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Woodwell & Trowbarrow Conditions
9 April 2010, 11:54 am

Current south lakes conditions, according to various local activists,  are mixed to say the least. By all accounts Trowbarrow is, as you would  expect, pretty much completely dry, bar the odd hold. Whereas Woodwell  is pretty much a wash out, with seepage lines on most climbs.

As  an aside, the 'new' circuit at Windy Clough (recently reported) dries  almost instantly the rain stops...

Source: LakesBloc

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Rakerigg Crag Finally Added
11 April 2010, 12:07 pm

This is a crag Dave Birkett showed me a long time ago, and after a few visits (over a number of years) I thought it time I finally got around to sticking up a page and topo for the crag.

This venue has a somewhat unique past, full details of which can be found on the "Crag's Page"...

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-east/274-rakerigg-crag.html

There are also a few action images on our Facebook page here...

http://www.facebook.com/pages/LakesBloccom/338554937459

Source: LakesBloc

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Dry Crags
15 April 2010, 12:12 pm

Conditions seem good across the Lakes and in light of the fact there is little rain on the horizon get out while you can.

Of the limestone crags, Woodwell is still the dampest venue. However that said, climbing is still easily possible on most buttresses.

Source: LakesBloc

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Ennerdale Bouldering Circuit
25 April 2010, 10:37 am

Yesterday I thought it was about time I got around to checking out a small, far flung bouldering circuit I was told about a number of years ago, by an intrepid explorer known only (to me at least) as “Pil”.

The circuit in question is a few miles down the valley of Ennerdale, in western Lakeland. For those unfamiliar with the valley, it is extremely isolated, by UK standards at least, and takes a fair while to reach even from the nearest sizable town of Whitehaven. On top of this, the valley road terminates at the head of the lake, from which the valley derives its name. As such the only way to reach the end of the coulee is on foot or by mountain bike. Personally I think this is great, as the valley gives you a real sense of what the Lakes was like before the onslaught of tourism and all the cheese ball trimmings and litter loutish behavior that brings.  Anyway I digress…

Tom Newberry on Visual Impact 7a+/V7Let’s make one thing clear from the outset: this place is not a major destination; it’s not even a minor destination. However, from time to time we do get the odd request for bouldering information relating to Ennerdale, so in the interest of definitivism [sic] I thought we should recce the area and report the findings.

Pil, the aforementioned spiller of the beans, documented his information in way of a photographic journal of what he had sent and descriptions for the lines in question. Unfortunately though we didn’t have any real idea of where the blocks were, so we just had to head down the valley in exploratory mode hoping for the best. After a couple of miles of fruitless searching we had a piece of good fortune; two gents – obviously climbers – came pounding down the valley track on mountain bikes, and after the obligatory “aye up” I realized I had met one of the gents before. It turned out to be a guy I had last met in Switzerland two years previously (Neil I believe is his name), who was out with his mate to do some routes on Pillar Rock. Fortuitously, Neil’s mate was a local who recognised, from my description, the trackside block, and kindly filled us in with location details. The game was afoot.

Tom Newberry on The Grinding Mind 7b+/V8

Once we had located the boulder by the track we pieced together the locations of the other boulders (all in the near vicinity) and in turn had a great day working our way through Pil’s circuit – I had printed off all his images, and as such identifying the blocks was easy enough once we were on the right track. Despite the isolation of the area, if you are a keen boulderer operating in the mid to higher grades (the best problems are 7a/+ and above) and are ever in the area for some reason, Pil’s lines are well worth seeking out. In particular, Visual Impact (7a+/V7) and The Grinding Mind (7b+/V8) are absoutly superb, and would be classics at any crag.

Due to the esoteric nature of the area I haven’t put together an actual topo as such. However, the following *Google map contains parking, approach, boulder locations, and problem descriptions, which should suffice if used in combination with a few printed off action shots.

View in a larger map

*Note: The forests on the Google map do not accurately represent those actually in place, as the area is deforested and replanted regularly - i.e.  the tree cover changes depending on logging activities.

To check out Pil's original info/images click here.



