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2011
9 January 2011, 4:23 pm

Dry days- 3

Days of rain- 6

It seems ages since I've done anything, hence the quietness on tyhe Blog Front.  The dump of snow didn't really help matters, and the subsequent thaw and rain.  But today I went out!!

I met up with the Ginnster at Wilton.  I got there a bit early so had a look around the quarries.  Essentially Wiltons 2, 3 and 4 were soaking.  I was amazed by the amount of work that has been done too, the little overhang in Wilton 2 is buried under an embankment.    When the Ginnster arrived, we headed into Wilton 1.  The only bit dry was the Graveyard area, so after traversing a bit to warm up we got stuck in.  I did 5.2% ABV and Beer Belly low starts, the Ginnster crushing Beer Belly standing start (6b area I think) and 5.2% ABV (6a+/b) pretty convincingly.  I turned my attention to The Move, one of R-man's 7a problems.  I've never got close when I've tried it before, but today I was slapping the hold most goes.  It's one of those where the target hold is a little sandy and sloping so I will need to catch it at the deadpoint.  It'll definitely go though.

After this I managed the arete eliminate to the right and a fun double dyno on smears.  And then it was time to go home.  BeardyBeast is having a WoB evening, but I'm so tired I think I'll just fall asleep somewhere.  Sorry BB, next time.

As I acheived none of my aims in 2010, most have rolled over with 2 substitutions to mix things up a bit:

1.  Buckstone Dyno

2.  Screaming Slave (Woodwell)

3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS

4.  West Side Story

5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)

6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl)

7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.

8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)

9.  Red Wall Project  Shhh, esoteric venue.

10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)

For those with any vague interest, 2010 scores were 154:211 wet vs dry.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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West View and Arse Exposure
13 January 2011, 10:23 pm

Dry days- 3

Days of rain- 10

BeardyBeast was free this evening, and after deciding that neither of us were in a fit state for the WoB we opted for Wet Poo Leisure Centre.  After picking Blob 1 up from Rainbows I headed over, arriving at 8.  It's up to 6 quid a pop now, and it was heaving and far too hot.  

I warmed up on the easier stuff, then flashed a few V4s and V5s.  I should have flashed one of the 6s but totally missed a foothold out, dunce.  I felt pretty tired quite quickly, so gave up on the harder stuff.  I tried a V5 in the cave, which involved a stretch for a foothold and RIP!!  I managed to flash it, but when I came down I realised my trousers had torn down the seam and my arse was hanging out.  Just perfect.

After this I watched BeardyBeast on the crush, then we headed home.  I feel pretty weak, stamina is somewhat lacking.  Oh well, 12 months to get stronger and tick some elusive aims.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Return to the WoB
16 January 2011, 10:27 pm

Dry days- 3

Days of rain- 13

It has rained incessantly recently, and it's starting to annoy me somewhat.  I had planned to try to get outside today, but it rained all day until late afternoon.  Despite Mrs Beast being ill, the BeardyBeast was keen for a WoB session so I headed over.

I have to say, the warm ups felt hard and I felt weak.  Looking back I've been to the WoB for months, and it showed.  My footwork was worse than normal, and that is really saying something.  My skin got pretty sore after a while, and what small amounts of power I had to start with disappeared pretty quickly.

It was a reasonable session in the end, but certainly demonstrated training needs.  2011 will need to be a year of effort, there are aims to acheive.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Blood on your Hands
27 January 2011, 7:22 pm

Dry days- 9

Days of rain- 18

Been rather quiet of late, mainly as I haven't been out at all.  A good start to 2011, especially with the aims that have been set.  This morning I managed to get out for a couple of hours.  I wasn't sure whether to try one of my esoteric projects, but after a text exchange with the Ginnster (who thought the place would be wet) I headed back to Wilton 1.

