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Back on the Crescent
26 August 2010, 4:30 pm

Days of rain- 87

Dry days- 151

After work I had planned to head to Silverdale but by the time I got away it was too late.  I ended up heading to Jumbles to try to get my problems on film.  I arrived at 15:30, and it was mostly dry.

I did Sit Thee Down again, then tried The Crescent of Embrace.  I was hoping that the Font Power would see it go down OK, but it felt hard.  Very crimpy and very snatchy (well, for me at least).  It took a good 90 minutes of trying for me to finally nail the thing.  I didn't bother going to the top this time as it was dirty, and the top's easy and superfluous.  I reckon 7b+ is more accurate for this thing.  BeardyBeast said he may go and do it (and add the obvious sitter) so I'd be keen to hear a grade opinion.

Video of The Cresent... and FLight 93 (the French Start to Crescent):



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Burbage South Herding
30 August 2010, 7:22 pm

Days of rain- 89

Dry days- 153

The Lank Family headed to Burbage South to meet the BeardyFamily, and Rick and Mike's bunch.  First reunion since Font at Easter.  As an aside it sounds like there may be an issue with the Easter 2011 trip, although research is underway.

The Boss did the slab on the boulder next to Crash n Gurn, and played on a few other things- definitely better at trusting her feet and thinking about body position.  I did a few of the easier problems, then tried Crash N Gurn with Rick.  After a few goes I got the timing again and did it a couple of times in a row.  We also had a play on the Sheep Crack, Rick making it look easy whilst I struggled on it as usual.  We tried Talk To Me Martin, Rick catching the higher RH hold.  I was locking from the RH (or trying to) and going with my left to the pebble.  Both of us felt that it may be OK if conditions were better.  

After some food BeardyBeast and I went to look at the Rib.  I tried half a dozen times and every go I was getting to the stage of stepping my RF up to get positioned for the last move.  I can't see my feet, so I never got anywhere.  I think I need to bring my LF further right so I can open up in balance and see what I'm doing.

In the end everyone had a go at the traverse on the Armoured Car, which was nice.  The traverse L-R without the top was a bit tougher, I didn't manage today.  I managed to tolerate the pain and tick Tiger- surely this is too unpleasant to be "classic"?  Then Rick, BeardyBeast and I tried a silly dyno from the top edge of Panzer to the boulder to the right.  After a comedy (and close to injury) first try, BeardyBeast did it- very silly.

So after some food at the Fox House (much improved since I last went) we took the tired Blobs home.  Hopefully I'll get out in the evenings this week, work allowing, as I'm keen to get up to Silverdale.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Sequence  Dunce
31 August 2010, 7:39 pm

Days of rain- 89

Dry days- 154

It seems that TanMan went to Jumbles today (I don't know why!!) and did (well, flashed) Crescent stand up.  I got a text whilst at work saying he'd been and crushed, plus added the squat start from the right hand sidepull.  He seemed to think that the sitter was worth 7b, so I was surprised I'd found the thing so nails.  Must be the age I thought.

I got home to find the Boss sickly.  After getting the Blobs in bed I forced myself to go for a run.  I didn't want to, I think I'd pulled my left calf a bit at Burbage, but my weight was up to 85.0kg at the Monday weigh in so I had to do something.  I did my local circuit, felt quite good and thought I'd got a good time- in the end I managed 30:24 for the 5.8km.

When I got back I had a text from TanMan saying he'd seen my Crescent video and wasn't surprised I'd thought it was 7b+.  I'm fascinated to see how he did it.  Hopefully I'm not as shit as I thought (although that's unlikely).  Woodwell tomorrow after work to meet Scraggadoo for bouldering and mat inspection (and hopefully sale)- the Boss won't be happy if I come back with that mat.  May have a look at Screaming Slave again, or maybe Not Bad Dave.  I'll see what time I get there and how busy it is.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Greasy, but progress made
1 September 2010, 7:57 pm

Days of rain- 89

Dry days- 155

After work I met up with Scraggadoo at Tom's buttress (nice to meet another UKBer).  It was all pretty greasy, but I did the usual sub 7a stuff then forgot my sequence to What's This For...  After this I almost-held the lip on Screaming Slave, which is becoming another frustrating problem.  I know I can do it though.  After this I had a look at Not Bad Dave, but the crimp was caning the skin on my right hand.  I managed toget the left heel on, slap the LH sloper then miss the flatty though so that's a bit better.  Once I grow somw skin I may need to head back.

Still got the mat, and I can see how people aren't keen on it.  It's a bit big, not as thick or well made as some newer pads (I much prefer my Highballs) and not worth it when you can buy a new mat for a bit more.  I think I'll leave it in the shed (the Boss can live with it a bit longer) and gauge any interest.  If someone offers a fair price and a good home I may go for that, can't be arsed with eBay.  Either that or I can buy a bigger car that will fit the pad in.  I doubt the Boss will go for that argument.  She's more likely to suggest a bigger house so I can leave the pad in the loft!!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Crap at running
2 September 2010, 7:13 pm

Days of rain- 89

Dry days- 155

After work I went for a run.  It was HOT!  I set off a bit too fast I think, conditions didn't help.  I made good progress until teh muddy hill of misery, then had to walk all the way up the mud hill.  Bonk.  In the end I did the 5.8km in 31:51, so I think it would be under 30 minutes if I hadn't walked.  Oh well.

A big up to Fiend who ticked his first F8a after having all the health issues with extensive proximal DVTs.  Fantastic effort.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Weight Training
6 September 2010, 8:41 pm

Days of rain- 90

Dry days- 158

The Old Man has been visiting so out of politeness I haven't been out.  Basically it's been work/ family/ food.  Then on Saturday we went to a friend's 50th, and had a few drinks.  I haven't had Newcastle Brown for years!  Back home I managed to spill a glassful of red wine on our white sofa, smashing the glass too.  Then one of our friends sat on one of our wooden chairs causing it to collapse in a very amusing comedy style.

Saturday was spent lifting most of the flooring in Blob 1's room and attempting to re-wire the kitchen lights.  Theoretically there was no way they could be broken in the pattern they were, but after checking connections and updating the wiring we could get to all 4 are working.  But for how long?

Off on a course Wed/Thursday, maybe a WoB session with BeardyBeast on Thursday night.  Need to get out on the Lime again.  And get running too- Monday am weigh in was 84.2kg this week.  Tut tut.  Now where's that Jura gone?

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Rain Bas***d Rain
11 September 2010, 10:54 am

Days of rain- 93

Dry days- 160

Typically the weather's turned duff now it's the weekend.  I had the potential time to get to Silverdale today, but the rain has put pay to that.  My right hand still feels tweaky too, so the rest probably isn't too bad.

This morning I went to Cadshaw in the pissing rain and did the 7.8km run.  I felt awful from about 1/3 of the way in and it was a struggle to keep going.  I was pleased just to make to make it round without walking, i don't think puddle dodging helped.  ANyway, I was amazed to find I'd done it in 38:05 which is 2 minutes quicker than the previous PB.  It's also 12.29km/h which is the quickest I've ever done (on any route) as far as I know.  Wow.  That was also one of my running aims this year- along with Winter Hill at 10km/h and the local 5.8km in under 30 minutes.  I may also be doing a 10kmh in November, so I may try to get that done in under 50 minutes.

And now I'm off to meet the Boss to look at Bunk Beds for Blobs.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Knackered
15 September 2010, 9:12 pm

Days of rain- 97

Dry days- 160

The bed men arrived at 7am, so I was instantly put to work by the Boss.  By the time I left for work one bed was pretty much done.  At lunch a swift 45 minutes saw it finished, then after work the whole thing was done.  Both Blobs are now asleep in the same room, and I'm having a beer and feeling battered after making up some curry powder.

This weather is shit.  And I seem to be full of the lurgy, which could be worse if it were decent conditions.  I've signed up for a 10km in November, so I'm keen to get running and then aim for a good time.  And it's all for charity.  So running for the moment, and if it ever stops raining I may get to caress dome rock.

