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Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 362- St George and Kilnsey
23 April 2010, 5:40 pm
Days of rain- 47
Dry days- 64
St George's Day, although it seems to have silently slipped by all but the bastard BNP. BeardyBeast has also had his head shaved, although I'm not sure that that is at all linked.
Kilnsey. I arrived just after 10, UpTownGirl and BeardyBeast were both having a look at their little project of a font 7c+ into an F8a+/b. Looks interesting, and quite hard. I had a little look at the bouldering to warm up. My print out was hard to read as the ink was running out, but I managed a font 6a (woop) a few times. Everything felt like poor friction, almost dusty. And it all felt hard, with several holds feeling quite painful.
Anyway, I was directed to a "nice bouldery" F7a+ (Smooth Torquer? maybe) which I had a play on the start of. It had decent holds, but big reaches between them and after a couple of goes at the start I was feeling pretty tired. At this point UpTown had to shoot off to maintain domestic bliss, so BeardyBeast put some clips in and I had a look on the rope. I was managing to get the hardest move at the start but Mr Fat hands was then struggling to do the move right to the bucket. Tired, I came down and watched BeardyBeast have a go. I was quite relieved to find he struggled a bit on the hard move, and then dangled about a bit before getting to the lower off. On top rope I did the same as before, fucking up the sidepull moves. And then I was knackered and couldn't manage more than 3 moves in a row- I stripped the thing in a 90% dog, 10% climb stylee and then we left.
On my way back I had a call to say the Boss was getting home earlier than expected, so I opted for some bumbling at Widdop since it was such a nice day. Unfortunately, a rather impressive grass/heather fire had closed the Widdop parking and the road beyond, so a headed back a little and stomped up to the Clattering Stones. I've wanted to look at some of the harder problems on the big block since I visited many years ago. The Uprising is a nice line, but there's a big block next to it which is a little intimidating. I pulled on and had a slap about, but my skin was sore so I had a look at the 7a on the block. I made good progress on Fontanelles, but was losing flesh so stopped trying. Both Androsterone and Linea Nigra confused me, I was getting established and then getting nowhere fast. So I did Clatterjack Pencil again and then went home.
Basically today has confirmed what I knew anyway- I'm unfit and any what little power I have ebbs away pretty quickly. I'm certainly no sport climber but I can also see how it would help with the bouldering, so I'll have to think whether or not I want to dangle around on ropes outside/ indoors on more occasions. Or even just focus training more closely.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 364- Closure
25 April 2010, 2:56 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 65
I'm on nights at the moment, but last night wasn't too busy. Today was cold and cloudy with showers coming and going. I wanted to get out, but it would have to be somewhere exposed, quick drying, and fairly close. I've had an aim for this year that I haven't dared put into black and white, I mentioned it to BeardyBeast at Kilnsey and he pulled an "are you stupid?" face at me. But it's been bubbling on the side burner since 26/4/09, and I have never felt comfortable with it hanging over me. My aim was to gain retribution before a year was out.
With some apprehension I headed North on the M6, and parked up at Newbiggin crags. I opted for the limestone pavement approach as it's a nice walk across some lovely country but also because I had the option of trying Surfer Rosa or The Fridge low start if things went badly.
I was pretty hot when I arrived at the Best Limestone Wall in Britain, especially as I had 2 mats this time. I warmed up a bit on some of the nice easy walls around here, then turned to my objective. New Rose. A problem with a history, a Gaskins Classic. It's claimed at least 2 A2s, the other allegedly being Mr Vickers', or so Weak Sam told me once.
Last time I was here I didn't even dare pull on the right hand pocket. When I snapped the A2 I held this 2 finger half pad pocket as a full crimp, thumb pinching a crozzle. I didn't dare do that today, so I ended up doing a weird open handed thingy. 2 fingers in the pocket, but not crimping, thumb on a crozzle lower down. It felt infinitely less tweaky, but also less secure (as you'll see in the video). After a lot of faff and puffing and panting I finally pulled on and took my left hand off.
Nothing happened- no snap, no pain- nothing. Hmmm, I thought. After several more test runs I had the left hand crimp, it felt good as it was pretty cold today. I dropped off and tried to get some psyche.
With the HV20 running, I tried again- pull on, left hand to crimp, left foot up- suck in the swing- and go!! Where I'd been slapping before, today I kinda reached to the break, and there I was. I matched up and looked to the upper wall. The superdirect version uses a really painful left hand pocket to step high for the break. This was very painful, and I stepped back down and dropped off. Fuck.
The next go my right hand blew from the pocket sending me down to batter my right knee on the boulders below the problem. This made me rather angry, so I gathered myself for a proper attempt. This time I was a little less static getting the break, but then managed to wobble to the top by moving a foot to the right (this is the method Greg used in his old video if I recall correctly). And that was that. I think that the Font 7b the problem now gets is about right, but I have to say it's one of the best walls around. Awesome.
After this I went to have a brief look at The Coil. I tried twice, and almost held the break twice but my skin was sore after ripping out of the New Rose pocket, so I went home. I have to say though, Farleton is looking a mess today- tons of chalk everywhere with tick marks and fingertape and drink bottles left lying around. I've tidied up as much as I could, but let's not ruin our crags.
So it's my last night tonight, and with New Rose put to bed I am free to try other things. With sore skin, more lime action may be required- I'll see what the BeardyBeast is up to. Off to bed now for a brief sleep.
from GCW on Vimeo.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
butterworthtom:
Nice one on going back to beat an old foe. New rose is a very nice problem. I haven't managed it yet, but from my attempts it felt harder than 7B, perhaps it will feel easier when I go back? I don't mean to belittle you're achievement but perhaps you have a lankvantage?
GCW:
As I'm sure you'll know, it was always 7c- but then Greg saw I managed to keep my low foot on, and he (and others) have managed it the same way. I may be lanky but the same sequence has been done by a few others. Greg seems to think 7a+/b.
Basically I reckon if you can pull really hard on that foul pocket, you'll find it easy. I think it's hard, I'd personally reckon 7b/+ but I seem to be in a minority there.
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Windy Clough
26 April 2010, 4:03 pm
Days of rain- 48
Dry days- 66
As you'll see, I'm not counting days any more- partly because I had always intended to stop at a year, and partly because I don't need to anymore.
I had a crap night at work last night, not impressed at all. Consequently I was knackered when I got home and my plan of going to look at Woodwell OR looked a bit silly. Add to that an aching left shoulder and things didn't look hopeful. It was dull and grey this morning, so I fell upon the idea of going to Windy Clough. This is a venue I bouldered at when my Grandmother was alive, but I haven't been since about 1995 I think. I've spent a fair bit of time finding rocks in the past, so it was a nice reminisce to go back and try some of the stuff from Greg's guide.
First up I went to the boulders near the top of the hill. I jumped straight on Bodacious, a one move 7a. Initially I felt nowhere near to getting it, but then something clicked and I was holding the top, but dabbing as my foot swung off. 3rd time I hit the top I didn't dab, so topped out in style. Then I did the 6c to the right (Bully for Bugs), but the top out wasn't stylish. To tick the block I did the easy traverse, which was quite nice.
Then over to the other side of the hill. I got shut down on Live Evil, mainly as my left hand was thin on skin so it hurt like crazy. I did Welcome to the Palindrome first go, which was nice. And then I went to look at No Country For Old Men, a funky arete thingy. This was coated in chalk and tick marks, which I spent some time scrubbing off- I won't go on about it as I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but c'mon people. Initially I was really struggling with a few of the moves, but slowly I managed to get them until I'd done all of them. Now, I have no doubt that Greg did this by bringing a (right?) foot out to the lip once he'd got the high hold on the arete. Me being lanky, I kept a foot low down and kept slapping slopers ending up at absolute full stretch and then having to suck in a swing on slopers. Greg, I apologise in advance if this sequence offends your eyes ;-)Having said that, I still found this pretty hard so it's still at least 7b using lankiness- but if you're taller than me it may be easier.
After countless failed links, I finally managed to get everything to stick and got to the lip. Off came the feet, and lo!- I managed to stay on- just the top out to do and it was in the bag. Unfortunately, my skin is pretty screwed now from all the sliding off the holds so that may impact on venues for tomorrow. I had another go at cleaning chalk off the thing, then sat down and ate some Jaffa cakes. I had a chat to an older guy that was having a look about, he seems to spend a lot of time in Silverdale but I didn't recognise him. Then I headed down to warm down on the Rigg Lane Boulders. I did problems 1-5 in my Boosters in a further attempt to wear them in, then headed back to the car bumping into someone else with a Greg guide and a pad.
There's a lot of rock here, and at Baines, but from previous explorations I know that not a lot of it is worth climbing. I seem to remember there's a couple of the larger blocks on the west flank of the hill have some good lines, but the landings tend to be gash and the approach tedious. Further up Clougha there's a couple of bigger buttresses with some low end stuff, bit of a walk though. If you're local you can spend ages searching the place.
On the way home I stopped off at Quernmore chapel for the overdue paying of respects, got to me more today for some reason, tiredness I assume. And then back here, and shortly I'll head out to pick the Blobs up. I've had a message that BeardyBeast has been onsight soloing top end trad today- sickening, all this crush gets a bit tedious after a while.
I wonder where to go tomorrow......
from GCW on Vimeo.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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