[comPiler]

Shibadaang! No, ShibaDAAMNG!
9 May 2010, 3:47 pm

Isaac Caldiero making the 3rd ascent of Kevin J's mega highball Ambrosia at the Buttermilks.

Just got back from Egypt, so bare with me as I gather momentum getting up to speed.



Source: TheLowDown

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Melloblocco
10 May 2010, 5:24 am

As always, Melloblocco was a success. 2455 gathered in the Mello valley in northern Italy for a fierce battle of the pebbles. Well, come to think of it, I guess "friendly" is a more suitable word here.

Not so unexpectedly, Adam Ondra dominated the men's field, sending 7 out of the 8 competition problems, as did Chloé Graftiaux among the women.

Sources: Melloblocco/Kairn

Source: TheLowDown

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Semper Fi, 8B+, with the quickness
10 May 2010, 10:41 am

Felix Knaub has made a very quick 3rd ascent of Markus Bock's Semper Fi, 8B+, in the Frankenjura. Boulderrausch writes that he came very close to sending it on his first try after working out the moves, succeeding on his next go. Two weeks ago he dispatched Riot act, 8B+, another testpiece signed Bocki.

Photo: Andi Barth on the problem, by Raimund Matros.

Source: TheLowDown

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Time travelling?
10 May 2010, 1:38 pm

In a recent (deleted due to the fact that I deleted the, very old as it were, news it was commenting) comment, someone asked me if I had perhaps gone time travelling on my holiday. Well... kind of, as I haven't checked any news what so ever from the "outside world" during the 15 days. I'm more or less up to date now, but I don't really have time to post any news about Ondra's trip to the UK, Jimmy Webb's 3rd and Carlo Traversi's 4th ascent of Suspension of disbelief in the Eldorado canyon, Dai's sending spree in Swizzy (it's raining a lot there, but he's making progress on The story of 2 worlds), and so on and so forth.

This Wednesday, provided the ash cloud doesn't close down the airports, Dave Graham comes to Stockholm to host a couple of clinics. He'll be staying at my place, so I'm pretty sure we'll find time for a big interview. If the weather cooperates, and Dave's finger gets better, we'll go climbing as well.

Stay tuned.

Source: TheLowDown

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Hampi and Badami guide
10 May 2010, 5:21 pm

Rohit Chauhan, a professional climber from India, recently published the first guide book of Hampi and Badami. The guide features more than 500 boulder problems at Hampi and more than 70 bolted sport routes at Badami.

To order it, contact Rohit: rohit.climber@gmail.com

Source: TheLowDown

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Crackoholic, the review
11 May 2010, 7:52 am

This review is long overdue. Sorry about that, but here we go.

Crackoholic , by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg, is quite different to most other climbing movies I've watched, and I've watched a lot. The style is somewhat similar to that of the classic Hard grit, in that it provides a historical perspective to the climbing in area. In this case Bohuslän on the Swedish west coast. We also get to meet and listen to some of the climbers who, through the decades, have been important to the development, of difficulty as well as ethics, and hear their thoughts on climbing and risk. As would be expected, these thoughts range from profound to cliché. Of course, there's also a lot of climbing, from moderates to FA's of cutting edge "death" routes.

So, some reflections:

- Being a Swedish climber myself, I really enjoyed the history part, as I didn't know much about it to be honest. Whether it's as interesting to foreign climbers is difficult to know, but why not?

- The footage is impeccable and you get a great sense of the stunning beauty of the area.

- I'd have preferred a tad less talking and more climbing, but I guess that's a matter of personal taste.

All and all, if you're at all interested in traditional climbing, you should get this movie asap.

Source: TheLowDown

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Camargo Trice Colorado bouldering etc
12 May 2010, 6:12 am

Lot's of things happened in Brazil while I was away. Here's the important stuff:

- Felipe Camargo is already in Colorado, USA, and did Botslayer V10 (flash) and the FA of the sit-down-start version ("SBS" V11) on his second try. He also did Trice V12 in less than half an hour. While the weather isn't collaborating with Felipe, he is now preparing himself for the american competition Battle in the Bubble.

