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Day 347-  Total Motivation Failure
8 April 2010, 6:41 pm

Days of rain- 46

Dry days- 50

I've no idea what happened today.  It was raining until 10 or so, so we had a group breakfast with Rick making porridge.  We got a few pics of front levers on the local roadsign too.  After this, we went to Milly to have coffee and a pain au chocolate/raisin in order for the rocks to dry out.  Nemo, Jay and Baz met up with us there- sounds like they've been going well.  After coffee we headed over to Roche aux Sabots.  This was a somewhere with lots of problems I wanted to do- Smash, Graviton, l'Oblique, JetSet to name a few.

First off we had a look at Zen, and after 2 tries I realised this wasn't a problem for me and my long legs.  Nemo was coming close but succumbed to Font Elbow.  Jay was looking strong on the end, but hated the start.  Baz nailed the problem after a few close calls.  Mike was battling a Nemesis- he got a solid sequence for the last bit, but on the link wasn't managing to reach for victory.  Jay showed me where Gasthaus Unterslag was, only to find Rutaska and Tom P in situ.  Looks an horrendous penalty for missing the last move on this, a big mud slope awaiting.

After this I went back to join the family.  I realised I had no motivation at all to try anything else.  I don't know why, but I just couldn't be bothered trying anything. So we took the kids to the kid's white circuit, and spent a couple of hours watching them do problems.  Then it was time to leave as it was our turn to do tea- sausage, mash and baked beans.  I'm not sure where we're off to tomorrow, but I hope I get some psyche back to do something.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 348-  Redemption
9 April 2010, 9:40 pm

Days of rain- 46

Dry days- 51

This morning I was awake at 6:15 and couldn't get back to sleep.  Maybe it was the poor performance of yesterday tormenting my soul, but whatever it was I got up and drove to Sabots.  It was still dark when I arrived, but I headed for JetSet determined to get one of my aims ticked.  First go I bothed the right foot and fell off the first move.  Second go I slapped the top and didn't hold it.  It then took quite a few falls from the first move or the match move before I was back at the final pop.  This time I nailed the thing.  I had a few goes on Smatch, and was touching the hold every time although I didn't really get the timing right and wasn't really pulling hard as it caned my elbows.  Then I headed home for coffee and breakfast.

After food we all headed to Bouligny so BeardyBeast could get on Beaux Quartiers.  Unfortunately conditions were poor, so we left after a short visit.  Although we did get to eat the pastries BeardyBeast had brought for us.

A visit to Franchard Cuisinier ensued, with BeardyBeast and Rick both doing Beatle Juice pretty easily.  We all moved areas, and after a spot of lunch in the sun we had a look at a few of the problems.  Misericorde is high and Karma looks nails, so we settled on a nice prow some guys were trying.   I got very close to doing Le Mouton à 5 Pattes, falling off the move to the pocket quite a few times.  Rick and BeardyBeast declared it rubbish, and my skin was starting to hurt.  Then we moved on to Le Mouton à 6 Pattes just to the right.  Most people seemed to use a crimp for the right hand, but tallies used a good sidepull out right.  For me this was full stretch and a really hard move to catch, certainly no easier than the prow direct.  Anyway, we all managed this one and I can sleep at night despite using the sidepull as it was still hard to get to it!

We all decamped to Apremont fo r coffe/beer at the cafe.  Rick and co headed off to make tea, and Mike and family went to the supermarket.  BeardyBeast and miniBeast accompanied the lank family to look at La Médaille en Chocolat which really hurt my sore skin, so we were soon heading for home.  After tea I gave the ladies a lift to Buthiers to try a nemesis white problem slab.  It remains a nemesis, but it was a lovely evening at a crag.

So we head for home tomorrow, back to the grind.  After a poor Font performance I'm angry enough to get back on all my unfinished business.......

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 349-  Luton
10 April 2010, 9:54 pm

Days of rain-  46

Dry days-  52

This has come full circle- posting from a phone whilst sat in the bathroom of a Travelodge, albeit it in Luton this time.

Today has been a busy day, mainly due to packing and travelling.  We were on the same ferry as Rick and family, and it left a little later than the supposed 17:20.  At least SeaFrance weren't on strike still.

After this we stopped at Ashford for fuel and food.  The Blobs were tired so we were onto a loser from the start.  Then Pizza Hut decided to use BBQ sauce on our Hawaiian and the Blobs rebelled.  Blob 2 fell asleep and Blob 1 was hyper.  At least we got a correct pizza as well and weren't charged.  

Next up the m25 had road works and we took a detour up and back down the M11 which added half an hour to the journey.  So here we are in Luton.  I hope my car is in one piece in the morning.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Addendum
12 April 2010, 5:34 am

Just a quick note to let you know the car was in one piece after Luton, and we all got home fimr.

