[comPiler]

Fairy Steps Access Issues
31 July 2011, 12:11 pm

Just a quick word of warning regarding Fairy Steps: as of the last access discussion between the BMC access officer and co. pretty much the whole of the crag – bar 50m either side of the actual ‘Fairy Steps’ – is now banned for climbing use. I was told by those involved in negotiations that they are still pressing for a more helpful (reasonable) compromise, however this is technically the state of play.

Obviously, stopping people climbing on the Upper Tier is fairly unrealistic as a public right of way tracks the crag for most of its length, with the escarpments rarely being more than 40m from the path. Obviously anything on or around the Lower Tier is a little easier to police, as the landowners, over the past three or four years, have systematically closed most of the old footpath network that covered the lower hillside.

Whilst the BMC site reflects the info above it is hardly categoric in its stance, this mirrors the rather ambiguous info I was given.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=501

Just thought it was worth a heads up, as I know a few people have been confronted by gamekeepers and the like.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Brant Fell Chipping
7 August 2011, 8:53 am

There is currently a thread on ukclimbing.com regarding some apparent recent chipping at Brant Fell. I struggle to understand the mentality of why someone would do this, and on the face of it you wonder if the person who has noticed/reported the ‘chipping’ has mistaken some innocent hold breakage for a more malevolent act. Sadly, in this circumstance, it is not the case, as can be seen in the images below. These were taken in the last couple of days by keen Brant Fell local user George North, who told me the following: “Headed up to Brant Fell this evening for a bit of traversing. Took a few photos of the chipped footholds. There's about 6 chipped holds. There's one hold that makes a move a bit easier than it was - for the most part it's fairly pointless though. Fortunately they haven't chipped  the one foothold on the traverse that would make it a fair bit easier.”

Beggars belief really, and I’m not sure what you can say or do about it, other than keeping a keen eye out for the perpetrator – surely nobody in this day and age is doing this sort of thing unaware that it is completely unacceptable?

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 1

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 2

Brant Fell Chipping: Image 3



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

New Fence at Woodwell
17 August 2011, 11:33 am

I noticed on the UKBouldering.com forum someone raised the issue of a new fence being erected by the entrance to Pylon Buttress, at Woodwell. This shouldn't be a problem, it's presumably a new fence to replace the old wire one which deteriorated a few years back. Unlike the original fence this new installation does not completely block the way through to the crag, and is just  a means to keep walkers to the main footpath – which goes up to the right at the same point where the (now well trodden) path to the crag goes left.

Whilst the land on which the crag lies is technically private and owned by the National Trust, the last correspondence with NT suggested they tolerate climbing at these sectors so long as foliage remains undamaged and the area is kept free of litter and loud noise.



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

New Guide & New Problems
11 September 2011, 2:59 pm

I have done a new guide for the stuff on the Seathwaite Fells, which includes a bunch of very good new problems. There are links to the guide, crag info and a  gallery available via the link below:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/321-seathwaite-circuit-2011.html

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

New Amenities Map
17 September 2011, 9:45 am

I have added a map tagging a number of useful amenities in the Lakes area, which will hopefully be of use to visiting climbers. If you have any suggestions for amenities not included thus far, feel free to make some suggestions and I will add them accordingly....

http://lakesbloc.com/amenities-map.html

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Woodwell O'ert Road Access
14 October 2011, 3:20 pm

There is work afoot to open up Woodwell O'ert Road to climbers once  again. The negotiations with the National Trust appear to have concluded  positively and we are awaiting the NT to finish off work to the access  point. They have bolstered the wall with cement and are (hopefully)  putting in access information signs over the next few weeks.  I will  post something when I have had confirmation that the green light has  been given, until then please DO NOT visit the crag, as this may  jeopardize the process.

Thanks should go to Les Ainsworth for  facilitating the negotiations and to the BMC who have funded the cost of  the wall restoration, signs and perhaps a stile, although I'm unsure to  whether the latter is part of the deal.

Once again, please DO NOT visit the crag until you have heard otherwise.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Woodwell O'ert Road Access Granted
25 October 2011, 4:09 pm

Right then, we have been given the green light to use the crag, however, if you intend to visit please read the rules of engagement:

The National Trust have recently joined in partnership with the BMC to reinstate access to three bouldering areas on Woodwell O'ert Road on a trial basis: Wolf Buttress, Troll Buttress and Cave Buttress.

Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:

1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.

2. Dogs are not allowed.

3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

The above is from the updated Woodwell access info page, which is available to view on the BMC website:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=680

Please adhere to all of the above as well as keeping the crag clear of litter (that includes tape and fag butts!) and minimize chalking where possible (i.e. brush off tick marks after your session) as this is essentially a trial run.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

New Signs at O'ert Road
31 October 2011, 1:59 pm

I went down to Woodwell O'ert Road yesterday to checkout the state of play, since access was re-opened. Two signs have been erected: one by the entrance point (which is over the wall next to the road, as it always was) and a second immediately right of Cave Buttress (i.e. just right of Angel Deelite). The wall at the entrance has been bolstered with cement, but a stile isn't likely to be added, to maintain the area's low profile, and presumably not make it look like a right-of-way.

As previously stated the signs state the following:

Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting:  

1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign.

2. Dogs are not allowed.

3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

Please keep to these simple, common sense protocols, along with keeping the area litter free  to ensure access is maintained.

I will also be updating the Lakesbloc Woodwell guide access info ASAP.



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

50 Best List on UKClimbing
2 February 2012, 12:23 pm

Keen local activist, George North,  has kindly put together a "LakesBloc 50 Best Tick List" over on UKClimbing.com. Now you can combine ticking some of the best lines the LakesBloc coverage zone has to offer with logging them directly into your UKC logbook. Nice one George!

The list is avaiable to view here.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

New Guide, New Classic
26 February 2012, 11:42 am

Further to the recent report of the superb 'new' granite Tear Drop Boulder, in Eskdale, there have been further developments on the boulder. These have resulted in some new problems (including an amazing new 7m arete), a new topo-guide and 'crag page' for the block.

Find out more about this great new addition (offering a 15 problem circuit) to the Lakes District venue list via the following links:

Diamond Reign - News Report

Tear Drop Boulder - Crag Page

Source: LakesBloc

[willackers]

That looks amazing!

[Fiend]

  Looks like a bloody good block.

[Greg C]

It is excellent. It's an often-peddled sentiment, but its great to think even now these kinds of projects/lines can still be found.

[comPiler]

Seathwaite Guide Updated
3 March 2012, 12:00 pm

  I have updated the popular Seathwaite Circuit guide to include some of the more recent additions, most notably the Fox Force Five (7c) and Screwball Scramble (7a+) blocks. I have also tweaked the accuracy of the map to help with locating boulders/problems.

The updated guide is available to download via the Crag Page here:

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/227-seathwaite-circuit-duddon.html



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

RIP Hold X
6 March 2012, 12:59 pm

The infamous X-hold on the Bowderstone's Ladder Face has finally gone to a better place, after the years of strain finally caught up with it and it exploded whilst in foothold mode recently. This grip is best known as the 'off limits' handhold on the original eliminate sequence to Power Pinch, however it is also used on the popular Impropa RH and many of the links that cross this section of wall.

Local ‘Styan’ regular, Dan Turner, has been to the block since the demise of the hold and reports the following:

I repeated Impropa RH (via Power Pinch,) probably goes at hard V9/7c now. I also did all the moves to get you into the link ups (Lateral into Impropa, Lateral into Grand and TheLlink). Doubt it will change the grade but it will probably make them all fairly hard for the grade.

So in real terms, it sounds like Impropa RH is now defunct but other than that no major disruptions to other problems/links.

X-Hold Scar (Photo courtesy of Pete Wilkinson):



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Badger Rock Access
25 March 2012, 10:00 am

  There has been an incident at Badger Rock (Kentmere) whereby a group of individuals were witnessed endeavouring to climb over the dry stone wall which surrounds the field in which the block sits.

Apparently one of the individuals was climbing over the wall when it completely gave way and massively damaged the boundary between the Garburn Pass and the farmer’s field. One can only surmise they were coming from Little Font and trying to avoid the massive (irony intended) 100m walk to the gate which accesses the field. Access to the boulder has always been a bit delicate and this could cause a problem with the landowner.

I have emailed the BMC access rep for Kentmere asking if he could pre-empt the situation and try to diffuse any possible problems. In the meantime I think it would be wise to stay clear of the boulder, at least until the BMC have had a chance to contact the landowner.

Source: LakesBloc

[Mike Tyson]

I'd quite happily help put it back up and try and ease climber-farmer relations! It'd be good training for my new venture and help correct the wrong doings of an imbocile.

[Moo]

Give Birkett a shout maybe? he'll have it sorted in about 20 minutes

[comPiler]

Carrock - Another 8A, Cleaned Lines & Broken Holds
26 March 2012, 12:53 pm

Just a link to the latest news report, which describes some landing improvements (resulting in a new 8A), grade readjustments due to broken holds and cleaned up lines.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/340-metronome.html



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

NO Dogs, Walls, Restoration & Dry
2 April 2012, 12:25 pm

NO DOGS: First up, remember the access to Woodwell O'ert Road is delicate, so please stick to the access rules:

1. Bouldering is only permitted on the 3 designated areas (signed). 2. Dogs are NOT allowed. 3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.

I am reenforcing this with everyone as I encountered some people with a loose dog there only last week.

DRYSTONE WALLS: With regards to the recent damage to the drystone wall surrounding Badger Rock; please could everyone make sure they use gates and stiles wherever possible, even if this does mean a slightly longer approach time. The repairs to the wall around Badger Rock are likely to cost in excess of £400,  which will have to be paid for by the BMC. This is money that could have gone towards more worthwhile projects!

RESTORATION: I have improved a few landings at Carrock Fell and in particular the area around Beebop & Rocksteady (7C/V9), the superb high prow just up from Kits Boulder. I have removed three large branches from the adjacent sycamore, which should help keep the face clean and means the top out is no longer a bush whack. It has also opened a sit start (not done) to the high mossy prow to the right of B&R. I've also patioed out the landing to make it almost decent, bar the large block to the rear which still needs covering with a pad.

DRY: For all those keen on the South Lakes limestone pretty much everything is dry. The following crags are confirmed seep free: Woodwell, Trowbarrow, Fairy Steps and Farleton.



Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Broken Holds: Tourniquet & Kaizen
18 April 2012, 11:36 am

There have been a couple more hold breakages on well travelled crags in the South Lakes:

At Woodwell, a large hold has come off the base of Whats This For...! which whilst not really effecting the aformention problem may have some significanceon Kaizen and Kaizen Lite. At Kentmere, a sizeable chunk has come off the superb Tourniquet, dropping the grade from 8a/+ to around 7c+.

Both holds are intact and in safe hands. Hopefully they will be reattached at some point over the next month or so.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Wet Wet Wet
9 July 2012, 2:43 pm

Sadly everything on the South Lakes limestone is pretty awful at present, with all roof orientated venues being almost unclimbable and even ever reliable spots like Trowbarrow are fairly grim thanks to the proliferation of foliage combined with the humidity.

To paraphrase Homer Simpson: Water water everywhere so lets all have a drink... oh, and make it a strong one!

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Kentmere Guide Update
9 July 2012, 2:49 pm

There were some issues with Mac users not being able to open the Kentmere guide without encountering some pretty major errors. I have mucked about with it and and updated the layout somewhat and it now seems ok on both Mac and PC. Unfortunately, thanks to some slight glitch in the original file I can't seem to convert it into a standard PDF without incurring some major degradation in the image and diagram quality. Therefore I have had to convert it into a Hi-Res PDF, thus it is now 25mb, rather than the original 8.5mb. On the upside it does look quite crisp once you have eventually  downloaded it.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/202-kentmere-boulders.html

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

St. Bees North: Central Descent Deterioration
3 August 2012, 3:25 pm

Over the last couple of months there have been a number of minor and one sizeable rockfall/landslips on the cliffs on and around the central descent (above Apiary Wall) at St. Bees Head, North.

Whilst the descent is still usable the base has become quite traitorous and loose, so please be careful when using this access point. The ropes are, at the time of writing, still in place, however at least one anchor bolt has been squashed/damaged and may no longer be safe.

If you are at all unsure please use the easier northern descent.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Carrock Fell Fell Gallery Updated
25 August 2012, 10:14 am

Added quite a few new images to the Carrock Fell gallery, hope they help you get psyched for autumn/winter...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/galleries/315-carrock-fell-gallery.html

Source: LakesBloc