- Brazilian climbing champion Cesar Grosso did the FA of Salinas at São Bento do Sapucaí. It was repeated by Andre "Bele" Berezoski (O dia santo) and the given V12 (hard).

Here's video showing a little bouldering in Minas Gerais, in HD and with English subtitles.

from Ricardo Cosme on Vimeo.

As always, thanks to Yuri of Escalada café!

Source: TheLowDown

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Koyamada repeats The story of 2 worlds!
13 May 2010, 3:30 am

Dai Koyamada has made the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's The story of 2 worlds on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano. The story links a crimpy 8B/+-ish into Toni Lamprecht's ultra physical wrestling match The Dagger, 8B+, creating a problem that most likely weighs in around 8C+ by today's standards.

Talking about Dai's progress on the problem last night, Dave said he really wished for Dai to succeed. As it turned out, he had already done it.

Stay tuned for more.

Photo: Dai working on linking into The Dagger, from Dai's blog.

Source: TheLowDown

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Dave G in Stockholm
16 May 2010, 6:29 am

Dave Graham has spent the last few days in Stockholm, hosting clinics, showing photos, setting a route, talking a lot, chillin', and also bouldering a bit.

Yesterday, he made the 3rd ascent Houdini assis left, 8B, on Långholmen, a small island in the middle of the city. He's well psyched to return and try Stefan Pettersson's unrepeated "old school 8B" O.G version, though he's not at all sure he can do it (it's morpho). Other than that, the weather wasn't on our side and most things were wet. Oh well, he'll be back in July/August.

Photos: Dave Graham making the 3rd ascent of Houdini assis left, at Långholmen, Stockholm





Source: TheLowDown

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News from Swizzy
16 May 2010, 8:59 am

A while back, Martin Keller made the FA of the first part of his "fish project" in Ticino, Einohrfish, 8B/+. Now he's just waiting for the weather to improve so he can stat attacking the full ~15 move line, which will weigh in around... hard, that's for sure! Full story on his blog.

Photo by Angela Wagner

Sebastian Spauwen, who only had only limited time in Swizzy, escaped to Valais instead and made quick work of Radja, at Branson.

Photo from his blog.

Source: TheLowDown

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Chabot & Bié on tour
17 May 2010, 12:55 pm

Perhaps some of you remember the photos I posted a year or so back, showing crazy rock features in Armenia. Well guess what, Alex Chabot and photographer Sam Bié have visited the place.

After equipping loads of routes in Lebanon, putting up some new ones in the process, they moved on to Armenia, where they've put up a 150 MP and some sport routes.

In total, they have placed some 200 bolts.

Full story on Alex' blog

Sources: Kairn/Beal/Alex' blog

Photo: Alex Chabot climbing the 42m Pixellisation, by Sam Bié

Source: TheLowDown

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Sharma's new project: Home improvements
17 May 2010, 4:11 pm

I had a brief chat with Chris Sharma today, basically just to check what's up. Chris says it seems like the season is kinda finished in the Laborati sector at Margalef "So FRFM will have to wait till the fall.  At this point I feel I've had plenty of time and am more than happy for others to get on the thing.  I'm still psyched to do it, so we'll see if somehow we get lucky with the temps. If not, tranquilo. Next fall a muerte."

So what's the plan for the summer?

I'll be at home doing some home improvements. We're building a climbing wall and I'll be going to the Arco rockmaster. We'll see, maybe Ceüse or Verdon or use the summer heat to bolt some new lines and have them ready when the weather gets good again. I'll also do my kids climbing camp in California in August with Yo Basecamp.

The kids are psyched and it's really good for me too, to do something to give back and contribute.  Also it's cool to get a chance to spend time with my good friend Andy Puhvel, the founder of the camp, one of my best friends and the guy who gave me my first climbing class when I was 12.

Let's hope the fall and winter will be better than the last.

Source: TheLowDown

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The sends
18 May 2010, 7:12 am

Here are some unreported (by me) ascents from the last weeks:

- Natalija Gros has repeated Les Beaux quartiers, 8A, at Rocher de Bouligny, Fontainebleau.

- Bernhard Schwaiger has made yet another 8B+ FA in the Saalachtal. Invasions is a short, powerful and dynamic problem in steep terrain.