Source: LakesBloc

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Farleton Abuse
25 April 2010, 3:22 pm

Farleton was in good nick today, despite the intermittent drizzle.

On the down side I was disappointed to see scratch marks on the Family Planning area, as well as bucket loads of chalk on New Rose and the problems around The Coil.

Whilst it's great that people are visiting these areas, I would hope that people climbing in the 7s would know not to leave so much chalk, so many tick marks and so much rubbish (I've taken the finger tape and bottles away).

C'mon people, let's try to have some respect for our crags.

Source: LakesBloc

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Site & Guide Update Plus New Problems
9 May 2010, 11:08 am

I have added a fairly simplistic yet useful addition to the site, which offers related information on relevant "Crag" and "News" pages. Basically, if you are on a specific crag page the site will show the 5 latest news stories relating to that crag, in the menu column to the right. Likewise, if on any given news story, all related crags page links will appear in the same place to the right.

On the new problems front there are a couple of additions to the Brant Fell circuit, and a notable hard(ish) send up at Sampson's Stones...

http://lakesbloc.com/news/278-brant-fell-a-the-ergosphere.html

I have added the new Sampson's Stone line to the guide (for those who don't know where it is) and also amended a couple of errors...

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/south-west/170-sampsons-stones.html

Source: LakesBloc

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Graded Lists Updated
9 May 2010, 1:20 pm

Let me know if you notice any cock ups...

By Crag

http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf

By Grade

http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf

Source: LakesBloc

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It's Hot...
23 May 2010, 10:22 am

Very hot indeed.

Source: LakesBloc

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Woodwell Still Dry
11 June 2010, 10:44 am

Checked out Woodwell last night, and despite the indifferent/damp weather of late the crag is bearing up well, with almost everything being dry enough to climb.

Also, I did a new problem at the crag that shall not be named, see here for further details.

Source: LakesBloc

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Fleswick Topo Updated
22 June 2010, 6:31 pm

A few more climbs have been done at the Fleswick Bay Boulders (I'll write a news report soon), these have been added to the basic topo, making for an increasingly worthwhile circuit...

http://lakesbloc.com/guides/fleswick-boulders.pdf

Source: LakesBloc

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Woodwell Guide Updated
30 June 2010, 12:39 pm

I have added a few additions to the Woodwell guide, as well as adjusted a few grades.

Most notably is The Crushinator, which, since the release of the guide, has been made much easier by the use of the beta whereby you slap to  a decent side pull hold (rather than  the slopey blob originally used). This now makes the stand up around the 7a mark. That said, a proper sitter starting at the back of the roof, has now been done - start between Lily Pond Walk and Superstar DJ Low - which keeps the sitter grade at around the 7b+ mark.

I have forgotten to add Paroxysm Low to the guide, I'll remedy this ASAP.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/south-lakes-limestone/233-woodwell.html

Source: LakesBloc

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Woodwell Wet
19 July 2010, 5:03 pm

Looked in at Woodwell- Tom's and Not Bad Dave areas- and it was pretty wet.  Also a fair bit of seepage from the usual places.  All in all I suspect it will need a few dry days to dry things up again.  Is this the end of Summer?

Source: LakesBloc

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Dry Tooling at Farleton!
30 July 2010, 9:25 am

With reference to GCW's post a month or two back, I yesterday got the chance to see, first hand, the damage at Farleton.

This is has blatantly been caused by someone - a complete novice judging by the damage - dry tooling on the crag, which is just plain out of order. To add insult to injury, presumably the same person or persons has inscribed 'FPC' at the base of the Family Planning Centre sector, which is as perplexing as it is outrageous. I am reliably informed that something similar has occurred on the 'Nicks Traverse' sector at Hutton Roof, which is an equally idyllic unspoilt (not to mention SSSI) crag where this should not be happening.

I hope this is just some misguided individual/s getting it all wrong, and not a malicious act. In either case, if you are the individuals involved please stop.



Source: LakesBloc

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Most Popular Crags List
2 August 2010, 12:03 pm

Ok so we all love a good list; so here is a list of the most popular crags (in terms of number of guides downloaded) in the LakesBloc region so far this year...