It was -2 when I arrived, with some attempts at snow.  Warming up at the Graveyard area took a while.  Eventually I got on The Move, and it felt better today.  Several time I nearly held the sloper, only for my left foot to pop.  I was confident of victory, but then caught my hand as I slapped for the hold, and blood was spilled.  The Move won again.

I wandered down to the Snakey B area.  I did the LH version first go, it's far easier than it used to be- probably 6b+/c area.  After this I mad a look at Thulsa Doom, the high traverse.  The last bit has always stumped me but today I managed it using the undercut sequence of Snakey B original and some slapping.  I tried to link the whole thing, failing repeatedly on the transition to get established on the overlap.  

And then I had to leave, so there remains unfinished business.  I will have to head back, although I think getting out will be a bit difficult for a while.  Only time will tell.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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New Mat
8 February 2011, 10:32 pm

Dry days- 16

Days of rain- 23

Tonight I headed to Wet Poo to meet the Ginnster.  After spending 10 minutes trying to park, watching fools trying to negotiate the car park in their cars, I was in.  TanMan was there already.  The Ginnster was stuck at reception trying to explain who he was, and trying to convince them he wasn't some IRA faction member.  After heading back to the car to collect my shitty boots, I got stuck in.

This set feels stiff.  I flashed a few V4s, and did some V5s, but in general it all felt tough.  TanMan was crushing as ever.  Later on Weak Sam arrived with his bad fingers, and proceded to make everything look easy.  The stamina and skin started to let me down.

After giving up, having had enough of failure, I negotiated with the TanMan and came out of it one mat better off.  And then it was home time, and BT internet setting up.

Happy Birthday to the BeardyBeast by the way.  TanMan was surprised you were under 50........

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Bolts?
16 February 2011, 6:14 pm

Dry days- 21

Days of rain- 26

Weak Sam phoned me today to say there appears to be a new bolt/ hangar in the Shelterstone, left of Vitruvian.  I don't remember there being anything there before, but he said there was an inch thread protruding from near the ground.  The Stone was pretty dry though.  I'll have to investigate whenever I'm next free.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Weakness and sore skin
19 February 2011, 5:46 pm

Dry days- 22

Days of rain- 28

At last I had a free weeekend, but typically the weather was gash.  Rain all night, and rain tomorrow.  After an exchange with the BeardyBeast we opted for a Wet Pooh visit from 13:00.

I was a bit early, and as I was walking from the car park I met Weak Sam.  We had a chat for half an hour until the Bearded One arrived, watching him take a tour of the car park before deciding on a space.  After saying goodbye to Weak Sam we headed in for some Uber Crush.

BeardyBeast was looking as strong as ever, flashing most of the stuff to V7.  I managed to flash a few of the new things up to V5, mostly in the cave.  I also managed the awkward red V5 thatI failed on last time.  This lot of problems still feels pretty tough.

After 2 hours and a failed chocolate break our skin was trashed and we were knackered, so opted to leave.  I hope this weather improves soon, I need to get stronger and get some contact with real rock. There's aims to acheive.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Sore skin and Weakness
23 February 2011, 8:41 am

Dry days- 24

Days of rain- 30

Last night I met up with The Ginnster and BeardyBeast at Wet Poo for some more amazing crush. After touring the parking for 15 minutes I finally got a space and headed in, only to find the place packed out.

Weak Sam was there warming up so the usual chat ensued.  We were amused about his deletion from the latest South Lakes lists of 1st ascents and repeats, I assume following his reticence to be named when repeating hard stuff.  He seemed quite pleased in his way, although I'm still to be convinced that keeping quiet is the best policy- but that's up to him.

Anyway, BeardyBeast and the Ginnster had brought psyche by the teaspoon full.  Amazing.  I managed the stupid red V5 I failed on last time, plus the tan V5/6 at the right end.  I managed to fall off the Tan V5 on the low overlap from the last move, several times.  Bloody annoying.  I have quite a few things to go back to.  But once again I felt my skin was sore, and I just felt weak.  At least I managed to wear my tightest Boosters for an hour, a major acheivement- maybe they are finally stretching.

