[Probes]

Im not trying to stir the pot. Ive just re read pf's website, and this is disgraceful, what a strange attitude.
they state straight away...

"After six months as planetFear in Keswick, we wanted to do something for the local climbing community who have supported us so far. Many of our staff are regular visitors to St Bees, so we thought it would make sense if we could use their local knowledge to the benefit of the people interested in climbing in the area"

So after only 6 months having moved into an area they decide to give something back... fair enough... but then when then hit some opposition.. they spit their dummy... apparently they are not aware of the steps being taken to deal with the problems of 30+ tents, associated cars, barbeques, access to the climbing etc etc this is going to cause. Yeh sorry for being the ignorant selfish local. 

"Some local climbing activists, used to having the area pretty much to themselves, have voiced opposition to the event, citing access, environmental, and erosion concerns. They were not aware of the steps we are planning to take to mitigate these, outlined above. They will no doubt stay away for the duration of the event, and return when they can have ‘their' crag back."

[andy_e]

I'm about 200 miles off being a local, as are the majority of the people who have opposed this event! I've only been once in my life (unfortunately) but even I can see it's not a great idea!

[csurfleet]

Okes, I'm going to own up here, I'm going to this.  Before I get puntered into obscurity hear me out!

I'm a big fan of the bouldering at St Bees and I've been on quite a few trips up there previously. I'm also up in the lakes over that period anyway and had planned to spend a couple of days in that area, so when I saw the ads for the PF thing I figured it would make for convenient camping and some entertaining banter in the evening. Feeling a bit guilty now like! Thing is I could cancel my ticket but I'd still be going that weekend, and would have to stay on some crowded bank holiday campsite somewhere fending off chavs.

The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?

Chris, who will be taking his own topo, and cleaning his boots 

[slackline]

The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?

I don't recall anyone condoning the use of the venue for instructional purposes though so I don't see why you're confused.

Now that you've highlighted it I bet others who are against the PF event would be as opposed to this as well, I know I am.

[Greg C]

Okes, I'm going to own up here, I'm going to this.  Before I get puntered into obscurity hear me out!

I'm a big fan of the bouldering at St Bees and I've been on quite a few trips up there previously. I'm also up in the lakes over that period anyway and had planned to spend a couple of days in that area, so when I saw the ads for the PF thing I figured it would make for convenient camping and some entertaining banter in the evening. Feeling a bit guilty now like! Thing is I could cancel my ticket but I'd still be going that weekend, and would have to stay on some crowded bank holiday campsite somewhere fending off chavs.

The one thing that confuses me about the objections though. Twice at the north head I've seen instructors with a gaggle of young teens scrabbling up the easier problems. Surely the impact of 60 people. who for the most part I'd hope are experienced climbers and know how to look after the rock, over 2 days is going to be far less that this regular group use by instructors?

Chris, who will be taking his own topo, and cleaning his boots 

Thanks for posting squire. I have no problem with you or anyone who has booked, my complaints a leveled directly at Planet Fear. I agree with slack---line, I would have just as much objection to the place being used for random group use as for this 'festival' - I'm fairly sure it is officially frowned upon. As well as the other issues raised, it sets a precedent for this sort of thing, how long before Go Outdoors or the like start running events down there, a terrifying thought, and one you would be hard pressed to stop happening if this event goes ahead.

[csurfleet]

Fair play I'll be sure to  at anyone I see fucking the place up.

[SA Chris]

I could cancel my ticket

Did you pay to attend the event?

I fail to understand how organising an event like this is "giving something back"

[GCW]

There was quite a negative attitude when people had a comp at a well known crag years back.  Has anything changed since?

[slackline]

There was quite a negative attitude when people had a comp at a well known crag years back.  Has anything changed since?

Petzl rock trips seems to get a fair bit of coverage and enjoyed by many participants, perhaps thats what set the ball rolling on these types of events, or in part is responsible for popularising them.

