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Mal voyage
30 July 2010, 8:12 pm

Days of rain- 76

Dry days- 135

Maidstone.  It took over 8 hours to get here, crap traffic.  Full circle- sat in the toilet of a cheap hotel chain.  Tomorrow is a long day, but I hope to spend some time at l'Elephant and have wifi access.  More soon.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Nous sommes arrivés
31 July 2010, 9:02 pm

Days of rain- 76

Dry days- 136

After our 8 hour journey from Hell yesterday, we were praying for a better day today.   We had breakfast at the hotel- decent English breakfast too.  It took under an hour to get to Dover, and despite having to visit a couple of garages to find one with fuel, we were at the Port a good 45 minutes early.

This time SeaFrance weren’t striking and we set off bang on time.  The drive on the French side was interrupted once for the Blobs to go to the toilet, but still took 4 hours from ferry to Maisonbleau.  After paying and unpacking, we quickly had some pasta and went to l’Elephant.  L’Elephant was the first place in Bleau I ever climbed, on the way back from a Chamonix trip in the early 90s.  Today it was 32 degrees when we got there at 19:00.  Not a good omen.

We had a bit of wander around, I wanted to look at Barre Fixe but didn’t get much of a chance as there was an in situ Frenchman along with his girlfriend.  He was generally sat on his mat looking annoyed so I guess he wasn’t crushing.  The girls all went wandering, so I had a look at le Lepreux Direct which was super hot and super greasy.  I had a couple of goes doing the start  statically, but it was rapidly apparent that  the conditions were against it.  I did the bottom the easy way (with the sidepull) and nailed the top move second go.  Then I finally held the French start after a dozen goes ( although I seem to pop to a higher hold than other videos I've seen, maybe try it again when colder), and nailed the top move again, done.  Not a bad start considering the heat.

After that we came back and put the Blobs in bed,  and it was 20:30.  I nipped down to Buthiers for a recce.  I had thought that Dark Room looked cool, but in the heat I was struggling with the moves and the landing wasn’t inviting with one mat.  I walked past les Monos, still don’t fancy that one, and found Nemesis.  This was pretty cool looking and I soon managed to slap the high hold on the arête, so I reckon this will go too- but again, needs better conditions to save skin.  I headed back here after that, despite the confusion created by the reorganised one way system.

Tomorrow, I may get up early to try to catch some cooler conditions.  Where?  No idea yet, let’s see how the mood takes us tomorrow.

Wifi is a bit on the blink at Maisonbleau, so I’m not sure when I’ll manage to post this.  Back to trying to get through new SuperMario Brothers on Blob 1’s DSi I suppose.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Tramping
1 August 2010, 5:40 pm

Days of rain- 76

Dry days- 137

I got up at 6am today, and headed over to Franchard in an attempt to avoid the heat of the day.  Initially I parked at the old Cuisiniere parking, and stomped up to the crag.  Despite it being cloudy and early it was still 18 degrees when I arrived, and pretty humid.  I had a look at Le Mouton à 5 Pattes, which I thought would be a quick tick after nearly doing it in April.  But no, it felt utterly desperate and I wasn'y going to waste skin on it.  I had a look at Entorse, got established fine on the arete but was trying to be too static in general.  I measured the jump then headed off.  

I moved over to Isatis, where I was quite keen to look at Cannonball, a nice looking 7b dyno.  This had an in situ frenchman sleeping under it, in fact the whole place was like a campsite.  I had a wander around, had 2 goes on Vin Rouge (and measured it) and realised it hurt my left hand.  The feet felt awkward too and I was an inch away from getting it, so I'll leave it for nearer the end of the trip.  I opted to leave it alone, so I wandered around looking at 7s and not being hugely inspired (sacrelige!).  I had a look around Hautes Plaines, everything either looked hard or needed 2 pads so I headed back to the gite.  I was back by 9:30, and even that early it was 24 degrees.

We went to the supermarket and stocked up (so that I am now drinking those nice stubby beers), the had a wander around Buthiers to see if we could work out the rules etc for the swimming pool.  No idea.

Thi afternoon we went to Maunoury, and basically spent an hour and a bit walking around in the blasting sun whilst the Blobs clambered over everything in sight.  We gave up before finding the problems I wanted to try.  Next up was l'Elephant- the Boss put her boots on and did yellows 3, 3a, 4 and 5 whilst I attempted a spotting/ child herding combo.  I had a look at la Barre Fixe, and soon found I struggle to get my fingers in the pockets.  I was trying it RH undercut, LH 2 (or one for me) finger pocket out left but every time I tried to snatch the higher hold my foot popped off the smear.  After half a dozen tries my right finger was numb from the pressure, and I had lost skin on my left hand.  As far as i can tell this problem is painful and unpleasant and I was rather underwhelmed.  Plus I can reach the higher LH pocket from sitting, but I'm sure that would be frowned upon most strongly.  So after a wander to look at where le Coeur is, we headed back and washed the filthy urchins and had tea.

Think i may have an early start again tomorrow, not sure where.  The Boss is keen to have a day trip somewhere too.  I may have to head back to try Lepreux with a (more) static start......

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Rain on Champs-Élysées
2 August 2010, 8:04 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 137

Another 6am start, and this time I headed to Canche aux Merciers, somewhere I last visited in 2003.  When I arrived there were no cars in the parking and I walked in shivering, 12 degrees felt cold.  I thought I'd warm up on something finger friendly so went to find Quel Talon, a 7a sitter to Blue 25.  It felt desperate so after a few tries I moved onto Grande Marche.  I remember trying this in 2002 and failed utterly, and today was no different.  I struggle to fit my fingers in the crack holds, and this means I have to be totally static on the first 2 moves in order to wiggle the fingers in.  Today it felt desperate, but an Egyptian was almost working on the first move so it may be (another) one to come back to.

I moved on to look at Gros Doigts, which I couldn't get close to the first move of, then Extorsion de Fond which I had no clue how to do.  Needing something more up my street I looked at Keo, a 7a double dyno.  It suited me, I will admit it'll be easier for the tall, and I did it one handed pretty quickly.  Doing it double came soon after, so I shot a couple of angles.  I did blue 15 too, which was next door adn looked cool (although I'd done it before).  I then headed back to Quel Talon! just to see if all the activity had helped.  I was managing to pull on this time and get established higher up, but it was costing skin and it was heating up by this point so I headed home.

The family Lank drove to Fontainebleau, arranged 6 zone tickets in faltering French and went into Paris.  44 Euros for 2 adult and one child tickets, and a 45 minute trip to Gare de Lyon.  We initially had a walk towards Notre Dame but it was very hot and the Blobs were hungry so we grabbed some food at Jardin des Plantes then hopped on the Metro and went to the Eiffel Tower.  Then on to l'Arc de Triomphe, but by this point it was absolutely p**sing down, so we got the metro back a couple of stops and had tea on Champs Elysees.  The 3 girls went into Disney store, then we headed home.  

There's 2 Manx families here so we had a chat to them.  It's their first time on Font and they haven't really got a map or guides.  Sounds like they had a wander to a damp Buthiers and were amazed by the amount of rock- I guess it's a step up from IoM.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Dyno failure day
3 August 2010, 7:53 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 138

Another 6am start, I initially headed back to Maunoury to look at the things I’d wanted to look at before.  I found Jet Set Biscuit fairly easily, but soon found I couldn’t do the first move and the second involved a dyno/slap to one of the sharpest jugs around.  I gave up on that pretty quickly and moved on to try to find Movement Activated.  After a bit of a false scent, I found it.  What a cool problem, a weird timing specific dyno that doesn’t need you to pull at all really.  I was only getting within an inch of the hold but I only had a few goes, quite keen to head back.

After that I went back to l’Elephant to do le Lepreux Direct properly.  I initially tried it RH undercut, LH lower undercut and slap to the sloper.  I nearly got it this way, but it was costing time and skin.  I tried pulling on with the LH poor sidepull and the RH undercut right of the one I used before.  Using this sequence I did it in a few goes.  Fool.  After this I headed home.

We went to la Roche aux Sabots at 10:30, and the heat was already ramping up.  I had 6 goes Smatch and was getting close, but I was shattered from the heat.  I wasn’t really getting a decent push off on the scorching footholds.  Another added to the list of things to come back to.  I put my trainers on after this and let the Boss get her boots on.  Due to the heat we opted for the White circuit, so the Blobs could have a go too.  The Boss did White 6-12, and 15+16.  The Blobs were all over it, I had no idea pumps could smear like that.  Once the Blobs were tired and hungry enough we headed back for lunch.  The plan was to get the Blobs to sleep for a bit after lunch so we could head out later for cooler conditions.

So much for plans, so straight after lunch we headed to Isatis.  I had 3 goes on Vin Rouge, still felt nails.  I had quite a few goes on Cannonball.  It felt nails, I was a centimeter from the hold but couldn’t improve on it, weird trajectory around a bulge.  Then we went to look at the stuff around the end of the Red circuit.  Froggy Dick I couldn’t even get going on, Quartier  Latin and De Brevitate Vitae, but struggled with the scrunched first moves.  Abdolobotomy felt reasonable, although the guide says start sitting with a left heel, and even at my height this was a super stretch.  Sit start with a right heel seemed possible, I’ll have to do some research (I’m sure I’ve seen a video of it somewhere).

By this point it was getting late on, so we headed back here to test out some red wine.  The list of things to go back to lengthens.  The 7s ticklist doesn’t.  I have an half a notion of trying l’Anthracite at Beauvais.  I tried this back in 2002 and again the next year, but got spanked both times.  Maybe, just maybe, it’ll be different this time………………..

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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2B or not 7a
4 August 2010, 5:41 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 139

It has rained on and off today, but it has been possible to get out on the rock.  I was up at 6am and went to 95.2, where I got a bit lost looking for stuff.  I've only been to 95.2 a couple of times, and my 2 memories are the tricky but classic blue slab, and getting lost.  I managed to find Rudeboy OK, but really struggled on the start (yeah, I know it's shared with the 6c).  I had a look at Zyno, but was an inch or two away from the hold.  One of my boot laces snapped as I put my boots on, meaning one boot was a bit loose.  Then I got lost looking around the other 7+8s, and found most of the other stuff involved those nasty sharp grattin things.  A lot seemed to be closed off due to erosion work.

My wanderings had used up time so I headed back for coffee, then we all headed out throught the drizzle.  As we didn't have long due to supermarket requirements, we headed to Bois Rond.  There were two problems I was keen to look at.  The first was Mer de Tranquilite, which I soon found involved a nasty sharp RH hold to dyno from. I sacked that pretty quickly an moved onto option 2- Toubib or not Toubib.  It was a little unsettling at first as I wasn't sure where I was going to land but after a few tentative attempts I put the mat where I thought it should go and started to commit more.  It didn't help that my old verdes were stretched somewhat and we rolling on the patina edges.  The LH sidepull was pretty greasy too, so I pinged off a couple of times.  Pretty soon I was managing to feel the hold you jump for, but I wasn't keeping hold of it.  Once I decided I was going to do the thing I managed to latch the top hold, and pull through the massive jugs to top it out.  Cool move.

After this we headed back for lunch, then to the supermarket.  We had a couple of cakes and some decent coffee sat out in the sun, and then made tea.  The Blobs are supposedly in bed but are messing about a lot.  Going to have a few beers and watch Constantin, then go to bed- it's Parc Asterix tomorrow.  The Boss is cold and nauseated, so I hope we aren't getting le lurgy.

I watched , and he did the start the same as me with a right heel.  He started a hold lower with the LH, so I'll take that into consideration if I try it again.  I think I was getting confused as it says "sitstart in the middle with a heelhook to the left on the ramp", which I interpreted as a left heel.  I suspect what it means is "sitstart to the left with a heel on the ramp" which is where I was getting it wrong.  I'll try to grow some skin tomorrow as I have 2 thin tips, then try to do it in cooler conditions.  There's also Surplomb Gauche to try which looked OK as I walked past it.  I need to maintain one 7 per climbing day to acheive the impossible aim, dix en Bleau.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Asterix Rules!!
5 August 2010, 7:54 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 140

It rained heavily all last night, which didn't matter as today was Parc Asterix day.  We followed the SatNav which took us around the Peripherique, always fun.  We were still there in 90 minutes, and after paying 8 euros for parking (4 less than Disney) we went in.  I have to say I was pretty impressed with the place.  Much cheaper than Disney, we bought tickets online before coming over so were committed to the date we picked (you can get open tickets for a bit more money) and just as much on offer.  The queues were much less, we never waited more than 20 minutes for a ride.  Prices were lower, there were more rides (which were good)- there's also a couple of adult rides that rival Alton Towers, which was a nice bonus.  The only downside is that the comedy/ slapstick routine and dolphin shows were all in French, although that's not really their fault and it was fairly easy to work out what was going on.  It probably says a lot that this is out only gripe.

Tomorrow I may head back to Isatis to look at Abdolobotomy and look for a blanket that the Boss has lost somewhere in the Forest.  And maybe Surplomb Gauche too, 7a (6c+) although I think the latter is for the jump start.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Johnny footwork my arse
6 August 2010, 6:06 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 141

Another early start.  Isatis again.