Here's as much footage as we took.  Sorry it's a bit rubbish, blame Rick, Mike and BeardyBeast for doing things too quickly.

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 352-  Project Failure!
13 April 2010, 1:26 pm

Days of rain-  46

Dry days-  55

Today is another 14-22:00 shift, but I had Blob 1 all morning.  We had a wander up to Project Number 2, up at Healey Nab.  The Ginnster was going to join us but he ended up heading to Wilton for a look at Snakey B.  The Blob and I were up at the crag by 8:30 but it soon warmed up.  Conditions weren't great, everything felt a bit greasy.  

Healey Nab is in quite good nick at the moment (for The Nab) as the trees have shrunk down a bit and there's not too much moss.  I got stuck into my Project.  This is something I don't seem to be getting closer to.  One go today I actually weighted the finishing hold, but slid off.  It's basically 2 hard moves, the second being the hardest.  It also needs a good pull on the sharp left hand crimp and after a dozen goes it was slicing my skin, so I left it for another day.

The Blobdid some clambering up and down and then amused herself by dancing around in the sun.  I noticed a sitter for a pillar thing, which I did after a number of goes- probably a first ascent at around 6a+.  I also managed a sitter right of Andi's Mantle, going from a sit on the ledge and slapping to the top from a left heel.  Again, I don't think anyone has bothered with it before.  I did the last bit of Titanium Traverse quite easily, and static.  Then it was time to go home and drop the Blob off at Grandad's.  I need to head back to finish off all my projects soon.  And maybe head back to Font soon.

Oh, and my 41 Boosters arrived whilst we were away.  They are very tight, so I'll have to see how much they stretch.  Heels much better though.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 353-  Project Progress
14 April 2010, 9:02 pm

Days of rain- 46

Dry days- 56

Another nice day.  Also, I didn't need to be in work until later on so I went to look at Project 1.  I chucked the rope down it and had a look on the shunt.  The top felt nails, so I came down and repeated my traverse and One of R-Man's old problems.  Then I had a look at the Ramp Project, which still feels nails when dry- I'll the BeardyBeast on it again.

I moved back to the project and bouldered the bottom twice pretty easily, as far as the set up for the crux sequence.  Then I put my harness back on and had a proper go at the top section.  I found a better foot sequence and made the top.  This involves a couple of pretty tenuous, on-off, slaps in a position I wouldn't like to fall off.  BeardyBeast felt it was font 7a+ and today it felt the grade.  With the crux being the last move and no gear I guess it'd be E4 in old money.

So I'm hoping it stays dry for now.  I'd like to top rope it a couple of times, then go for the solo/highball.  The top out is the bit I'm really most worried about- loose blocks and mud, woo.

I'm going to try to head back to Font in August, since the Blob is off school anyway.  I'm waiting to hear back to confirm my leave as well as from Neil at Maisonbleau regarding booking.  The Boss has even offered to go for 2 weeks, but I'm not sure I could manage that from previous experience.  Fingers crossed though, I feel as though I need to redeem myself for the shit performance this time around.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 355-  More Additions
16 April 2010, 8:36 pm

Days of rain- 46

Dry days- 58

The dry, sunny weather continues.

I headed back to the project this afternoon.  I did the crux bit 3 or 4 times in a row.  I was going to go for it, but the mud slope top out and teh sloping landing made me want a spotter.  I know it'll go though, bring on the fear.

In addition I added a new Dyno and did the same problem as a heinous mantel.  I also did a direct version of one of R-Man's old problems, and got close to a project dyno.  Not a bad couple of hours really.

All I need is a spotter and I'll get this done.  Although I think I may have a rope up top for the mud slope......

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day  359-  Windy
20 April 2010, 10:03 pm

Days of rain- 47

Dry days- 61

Brief blog today.  Went to the Project, but it was blowing a gale- not ideal for trying a balancy highball.  Did it 3 times in a row on shunt, pretty sure it'll go down next time conditions are OK.  Bumped into a guy taking photos for the new guide.

Also getting a Lancashire 7s and 8s list together, something I've meant to do for ages.  Feel free to add to it here.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 360-  David Vetter
21 April 2010, 6:31 pm

Days of rain- 47

Dry days- 62

After doing my tedious journal appraisal this afternoon, I headed back to Stronstrey.  I was quite pleased to find it was pretty still, just a gentle breeze, and a bit warmer than yesterday.

I went up top and dangled a rope down the mud slope (which in the end I didn't use as I couldn't reach), then went back down and put my 2 mats down.  As the landing is pretty sloing I pegged them down again, then put the camera up.  Since I'd done it 3 times on a rope yesterday I decided not to bother shunting it again, so I put my boots on and went for it.  

