to rock climbing.

So… this year, I’ve used the Self Coached Climber self assessment and objective setting to define my climbing goals and the Gym Jones learning to describe the supporting strength, PE and fitness goals that I think are relevant to climbing and also for injury proofing and pushing me mentally and physically when I’m not on the rocks or at the climbing wall.

Climbing:

The pyramid concept works well for me and based on last years performance I reckon that the following are both stretching and achievable.

Redpoint: 7c Pyramid (1x7c, 2x7b+, 4x7b, 6x7a+, 7x7a, 12-156c+)

Onsight: 7b Pyramid (1x7b, 3x7a+, 5x7a or E5, 8x6c/6c+ or E4/E5, 10x6b+ or E3)

Boulder: 7b+ Pyramid (1x7b+, 2x7b, 4x7a+, 6x7a, 9x6c+, 12x6c)

Climbing training: Full set of encore/repeaters on the 45 degree slopers on my board + 25 continuous pullups on the large slots.

Strength, Power and Endurance Goals:

2.5 x Bodyweight Deadlift

1.5 x Bodyweight Front Squat

1 x Bodyweight Overhead Squat

1.25 x Bodyweight Clean

1 x Bodyweight Clean and Jerk

1 x Bodyweight Benchpress (already ticked)

<7min 2k Row; <19:30min 5k row; <60min 15k row

So there it is, let’s see how I measure up come December 31st 2011.

Next is planning out the programme for January…..

 



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Today’s training
9 January 2011, 10:52 am

45 minute hill/trail run

then:

Approx 30 mins of 10 minutes “foot on” fingerboard/rockrings 3 secs per hold then 3 mins “rest” on rower – two rounds.

then:

SOTS press with light 4kg dumbells – shoulder stabilisation

Up and out early today. It was raw on the tops with a sprinkling of snow and the ground beginning to freeze again.  Eating and drinking later on with family hence the early and relatively short session.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Sunday’s Training
17 January 2011, 12:38 pm

A relatively short climbing session today down to DIY and family commitments.  I was supposed to meet a friend at Stockport but couldn’t make it in time so managed to squeeze in a couple of hours at a friends indoor wall.

Warmed up on some circuits then had an hour on the super steep part, sticking to large or rounded holds to avoid crimping.  Good session overall.

This morning I took the dog for a run just as it was getting light. There are signs of Spring appearing with bulbs starting to show green shoots and the birds were very noisy.

Now I’m on a tube near Hounslow… Some contrast.



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[comPiler]

Saturday at Curbar and the week from hell
27 January 2011, 8:05 pm

Tom drove South into fog, then drizzle and eventually rain and a deepening murk on the Buxton Leek road.  We didn’t even get out of the car at Ramshaw and just cracked the windows open to sniff the air before heading East into Limestone country.  Raven Tor was soaked, icicles dripping and dirty water running down the walls.  We found Jarvis Cocker lurking under the dripping roof at Rubicon.  Tom swore he was fingering the holds on the traverse.

The sky brightened through Calver and we joined the crowds and clouds of chalk at Trackside.  Kids from Brum Uni scrabbling around and a bloke I recognised from Manchester fell awkwardly hurting his hip.  He was putting a brave face on things but looked very sore.

We had a right good crack at Sean’s Arete up on the edge.  A lovely technical problem needing a repetoire of moves and some power to hold it together.  Tom overshot the finishing hold twice and had to have his arm twisted to have one more try.  Nicely poised, he held it together and we all squealed with delight as the sun disapeared.

Sunday: Pounding the pavements and trails around Chapel and Chinley.

Monday: London first thing then Aberdeen in the afternoon capped off with a really hard bodyweight workout in the gym at the hotel.  One of the trainers was concerned with my grunting and groans.

Last night I left the client office at 4pm and got home after midnight.  A hellish evening of delayed planes and waiting.

Reading Matterhorn by Carl Malantes.  Deep in the jungle…..



Source: Ben's Simple Blog

[Falling Down]

I zapped my blog, Twitter and Flickr accounts - all gone, deleted.  The internet is great but f*ck me it can be a distraction at times and a massive drain on time, my limited brain power and energy.   Both are being chanelled more effectively as of now...