[Bubba]

Any sneaky beta?

I gave up hope of doing it in any sort of pure onsight stylee after failing on it miserably for half an hour last time I was there.

[AndyR]

I think there's a video clip of me doing it on the yorkshiregrit.com web-page.  I'm 5'9'' so if you're of a similar stature that may work for you - I know jon can't reach the higher crimp with his feet still in the break......

[Bubba]

Cheers Andy - I actually realised after posting this that I'd downloaded that clip a while back and it was already on my hard drive!

Never got up to the Slipstones due to weather anyway, so it'll have to wait for another day.

[tomtom]

Ressurcting this topic!

Just had a couple of hours of failure on this problem. I've seen the Ygrit Video's and Fiends one and....

Being tall I can get to the point of holding the gastons/crozzles on  the arete (RH high, LH med) with both my feet just in the break. I then need to swing my left peg round onto the obvious lower ledge and rock around and over on it...

But it feels like in order to get my foot high enough, my RIGHT foot needs to be doing something and its just hanging about/pops off the low break. None of the vids/photo's show it from the RH side where you could see the right foot. So is a smear or dab (on not much) whats required by the Rf or is this simply a job of manning up and doing half a pull up to give me the room to bring my lf up?

Annoying as my skin gave up before muscles/enthusiasm! Thats what happens when you climb on too much pastic I guess..

[dave]

you can just paste you left foot on some smear or other and pop for either the top or the pocket round the arete with your right hand.

[tomtom]

you can just paste you left foot on some smear or other and pop for either the top or the pocket round the arete with your right hand.

  You've not seen me climb! I tried that - & my puny arms were working full tilt just to keep my hands on those holds! If only I could just pad up the wall and pop for the pocket! I'll need some foot faggotory to get around this I think... 

Ah, it was a bit damp - though SLB was about the only dry ish thing at the crag...

[sjw]

I seem to remember getting the top hold with LH and lower for RH with feet still low. Then when you paste your right foot up high (nowhere inparticular) because you're hands are crossed you can really squeeze like a motherfucker to get your left foot on the good edge. I'd just get on Layby Arete instead anyway, it's easier and not shit.

[Paul B]

If you're suggesting sulky is shit then 

I think its just a case of pasting your right foot on nothing until it 'doesn't pop one time. One thing is for certain the FA'ist won't have popped at all.

[Fiend]

Being tall I can get to the point of holding the gastons/crozzles on  the arete (RH high, LH med) with both my feet just in the break.

Classy V5 like that 

IF you're flexible you could probably sneak the left foot around from there. Otherwise you're going to have to paste, there aren't any secret footholds on the wall. Depending how stretched you are it might be useful to scuzz up with your left knee / foot before getting your right high enough.

[sjw]

If you're suggesting sulky is shit then 

I think its just a case of pasting your right foot on nothing until it 'doesn't pop one time. One thing is for certain the FA'ist won't have popped at all.

Sorry, what I meant to say was "I find it completely desperate whichever method I use, and my vagina hurts". And you're right about the FA...maybe he can tell us the V2 way of doing it 

[GCW]

What's the likelihood of stuff at Slipstones being dry on, say, Monday?  Mainly interested in SLB and LaybyArete.  Do they dry quickly, or is drainage/seepage an issue?

[sjw]

The crag normally dries really quickly in my experience, I reckon it's almost as reliable as the cliff. It's just a case of how much snow hangs around/melts over the weekend...there's no real seepage issues on those two problems.

[GCW]

Thanks.
It's almost 2 hours away so I don't want to head over to find I need a snorkel.

[tomtom]

What's the likelihood of stuff at Slipstones being dry on, say, Monday?  Mainly interested in SLB and LaybyArete.  Do they dry quickly, or is drainage/seepage an issue?

The seepage was from snowmelt on top. Once the sun came up it dried quick. If no more snow / rain would be fine I recon. There's a webcam on the webcam thread I swaledale that's not too far away.

Thanks for the beta everyone..

[SA Chris]

Thanks.
It's almost 2 hours away so I don't want to head over to find I need a snorkel.

Prolly not a snorkel, but wellies would be a good idea.

[tomtom]

Was back having a play on this again today. Signficant improvements - now managing to pull up on the arete holds (a bit) paste some feet on the wall and get the LF around onto the hold below the starting crimp.. but that rock over feels really bunched up for me! Still progress and next time I should be able to start trying to rock over on that foot a bit more.

But managed to get crescent arete done  a very fine problem... forgotten just how good the friction is at slipstones - a great place...

[SA Chris]

Didn't know there was a crescent arete there too. Not been there in ages, will need to this year.

[tomtom]

Didn't know there was a crescent arete there too. Not been there in ages, will need to this year.

Tits, my mistake Chris - I meant leaning wall (arete on the RH side of RH twin..) a really nice problem...

[SA Chris]

Ah. There are some great probs in that sector.