[comPiler]

Woodwell
12 April 2011, 10:51 am

Woodwell was dry today.

I note that the BOBN hold has finally fallen off leaving a much less positive edge.  Part of the Closer undercut has also broken, although this makes minimal difference.

Source: LakesBloc

[andy_e]

 

Any plans for glue?

[GCW]

I don't know who (if anyone) has the hold.

[Beastio]

Was a matter of time, was there a month ago and it was pretty destroyed! Such a shame

[comPiler]

New Duddon Venue
20 April 2011, 9:35 am

Over the last month or so myself and Andy Hebson, have been feverishly working out, cleaning up and documenting a previously unrecorded bouldering area in the Duddon Valley, in the western Lakes...

Find out more via the site:



http://lakesbloc.com/news/304-best-in-the-west-extensive-new-area.html

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Farleton Dry Tooling Continues
23 April 2011, 12:11 pm

The blithering idiot/s who have, over the last year or so, been dry tooling on the crags around Farleton and Hutton Roof, seem still to be active, as the scratches and damage to the right of New Rose show...

Do you really need to be told that this is a bad idea, and completely detrimental to the rock and area!?

Source: LakesBloc

[GCW]

I can not believe this shit continues.

[comPiler]

Lad Stones - Sort Out
2 May 2011, 8:42 am

As briefly mentioned in the latest news report on the site, I have sorted a few landings and cleaned a number of problems up at the Lad Stones, Tilberthwaite.

I continued where Dan Varian left off, by evening out (as much as possible) the superb, steep back face of the Panorama Stone. I’ve also sorted the terrible landing of the large impressive prow on the right side of this face, which was apparently climbed last year by Mick Adams. This was achieved by filling the chasm with dead gorse bushes, which has created a surprisingly good (springy) landing, when covered with a couple of pads.

Image top right: sorted landing of the big prow on the back of the Panorama Stone.

Other problems recently cleaned include: Hades Lair, Warstater and the Underground Butler, the good warm ups on the small block below Groove Armada, and finally, The Death Clock and Booze Baron on The Bothy. The last problem mentioned has lost a handhold and is now considerably harder (7b+?), and less good than when in its original state. The top outs to Smoking Guns and the highball 6c crack, on The Bothy, could do with a sort out, but I haven’t gotten around to this as yet. The fantastic Traci Lords, has also lost the small LH start gaston originally used, although there is a small pocket below the gaston. It looks like it will now be  a bit harder – 8aish? Mick Adam's may have done it in its current state, although this is unconfirmed.

Below is a topo of the fantastic Warstater Face on the back of the Panorama Stone - a must visit face for all Bowderstone aficionados.

Problems

• Rocko's Modern Life (7a+/V7) SDS From the far left corner climb a rightward curving line into p2 and finish via this.
• Hades Lair (7a/V6) SDS From a big side pull and slot make a powerful move to a good hold and continue direct to finish. *
• Warstarter (7b+/V8) SDS Start at the base of p2, pull on and move right to a rail, then up right again to two small parallel slots/pockets. From here climb direct to the top of the block. There are a few dodgy looking holds high up, try to avoid these - there are plenty of other solid grips to choose from. **
• 7a/V6 SDS Use a good, obvious slot/pocket for your RH and a small edge LH to pull on and up to the rail, continue left into p2 and finish as per this.  
• Warstarter RH (7c/V9) SDS Start a little lower the the previous problem, with the good slot/pocket for your LH and and a small crimpy pocket for your RH. Make a couple of tough moves to gain the rail and finish as per p3. Finishing as per p4 is 7b+.
• Battalyst (7c+/V10) SDS Start as per p1 but link into p3 to finish. Maybe 7c/V9?
• Big Prow (7c) The highball prow from standing utilizes some thin holds and a big a reach. Not sure if the sitter has been done?