On a plus side, I see TanMan is holding an Evolv masterclass tomorrow at Wet Poo.  We were tempted to go along to learn, for example about tick marks ;-).  Hope it goes OK, Tanners.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Buckstone Misery
25 February 2011, 9:22 pm

Dry days- 25

Days of rain- 31

On the way back from The Old Man's I dropped in at a damp Buckstone.  Nothing was dry really. I jumped on the Buckstone Dyno and was miles off, but then I moved the right foot to an equally wet smear.  Then I was tickling the hild, basically getting one pad over thwe hold.  I really felt I wasn't getting the power through thw left foot, thus the lack lack of distance.  Anyway, I ended up tired and out of time so I sacked it, and did thje groove.  One to go bzck to- I find this hard for a 7b dyno, maybe my legs are too long.  Well, crush next time maybe.............

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Ouch
26 February 2011, 7:09 pm

Dry days- 26

Days of rain- 31

Last night I chopped the end off my left middle finger whilst chopping spinach.  What a tit.  Boulsering will be out for a little while.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[cheque]

Fuck! Hope that heals up quick.

[robertostallioni]

No picture? Maybe this is just Karma for all the good luck you've received lately G. 

Get well soon big boy.

There's nobody to pull holds off those boulsers now.

[GCW]

boulsers

 

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Wilton One
2 March 2011, 7:52 pm

Dry days- 29

Days of rain- 32

It was sunny this afternoon when I was off so I took myself to Wilton for a rematch.  Chunks of fingertape to the injured finger seemed to do the trick, although it hurt like hell.  When I arrived I was appalled by the amount of chalk caked all over the graveyard buttress, along with tick marks and fingertape on the floor.  I tidied up as best as I could then moved to Snakey B wall.

I jumped on Thulsa Doom as a warm up, not the best plan as it was cold and I had forgotten the sequence.  After a few goes I remembered how to do the first half, then surprised myself by getting into position for the crux move on Snakey B Original.  This was a gutbuster move to pull the greasy undercut from chest level to hip level.  One move better than ever, but I kept popping off the left hand undercut.  Over and over.  In the end I gave up on it and moved back to the graveyard.

The Move.  Is this really 7a?  It's a single move that is nails.  Today I was closer than ever, and on a few occasions semi held the finishing hold until my foot popped.  Frustrating.  I even tried a left heel/ right toe combo to try to squeeze the rib, but it was super committing and also felt harder.  In the end I sacked it and did some of the eliminates on the Graveyard Slab then went home.

Please don't use loads of chalk all over the place on the Graveyard area, a lot of it doesn't get soaked by the rain so it doesn't wash off so well.  Let's not get into the habit of it.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Chalkstorms
6 March 2011, 5:51 pm

Dry days- 33

Days of rain- 32

A run of dry weather marked a return to Wilton One this morning.  I was amazed to find that now the entire graveyard overhang AND graveyard slab were coated in chalk.  FFS people, there is no need!

Basically I spent an hour failing to hold the sloper on The Move, although I was even closer than last time.  This is by far the most sessions on a meagre 7a, utterly nails.  After that I had a look at Thulsa Doom.  I managed to link into the crux of Snakey B original and was surprised that I managed the move up into the undercuts.  I had the next left hand hold, then got the finishing jug.... and fell off.  I swore like a trooper. It had felt OK, I had it in the bag.  Failure snatched from the jaws of success.   Aaaaarse.  Subsequent efforts failed at the move into the undercut.

Bit of a mixed day really.  Progress of sorts, but a good deal of frustration.  The finger was still sore but better, so I hope when that heals I'll nail these two Wilton seiges.  A long way to go for the aims for 2011.  7c?  I ain't holding my breath.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Tit.  Field.
13 March 2011, 7:49 pm

Dry days- 36

Days of rain- 36

Today dawned drizzly, although the MetOffice said it would dry up later.  The Doc and her Boys were keen to get out so we risked a trip to Brimham, always child friendly.  It drizzled a bit on the way over but the sun came out over Summerbridge.

