[comPiler]

St. Bees Festival Blog Posts
16 March 2011, 4:23 pm

These 3 post have been removed for the time being whilst we try and clarify some massively contradictory information coming out of the BMC (too many cooks?), in regards to their position on this event.

Due to the implications of the BMC email quotes pasted into the aforementioned blog posts, it would be unfair on Planet Fear to leave them live until we can establish exactly what the BMC's stance on the matter is.

Source: LakesBloc

[tc]

Judging by the poll on Lakesbloc and several emails I have received, there seem to be a number of people who have serious concerns about staging a commercial event like this at St Bees. Perhaps we should widen the debate and start a dedicated thread for it in the NEWS section on the main board?
tc

[comPiler]

Woodwell Pretty Dry
28 March 2011, 6:45 pm

The word on the street suggests that the majority of Woodwell is pretty much dry, bar the usual damp breaks....

Source: LakesBloc

[comPiler]

Top 50 List: Update Time
31 March 2011, 12:32 pm

I'd quite like to update the "Top 50 Boulder Problems" list on the site (see link below), as it hasn't really had a proper overhaul for five years or so. Any recommendations for removals and replacements across the grade spread would be appreciated in the form of comments below...

Current List: www.lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html

Source: LakesBloc

[JohnM]

Slightly off topic but didn't Yellow Desert Scream initially get reported as 7C before quickly being downgraded to 7B+ which I assumed it stayed at.  I see it is 7A on your list which is quite a downgrade!

[Nigel]

Slightly off topic but didn't Yellow Desert Scream initially get reported as 7C before quickly being downgraded to 7B+ which I assumed it stayed at.  I see it is 7A on your list which is quite a downgrade!

Staying off topic (!): YDS never got 7c, it was originally given 7b+. I have since been proved wrong about this, quite comprehensively! In my defence I did it with a foolish sequence at the start - matching left foot to hand (dropped to mono) in small pocket near arete and rocking it out to the crimp using a pinch on the arete. There is a pic in an old OTE I think. An easier sequence was found and it was rightly dropped in grade. It also finishes direct over the nose. I know most people jib out left into the groove at the top, a variation I wanted to call Yellow Bellied Whimper. That too is easier than the original, and much less scary. I repeated it using the more normal foot in obvious (!) big pockets down left but still topping out direct and felt it was about 7a+.

On topic: some wonderful problems on that list! 

[JohnM]

Did YDS again today and it was much easier than I remembered and 7A+ is probably fair.  It is such an amazing problem and i'm surprised it doesn't get three stars in the new topo.

[Greg C]

As stated, the '50 best' list is out of date. YDS gets 7a+ in the new guide and on the 7&8s list, whilst Yellow Belled Whimper gets 7a.

I have a star formula: line, landing, climbing. Has to tick all these to get three stars. Landing is a bit whack, thus 2 stars.

[JohnM]

Fair enough.  What about By The Power of Raa!?  The landing is good but you hit from up to 6 metres!

[comPiler]

Planet Fear - The Corporate Express?
6 April 2011, 12:54 pm

Ok, so it looks like Planet Fear are going to go ahead with their St. Bees Bouldering festival, having decided they are unprepared to accept the views of many local activists – including a number of key developers of the area and some of the ‘founding fathers’ and equippers of the cliffs – who all think it is an ill-conceived idea (due to the fragility of the area and not wanting set a precedent for these kind events happening on the headland in future) and essentially a marketing exercise.

The assertion placed on this Blog stating that Planet Fear had no right to advertise the event as a BMC endorsed event was proven correct, and the BMC asked PF to remove the BMC logo’s and affiliation text from their website, which they have now done. In an email the BMC sent to all concerned parties, the BMC said it in no way endorsed this event, but said it could not find objection if various access protocols were adhered to.

The underlying issue Planet Fear seem to have missed is that this is NOT a suitable place for this kind of corporate event. Despite PF’s offer of a litter sweep and claims all excess funds raised from the sales of accommodation, topos, parking etc. (all via their website) will be given to the BMC/local bolt fund, this is completely unverifiable as it is an event run by a commercial business with no external governance from an impartial body – how are we supposed to know how much money has been taken?

On a personal note, I feel particularly peeved that PF are charging for a topo to St. Bees, that will, I have no doubt, be primarily ‘researched’ via my website, which I spend countless unpaid hours and litres of petrol updating. More fool me you might say.

Anyway, Planet Fear have added their own ‘Yes-No Poll’ to their Facebook page, so I suggest the people who voted on the LakesBloc Poll make their voices heard via this medium if they so wish, as I am now turning the LB poll off.  Planet Fear Poll.

For Planet Fear's current stance click here.

LakesBloc Poll Final Result (click for larger view):



Source: LakesBloc

[GCW]

I agree with you 100% on this one, Greg.

[SA Chris]

Me too, what a sack of shit.

[nik at work]

And me.

[SA Chris]

http://www.planetfear.com/events/planetFear_St_Bees_Bouldering_Festival_2115.html#comments

Sadly i expect any neagtive comments will be deleted.

[rich d]

agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this.  very poor choice of venue

[sjw]

agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this.

I'm surprised at some of the names on that list too.

[Probes]

  This is pants. How's about going to the local press Greg and getting to the wider public?

[slackline]

Would the wider public understand the issues?

[GCW]

I'm surprised that a commercial organisation such as PlanetFear would ignore a fair amount of opinion regarding this, it just smacks of arrogance and a lack of respect for the bouldering scene.

[SA Chris]

Not just bouldering, climbing as a whole; I think they intend doing the sport climbs too, and besides the non-climbing public cannot really discern a difference.

[andy popp]

agree too, can't believe 70 people have voted yes for this.

I'm surprised at some of the names on that list too.

Ditto.

I've voted nay. Personally, I think calling yourself 'Planetfear' is enough of a crime in itself.

[GCW]

I wonder if some of the BMC staff voting for this are doing so on behalf of the BMC?

[Probes]

Would the wider public understand the issues?

I think they'd understand the implications of a massive bunch of people and cars descending on the place, they obviously probably wouldnt care for the climbing, but i think they'd be a little concerned for their 'backyard' so to speak. A lot of 'rural' folk have far more interest and understanding of ecology and the effect this could have in real terms than most others. They would also be interested id thought to know it was going ahead in the face of a lot of local opposition.

[andy_e]

I can understand some of the influential people who've voted yes have done it for commercial reasons- photographers, promoters and the such, but a taking a look at the list of "no" voters is a prolific roll-call of local and national activists, some of which may have done a lot at St. Bees and others who may not have done.  A great effort in profiling the "no" campaign, Greg, and I'm fully behind you, but I think we're about to get steam-rolled by the corporation.

[Probes]

Maybe these comments should get shifted into the st bees fest thread and will be more easily viewed ?