In the meantime here's the best metal track in existence:



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Jim]

I prefer blind bleeding the blind myself

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WoB again
16 September 2010, 10:53 pm

Days of rain- 98

Dry days- 160

After more room re-arranging this morning, I spent the first bit of the afternoon in banks.  The second half involved picking up Blob 1 from school and trying to sort out her earache.  She was obviously feeling rough as she went to sleep on the sofa whilst I sorted tea.

Tonight I went over to the WoB.  I was going to go on the bike but the battery wasn't playing, I think the months of sitting there flat have killed it.  I got there just after 8pm, the Ginnster arrived soon afterwards.  I had an OK session, felt pretty weak from the virus and the DIY.  Skin got sore near the end so we did some silly stuff.  The Ginnster was looking stronger/ better with his feet.  

Just for Jim, here's the second best metal track (although as an album Blessed are the Sick is better):



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Cadshaw
17 September 2010, 8:45 pm

Days of rain- 98

Dry days- 161

After work I met up with The Ginnster at Cadshaw.  I felt post-Man flu and Ginnster was just making excuses.  I felt quite good on the run, and there were some nice clouds to look at whilst I waited for the Ginnster.  Basically, 7.8km in 41:07.  I am very sure I can do 38 minutes again which is good, and makes me want to try Winter Hill again to step up to the 10km/h target.

I've run over 100km since starting in July, which for me is quite good.  So I now have the aokm on the 14th November to aim for.  Plus the 2 other running targets.  And a big pile of targets for bouldering.  I just neeed to get my flabby ass in gear.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Rubicon dampness
19 September 2010, 7:09 pm

Days of rain- 100

Dry days- 161

I headed over to the Peak today.  It had pissed down all night, and continued to do so this morning.  It was still pissing down when I headed East to meet up with LagerStarFish.  We had planned a Curbar meet, but what with the weather this was modified to a Rubicon meet.

I've been to Rubicon once, must be over 10 years ago, and it was flooded so I didn't do much and didn't come away with a very positive opinion.  When I arrived I noticed Rick's Saab was there, so I wasn't surprised when the second thing I saw was Rick.  The first thing was Lagers, no mistaking the man in the flesh.  We all had a play on the up problems in the cave bit.  To me, it all felt a bit slimy but I was told conditions were good.  The Copleys were there trying some dumb eliminate on the traverses area.  I was going to ask what the BOBN extension was that they had logged on 8a.nu- I don't know of a recognised 7c+ version- but I didn't.  Beardy Beast and Mini Beast arrived soon after.

After ths warm up I failed on A Miller's Tale, which felt hard to me.  Then I failed on A Bigger Tail, which the Beardy Beast did.  We played on A Bigger Splash Direct, which I got close to but couldn't work out the feet.  By then it was time for Lagers to go, so we did our exchange.  I ended up with some fish too, which was nice.  The Beardy pair and I went to Outside.  I had a look at a new rucksack but the selection was limited.  Beardy Beast had a look at Western grit to ensure that Boldness Through Ignorance was really E8 (hero!!!) then we went for tea.  They didn't have any pint mugs left (gutted), then after this I headed home.  

After a fish tea, accompanied by a potato curry I rustled up (went very nicely together) we've had some wine and are going to watch some crap on telly.  Not looking forward to the Monday morning weigh in.  Anyway, a fun day despite the rain.  And thanks to Lagers for the best Fish I've had for a long time!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Projects projects everywhere
22 September 2010, 11:03 am

Days of rain- 101

Dry days- 163

I was going to go to the Kebs this morning after dropping the Blobs off, but a truck on fire on the M6 caused total gridlock on the M6/A6/M65/M61 axis.  It was 9:30 by the time I got Blob 2 to nursery so there was no way I was going to get to the Kebs.  I took a load of back roads, which were fairly traffic free, and ended up at Cadshaw.

When I got to the Red Wall it was a little damp, so I spent a little time weeding, brushing and drying.  Having spoken to R-man repviously I had another idea of sequences for my project that I was keen to try.  NOt ideal conditions, but the pop to the jug certainly felt more controlled and thus easier to catch if I actually got it.  The only downside is that I was having to use the left heel (as for Brian Jacques) to get LH up to the sloping edge, and I had conceived the problem as avoiding the left arete.  Oh well, minor detail.  After a while the sharp edges tore my skin and the midges were annoying so I wandered to look at Cadshaw Castle Rocks.

The river was high so I didn't bother goign up to it, but there's an arete at the right end that looks like it'd be a nice problem.  I may take some wellies next time adnd go and explore.  Lunchtime now, then off to work.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Feeling old
23 September 2010, 10:08 pm

Days of rain- 102

Dry days- 163

Thursdays.  A day that I don't have much on, but I need to be in work from 11:30 until 14:00.  Which kinda kills the day.  I dropped Blob 1 off at school, then Blob 2 at nursery.  It was then 9:30, so I opted for the very English thing- soft boiled eggs, soldiers, leaf tea and some reading.  Lovely.  Then I nipped to the post office to send all my micro wires away, some to the North and some to Cheshire.

After work, I had to wind myself up to get motivated to run.  I wanted to run at least twice a week, but the last 2 weeks it's been once.  I went out on the local bog hill 5.8km route, feeling tired almost straight away.  I ran the whole way, 31:32 was my reward.  Crap.  The 30 minute barrier is miles away.  

Back home I spent the evening ferrying Blobs to Rainbows and cooking up meals to freeze for the Blobs.  Exciting life, eh?  I've just spent an hour getting to another World on Mario, after my previous efforts were wiped by a friend's kids, meaning I had to start from scratch.  Saturday the Ginnster may head to Kentmere, I may be allowed out (if I can find parking there upon arrival).  There's a couple of things I'd like to try again.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Damp Kentmere
25 September 2010, 3:52 pm

Days of rain- 103

Dry days- 164

Last night we had tea at a friends, and as we were staying over we had some drinks.  Today we were awoken by 2 sets of children jumping on us.  Great start, as I'd agreed to meet the Ginnster at Kentmere at 11.  I was there just before that, so wandered up to Little Font.  I wasn't feeling at my best and enthusiasm was low.  I had the traditional look at Bass Line Venom, and this time I was managing to pull on but then my right heel was popping.  I didn't have my heel hooking boots with me so I left it and went and did Blow Yer Ballast.  There was a lake under the rest of the boulder, so after falling off the first move of Karma of Trees, being put off by the rotting sheep next to it, I went to Badger's Rock.

I did a few eliminates on the steep face, then lay on my mat to recover.  After this I had a look at the lower face, which also had a lake under it.  I had a play on the lower Arete sitter, which I've never managed to this day.  Today I found a painful pocket on the right and was able to link from the sitter by crimping the f*ck out of it and slapping up with the left hand.  I set up the HV20 ready for a proper try, and the Ginnster arrived.  12:30, and apparently he had a fun time getting there.  I managed to cruise into the stand up and found the good flatties were greasy and dirty and so I failed to get the boss on the arete that marks Victory.  Ass.  And the foul pocket had trashed my skin.

We went back to Little Font and struggled on The Way.  Then I did Blow Yer Ballast again and the Ginnster did it pretty quickly, certainly looking stronger.  By that time I had to head for home, so the Ginnster decided he'd head up to Chapel Stile.  Plenty of pleasant easier problems to wander around and enjoy.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Sore Skin
28 September 2010, 10:40 pm

Days of rain- 105

Dry days- 165

I went to the WoB tonight, a bit of a last minute plan.  The Boss OKd my application but it was after 7 when I was free.  Having planned ahead I had charged the bike battery enough to get it going, so had a ride over to Chez BeardyBeast.  I had an OK session, energy levels were low and skin was sore.  I don't feel any stronger and the footwork tonight was the worst for ages.  So, these sessions are obviously beneficial...

I was greatly pleased that the bike started and I rode home in the pissing rain.  The forecast this week isn't great, so I'm not hopeful of getting out.  It's been cold recently, so is Johnny Brown awakening from his slumber in the carboard box full of straw?  Could it be..... grit season?!?

On a sadder note, Kurt Albert has been injured in a fall.  News seems a bit vague but here's hoping for a recovery.  Legend.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Battered knees
29 September 2010, 7:48 pm

Days of rain- 106

Dry days- 165

The sad news came that Kurt Albert has died, the end of a legend.  Very, very sad.

Once the Blobs were sorted I was free to go for a run.  The downside being it was dark.  It's getting to that time of year when the evenings are closing in, which means I can't get out bouldering except at weekends.  Rather limiting and may well impact on my 7c goal.

Anyway, I looked at the maps for a 10km route that was lit.  Up and down the A6 was the best option so I worked out a route that was pretty much bang on 10km.  I did it whilst listening to Faure's Requiem then Hitch Hiker's.  I managed 54:30 (average just over 11km/h) which is about what I'd hoped.  The route is a bit up and down (100m ascent), more so than the charity 10km I hope.

Speaking of which, the Charity Page is up and running (not entirely finished yet), so if anyone wishes to donate (it's NSPCC as the entry fees go to Children in Need).  The website is here.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Weather Woes
3 October 2010, 8:33 pm

Days of rain- 109

Dry days- 166

The weather has been crap.

On Friday I managed to do a one arm lock off on a 1 1/2" edge.  First time for everything.

Yesterday it was Blob 2's birthday party.  Beardy Family came along to show off Triathlon skills.  Even Nemo came for coffee and a cake, a great surprise.  Even more surprising he stood the noise for so long.

I've done shit all this week, other than drink.  Weigh in tomorrow will be fun.  Here's to a dry week, woth some training.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Bad  Knee
4 October 2010, 8:06 pm

Days of rain- 109

Dry days- 167

It didn't rain today for a change.  After work I headed out on the 10km run.  My left knee has been sore the last few days, although to be fair it's never really been right since I tweaked it on Magic Bus.  It was also dark and windy and I was knackered, so the time was 57:35.  No the best.  Monday morning weigh in was 85.3kg too.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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McMurray's
5 October 2010, 9:32 pm

Days of rain- 109

Dry days- 168

Busy day at work, but I got permission from the Boss to get out this evening.  Both Ginnster and BeardyBeast had other things to do.  I went to Wet Poo for the first time in ages.  My left knee was hurting like mad when stepping high onto the inside edge.  This fits with my previous assessment of pain on external rotation and valgus stress in 30 degree flexion.  Hmmm, could be worrying.

I felt crap tonight and it was hot and greasy.  I did most of the V5s, should have flashed most of them.  Still a couple to go at.  The V6s felt quite hard to me.  It didn't help that I got pumped pretty quickly so most of the session involved fighting to stay on.  Poor really.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Dangle Dangle Dangle
8 October 2010, 7:25 pm

Days of rain- 110

Dry days- 170

Not much to report.  Work work at the moment.  Tonight I was going to go to Wet Poo, but BeardyBeast was complaining of a painful wrist (uh hu) and the Ginnster was "tired".  IN the end the Boss came home at 19:45, and I hadn't eaten so I got a curry out the freezer and dangled on the fingerbored a bit.  Not a structured session, just various Bachars, touches, back 3 hangs, assisted 1 arm dangles etc.  Productive?  Dunno.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Bad knee, tweaky hand
13 October 2010, 10:36 pm

Days of rain- 111

Dry days- 174

Not much activity in the Lank camp recently.  Saturday revolved around Blob herding, and Sunday we all went to Drayton Manor.  My left knee has been pretty bad so I've had to give it some rest and I was itching to get something done.  Yesterday I picked up the PowerBall for the first time in a while and blasted out a 12,542.  Now it's only 13 better than my previous record, but it's an improvement and that's all that matters.

Tonight I had an invite to the WoB and as the SexPest was going, I thought I'd give it a go despite the knee.  We had a beer (thanks, Stallion) and 2 hours on the board.  I don't think I did a whole problem but any exercise is good.  BeardyBeast was his usual crushing self, and the Pest was no slouch.  Unfortunately, The Ginnster had a pocket full of excuses so we did not benefit from his tutoring.

All in all not a bad session.  I think I've tweaked my right wrist though, aching a bit.  I shall have to see how it goes tomorrow.  I'm off tomorrow afternoon but there's a high likelihood of school duties, so I may not get out.  There's always the Denham Traverse I suppose, keep me occupied for an hour.  Then I hope I'll get out at the weekend, but I don't know where.  Maybe Earl for a try at my first 2010 aim tick.  Not looking good this year.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Burled Out
15 October 2010, 9:37 pm

Days of rain- 113

Dry days- 174

News reaches me that the slot hold on Poison at Warton has broken again, resulting in a smaller hold and making it harder.  I guess I may have to head up at some point to try it again, although that last move was the stopper for me.  Could turn into an epic seige!

It rained all day today.  The knee was still sore today, so I had planned to have a session at West View.  BeardyBeast dropped me a PM to say he was having a WoB session, so after Blobs were in bed I headed over.  I think we both felt a bit battered after Wednesday so tonight's session wasn't the most productive.  I managed to do a few problems and towards the end felt that my crappy footwork was a tad better.  Not saying much I admit.

I'm home now with battered skin.  Sunday I have a pass to go out, but as yet I've no idea where.  I'm tempted to head to Earl to try Sloping Beauty.  I'd go to the Cliff but I can't face going there when it's busy.  I don't know why not, but I like to be able to try something in my own time and not have to queue.  I find busy crags break that relationship with the rock, dilute it.  Get in the way of the interaction I suppose.  Plus I feel a prat filming stuff when other people are there.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Usual Earl Performance
17 October 2010, 6:43 pm

Days of rain- 114

Dry days- 176

This morning I headed to Earl.  Jim was Caley bound, and I would have gone along except I didn't have very long out.  I'd almost forgotten that Earl is only 40 minutes from home, 20-30 less than Caley/the Cliff depending on traffic.

Earl.  A crag I've never really got along with.  I don't know why not, but I've never managed anything harder than 6c as far as I recall.  I've always felt a lack of psyche when I go, and it's either been baltic or sweaty when I've visited.  Today it was the former.

10am I was at Sloping Beauty in the shade with all my jackets on.  Sloping Beauty is on my list for 2010, and since I haven't done any off my list I thought I'd give it a proper go.  My previous attempts ended at the match move, and I've never been able to hang the left hand sloper.  Things appeared to be going the same way today, but then I found a body position that was more stable- I almost managed to hold the LH sloper and reach up with my right, but I popped off and lost some skin.  After a few more goes I managed to hold the RH hold, and move my left foot around.  This was as far as I got today, but it's progress and I held the sloper match a few times.

After this I failed miserably on the groove round to the left- sandbag was invented for that bastard.  Then I wandered back towards the Pinnacle only to find a dozen or more people bouldering.  I gave it up as a bad job, but I'll be heading back for another go on Sloping Beauty soon.

On my way home I dropped in at Cadshaw for a look at my project.  The first bit to the crux move is pretty solid now, but the dyno to the jug still seems a way away.  I'm not sure if it's lack of commitment as the jug is very sharp and will cut you of you don't land it just so.  I also found a second sequence, but I'm too weak on the left hand sloping crimp for this at present.  I wandered over to Cadshaw Castle rocks and found the arete I'd seen from across the river is pretty small, and went from the sitter at 6b or so.  I think today I was still feeling tired from the 2 WoB sessions.  And the knee has been pretty sore too.

On a seperate note, after a conversation about The Real Thing with BeardyBeast I've been doing more digging.  The previous list on UKB had a track missing, but I've got 12 of the 14 tracks now.  I e-mailed the Swedish Progress Records to ask about Progress- Givin' It, but it seems they aren't the samer Progress Records so back to the detective work.  I'm waiting to hear back from Warp about the Lisa Marie Experience track.

Nice one to Mr Crouch for finally doing In Hell- what took you so long?

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Sloping Beauty FAIL!!
18 October 2010, 1:24 pm



The first time I held the sloper (not on video) I actually managed to move my left foot about, so I reckon if I can get it on the starting left hand hold there's a chance of success.  Maybe.....



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter