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Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 353- Project Progress
14 April 2010, 9:02 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 56
Another nice day. Also, I didn't need to be in work until later on so I went to look at Project 1. I chucked the rope down it and had a look on the shunt. The top felt nails, so I came down and repeated my traverse and One of R-Man's old problems. Then I had a look at the Ramp Project, which still feels nails when dry- I'll the BeardyBeast on it again.
I moved back to the project and bouldered the bottom twice pretty easily, as far as the set up for the crux sequence. Then I put my harness back on and had a proper go at the top section. I found a better foot sequence and made the top. This involves a couple of pretty tenuous, on-off, slaps in a position I wouldn't like to fall off. BeardyBeast felt it was font 7a+ and today it felt the grade. With the crux being the last move and no gear I guess it'd be E4 in old money.
So I'm hoping it stays dry for now. I'd like to top rope it a couple of times, then go for the solo/highball. The top out is the bit I'm really most worried about- loose blocks and mud, woo.
I'm going to try to head back to Font in August, since the Blob is off school anyway. I'm waiting to hear back to confirm my leave as well as from Neil at Maisonbleau regarding booking. The Boss has even offered to go for 2 weeks, but I'm not sure I could manage that from previous experience. Fingers crossed though, I feel as though I need to redeem myself for the shit performance this time around.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 355- More Additions
16 April 2010, 8:36 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 58
The dry, sunny weather continues.
I headed back to the project this afternoon. I did the crux bit 3 or 4 times in a row. I was going to go for it, but the mud slope top out and teh sloping landing made me want a spotter. I know it'll go though, bring on the fear.
In addition I added a new Dyno and did the same problem as a heinous mantel. I also did a direct version of one of R-Man's old problems, and got close to a project dyno. Not a bad couple of hours really.
All I need is a spotter and I'll get this done. Although I think I may have a rope up top for the mud slope......
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 359- Windy
20 April 2010, 10:03 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 61
Brief blog today. Went to the Project, but it was blowing a gale- not ideal for trying a balancy highball. Did it 3 times in a row on shunt, pretty sure it'll go down next time conditions are OK. Bumped into a guy taking photos for the new guide.
Also getting a Lancashire 7s and 8s list together, something I've meant to do for ages. Feel free to add to it here.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 360- David Vetter
21 April 2010, 6:31 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 62
After doing my tedious journal appraisal this afternoon, I headed back to Stronstrey. I was quite pleased to find it was pretty still, just a gentle breeze, and a bit warmer than yesterday.
I went up top and dangled a rope down the mud slope (which in the end I didn't use as I couldn't reach), then went back down and put my 2 mats down. As the landing is pretty sloing I pegged them down again, then put the camera up. Since I'd done it 3 times on a rope yesterday I decided not to bother shunting it again, so I put my boots on and went for it.
Before I realised it I was at the crux and it felt easy. The pop to the top was less of a pop than it has been before, I seem to manage to lean into it more so the arete jammed into my groin. But then the fun began......
I pulled up the the slightly suspect block, and the highest I'd ever been- since the shunt rope was so diagonal I've never tried the top out before. I half mantelled up, ending up resting footless on my left elbow and feeling about for a firm bit of heather. Eventually after some udging and much sketching (not to mention crapping it a bit), I managed to sling a leg over the top of the arete. Then more udging until I got a bit more height and got my right heel on, then I was up. Thank fuck for a lump of heather is all I can say. By this time I was up and didn't need my knnotted rope that was to protect the muddy top. Anyway, I apologise for the utter lack of style at the top but it was done onsight :-)
So there you are, David Vetter Font 7a+. Or E3 6c if you prefer (I wonder if it'll make it into the new guidebook). A filthy green arete I noticed one snowy day whilst taking pics for the guide, spent 5 sessions cleaning it, and another 3 dangling on a rope practicing it. I'm pretty pleased to have got it done at last, I was starting to think the fates were against me.
BeardyBeast wants to go sport climbing on Friday, and whilst it's really not my bag I may join him. I just don't trust bolts (weird, but it's because I can assess trad gear as I put it in I think) and I now have no head for leading. Not a good recipe for going sporting. Better humour him I suppose.
I've added a video of some of the new stuff 2 posts below here, and here's the new one from today. Sorry it's sketchy as fuck!!
from GCW on Vimeo.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 361- Not fit for Longridge
22 April 2010, 8:59 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 63
Pretty good conditions at Longridge, and quite busy too: in attendence were the Ginnster, Weak Sam, Mick Lovatt, The GasMan, AdamD, Serpico plus others. And I finally got to meet Andy F, who was looking as strong as I'd expected.
Basically there was some Banter, I did Kiss the Razor's Edge in 2 parts (one to aim for this year) and then had a play on The Vickers Eliminate- I was getting close to the first move, but I feel pretty weak in the left shoulder. I also failed to get the pocket on Big Marine (as usual), and this thing needs putting to bed. I'm most definitely not CyL Strong at the moment.
Anyway, tomorrow BeardyBeast has pursuaded me to go to Kilnsey where I will doubtless flail, gibber, and fail. Awesome.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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