We had a wander about, the Boys clambering everywhere.  The Black Chipper Arete SDS was dry (ish), although Titfield was wet.  I wandered back to the car and picked up some kit.  After warming up on, erm Black Chipper Arete SDS, I managed the slap move for the first time.  Progress.  The next move, RH guppy on the Arete, eluded me. Then I realised I just had to push harder with the right toe.  And then I did the move.  I spent a while slapping away at the next move, until I rememebered I had to swap feet.  And then that move was done.

So, all the moves done.  I set up the HV20 for the crush.  The first move, LH slap, was a formality.  The next move to get the RH guppy eluded me.  Close, very close in fact, but no cigar.  Repeat this process for an hour, you get the idea.

Titfield Thunderbolt.  After developing holes in all my LH tips, I moved to Titfield.  Now, I can reach the good LH sidepull from the ground.  Is that cheating?  I've asked on UKB to check.  ANyway, I can pull on and then muck about.  I managed to get the high "crimp" a few times, but fell off swapping feet about.  i think this will go (assuming the start is legit).  

I'm quite psyched to get out and do stuff now.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Aaaaaarrrrrggggghhhh.
16 March 2011, 8:30 pm

Dry days- 39

Days of rain- 36

An hour spare.  Wilton.  Failure.  

The long version is that I went to Wilton One, straight to the Snakey B wall. The place was full of fog/ mist and conditions weren't ideal.  I did Baby Fae and Snakey B LH for the camera.  I think the former is more font 6a+ and the latter is much easier than it used to be before holds broke- 6c maybe.  I had a look at doing Snakey B Original but failed to get into the undercut due to repeatedly greasing out of it.  

I tried Thulsa Doom again, finding the firsdt half OK now.  Today I kept slipping out of the undercut move, it wasn't to be.  I wandered to look at the Hacker etc but it was all wet so I gave it up and headed off.

Project Seige it would seem.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Poorly timed Precipitation
20 March 2011, 7:11 pm

Dry days- 42

Days of rain- 37

It's been superb weather all week, but I've had stuff to do.  However, today I was free and keen as mustard to get out.  Speaking to Yon Bearded One last night, he suggested a meet at the Kebs which I readily agreed to.  The time was set for 10:30 so I went to bed in childish expectation.

I awoke this morning to drizzle.  Bastard shitting drizzle.  After a conflab with BB over the medium of UKB (the GayPhone is still U/S and awaiting the insurance people to sort stuff out) I ended up heading to Wet Pooh, whilst the Beardy Beast had family duties.

I spent a pleasant 2 hours of failure, although I did the Tan V5 that I failed on in the last couple of sessions.  I felt a little better today, despite the frustration with atmospheric conditions.  I felt pretty battered by the end of the session, which can only be good.

After a shower and a change of clothes back home, the Doc and I headed out to look for family friendly vehicles.  Basically we ended up by getting her a Volvo XC90, by part ex-ing her pride and joy soft top.  I haven't broken the news to her that I can fit a lot of mats in the boot.....

After this we had a walk up to Stronstrey.  David Vetter is getting pretty green again, a line lost to nature.  In a way I quite like that in a way.  I spent all that time creating it out of the slime, and now it returns back to the slime.  What did precipitate hypertension was some fucking arse has been dry tooling there- the wall right of Cackhanded Compliment where the Tony Bland problems are is scratched to fuck.  Whoever you are, don't ever let me catch you doing it again.

And breathe.....

I hope next week I can get out in the evening, I'll have to see what the Ginnster and the BeardyBeast are up to.  Bring on the year of crush.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Probes]

Poorly timed Precipitation
20 March 2011, 7:11 pm

 What did precipitate hypertension was some fucking arse has been dry tooling there- the wall right of Cackhanded Compliment where the Tony Bland problems are is scratched to fuck.  Whoever you are, don't ever let me catch you doing it again.
.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

         

[rginns]

 

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Cadshaw Rematch
23 March 2011, 7:59 pm

Dry days- 45

Days of rain- 37

I was on my way to teaching this morning but I was made very late by the M6 being busy, so ended up sacking it off as a bad plan.  As nobody else was free I headed to Cadshaw for a look at one of my remaining projects.  It was hot, and sunny.  When I got to the Red Wall I found it was dry, but still with that greasiness that the red rock has.

I tried my sit start to the jump to the jug on the right arete, which I did from standing last year.  I wasn't making much progress really.  Then it struck me to try the wall directly.  Brian Jacques start seated then uses the left arete to finish right again.  I'd always dismissed the direct as the 2 edges are pretty rubbish and I've never managed to pull on them before.  Today I managed to pull on, and the idea was there to be made reality.  It took a while to get near the LH higher edge, but eventually I latched it- my feet cut loose at that point and I wasn't able to hold the edge.  After a few more goes, I latched it again and then manaaged to slap my way up the rest of it.  Rivers of Blood was done, I reckon 7a although it's so conditions dependant it could be a bit inaccurate.  I then worked the sitter, one move stopped me but I think this will go, felt in the 7b/+ ballpark.

After this my skin was a bit ragged so I wandered off to Brownstones, which turned out to be scorching in the sun.  LifeLine sitter was in poor condition and felt hard, I couldn't even pull onto Groundhog SDS so I headed to Ridiculous Dyno, which I stikll don't have on HD film.  I always seem to try this on super hot days, although today I held the finish for a few seconds on my 4th try.  Then I spent another half hour failing to do it.  Arse. Once it made holes in my skin I gave it up and wandered home.

So I still have my original Cadshaw project to do, although it's not as pure a line as the potential sitter to RoB.  I will grow some skin and head back pover sometime.

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Negative Progress
27 March 2011, 6:06 pm

Dry days- 49

Days of rain- 37

Today I went out with the BeardyBeast and Lard.  We bumbled off to Woodwell, where there was only the three of us quite surprisingly.  The edge on BOBN is very wobbly, I suspect it's not far from coming off.  I had a look at Screaming Slave, which is on my list for the year.  Last year I finally managed to nail the move to the lip, so I was confident that today was the tick day.  But no!  It felt hard, the left heel wasn't working and I never held the lip.  Arse.

BeardyBeast did it with consummate ease once he worked out where to put his foot and dropped his knee enough.  Git.  He then got very close to doing AOSD, fingers on the jug using the jump method.  You need to MTFU next time.....

We had a look at the middle section, me failing to do any moves on a damp Not Bad Dave and BeardyBeast child herding.  I then failed on the last move of Whistler Direct, weird problem that it is.  The it was Cream Tea time.

After refreshments (I didn't get given butter with my scone/jam/cream combo, so had to have sugar in my tea as a means of recompense) we went to Hyning Wood.  We were both tired and my skin was sore, so I failed to do all the moves on the first half of Transgenics, BeardyBeast didn't seem happy on the full link either.

So there we go, the first proper Lime day of 2011.  Shite.  But it's the first day, so there's time yet.  And the clocks have leaped forwards, so I hope to get out in the evenings.

As an aside, BeardyBeast is going to be doing private climbing tutorage so if you're as shit as me an The Ginnster then I'm sure you could pay him to make you into a rock God.  Or at least give you tips on beard trimming.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[robertostallioni]

As an aside, etc

[Jaspersharpe]

Yes indeed and I've found some World exclusive photographic evidence of Nik's groundbreaking new coaching techniques in action!



http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/

[robertostallioni]

Thats not what he had me do

We had a look at the middle section, me failing to do any moves on a damp Not Bad Dave and BeardyBeast child herding.  I then failed on the last move of Whistler Direct, weird problem that it is.  The it was Cream Tea time.