Before I realised it I was at the crux and it felt easy.  The pop to the top was less of a pop than it has been before, I seem to manage to lean into it more so the arete jammed into my groin.  But then the fun began......

I pulled up the the slightly suspect block, and the highest I'd ever been- since the shunt rope was so diagonal I've never tried the top out before.  I half mantelled up, ending up resting footless on my left elbow and feeling about for a firm bit of heather.  Eventually after some udging and much sketching (not to mention crapping it a bit), I managed to sling a leg over the top of the arete.  Then more udging until I got a bit more height and got my right heel on, then I was up.  Thank fuck for a lump of heather is all I can say.  By this time I was up and didn't need my knnotted rope that was to protect the muddy top.  Anyway, I apologise for the utter lack of style at the top but it was done onsight :-)

So there you are, David Vetter Font 7a+.  Or E3 6c if you prefer (I wonder if it'll make it into the new guidebook).  A filthy green arete I noticed one snowy day whilst taking pics for the guide, spent 5 sessions cleaning it, and another 3 dangling on a rope practicing it.  I'm pretty pleased to have got it done at last, I was starting to think the fates were against me.

BeardyBeast wants to go sport climbing on Friday, and whilst it's really not my bag I may join him.  I just don't trust bolts (weird, but it's because I can assess trad gear as I put it in I think) and I now have no head for leading.  Not a good recipe for going sporting.  Better humour him I suppose.

I've added a video of some of the new stuff 2 posts below here, and here's the new one from today.  Sorry it's sketchy as fuck!!

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 361-  Not fit for Longridge
22 April 2010, 8:59 pm

Days of rain- 47

Dry days- 63

Pretty good conditions at Longridge, and quite busy too:  in attendence were the Ginnster, Weak Sam, Mick Lovatt, The GasMan, AdamD, Serpico plus others.  And I finally got to meet Andy F, who was looking as strong as I'd expected.  

Basically there was some Banter, I did Kiss the Razor's Edge in 2 parts (one to aim for this year) and then had a play on The Vickers Eliminate- I was getting close to the first move, but I feel pretty weak in the left shoulder.  I also failed to get the pocket on Big Marine (as usual), and this thing needs putting to bed.  I'm most definitely not CyL Strong at the moment.

Anyway, tomorrow BeardyBeast has pursuaded me to go to Kilnsey where I will doubtless flail, gibber, and fail.  Awesome.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 362-  St George and Kilnsey
23 April 2010, 5:40 pm

Days of rain- 47

Dry days- 64

St George's Day, although it seems to have silently slipped by all but the bastard BNP.  BeardyBeast has also had his head shaved, although I'm not sure that that is at all linked.

Kilnsey.  I arrived just after 10, UpTownGirl and BeardyBeast were both having a look at their little project of a font 7c+ into an F8a+/b.  Looks interesting, and quite hard.  I had a little look at the bouldering to warm up.  My print out was hard to read as the ink was running out, but I managed a font 6a (woop) a few times.  Everything felt like poor friction, almost dusty.  And it all felt hard, with several holds feeling quite painful.

Anyway, I was directed to a "nice bouldery" F7a+ (Smooth Torquer? maybe) which I had a play on the start of.  It had decent holds, but big reaches between them and after a couple of goes at the start I was feeling pretty tired.  At this point UpTown had to shoot off to maintain domestic bliss, so BeardyBeast put some clips in and I had a look on the rope.  I was managing to get the hardest move at the start but Mr Fat hands was then struggling to do the move right to the bucket.  Tired, I came down and watched BeardyBeast have a go.  I was quite relieved to find he struggled a bit on the hard move, and then dangled about a bit before getting to the lower off.  On top rope I did the same as before, fucking up the sidepull moves.  And then I was knackered and couldn't manage more than 3 moves in a row- I stripped the thing in a 90% dog, 10% climb stylee and then we left.

On my way back I had a call to say the Boss was getting home earlier than expected, so I opted for some bumbling at Widdop since it was such a nice day.  Unfortunately, a rather impressive grass/heather fire had closed the Widdop parking and the road beyond, so a headed back a little and stomped up to the Clattering Stones.  I've wanted to look at some of the harder problems on the big block since I visited many years ago.  The Uprising is a nice line, but there's a big block next to it which is a little intimidating.  I pulled on and had a slap about, but my skin was sore so I had a look at the 7a on the block.  I made good progress on Fontanelles, but was losing flesh so stopped trying.  Both Androsterone and Linea Nigra confused me, I was getting established and then getting nowhere fast.  So I did Clatterjack Pencil again and then went home.

Basically today has confirmed what I knew anyway- I'm unfit and any what little power I have ebbs away pretty quickly.  I'm certainly no sport climber but I can also see how it would help with the bouldering, so I'll have to think whether or not I want to dangle around on ropes outside/ indoors on more occasions.  Or even just focus training more closely.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Day 364-  Closure
25 April 2010, 2:56 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 65

I'm on nights at the moment, but last night wasn't too busy.  Today was cold and cloudy with showers coming and going.  I wanted to get out, but it would have to be somewhere exposed, quick drying, and fairly close.  I've had an aim for this year that I haven't dared put into black and white, I mentioned it to BeardyBeast at Kilnsey and he pulled an "are you stupid?" face at me.  But it's been bubbling on the side burner since 26/4/09, and I have never felt comfortable with it hanging over me.  My aim was to gain retribution before a year was out.

With some apprehension I headed North on the M6, and parked up at Newbiggin crags.  I opted for the limestone pavement approach as it's a nice walk across some lovely country but also because I had the option of trying Surfer Rosa or The Fridge low start if things went badly.

I was pretty hot when I arrived at the Best Limestone Wall in Britain, especially as I had 2 mats this time.  I warmed up a bit on some of the nice easy walls around here, then turned to my objective.  New Rose.  A problem with a history, a Gaskins Classic.  It's claimed at least 2 A2s, the other allegedly being Mr Vickers', or so Weak Sam told me once.

Last time I was here I didn't even dare pull on the right hand pocket.  When I snapped the A2 I held this 2 finger half pad pocket as a full crimp, thumb pinching a crozzle.  I didn't dare do that today, so I ended up doing a weird open handed thingy.  2 fingers in the pocket, but not crimping, thumb on a crozzle lower down.  It felt infinitely less tweaky, but also less secure (as you'll see in the video).  After a lot of faff and puffing and panting I finally pulled on and took my left hand off.

Nothing happened- no snap, no pain- nothing.  Hmmm, I thought. After several more test runs I had the left hand crimp, it felt good as it was pretty cold today.  I dropped off and tried to get some psyche.

With the HV20 running, I tried again- pull on, left hand to crimp, left foot up- suck in the swing- and go!!  Where I'd been slapping before, today I kinda reached to the break, and there I was.  I matched up and looked to the upper wall.  The superdirect version uses a really painful left hand pocket to step high for the break.  This was very painful, and I stepped back down and dropped off.  Fuck.

The next go my right hand blew from the pocket sending me down to batter my right knee on the boulders below the problem.  This made me rather angry, so I gathered myself for a proper attempt.  This time I was a little less static getting the break, but then managed to wobble to the top by moving a foot to the right (this is the method Greg used in his old video if I recall correctly).  And that was that.  I think that the Font 7b the problem now gets is about right, but I have to say it's one of the best walls around.  Awesome.

After this I went to have a brief look at The Coil.  I tried twice, and almost held the break twice but my skin was sore after ripping out of the New Rose pocket, so I went home.  I have to say though, Farleton is looking a mess today- tons of chalk everywhere with tick marks and fingertape and drink bottles left lying around.  I've tidied up as much as I could, but let's not ruin our crags.

So it's my last night tonight, and with New Rose put to bed I am free to try other things.  With sore skin, more lime action may be required- I'll see what the BeardyBeast is up to.  Off to bed now for a brief sleep.

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[butterworthtom]

Nice one on going back to beat an old foe. New rose is a very nice problem. I haven't managed it yet, but from my attempts it felt harder than 7B, perhaps it will feel easier when I go back? I don't mean to belittle you're achievement but perhaps you have a lankvantage?

[GCW]

As I'm sure you'll know, it was always 7c- but then Greg saw I managed to keep my low foot on, and he (and others) have managed it the same way.  I may be lanky but the same sequence has been done by a few others.  Greg seems to think 7a+/b.

Basically I reckon if you can pull really hard on that foul pocket, you'll find it easy.  I think it's hard, I'd personally reckon 7b/+ but I seem to be in a minority there.

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Windy Clough
26 April 2010, 4:03 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 66

As you'll see, I'm not counting days any more- partly because I had always intended to stop at a year, and partly because I don't need to anymore.

I had a crap night at work last night, not impressed at all.  Consequently I was knackered when I got home and my plan of going to look at Woodwell OR looked a bit silly.  Add to that an aching left shoulder and things didn't look hopeful.  It was dull and grey this morning, so I fell upon the idea of going to Windy Clough.  This is a venue I bouldered at when my Grandmother was alive, but I haven't been since about 1995 I think.  I've spent a fair bit of time finding rocks in the past, so it was a nice reminisce to go back and try some of the stuff from Greg's guide.

First up I went to the boulders near the top of the hill.  I jumped straight on Bodacious, a one move 7a.  Initially I felt nowhere near to getting it, but then something clicked and I was holding the top, but dabbing as my foot swung off.  3rd time I hit the top I didn't dab, so topped out in style.  Then I did the 6c to the right (Bully for Bugs), but the top out wasn't stylish.  To tick the block I did the easy traverse, which was quite nice.

Then over to the other side of the hill.  I got shut down on Live Evil, mainly as my left hand was thin on skin so it hurt like crazy.  I did Welcome to the Palindrome first go, which was nice.  And then I went to look at No Country For Old Men, a funky arete thingy.  This was coated in chalk and tick marks, which I spent some time scrubbing off- I won't go on about it as I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but c'mon people.  Initially I was really struggling with a few of the moves, but slowly I managed to get them until I'd done all of them.  Now, I have no doubt that Greg did this by bringing a (right?) foot out to the lip once he'd got the high hold on the arete.  Me being lanky, I kept a foot low down and kept slapping slopers ending up at absolute full stretch and then having to suck in a swing on slopers.  Greg, I apologise in advance if this sequence offends your eyes ;-)Having said that, I still found this pretty hard so it's still at least 7b using lankiness- but if you're taller than me it may be easier.

After countless failed links, I finally managed to get everything to stick and got to the lip.  Off came the feet, and lo!- I managed to stay on- just the top out to do and it was in the bag.  Unfortunately, my skin is pretty screwed now from all the sliding off the holds so that may impact on venues for tomorrow.  I had another go at cleaning chalk off the thing, then sat down and ate some Jaffa cakes.  I had a chat to an older guy that was having a look about, he seems to spend a lot of time in Silverdale but I didn't recognise him.  Then I headed down to warm down on the Rigg Lane Boulders.  I did problems 1-5 in my Boosters in a further attempt to wear them in, then headed back to the car bumping into someone else with a Greg guide and a pad.

There's a lot of rock here, and at Baines, but from previous explorations I know that not a lot of it is worth climbing.  I seem to remember there's a couple of the larger blocks on the west flank of the hill have some good lines, but the landings tend to be gash and the approach tedious.  Further up Clougha there's a couple of bigger buttresses with some low end stuff, bit of a walk though.  If you're local you can spend ages searching the place.

On the way home I stopped off at Quernmore chapel for the overdue paying of respects, got to me more today for some reason, tiredness I assume.  And then back here, and shortly I'll head out to pick the Blobs up.  I've had a message that BeardyBeast has been onsight soloing top end trad today- sickening, all this crush gets a bit tedious after a while.

I wonder where to go tomorrow......

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Skinless Searchings
27 April 2010, 6:46 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 67

I took myself to Woodwell today in search of skin friendly problems.  First up I had a look at Angel Deelite, but the left hand crimp was too painful so I moved over to Turbulence.  I tried a left heel-toe lock (not the best plan on the painful knee) but couldn't work out what I was doing.  This thing has me confused, although looking at the LakesBloc pics Greg seems to be going the other way (ie right foot high and right hand up).  I'll have to look next time.

Since the skin was so sore I opted to look for something involving smooth holds.  The Crushinator looked a good option, mostly non-threatening holds.  I had a look at the stand up and was getting quite close after a few goes.  The stand up consists of squeezing the prow thingy, tenuous left toe and throw for a right hand edge.  The edge isn't easy to latch properly, and it took a while to work out what to do- a weird leg flick thing with the right leg.  Once I got this sussed, I put the HV20 on and did the thing first go.  The top is similar to Not Bad Dave SDS with a couple of poor handholds and some knee/bicycle action.

OK, thought I, that felt reasonable so let's try the sit start.  The stand up gets 7b+ in the current guide, but I'd say it's a bit easier than that.  The sitter I wasn't sure what was in for feet as there's an obvious right footlock and not much else.  Working on the assumption the foot lock is in (it's stupid to eliminate such a logical hold) I struggled with the first move.  This is an all out slap for a slimy sidepull sloper, with full commitment to the footlock.  It took quite a lot of goes to nail that move- I think this and the stand up move are by far the hardest moves.  Next is a slap with the Left hand, then rearrange feet and it's the stand up.  Except you've got the right foot on so my leg flick doesn't work.  After an hour of working it, I was able to get to the stand up crux but never held the edge.  I must have done this a dozen times at least.  Adding the sit start makes the stand up grades harder.  Whether it's 7c I don't know, maybe tough 7b+, but it really suits me- I like the compression styleee.

After falling off the same move again and again, I headed back to the car.  I stuck the kit in then wandered down the other path, which I've never been down.  I was half surprised how close Not Bad Dave was.  I was also surprised to find the right hand crimp of NBD SDS was really loose and rattly.  Not easy to sort as I doubt it's repairable in position, it'll be a take out and re-glue job (or leave it and see what's left when it comes out).  There seems to be some freeze-thaw action going on- Not Bad Dave sitter, Poison.  I suppose it shows that our playground isn't permanent and we should have a lot of respect for what we have.

I see Greg commented that a friend of his thought No Country For Old Men was 7a with the foot kept low.  I don't know how tall this dude is, but it certainly felt 7b to me.  But then if you can reach even a couple of centimetres more you could get the good lip hold and it'd be easy.  All this led me on to look at ape indices, not something that has concerned me before.  To cut a short story shorter I've got a 2 inch deficit on reach.  Yup, I'm lanky but I've got midget arms, which makes sense as my span has never been much better than a lot of people I've climbed with.

I'm sat typing this listening to Demanufacture (a superb album) and wearing my tightest pair of Boosters.  And wondering why that bloke on Casualty needs a torque wrench to apply a pelvic ex fix, WTF?  Back to work tomorrow, but I'm keen to get back to finish off the sitter from today.  Then there's Poison and Vitruvian Man, it's getting a bit warm for my Grit aims.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Crushination
29 April 2010, 1:32 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 69

I was supposed to have a full morning of clinic, but it soon became clear most were cancelled.  Which meant a free morning, so a rematch was on the cards.  I wouldn't have much time as I had to be back for 2pm, and it was drizzling this morning so I was in two minds whether or not to bother.  A brief MSN conversation with Nemo inspired me to go anyway.

The drizzle was turning to rain as I left but the further North I went, the lighter it got and by Lancaster it was dry.  I've been really sore the last couple of days, both hips and both shoulders/arms- just shows I was having to actually pull on the Crushinator on Tuesday.  And that I'm getting old.

Initially I opted to try the stand up crux to get it a bit more sussed.  I rapidly found it was still very low percentage and depended entirely on catching the edge correctly, then holding the inevitable swing.  I did the move a couple of times but realised it was pointless trying to get it wired as it's just not one of those moves (for me at least).  So I set about the sitter.  The first moves still feel burly as hell, and on one occasion I missed the second slap and ended up smashing my ass on a block, ouch said the Lankster.  But after settling into it I was getting to the stand up crux most goes.  A few times I nearly held that move, but it was becoming more and more obvious that nearly getting the move is a million miles from actually holding it.

Then the temperature dropped a bit and the sloping holds felt a tiny bit better.  And after 2 hours of failing, I caught the edge- not quite right, but enough- and managed to bicycle up whilst feeling I was about to pop off.  And relax, ticked.  i have to say that even when I did the problem, it still felt hard.  Often with problems, the go you do it the problem feels OK.  This didn't and I think I was a little flippant on Tuesday about its difficulty, I can agree with it being 7c.  So that's what I'll call it for now.

After this I got a few shots from different angles, then headed over to look at Rigpa as I've never really looked at it.  I'm still not clear where it goes exactly, it looked as if it went up agroove, stepped right past sidepulls to a good hold at the upper groove.  I then had a quick look at Not Bad Dave sitter, and surprised myself by getting pretty close to the first move- something that has felt impossible in the past.  Then I fell off the last move of Whistler RH, but it was time to go back to work.

BeardyBeast is off questing on the clips today, but he's keen to get back to Ebeneezer Goode tomorrow so I may wander up to join him.  More unfinished business but I doubt I'll be in any condition to have proper attempts at anything.  If it doesn't rain of course.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Soreness and Traffic
30 April 2010, 9:22 pm

Days of rain- 48

Dry days- 70

BeardyBeast came over for a brief Woodwell trip.  Due to heavy traffic etc we didn't arrive until gone 19:00.  Despite the rain today, the buttress was pretty much dry.  BeardyBeast dispatched The Crushinator, declaring it easy 7c, maybe hard 7b+.  We looked at Turbulence, and whilst I still haven't worked out a sequence that works, BeardyBeast made some progress on it via a super burly sequence.  Similar story on Paroxysm too, although we weren't sure what's in above the lip.

We had a play on Flying Finish as it was getting dark.  I was getting the poorer edge OK, and from here I struggled to get a heel on.  BeardyBeast couldn't get to the hold but from there could casually bung a heel on and cross over to the better hold.  Maybe fresh and not sore from previous sessions it would go.

And then it was dark so we headed off.  I may get out briefly on Sunday, may look at Trowbarrow for some different beta.  Also got an e-mail from Canon, need to send the HV20 back for them to look at (which should take a couple of days).  Probably get that done next week.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Ass kicking at Fairy Steps..... again
2 May 2010, 7:12 pm

Days of rain- 49

Dry days- 71

After yesterday's rain I wasn't sure what would be dry, but as the Blobs were up at 6 I headed out quite early.  I decided to risk a rematch with Aeon Dyno, on the off chance it'd be dry.  I was at Aeon buttress before 9, although it didn't feel too great.  Basically Aeon Dyno kicked my arse again, although I felt a lot closer with an outside edge of the right foot.  I did the first move of Aeon, then wandered up to Becoming.

Second Coming- couldn't even pull on, what the f*ck?  This is 7a but I just got shut down.  The 7a+ on the wall to the right also got the better ofme.  I was pulling on with right foot outside edge, left foot on obvious hold.  SLap RH up, then what?  I tried another RH slap with no avail.  Getting back and watching vids I see you go LH to the crack (which I thought was out) so next time I go I can try again.  I fondled the holds on Walk Away, looked at Axiom (nails!) and Intellect SDS which The Hebsonator did recently.  I can't see how you go about it, and having done the stand up ages ago I recall it being desperate.

Then it was time to head home.  I have the opportunity to head out tomorrow, but I'm not sure where to go.  Maybe Trowbarrow to fail on Pit Problem/ Vitruvian.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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G Time
3 May 2010, 1:15 pm

Days of rain- 49

Dry days- 72

I headed out to Trowbarrow early on.  The left shoulder is still sore from Crushinator, feels like an ACJ strain now.  Also the left knee is sore from doing foot locks at Windy Clough.  So it didn't look promising.

And it wasn't.  I tried using a heel instead of a toe on Vitruvian Man, but it felt hard to pull on compared to usual and the Sam heel wasn't sitting well.  A worse performance than previously.  I had a look at Pit Problem, and was touching the hold but taking the foot lock out.  Needs more commitment and it'd be OK I think.  During my time there, Lord G arrived with family, nodded a perfunctory "morning" and went to Red Wall.

At this point Weak Sam turned up.  He had won a charity powerlifting contest yesterday, so was opting for an easy day.  We had a chat, wandered up to Red Wall for a brief stalk, then he headed off to try his Woodwell super link.  I did Ramp Traverse first go, then went home.

Feeling crap on VM, I am tempted to sack it off but I'll have to try it when I'm fresh and not sore.  Poison may be a better option at present.

And now we're baking Gingerbread Men.  They should all have a bald head and a vein of ultimate power.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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The Boss on the grit
4 May 2010, 8:18 pm

Days of rain- 49

Dry days- 73

After work I dragged the Boss to Brownstones, only 3 months til Font.  She managed Mantelstrung and Chockerblock Corner with slight cajoling.  I found all my old regulars pretty tricky, although I was wearing the Boosters in a vain attempt to get them broken in.

Warton/Woodwell tomorrow, not sure which.  Have to see what the Bearded One wishes to crush.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Greasy McGreasyson
5 May 2010, 4:55 pm

Days of rain- 49

Dry days- 74

Today I was working a late (or rather, I am working a late).  I'd planned to go to Warton this morning but I was shattered when I woke up and couldn't be bothered walking up the hill, so I changed the plan to go to Woodwell.  BeardyBeast was going to meet up at 10, and as I got there at 9 I went to Tom's to have a look at a couple of Nemeses.

First up was Beauty of being Numb, which I've always struggled with.  I haven't been back on it for well over a year due to lack of crimp ability.  Today I was getting to the lip pretty much static, but not holding the thing.  So I had a look at Screaming Slave, which I've never got close to before.  Today, despite it feeling really greasy, I managed to touch the lip with my left hand- a new thing for me!  I did the last bit from matched on the lip to the top, so I'm confident it'll go if I can do the move to the lip.  Another to come back to in better conditions.  At this BeardyBeast turned up declaring he'd left his boot/chalk/mat etc at home.  What a tool.

We opted to head over to WoR, but just as we were leaving Weak Sam turned up to try his link up, so we had some banter then moved on.  Turbulence was greasy as hell, as was Flying Finish.  BeardyBeast wasn't psyched, not helped that he was getting cramp in my Boosters.  I managed to do Alien Head, which kicked my ass the other day.  Then we moved on to the middle section.  I managed to pull onto Griddle Groove for the 1st time, but was at a loss what to do next.  BeardyBeast was pulling on and slapping for a crap right hand edge over the lip.  He did the moves from this to the top, so if he gets that move done it's in the bag.  I then fell off the last move of Whistler RH again.

It was nearly time to head to work, but there was just time to squeeze in a cream tea.  We ordered "2 cream teas", but then had to specify that we wanted tea.  Odd.  And then, after this healthy snack, it was time to go home.  Next time (assuming it's better conditions) I will do BOBN, BeardyBeast will bring his boots, we'll get back on Turbulence and Griddle Groove and life will be sweet.

Mad props to UpTownGirl for nailing his little project.  Go Girl!!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Jumbles Exploration
9 May 2010, 8:46 pm

Days of rain- 50

Dry days- 77

I met up with BeardyBeast and the Ginnster at Jumbles this afternoon.  This is a new venue currently under development (and excavation).  Mini Beast was asleep in the car, so I left them in the parking and wandered down to the crag to meet the Ginnster.  To be honest, only two or three things appealed and the rest looked pretty easy or pretty chossy (or both).

Initially we had a look at Clown's Pocket, a nice looking line which currently starts on the right arete and bounces into a shothole.  The Ginnster has been looking at this for a while, so was keen to get it done today.  BeardyBeast did it quite easily as we have come to expect.I got sucked into trying the direct versions.  One involves a dyno to the drill hole from 2 good crimps and not much for feet.  The other we were trying as a rock over on a high right heel to get an undercut on the original.  I was close to the dyno, but no more than that.  I can get the lip of the hold most goes but it's very blind and involves a big swing.

I was tickling the rockover method but it needed BeardyBeast to step in and crush it, declaring it font 7a (pinch of salt...).  The Ginnster then proceded to look solid on Clown's Pocket only to bloast off when his right hand flew off the good hold.  He landed on his back, whacking his head/neck and rattling teeth loose.  He'll be sore tomorrow, but hopefully that's all.

We then had a look at a nice roof that's a Geoff Hibbert project.  On my first go I got to the flatties on the lip but then dropped off.  BeardyBeast flashed it to the big jugs higher up but then he too came down.  I got to the same point on my 2nd go, so it's still a project ;-)  I cleaned off 2 large loose blocks from the line, which would have been very dangerous to pull on.  I'd say it's about font 6b, but we did the move round the lip footless to avoid any swing.  And then we headed home to escape the midges.  I'm off tomorrow morning so I may end up having a rematch up in Silverdale.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Rainy day at Tom's
10 May 2010, 1:42 pm

Days of rain- 51

Dry days- 77

This morning was looking promising, but then the weather closed in and the rain began.  From previous experience I decided to take a risk on a Woodwell visit.  It didn't look like it would be worth it as I drove past Lancaster in heavy rain, but when I arrived most of Tom's Buttress was dry-ish.

I hung from a few holds in a vague warm up, then went to look at BOBN.  The right hand edge on this is moving a lot, pretty loose really, and I was in two minds whether to try it or not.  In the end I gave it a go on the principle that it would be a difficult in-situ mend, and putting it back after breakage may be easier.  Weak Sam arrived as I was trying it so we had a bit of banter and a chocolate chip cookie.  Today I felt quite good on BOBN, despite the left shoulder being pretty painful again after yesterday.  I was getting the lip hold but still not quite static.  Once my left heel hurt, I left it- I just hope the hold stays in place until I can head back and finish it off.

I moved back to Screaming Slave.  Weak Sam was adamant that I was using the wrong hold in the lip- he pointed out the well chalked pinch about 6 inches right of the unchalked hold I'd always tried it from.  I must admit this is the more obvious hold to use, and the only one that had chalk on it, but reviewing the Gaskins video on Stick It he uses the 3 finger sloper that I'd always thought was the right one.  Anyway, using the hold Weak Sam advised I managed to get  a sequence sorted and proceded to fall out of the finishing slot a few times.  Still felt about right for 7b to me, and I think this is the way a lot of people are doing it nowadays- Greg?

And then it was time to head home and come to work.  My skin's pretty sore now, but I'm keen to head back.  I'm tempted to do Screaming Slave with the Weak Sam pinch, then have another go at the Gaskins sequence- I think it'll go with a bit of an udge.  Could you sleep at night at night if you didn't do the G sequence?  And BOBN has taken too long for such a silly problem, needs to get done.  We shall see.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Stronstrey repeats
11 May 2010, 9:08 pm

Days of rain- 51

Dry days- 78

UKB is still unavailable at home, and judging by the other people having issues I suspect TalkTalk may be part of the problem.  I've e-mailed them so we shall see what somes of it.

I finished a little early today, so after collecting the car from its MOT I nipped over to Stronstrey to get some pics and for a bumble about.  I need to get the topo updated as there's a few things that need to go in it.  It was drizzling when I arrived, but I headed up to the crag and it seemed to settle OK.  I did Feather Back, or at least what I thought was Feather Back.  There's 3 quite pleasant problems there so I did them all to make sure- I'll e-mail R-man and check which he did.  After that I did the 3 problems right of Mirth of the Ducks, then moved across to Bob On.

I had a coupe of goes and managed the first move, which is the crux.  So then I put the camcorder on and went to do it.  I promptly snapped off the left foot hold that I'd been rocking up on for the arete pinch.  Great.  So I tried a new sequence with a left outside edge on a good knobble.  After 2 goes I got the move to the arete pinch and promptly snapped that foothold too.  Balls.  I managed to repeat it with a tenuous outside left foot and a bit of a slap, but it's a bit harder than before.

I moved across to Howsat but my alarm went off, so it was time to go home.  I may be free tomorrow evening so a repeat try on the project dyno may be in order, have to see how the time pand out.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter