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Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 347- Total Motivation Failure
8 April 2010, 6:41 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 50
I've no idea what happened today. It was raining until 10 or so, so we had a group breakfast with Rick making porridge. We got a few pics of front levers on the local roadsign too. After this, we went to Milly to have coffee and a pain au chocolate/raisin in order for the rocks to dry out. Nemo, Jay and Baz met up with us there- sounds like they've been going well. After coffee we headed over to Roche aux Sabots. This was a somewhere with lots of problems I wanted to do- Smash, Graviton, l'Oblique, JetSet to name a few.
First off we had a look at Zen, and after 2 tries I realised this wasn't a problem for me and my long legs. Nemo was coming close but succumbed to Font Elbow. Jay was looking strong on the end, but hated the start. Baz nailed the problem after a few close calls. Mike was battling a Nemesis- he got a solid sequence for the last bit, but on the link wasn't managing to reach for victory. Jay showed me where Gasthaus Unterslag was, only to find Rutaska and Tom P in situ. Looks an horrendous penalty for missing the last move on this, a big mud slope awaiting.
After this I went back to join the family. I realised I had no motivation at all to try anything else. I don't know why, but I just couldn't be bothered trying anything. So we took the kids to the kid's white circuit, and spent a couple of hours watching them do problems. Then it was time to leave as it was our turn to do tea- sausage, mash and baked beans. I'm not sure where we're off to tomorrow, but I hope I get some psyche back to do something.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 348- Redemption
9 April 2010, 9:40 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 51
This morning I was awake at 6:15 and couldn't get back to sleep. Maybe it was the poor performance of yesterday tormenting my soul, but whatever it was I got up and drove to Sabots. It was still dark when I arrived, but I headed for JetSet determined to get one of my aims ticked. First go I bothed the right foot and fell off the first move. Second go I slapped the top and didn't hold it. It then took quite a few falls from the first move or the match move before I was back at the final pop. This time I nailed the thing. I had a few goes on Smatch, and was touching the hold every time although I didn't really get the timing right and wasn't really pulling hard as it caned my elbows. Then I headed home for coffee and breakfast.
After food we all headed to Bouligny so BeardyBeast could get on Beaux Quartiers. Unfortunately conditions were poor, so we left after a short visit. Although we did get to eat the pastries BeardyBeast had brought for us.
A visit to Franchard Cuisinier ensued, with BeardyBeast and Rick both doing Beatle Juice pretty easily. We all moved areas, and after a spot of lunch in the sun we had a look at a few of the problems. Misericorde is high and Karma looks nails, so we settled on a nice prow some guys were trying. I got very close to doing Le Mouton à 5 Pattes, falling off the move to the pocket quite a few times. Rick and BeardyBeast declared it rubbish, and my skin was starting to hurt. Then we moved on to Le Mouton à 6 Pattes just to the right. Most people seemed to use a crimp for the right hand, but tallies used a good sidepull out right. For me this was full stretch and a really hard move to catch, certainly no easier than the prow direct. Anyway, we all managed this one and I can sleep at night despite using the sidepull as it was still hard to get to it!
We all decamped to Apremont fo r coffe/beer at the cafe. Rick and co headed off to make tea, and Mike and family went to the supermarket. BeardyBeast and miniBeast accompanied the lank family to look at La Médaille en Chocolat which really hurt my sore skin, so we were soon heading for home. After tea I gave the ladies a lift to Buthiers to try a nemesis white problem slab. It remains a nemesis, but it was a lovely evening at a crag.
So we head for home tomorrow, back to the grind. After a poor Font performance I'm angry enough to get back on all my unfinished business.......
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 349- Luton
10 April 2010, 9:54 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 52
This has come full circle- posting from a phone whilst sat in the bathroom of a Travelodge, albeit it in Luton this time.
Today has been a busy day, mainly due to packing and travelling. We were on the same ferry as Rick and family, and it left a little later than the supposed 17:20. At least SeaFrance weren't on strike still.
After this we stopped at Ashford for fuel and food. The Blobs were tired so we were onto a loser from the start. Then Pizza Hut decided to use BBQ sauce on our Hawaiian and the Blobs rebelled. Blob 2 fell asleep and Blob 1 was hyper. At least we got a correct pizza as well and weren't charged.
Next up the m25 had road works and we took a detour up and back down the M11 which added half an hour to the journey. So here we are in Luton. I hope my car is in one piece in the morning.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Addendum
12 April 2010, 5:34 am
Just a quick note to let you know the car was in one piece after Luton, and we all got home fimr.
Here's as much footage as we took. Sorry it's a bit rubbish, blame Rick, Mike and BeardyBeast for doing things too quickly.
from GCW on Vimeo.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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Day 352- Project Failure!
13 April 2010, 1:26 pm
Days of rain- 46
Dry days- 55
Today is another 14-22:00 shift, but I had Blob 1 all morning. We had a wander up to Project Number 2, up at Healey Nab. The Ginnster was going to join us but he ended up heading to Wilton for a look at Snakey B. The Blob and I were up at the crag by 8:30 but it soon warmed up. Conditions weren't great, everything felt a bit greasy.
Healey Nab is in quite good nick at the moment (for The Nab) as the trees have shrunk down a bit and there's not too much moss. I got stuck into my Project. This is something I don't seem to be getting closer to. One go today I actually weighted the finishing hold, but slid off. It's basically 2 hard moves, the second being the hardest. It also needs a good pull on the sharp left hand crimp and after a dozen goes it was slicing my skin, so I left it for another day.
The Blobdid some clambering up and down and then amused herself by dancing around in the sun. I noticed a sitter for a pillar thing, which I did after a number of goes- probably a first ascent at around 6a+. I also managed a sitter right of Andi's Mantle, going from a sit on the ledge and slapping to the top from a left heel. Again, I don't think anyone has bothered with it before. I did the last bit of Titanium Traverse quite easily, and static. Then it was time to go home and drop the Blob off at Grandad's. I need to head back to finish off all my projects soon. And maybe head back to Font soon.
Oh, and my 41 Boosters arrived whilst we were away. They are very tight, so I'll have to see how much they stretch. Heels much better though.
Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter
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