I went straight to Abdolobotomy and warmed up by trying the end.  The first move is by far the hardest, but the slap to the pinch on the arete is a redpoint heartbreaker.  Well, it was today in greasy conditions.  After falling off the last bit several times, I finally did it finishing left of the arete.  As I wasn't sure if that was right i also did it finishing (sort of) right of the arete, which was hardly any different.

I had a wander to look for the blanket that we'd lost, but it was nowhere to be found.  I ended up back at Surplomb Gauche.  I struggled on the first bit as it's a tenuous left heel, but with the Dragons the heel move went first try.  I sorted out the next bit using the jump start then had a crack from static start.  After a few botched tries, I fell off the top out by cocking up the footwork.  What a tit.  By now skin was suffering and I was knackered.  I had a few goes on Vin Rouge, getting much closer by ignoring the left foot, then headed to Sablons to measure some dynos.  Then back to MaisonBleau.

We all headed out to Canche with a plan for the Boss to do some stuff.  She did well on the yellow circuit, despite what she may say, and did 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9 and 11.  Looking at 12 I noticed a really nicely featured (and well chalked sitter to the right of Red 21.  I was keen to do this as it looked good, and happily it turned out to be Mardi Gras.  The start was OK with some sneaky footwork, other than one slap to get a fair sidepull for the left before a jump to a decent hold and victory.  After a while I got some decent footwork sorted to do that move, turned the camera on and promptly fell off the start.  Second go I nailed the sucker though, so that gives a bit of breathing space.  5 7s to do, 6 days left.

After this it was scorching so I did some filming then we went to Milly.  The decent patisserie was closed and the other one had more wasps than cakes, so we went to Milly supermarket and bought the essentials and some pastries then headed home.  We ate said items along with filter coffee, whilst sat in the sun.  It would be perfect but for the Blobs serenading us with High School Musical 24/7.  And now we're chilling with a drink, whilst the Boss loses very badly at SuperMario.

Five to go.  Surplomb Gauche will be OK if I'm fresh and it's cooler, but I worry for the skin with nearly a week to go.  Which leaves four skin friendly 7s to find..............

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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5 Limbed Ovine Revenge
7 August 2010, 8:09 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 142

Ouch, skin's really thin now and there's still 5 days of climbing left.

This morning I planned to go to Isatis but the parking was half full already so I diverted to Sablons.  I fancied a look at Jokari, but the landing was worse than my memory suggested, so I measured it and moved on.  Sale Affair looked good but the left starting hold hurt my tips, so I left it too.  I needed something of 7a or so, that was fairly skin friendly and nearby.  The first thing that sprang to mind was the Cuisiniere nemesis.

I walked from Sablons to Cuisiniere and went straight to Le Mouton à 5 Pattes.  I had a couple of goes using the LF hold that is also the starting LH hold but that didn't work for me at all.  Oh dear.  I had a look at the top bit, and was getting nowhere fast (as usual) but then I realised that my right arm was still bent when I was falling off, the awkward pocket was within reach.  All I had to do was MTFU.  I did the stopper move from standing just to prove to myself that I could, then tried it from the sitter.  Needless to say it took a few goes (and some more skin) but I finally got the pocket (just) and ticked this silly problem.  After this I got lost finding Hale Bopp then headed home.

After heading home for coffee and lunch, we headed to Rocher de la Reine for the Boss to have play on the rock.  Blob 2 fell asleep on the way there, so I sat on the mat by the car and dozed for a minute whilst the 2 girls sat in the car snoozing.  It was pretty hot, but the Boss had a look at the Yellow circuit.  The landings aren't as good here as some other yellows, but the Boss managed a few of them.  She's certainly getting better at her footwork and head for heights, although she doesn't seem to be that pleased by her performance today.

After sausages for tea we got the Blobs into bed, then I headed back to Maunoury.  I'd seen Neil's vid os Jet Set Biscuit where he ignores the foul left hand sidepull and bops straight to the sharp jug.  I had a go at this, using both hands on the flatty as the good sidepull part was too sore.  I was catching the jug but not keeping my feet on, so dabbed every time.  I decided this was silly, so gave up and wandered down to Movement Activated.  I have a strange attraction to this problem, and this evening I realised the secret.  It was still very hot, and I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to dyno straight from the right foot hold to the top.  Then i realised I could step my left foot up again and push again.  After a few goes this seemed the way to go, although it's unfortunately very blind and almost random as to where your foot hits.  The good goes I was getting fingertips over the top, I need another centimetre and it's done.  And I know I can do this, I love this 2G s**t.  I think I'll leave it for the last day though, it's one that can be done with fingers covered in tape.

So tomorrow, a busy Sunday in the Forest.  I need to find some big holds to dangle on, maybe a dyno or two.  Thanks to the people for suggestions but the highball ones will have to wait until I have more that one pad and a spotter available.  5 days, 4 more 7s to do..... could this ridiculous aim actually be achievable?

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Which path to take
8 August 2010, 8:23 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 143

First thing today I went to Gorge aux Chats, somewhere I've never visited before.  There were a few 7s I wanted to look at, but most turned out to have painful holds.  One was a dyno I was keen to try but the landing was less than encouraging.  I looked at Rubis, which looks good, then left.  I hadn't got the guide so I headed to somewhere I know- Canche- promptly I failed on everything I tried.  I was pleased to make progress on Grande Marche though- using a deeper (and more painful to my right knee) egyptian I actually managed the first move.  I also nearly held the next move, so this may be a possibility in the future.  It wasn't long before I went home.

We went to a Patisserie to get some snacks and bread, then  had lunch.  The afternoon was spent in Fontainebleau doing the touristy things.  After the Blobs were in bed, I headed to Apremont Bizons to look at a 7a unnamed dyno.  I was getting very close to this as a dyno, both feet off.  Unfortunately I was losing skin fast in the 28 degree heat at 20:30!!  I arrived at a junction.

Someone, I think it was Nibile, spoke of junctions at some point.  I was stood under that problem tonight with a decision to make.  After investing time, energy and skin in being so close to doing it I had two options.  Walk away, accept that conditions were poor and save skin.  Or, keep going because of the time/effort/skin already invested and the knowledge that I was soooo close.  Tonight I opted for the latter, and after more failed attempts I had a hole in my right middle fingertip.  Balls.  I knew this was a possibility in the heat of August, with 11 days of climbing.  I was just getting to the point that I thought 10 7s in 11 days was actually a possibility, but now that seems less likely.  I'm very pleased with what I've done, don't get me wrong, but the ridiculous aim seemed possible for a while.

So, another junction.  To achieve the aim I need to do 4 more 7s, and I have 4 more days.  Do I save skin, take a rest day to regroup?  Or do I try the Balls out method in the knowledge that one flapper could end the trip.  If I go for the former I could concentrate on something like Movement Activated, and potentially go home with a really cool tick.  To be honest, it's just great to be here.  Tonight I failed to do the problem I should have done, fucked skin in the process.  But then I walked back throught the forest at twilight watching the bats and listening to the insects- and it doesn't matter about the failure, it's all part of the experience.  Besides, we're back here in Easter.

I'm not making decisions tonight.  I will set the alarm for 6am again and I shall see where the path takes me.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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A miss is as good as a mile
9 August 2010, 7:47 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 144

The alarm woke me at 6am.  I felt crap and shattered, so I went back to sleep.  Decision made.  Today we went to Bases de loisirs at Buthiers and spent some time swimming, minigolfing etc etc.  Hot today too, 32 degrees this evening on the way back.  I had a 2 minute look at Musclor on the way home, which seemed fairly skin friendly.

After tea and Blob bedtime it was still 29 degrees (8pm) so I sacked plan A of Movement Activated, and went back to Buthiers Canard.  Musclor seemed OK, the first hard move is a big slap for a fair flatty, then a hard lock to a 2 finger pocket.  After this it was OK and I was sure I'd nail it if I could hold the pocket.  The first move proved to be low percentage initially as it's pretty blind, then with practice I got it more frequently.  The second move was fine in isolation but after the first I wasn't making it.  It was getting pretty irritating.  I developed a blister on the left index finger, 2nd joint.  I taped it up, and had a think.  I realised that I needed to drop my right foot off for the move to the pocket so I could do it with more of a layback.  After a couple of failed attempts I got it sussed and held the pocket from the sitter.  I had expected this to mark the verge of victory, but the pocket felt funny and I couldn't hold it static as normal.  I slapped RH up for the next hold and fell off.  This was when I discovered I'd got a flapper on the ulnar side of my left ring finger, a decent sized one too.  So that was that, another should have been ticked problem.  I headed for home, it was 21:30 and still 26 degrees.

I think I'll have to admit that I'll not manage 10 seventh grade problems now.  I may have a serious look at Movement Activated, see if I can get that done this time.  It'd be a cool tick.  At least I know there's 2 definite 7a ticks on the Easter trip.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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What a difference a day makes
10 August 2010, 5:49 pm

Days of rain- 77

Dry days- 145

Another 6am start.  I wandered up to Maunoury to try Movement Acivated.  I never really got the timing today so after half an hour of failing, I left it.  I was going to go straight home but I noticed a nice line round left of MA, starting in a hole with an undercut and working up a sinuous crack and a mono, so I thought I'd give it a go.  Not having a guide I wasn't sure what it was.  There seemed to be a hard move to get the RH in the sinuous crack, and another to sort the feet to match hands.  After this was a slap from the mono to a fair hold, and a top out to do.  I could keep my left foot on for the slap to the top, if you were shorter it'd be a bit of a jump and subsequently a bit harder.

It took a while to get the hard moves linked, then I tried it from the sitter.  After another few goes I topped it out.  I got some shots from other angles then walked back out.  I did a bit of driving related video on the way home, then looked up Bleau.info over a strong filter coffee.  It seems the problem I did was L'Œil de Boîte dans l'Épaule, a morpho 7a.  Easy for the tall I suspect, but quite a nice problem.

We all headed to Rocher Canon, so that the Boss could get going on the yellow circuit.  Initially I had a look at a couple of 7as, one of which was nicely skin friendly.  Lève la Patte involves a jump start to a pair of slopers, then a gutsy pull to get your right foot on a smear and then a bit of grovelling.  Initially I really struggled, then one go it just worked and I was on top.  Obviously I had to have it on film, so I set the camera up and went to do it again.  Oh ho, I struggled to repeat it again but eventually I got it done.  The hardest thing is avoiding touching the adjacent boulder, probably soft for 7a but that's what it gets on Bleau and in the Bible.

We wandered back down to near the parking for lunch.  I walked round to find Chasseur de Prises, which has a painful left hand crimp and was thus struck from the list.  After lunch we went to the yellow circuit, but I got distracted by trying a couple of other 7s.  Basically, I got spanked on Retrouvaille and Les Câlins de Kim and the it wwas time for the Boss to crush.  I think she was a little apprehensive as some kids old us there were loads of snakes going about, but she'd all but done a 3c in trainers so that was a bonus.  But then it rained, the Blobs wanted to go home, and that was that.  We headed for home, I felt a bit guilty as I'd wanted the Boss to get on something.

So now the position has changed again.  8 down, 2 to go and 2 days in which to do it.  Tomorrow is a Disney day so the skin may get a rest.  Then Thursday and Friday are there for the taking.  It's back to problem choice again........

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Disney in the rain.
11 August 2010, 9:47 pm

Days of rain- 78

Dry days- 145

Lots of rain today, not a lot of time when it was dry.  We got to Disneyland just after 10am, and left at about 21:30.  There was a diversion getting off the A4 which lost us 20 minutes, and we had a brief ring twitcher when we acquaplaned somewhat.  Thank goodness for Quattro technology.

Very wet today, the forecast isn't great for the next 48 hours either.  I will be seriously unchuffed if I fail in my aim due to caused outside my control (ie it rains for the next 2 days).  Fingers crossed.  Again.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Jim]

Fingers crossed G, its raining back in Blighty too

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Pulling failure from the grasp of success
12 August 2010, 6:10 pm

Days of rain- 78

Dry days- 146

It rained last night so I didn't head out until 7.  I went to Isatis, and when I arrived the temperatures were high and the nocturnal dampness made conditions awful.  I tried Surplomb Gauche but it wasn't happening, so I wandered around failing on l'Angle Bens', le Renard Bleu (wasn't really sure what this does), le Faux Baquet and Code Secret Directe.  After this I had another few goes on Surplomb Gauche, falling off the top out again due to sandy and greasy holds.  Feck.  I did Red 15 as a double dyno, just for the Real Thing tick.  Unfortunately, it may be called "7a Double Dyno" in the film but it won't get added to the 7s ticks.

I dropped in at the Atac on the way home for the essentials, then after lunch we hit Rocher Canon again.  I had a look at a couple of 7as, 36.15 being one I was keen for.  Basically there was one move into the high undercut I coudn't work out so in the end I gave it up as a bad job.  The Blobs did the start of the white circuit, then the Boss crushed some yellows.  She is definitely getting better at her footwork and having more confidence.

My shoulders feel sore tonight, so it's wine, pizza and chips.  I think I'll have a last visit to Buthiers tomorrow, although I suspect the game is well and truly up now since I have blood seeping from 4 seperate fingers.  May head to Canche again for more kid's and yellow circuit action, so I may try Grande Marche again.  And then that's it.  Boo hoo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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That's all, Folks
13 August 2010, 6:02 pm

Days of rain- 79

Dry days- 146

Another early start and I went to Buthiers as it's close and we had to go shopping this morning.  I looked at Dernier Problem Droite but the crimp was damn sharp.  I ended up at the Ramp, which I couldn't even pull onto today.  the shoulders fely utter devoid of any strength and my old superficial radial nerve entrapment was giving me gyp so my right arm was numb too.  basically, it wasn't happening so I was back at the gite by 8am.

After buying gallons of wine, we had lunch then headed for Rocher Saint-Germaine where there were a few things I wanted to try as well as dynos I expected I could do (and measure).  Just as we arrived it pissed it down- no fun for the lady with the umbrella in high heels, short skirt and low cut top standing by the cross- so we turned around and headed for Sabots to measure Smash again (I wanted to be sure I'd got it right as I didn't believe my last measurement).  On our way it cleared up but the parking was rammed so we headed to Roche aux Oiseaux for a look.  I had a go at Brazil, which I think I could see how to do but struggled with.  i notice Bleau says a hold has broken, but it'd still go I reckon.  Uruguay seemed like a goer but needed a spot.  So we left and headed back to Sabots, where it promptly rained so we headed home.

Now we have done some packing ready for the trip.  Always sad to leave Font, and despite only getting 8 out of 10 of my aims I've enjoyed the forest as usual.  Some things to come back to for closure though.....

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Back to the Cake
18 August 2010, 9:06 pm

Days of rain- 83

Dry days- 147

Saturday was a long day.  We packed quickly and got away fine, such that we arrived at he ferry at 3.  Three were no spaces on the 4pm ferry so we had to wait until the one we were booked on.  With the 20 minute delay it was 5:40.  After the crossing we drove all the way back and arrived home about midnight.  I'm still recovering.

Sunday night we went out with some friends, then I got the footage from the HV20- 47 minutes worth.  Monday was the first day at the new place of employment, then an evening of editing.  The same for Tuesday, Part 1 of the video is now uploaded.  Part 2 needs to wait until Sunday as I'm too tight to pay for a Pro Vimeo account.  Once that's up I'll post them on here.

After work today I went to Brownstones with The Ginnster.  We spent a couple of hours doing stuff in the pool area, Ginnster's hand still in the process of healing and my skin was trashed.  Half day closing tomorrow, so I may go for a run.  Or maybe climb, if it manages not to rain.  I have a free day on Sunday, but I'm not sure where to go as yet.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Slow and steady
19 August 2010, 6:21 pm

Days of rain- 84

Dry days- 147

Half day at the practice so I was home early.  I was half thinking about a bouldering session but it drizzled for a bit so I opted for plan B- running.  I did an old circuit around home, planning to do the 10km version.  Half way round I was sweating cobs and I had sore feet.  My usual running shoes died in Font and were disposed of.  Today I wore my old fell shoes, which aren't as comfy and have given me blisters in the past.  In the end I did the 8.73km run at a rather pathetic 10.1kmh.  I was pleased to do it all as a run, some of the grass hills have made me walk in the past.  It was still 6 minutes slower than the PB for that route.

So it's been raining this evening.  I hope it improves for Sunday.  Nemo is apparently planning a Cobble/ Bees trip, I'm not sure I can be bothered going that far.  I'd toyed with the Cliff but a dry Sunday will be annoyingly busy and may not suit my skin.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Domesticity and video uploading
21 August 2010, 10:43 am

Days of rain- 85

Dry days- 148

Yesterday I bought some coriander from A**A, the well known supermarket (yeah I know) to go with a kebab I was making.  Not only did it have a nettle in it, but it's also gone completely slimy overnight so I can't take it back without rotten fluid dripping everywhere.  Arse.

The Boss is working today, so I have the Blobs and the house to myself.  We went to the Blob swimming class this morning and when we got back the sun was out.  I've just got the bike out (at last- the last time I rode it was 7 months ago) and it was filthy and the battery was dead.

After some electronics botching I managed to get enough charge into the battery for the slow charger to recognise it.  So that's going to take a while to get back to normal power (if the battery isn't f**ked).  I've just washed the thing and gone over it with degreaser and chrome polish.  Some rust has appeared on the forks etc, but nothing too drastic.  Brakes feel pretty stiff though, and the fuel pump has tried working to get some fuel through with no success yet.  This afternoon I'll give it a wax and check it over so I can hopefully take it out soon to see what drops off.

Finally got both vids uploaded, so here they are.  You're probably better off watching them in Vimeo if you want decent quality.  Don't expect anything too exciting though, noone decent came on the trip with me.

from GCW on Vimeo.

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[robertostallioni]

Whats with all the **, you c**t?

[GCW]

Just in case sensitive people read it.  Or people from Asda.

[robertostallioni]

Just in case sensitive people read it.  Or people from Asda.

SAME THING. ASDA IS CASE SENSITIVE.

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Esoteric Skin Shredding
22 August 2010, 6:59 pm

Days of rain- 85

Dry days- 149

The Boss was taking Blobs to meet up with a friend today, so I had most of the day free.  I was unsure where to go, but in the end I plumped for Snowden Crags near Blubberhouses.  It was raining here this morning, and continued to do so all the way to Skipton.  I managed to find where I was going, and parked in the not-so-obvious parking.  Getting to the buttresses involved quite a bit of fern wading, definitely a winter venue.

I ended up at Rainbow wall initially, I had been keen to try Tantric Traverse.  I warmed up on Naked Yoga which I should have done 4th go but missed the big jug over the top.  It then took me a while to get it done, and my thin skin was even thinner.  I had a look at Tantric which was super greasy, although I was managing to get a few inches from the fair edge.  Getting back and wathing I realise my left foot was far too far right.  I think with better conditions and more skin this may go.

After this I had a look at Nigel's Roof, but I really struggled to pull on as I couldn't fit myself under the roof.  I moved back to the Brock Buttress for a look at the Groove.  After a few false sequences I worked out a way of rocking up with the left heel, then an awkward and powerful hopping of the foot to a smear.  Then lots of slapping and udging to victory.  Nice, if awkward, problem.  Then the last thing to look at was Skull Buttress, and JCB.  This involved a slap to the sloping top, which was very gritty and which I really struggled to hold with one hand.  The starting edge was also very harsh, one of those crystal filled crimps, so in the end I stried it as a double dyno and landed it first go.  The top out proved to be a scrittly fight but it was in the bag.  So I headed home.

So we've been out to the pub for tea, an early celebration, and now Blob 2 is playing up and not going to sleep.  I need to grow some skin.

Rubbish vid- no sound as Adobe was playing up for some reason.



Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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The Arthur Dent Approach to Running
24 August 2010, 7:52 pm

Days of rain- 87

Dry days- 149

I obviously had to work a bit on Sunday as I've had aching shoulders and left elbow since.  Another year older yesterday so we sat in with wine and a film (Green Zone with Matt Damon, OK but nothing special).

After another day at work we go the Blobs sorted and in bed.  I have to say the weather has been utter crap the last 2 days, so bouldering is going to be out.  I was quite keen to head back to Jumbles to film Sit Thee Down and the Crescent of Embrace/Flight 93 on the HV20.  I'll be interested to see how hard Crescent is, after speaking to Dave Mann I'm thinking I've given it a sandbag grade.

Anyway, once the Blobs were in bed I headed out for a run.  I managed to do the same circuit as last time, and without getting blisters too.  I listened to The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy on my way round, and got into a decent rhythm quite quickly and didn't stop.  The upshot was the 8.7km in 47:36, still a minute slower than the best ever but at least it's 4 1/4 minutes quicker than last week.  The main downside is that it's caned my left elbow, so that's aching more than ever.  Jeez, you hit 34 and fall apart.

I'm off Thursday afternoon so I'm psyched to get back to Not Bad Dave or Poison, so I hope it stays dry til then (yeah right).  I need to get back to my 7c aim, only 4 months before the end of 2010.  And only 8 months until Font!  And we still need to have a Wales trip and a County trip.  Too much to do- if only I didn't have to work.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

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Slartibartfast
25 August 2010, 7:13 pm

Days of rain- 87

Dry days- 150

I felt OK today, other than the sore elbow, and I'd suggested a run to the Ginnster.  He managed to think of an excuse at very short notice, so I was on my own.  I opted for the 5.8km route at home, the one thaat has the big muddy (cow filled) field near the end.  I tried the Hitch Hiker's system again, and got myself into a good pace and stuck to it.  It nearly killed me up the hill but I managed to run the whole thing.  I was extremely pleased to find I'd managed it in 30:09, over a minute quicker than my PB and an average of 11.54kmh which for me is pretty decent.

I'm off to cook a nice prawn curry with one of by bhut jokia and one Ancho.  There's a lovely sunset out there, so I hope tomorrow is nice weather.  I may risk a look at Woodwell, there's always Trowbarrow if it's wet.  I need to hit Warton but I'd hate to stomp up there and find it wet.  Then we're off to a wedding on Friday down Warwick way.  Beardy Beast is off to rip it up in Wales.  I'm off on Monday but I'm not sure where to go, could drag the family out I guess.  We shall see.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter