good option, to me, would be to specifically train
And thats the other thing - which El Mocho pulled me up on, on Monday ON THE BOARD - i always go back on the board. why? when i fail on mecca, its not because i cant flick between crimps, but because i get pumped/powered out and run out of beans, and dont want to go higher up whilst feeling pumped and being unsure of whether i will be able to make the clips.
Perhaps you could spend an hour on the Depot circuit board at lunch and then show off to yourself on the beastmaker in the evenings?
So you know what you are doing wrong and what you need to do about it, but you are refusing to change this and expect a change in result?
A fool is someone who does the same thing twice and expects different results.
Testify!
There is a spectrum but hardly anyone is undistracted by the prospect of falling. Even Steve Mac, who is one of the least distracted I've climbed with, said in an article that he worked hard to be absolutely 100% undistracted.
Quote from: Someone cleverer than meA fool is someone who does the same thing twice and expects different results.
Whoa there! I know you are right if thats what I want to do - but routes dont burn a hole in my side, they're just something fun to do when its too hot for the minging crimp, and i like bouldering too much to totally not do it. Plus, can you imagine how weak i would become? it would be like barrows mk2
Went on GA yesterday ackshully. It was a total midge death zone, but I had fun. Got a belay on 50 for 5 off Jee as well. That is so cool! Whats it called if you continue?
. Got a belay on 50 for 5 off Jee as well. That is so cool! Whats it called if you continue?
"Falling practice" works, but like all applications of cognitive behavioural therapy it needs to be done right. This means a gradual and consistent exposure to 'falling activities' just outside your comfort zone. For some people this can mean starting off by letting go on a fairly tight top-rope without saying 'slack'. For really nervous people it can mean top-roping gradually higher. Hey Stu, I reckon exposure to falls / climbing above bolts is a really good idea. From a CBT perspective you could also ask the question: "what is it that's making me scared of falling" this may sound like it will be an obvious answer I.e I may get hurt. But I reckon there's loads of individual variations on that. A classic 'exposure / behavioural experiment' would first ask the question 'what am I afraid of?' then attempt to rationalize this. You would then expose yourself to the feared situation E.g leading above Bolts onsight, whist stopping any unwanted behavior (like down climbing and saying take). The idea is you'd gain both a new understanding of your fears whilst reducing habitual unwanted behaviours with an overall decrease in anxiety. It usually works best if it's specific to the individual and the situation. For example I mostly fall off sport routes due to fear of failing rather than taking a lob on to a bolt which I'm usually sure is 99.9% safe. Also I think clip sticking up routes can be really bad for the head.CheersDan
Isn't it the route that got a saucepan padlocked to the first bolt when it was a proj?