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TheLowDown
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Nalle's Sisu-project
13 April 2010, 9:20 am
I know some think it's wrong to hype unclimbed routes or boulder problems. I'm not going to get into that particular issue right now, but let me just say, the Sisu-project is not going to be climbed soon, so you'll have plenty of time to forget about it. It looks amazingly cool though, not to mention how impossible it looks. So far, Nalle has been able to make one move out of ~11, plus almost two foot moves. Each of these, he told me, are ~8A in their own right. Yes, the foot moves. And the move he's done, is most likely the easiest (not counting the top-out). According to Nalle, this doesn't represent the next level, but rather the next, next level!
You can find the full story on his blog.
Source: TheLowDown
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Foreplay?
14 April 2010, 7:28 pm
Despite complaining about feeling sick yesterday, and being generaly miserable due to bad weather, Dave Graham pulled one out of the hat today by doing Open your mind, 8c+, at Santa Linya. "KING OF THE CAVE TODAY!!! HOOORAYYY!!!!!!! One more route of the list in the cave, which is just GREAT". Now... is it just me, or is there just a tad of sarcasm there. It's subtle I know, but still. Let's hope Papichulo dries up fast. Dave is really close and time is running up. Come on Dave, you can rest in Stockholm. A Muerte!!
Photo: Dave on Papichulo. With any luck I'll use this one again soon.
Source: TheLowDown
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Schidlowski climbs Adrenalin, 8c+
15 April 2010, 8:20 am
As "Daniel" wrote in one of the comments below, 20 year old, Martin Schidlowski has managed to make the FOTHFA* of Alexander Huber's Adrenalin at Karlstein in southern Germany. The FA was done in 2001 and the 2nd ascent by brother Thomas in 2004.
*First Outside The Huber Family Ascent
Source: TheLowDown
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Watch out for the Finns!
16 April 2010, 6:08 am
If I'd ask you to name two Finnish climbers, I'm guessing most of you would struggle to come up with a second name after Nalle. Being from Sweden, I'd do a bit better, as Finland does have a pretty good track record when it comes to producing strong climbers. The latest guy to watch out for is 18 year old Anthony Gullsten. Andy to his friends. During a 3 week trip to Switzerland last summer (then 17), he did 11 problems in the 8A-8A+ range, and the start of this season looks even more promising, with 2 8A's, one 8A+ and his first 8B, the 3rd ascent of Nalle's Hypergravity at Sipoo. He's also began working Nalle's The Globalist, 8B+. Here's a list of the hardest boulders in Finland. For now... Watch this space!
Photo: Andy Gullsten working The Globalist.
Source: TheLowDown
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Nice action from Nice!
16 April 2010, 10:21 am
The season has kick-started around Nice. At Castillon two notable ascents have already been recorded, both from the hands (and feet) of locals. Stéfanie Crouvizier repeated the very bouldery Taille fine, 8b+, and Enzo Oddo has made the FA of Les Griffes du Wombat, 8c+, a route bolted by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz. The crux, a section described as an ~8A boulder on small holds, comes at the very top, so it's kinda important to keep the powder dry while climbing the 50 or so moves before this.
Source: Nice climb/Kairn
Photo: Stéfanie Crouvizier on Taille fine, by Phil Maurel
Source: TheLowDown
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