• Woodell
• Kentmere
• Limestone Link (Farleton, Hutton Roof, Dalton)
• Carrock Fell
• St. Bees South
• Bowderstone
• St Bees North
• Windy Clough
• Trowbarrow Quarry
• Thorn Crag
• Langdale Boulders
• Fairy Steps
• Old Buoys Circuit (St. Bees)
• Warton Crag
• Rakerigg
• Gillercombe
• Thirlmere
• Armathwaite
• Sampson's Stones
• Fleswick Boulders (St. Bees)
• Shucks Lair (Fairy Steps)
• Cringlebarrow
• Settle Earth Boulders (Longsleddale)
• Blake Rigg Boulders
• Red Wall Eliminates (Trowbarrow)
• Lad Stones
• Langstrath
• Honister Pass
• Heysham Head
• Duddon Valley Boulders
• Eskdale Granite
• Cam Crag
• Hyning Wood
• High Rock (Honister Pass)
• Black Crag
• Gouther Crag
• Long Crag
• Rolling Rock (Patterdale)
• Virtual Crag
• Stirrup Stones
• Clough Pike
• Heron Stones

Not sure if there's much, if anything, to learn from that, but one thing I do know: with Sampson's Stones ranking in the top 5 LakesBloc venues, in terms of quality, more people should be making the effort to get up there!

Source: LakesBloc

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Updated Guides
6 August 2010, 8:15 pm

The following guides have been updated:

Gillercombe & Sour Milk Ghyll (Major)

St. Bees Head - South (Minor)

Sampson's Stones (Minor)

Trowbarrow Quarry (Major)

Source: LakesBloc

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Bowderstone Guide Updated
13 August 2010, 9:22 am

In line with the numerous recent guide updates, I have given the Bowderstone guide a bit of a makeover. As with all the modern LB guides it now has the split Font/V grading system, as well as a few grade tweaks and a new cover....

Bowderstone Aug-2010 Update (PDF 4.81mb)

Source: LakesBloc

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New Langdale Boulders Guide
19 September 2010, 10:53 am

I've knocked up a new topo/guide for the Langdale Boulders. I toyed with the idea of doing a photo-topo guide for the blocks but in the end, having used the Rockfax (photo-topo) and FRCC (overview) topos I figured that the overview method was more than adequate to purvey the information for the pure lines and worthwhile traverses at the area.

I find it a little bizarre that the Rockfax guide actually has such a level detail and inclusion of eliminates for this crag, when 90% of the other crags featured are fairly selectively/vaguely described? The contrast in accuracy and inclusion between this crag and the Bowderstone, for example, is staggering. Ah well I digress.

Any who, here is my simple new Langdale topo...

http://lakesbloc.com/guides/langdale-boulders-guide.pdf

Source: LakesBloc

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Iphone & Android 'Stone' Guide
15 October 2010, 11:45 am

Iphone & Android Bowderstone guide 'Smart Phone Aps' now fully functioning and available for free here....

http://www.thesend.co.uk/apps/bowderstone.php

http://lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/81-bowderstone.html

21st Century Guiding!

Source: LakesBloc

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Mosedale Boulders Guide
17 October 2010, 1:16 pm

I have added a basic photo-topo for the Mosedale Boulders, Carrock Fell to the database. This is directly available here...

http://lakesbloc.com/guides/carrock-mosedale-boulders-guide.pdf

For more info on these boulders and recent additions to the circuit see this new report...

http://lakesbloc.com/news/295-mexican-rumble-a-old-spice.html

Source: LakesBloc

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Snow
3 December 2010, 5:01 pm

A quick conditions update for the current snowy period.

Trowbarrow is in OK nick actually.  The Shelterstone has a white hat but after a bit of brushing the problems finishing onto the slab are fine.  Vitruvian may be more difficult to top out on though!

Woodwell is also in quite nice fettle, minimal seepage and not a lot of snow on the rock for Tom's across to Not Bad Dave.

Obviously if the temperatures rise a bit, there will be a lot of meltwater and everything will be soaked.  Get to it whilst it's good!!

Source: LakesBloc

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Snow 2
20 December 2010, 11:16 am

Whilst it goes without saying most places are badly affected by the recent snowy conditions, that usual oasis of good weather, St. Bees Head, has also (unlike last year) been hit by the snow. Most specifically the Northern Head, which yesterday had around 5cm of snow on most boulders, not to mention the central descent, which has been turned into a winter Grade II gully - not for the faint of heart! On the up side, the Southern Head (thanks to its more south facing aspect) was in excellent condition from a climbing point of view, although both (on foot) approaches are a little sketchy in places.

As it has remained cold and dry Thorn Crag was also in good nick on Saturday, although a big brush may be required to remove powder snow on some blocks. The main problem (as with many rural venues) is the state of the final cul-de-sac approach road, which remains untreated and is quite icy.

Source: LakesBloc

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St. Bees Issues
16 February 2011, 1:02 pm

Thought I’d share this email I recently sent to the BMC with you, as it could affect anyone who utilizes St. Bees Head…

“First up, as I'm sure you are aware St. Bees becomes evermore popular as the years roll on (partially my fault I guess), and with the increased footfall and year-round visitors the descents are taking increasing hammer, to the point where the base of the central, and most used access point, is crumbling into the sea, becoming a) an eyesore and b) slightly dangerous - the last section does not have an insitu 'confidence rope'. The upper sections are also becoming quite worn, with the original vague trail becoming an obvious muddy track with a couple of deviations off the main path. A possible solution is perhaps to close this off through the winter months (when it is at its most fragile) and ask users to use the slightly longer but easier northern descent or the more 'adventurous' southern descent at the Fisherman's Steps?

The second issue is something that is probably beyond your control but I thought it was worth bringing to your attention, as it could in future cause access problems, if and when the RSPB catch wind of it. In a nut shell the fisherman who use the headland are generally complete arse holes! They persist on leaving copious amounts of litter and various other junk - plastic bags, large towels covered in fish guts, bags of semi-defrosted bait, teabags, crisp packets, sandwich rappers, fishing line, etc etc. - on the headland after their sessions, allowing it to be washed into the sea when the tide comes in. I do not over exaggerate when I say it is pretty much every fisherman I have ever seen on the headland, whether at the north or south head. If you want further details I can furnish you with numerous anecdotes of leaving the crag with my crash pad full of bags of THEIR rubbish which I have removed. Fortunately, whilst this is a fairly big problem on the southern head, there is still fairly low numbers prepared to handle the more arduous descent into the northern head, although it does seem as though numbers are increasing – there were 6 guys there last Sunday.”

I had a positive response from the BMC. With regards to the erosion issue: there are few obvious solutions tabled and this will be discussed at the next BMC “Lakes Area Meet”, so if anyone has any views on this please feel free to attend and give your input. Regarding the fishermen and their rubbish issue: there’s not a great deal we, as climbers, can do about this other than take anything you can away and dispose of it properly. Not our job I know, but it may help alleviate any future access issues.

Source: LakesBloc

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St Bees Head South - Landslip
17 February 2011, 12:55 pm

There's been a landslip at St. Bees Head - South, from hill/cliff above the north end of the beach. Shouldn't cause too many issues if you need to get to the crag but be careful...

More info and images

http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/path-safety-warning-as-coastal-cliff-crumbles

Source: LakesBloc

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Not Bad Dave
1 March 2011, 8:57 pm

Richie Hession reports that a chunk of rock has fallen out of the roof of Not Bad Dave at Woodwell Middle.  The problem is still climbable, and the rock seems stable now but just be aware.  The rock band under this roof has always been a bit brittle.

Source: LakesBloc

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Planet Fear St. Bees Festival - Good Idea? Bad Idea?
11 March 2011, 12:33 pm

I have now had a number of negative comments and emails shot my way regarding the forth coming Planet Fear Bouldering Festival, to be held at the crag from the 29th to 31st April. I have emailed the BMC for their view (as they apparently endorse the event, according to PF), but in the mean time I have put a poll on the the LakesBloc home page, I'd be keen for your input. Thanks.

http://www.lakesbloc.com/

Source: LakesBloc