Finally a big shout out to Ben Freeman, Dave Jones, Dan Turner, Tom Newberry, Andi Smith, Mick Adams, Tony Simpson and Dan Varian who's efforts in getting up to this great venue (despite the current poor info available for the crag - my bad!) and apply some traffic and add new problems, has helped shift loose rock, cleanup the holds and give useful feedback. Thanks guys.

If anyone else is thinking of visiting in the near future, I have added a few new images to relevant gallery on LakesBloc, to help drum up some psyche:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/gallerys/242-lad-stones-gallery.html

Warstarter Video

from beastmaker.co.uk on Vimeo.

Source: LakesBloc

[Richie Crouch]

Excellent gallery there Greg.

Whats the padding necessary for the majority of stuff? Would you feel safe on most of the problems with 3 mats? Will aim to make a trip there at some point before this nice weather ends!

[comPiler]

2011 Top 50 Draft
22 May 2011, 10:40 am

The link below goes to a first draft of the new 2011 LakesBloc 'Top 50 Best problems' list. I have taken on various suggestions, however if anyone has any more thoughts fire away. There is also a list of a few problems which came close to making the list at the base of the doc. If you think any of these are more worthy than actual inclusions, again let me know...

http://www.lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/LB-TOP50-2011-DRAFT.pdf

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Bowderstone WIKI
28 May 2011, 11:15 am

I have put together a WIKI website for the Bowderstone. All the main guide inclusions have been added, plus a number of newer links/eliminates, many with photo-topos and video links.

Due to the almost infinite number of variations, links and eliminates possible on the mighty Stone, I thought this would be a good way for anybody and everybody to record their favourite variants, without the need of adding them all to the guide, and making it stupidly large and complex. It is also a way of ironing grade disputes, problems with broken holds, and the exact description/rules for specific problems.

If you want to join the WIKI feel free, anybody can sign up and add/edit pages, although I urge you to read the 'How to use this Wiki' page before you plow ahead.

Bowderstone WIKI

http://bowderstone.wetpaint.com/

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

50 BEST BLOCS
29 May 2011, 11:55 am

Here it is, the latest incarnation of the LakesBloc top 50 best boulder problems list.

50 BEST BLOC: Tick List

http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

(PDF printable/tickable version at the base of the page)

As always, I'm sure I'll have left something out, that someone thinks should have been a "certain inclusion", but hey you can't please everyone... maybe I'll do a 'Top 100' list on the blog sometime?

Any who, get ticking....

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Woodell Conditions
2 June 2011, 12:41 pm

All the buttresses seem to be dry and in good nick, especially when the wind is blowing.

Up at Farelton, I noticed yet more dry tooling marks the other day. Words fail me.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Trowbarrow Wet
23 June 2011, 10:57 am

The Shelterstone has a decent amount of seepage at present, and with the current wet weather this is likely to continue for a while.

As an aside, take care as some thoughtless gimp has left their bowel contents in the landing zone for Vitruvian Man.

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Dry & New Problems
3 July 2011, 8:49 am

After a good week of dry and not too humid weather, everywhere is seemingly dry or nearly dry. Of course you may have to find somewhere in the shade or that catches a good breeze now summer has finally arrived (for how long is anyone's guess).

These class (probable) new problems at Fleswick Bay fit at least one of the criteria above, and are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity, plus if all else fails you can go for refreshing dip!

http://lakesbloc.com/news/311-oh-i-do-like-to-be-beside-the-seaside.html

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Bad Moon Rising
29 July 2011, 2:55 pm

Having been up to Thorn today, I can see a few of the problems are starting to suffer.  The low footholds on Fix my Sink/ And for my Next Trick are becoming progressively more worn, Mothership probably doesn't need any more brushing, but more worrying was the Bad Moon Rising flake.

Today the flake visibly flexed significantly and is evidently on its last legs.  What should be done about this is a good question.  It's hollow behind, and held only by the thin rock at the left end.  It's also pretty eroded.  I din't try the problem today because of the likelyhood someone as fat as me would snap it off.



Source: LakesBloc