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UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
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UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
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JamesD
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one ton monkey
#25 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 07, 2010, 11:31:36 pm
Better late than never I guess...?
It's been a shite week for training but a good week for bouldering!
Monday:
Sweet FA
Tuesday:
See above ^
Wednesday:
Indoor session at Mile end wall, repeated a tough V2 from the week before, did one or two technical V1's, (warmed up on a load of V0's prior to this), disappointed myself by not managing to stick the sit start on a very nice looking V1 leading into an interesting crack/crimp problem.
Thursday:
Resting for the weekend
Friday:
Looooooooooong drive from London to The Roaches, had about an hour of fun before the rain kicked in visciously
Gutted that we wasted nearly 2 hours of good weather after I got confused and stopped on the opposite side of the hill and lead us up the wrong damn hill before checking the map (and boulders), and realizing I had made a complete balls up!
Saturday:
After browsing around the lovely Buxton with the missus we headed up to Burbage South, we had a lot more luck this time and the weather held out for a while longer, we stuck a few of the easier problems, and then when the hail kicked in we followed these two guys we had been chatting to who had been working a traverse on a boulder we were on down to the works, then had a long session there!
Sunday:
Sleep, ill, flu, feeling shite, still feeling shite today, not happy
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Jim
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Pregnant Horse
#26 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 03:22:33 am
STG's:cave life, left wall high, broken heart, western eyes
LTG:bloc 8a before i'm 33 (June 2011)
monday & thursday went to the cave, i love that place. didn't get anything done but getting some session fitness back. A twinged neck has spread to my shoulder and 2 cave sessions seems to of fuct it. luckily got hold of some diclofenac as the ibuprofen wasn't touching it. booked in for a massage which will hopefully get it sorted. not climbing till its right, tried some pull ups before=pain and great weakness down left hand side so trying to rest it as much as possible.
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Jim
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Pregnant Horse
#27 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 04:47:52 am
weight last week - 90kg
current weight - 88kg
target weight 80kg
making progress but have slipped last few days (wife & daughter have been making cakes)
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a dense loner
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#28 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 08:40:52 am
keep eating, don't let me down kes
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Falling Down
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#29 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 08:53:09 am
M - W: Nowt, think I went for a run. Had my final physio session on Monday afternoon.
T - Up early and flew to Barcelona and was really tired. Wobbled up four routes at Arboli Roadside then fell asleep in the car.
F - Siurana Valley Crag - Led six routes to 6b+.
S - La Mussara TV Crag - Led/2nded 8 routes to 6c+
S - Arboli Falco Crag - Led 3 routes to 6c; failed 7a+ redpoint.
(M) - Montsant - Led 6b and 6b+. One was 38m long with 18 clips... blimey.
(T) - Arboli & Valley - 6c+ os plus 2 6b+ flashes.
A great weekends climbing in Spain having only tied on a rope twice since August last year. The tennis elbow has healed completely which feels like a massive step forward (thanks for the message Shark). Twenty six routes over six days, some over 30m in length has really given my fitness a boost and by the end of trip I was very comfortable on the sharp end of the rope. A good start to the climbing year having come through injury and a sustained period of illness.
I've suddenly found myself on another surfing boat trip to Sumatra in May (a surprise 40th birthday present from Mrs FD) so will be putting a lot of training hours in the pool and the gym to get fit for that over the next four weeks.
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Jaspersharpe
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1B punter
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Allez Oleeeve!
#30 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 09:39:56 am
M - Nothing
T - Ditto
W - Gym. Light session as shoulder felt a bit clicky. Felt better afterwards.
T - Zero.
F - Was going to go to The Works but crap weather + bank holiday = punterfest so went to the gym again and had a really good session. Drank wine.
S - Looked at houses. Stuffed face and drank wine at my Mum's.
S - Easter egg hunt and general family do at Mum in law's. Ate plenty etc.
Rubbish week for me from a training point of view. This week's been worse with estate agents and other such stress. Work's about to go mental again, Mrs is away this weekend etc etc etc. Moan, whinge, moan.
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Fatboy
menacing presence
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BFG (Bouldering Freak of Gangliness)
#31 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 09:52:49 am
STG: Get strength and stamina back after 6 month lay-off due to herniating a disk in my back.
MTG: Repeat hardest problems done before injury and climb new project, Chillax (6c) in Glendalough, Ireland.
LTG: Boulder 7a in Font.
Mon: Bank holiday - did a few pull-ups but that was it!
Tues: Work. Evening felt wrecked so didn't go training as I felt I'd just be thrashing at things and injure myself.
Wed: Work. 5-a-side football for good cardio session, feel fitness coming back, good match.
Thurs: Work. General evening session down at the wall - good session and got trying hardest problem from before lay-off.
Fri: Bank holiday - spent time with in-laws.
Sat: Spent time with in-laws and went for a walk.
Sun: Went bouldering in Lough Dan with a few buddies - good session, got back on a project, stamina non-existent.
Average week, quantity wise, but quality wise was top draw with training session fruitful and good session outdoors. Might be a light week next week but going for quality before quantity.
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SA Chris
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#32 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 10:38:40 am
Sorry insect overlords, forgot my duties.
STG - climb something MTG - get some fitness up to do a 7a or two and some decent biking in Dumfries in June
M- Walked to work and back - 1hr. Did a bit of weights then half hour of repeaters on beastmaker - felt OK
T - did some weights
W - Walked to work and back - 1hr, did some weights and situps (2 x 50) - weight 13st 9, down again, which is nice.
T - Walked to work and back - 1hr, did some weights
F - Walked to work and back - 1hr, did some weights, went for walk on seacliff with bairn - 1 hr
S - went for walk - 1 hr or so
S - hillwalking with bairn - 2 hrs
Busy week this week, not got much done, in spite of weahter being OK so far. Hoping next week is better.
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Yossarian
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#33 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 10:51:28 am
Goals:
Continue my assault on the running world. I appear to have agreed to do 15 mile race in July)
Ironman. Deciding whether to enter sprint tri in May. Haven't been swimming since I was little. I was quite good once, so fingers crossed.
Go climbing (I keep putting this off - possibly because of some projected sense of weakness and inadequacy)
Cover of Mens Health - still the main focus.
Monday / Tuesday / Wednesday - Did a lot of work, had haircut, photographed for FT.
Thursday - Went for run. Ran a bit fast and felt weird. Slowed down. Decided I was Superman. Sped up, and decided to enter triathlon. Felt weird again. Undecided.
Friday - 3 hour bike ride. Overtook a number of people, but don't think any of them really counted.
Saturday - At work, then did some gardening in the evening.
Sunday - 4 hour bike ride. With unfit friend, so at what felt like a snail's pace. Considered augmenting it with some cross training (beating up gang of youths who wolf-whistled at my lycra oufit) but decided against it as A: they were probably armed with guns and knives and B: I never beat people up and so might not've known what to do.
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Duma
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#34 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 08, 2010, 10:27:38 pm
cheers shark.
Goals: 7C, 7C+, etc
new STG: fix knee
no climbing last week, at all. lots of work, looking after baby, sorting out insurance claim, attempting to buy new car, but mostly worried about tweaked knee - did it in font at begining of march, but only really bothering me in the last fortnight. resolve to actually see someone at about it next week.
think this power club thing may work, been avoiding posting due to my poor effort.
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shark
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insect overlord #1
#35 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 09, 2010, 04:35:29 pm
Quote from: Duma on April 08, 2010, 10:27:38 pm
cheers shark.
think this power club thing may work, been avoiding posting due to my poor effort.
Good stuff - as I shall be away next week I delegate you to PM any absentees
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richdraws
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Posts: 442
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#36 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 09, 2010, 09:50:35 pm
2010 goals - do a bit of sport, do 10 boulders 7c or greater.
short term - rehab back and hips and get plenty of 7a-7b done of different styles.
weight - 75kg ish
Mon- Matrix reasonable session but a bit tired from Rowtor on sunday.
Tue and Wed - can't remember
Thursday - Cellar board and brief fingerboard.
Friday - Nasty cold begun - brick edge single moves on parents house whilst visiting.
Sat - Durham wall - joint pain and nausea but climbed ok considering the fuss I was making. I was proper burned off by Smoggie. Saw accapi nexus retailer but for some reason he wasn't wearing his product, nice guy but sandbagged me a few times.
Sun - Slipstones loaded up on painkiller and tixylix had a fun short session, Smoggie knuckled a nails v2 abd bled. Made me feel better about him burning me off again.
Not a bad week despite the death cold, I felt comfortable on the rock.
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nik at work
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#37 Re: UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
April 11, 2010, 07:24:54 pm
Sorry this is late, been in Font for the last 10 days.
8B, 8b, (E8)
STG: 8A in Font.
Mon - long day of work
Tues - Work in morning pack in afternoon childcare in evening
Weds - drive, lots
Thurs - drive all morning, get to Font for lunch. Afternoon at Sabot. Do a bit but climb like a goose, driving related fatigue??
Fri - Feel much better, weather showery, climb La Puce at Canche, very happy STG ticked. Massive hailstorm.
Sat - Morning try Coccinelle, it's wet but do all the moves quickly. In the afternoon showboat Magic Bus at Buthiers for aspirant ascentionists in the group. Then get shut down by Magic Bus Left Hand.
Sun - Can't really remember where we went during the day but in the evening I popped out to Buthiers and ticked Coccinelle.
So pretty rubbish in terms of training but very good on a climbing results basis. Less training = more crushing, non?
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UKB Power Club Week 8 (Mon 29th - Sun 4th)
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