- Dai Koyamada keeps delivering. Nothing that spectacular, but his ticklist is getting more impressive by the day, even though the weather hasn't exactly been on his side. Lately he has done Soilwork, 8A+/B, Baby mammoth, 8A+/B, and, I think, Conquistador, 8A+. Japanese is such a fascinating language.

I get the feeling it's very poetic, but unfortunately it makes the automatic translations very difficult to understand... About The story of 2 worlds, Dai says that it's not 8C for him, but rather 8C/+ or 8C+. If we'd call this 8C, most 8B+'s and 8C's would have to be downgraded. This is exactly the conclusion Dave Graham came to, but he felt, and still feels, that's exactly what should be done.

from Pierre Délas on Vimeo.

- Stéfanie Crouvizier has repeated Ultimate doom, 8b+, at Castillon near Nice and also The second end, 8b, at La Turbie (the route Enzo flashes in the video).

Photo1: Natalija Gros on Les Beaux quartiers, by Philippe Ribiére.

Photo2: Dai Koyamada on The story of 2 worlds. Koyamada coll.

Sources: Philippe Ribiére/Schwaigerbrothers/Dai Koyamada/Nice climb/Kairn

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

The Stickler
18 May 2010, 9:43 am

First in a series I could call "Things you didn't know you needed but you do" comes The Stickler, a must for every serious boulderer. For more information, visit their website, and while you're there, why not check out the topos?



Source: TheLowDown

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Birkett climbs The walk of life, E9 7a
18 May 2010, 6:32 pm

I don't know if Dave Birkett talks the talk, but he most certainly walks the walk. UK Climbing reports Dave has made the 3rd ascent of James Pearson's ~50m slab test-piece The walk of life, E9 7a, at Dyer's Lookout in Devon. James made the FA in the fall of 2008 and Dave MacLeod the 2nd ascent the year after.

Source: UK Climbing

Source: TheLowDown

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Grit stoned by Wolff & Bollinger
18 May 2010, 6:37 pm



from Florent Wolff on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

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Greifensee WC by Udini
19 May 2010, 7:48 am

Udo Neuman has made an interesting video report from the bouldering WC at Greifensee.



Source: TheLowDown

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Chris Sharma climbs Era Bella, 9a
19 May 2010, 5:01 pm

I know I said yesterday, the season was more or less over at Margalef, and a 9a FA at this point would sort of make this statement a lie... Fortunately for me, this ascent was made last week.

Era Bella is a big spectacular rig and, according to Chris, it could be the best route at Margalef.

Daila Ojeda jokingly says he did the route as a warm up, but the truth is he "wasn't warming up for anything, it's just that there are no easy routes around so, I just went for it Dani Andrada style haha".

Photo: Chris Sharma on Era Bella at Margalef, by Boone Speed

Source: TheLowDown

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A tribute to Patrick Berhault 1957-2004
20 May 2010, 6:40 pm

From Verticalmente



Source: TheLowDown

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The walk of life, full story
20 May 2010, 6:52 pm

There's really no reason for me to do anything else than to direct you all to UK Climbing. They have the full story with plenty of photos and an interview.

What are you waiting for? Get out of here!

Source: TheLowDown

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From shallow waters to Riverbed by Gabri
20 May 2010, 8:04 pm

From Gabriele Moroni's blog:

Yesterday I climbed this boulder problem called From Shallow Waters to Riverbed 8B+ in Magic Wood! This bloc was opened by Franz Widmer a few year ago and it's basically the sit down start extension at 7C+ bloc into the famous 8B The Riverbed! It's about 30 moves long so it might be considered a route or a traverse or whatever... anyway it remains a nice and hard climb!...

The always syked Gabri is now off to the Frankenjura, where there's plenty of hard stuff to try. Go get it!

Source: TheLowDown

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Battle in the bubble, the video
21 May 2010, 5:36 am



from Zack Sticcs on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

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Nalle climbs Finland's hardest. From Core
21 May 2010, 2:16 pm

Unfortunately, my computer has made a habit out of crashing every other hour or so. Because of this, I couldn't download Core, making a review somewhat complicated to make... Anyway, here's an excerpt from the movie. Nalle Hukkataival doing some of Finland's hardest.

from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

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Jan Hojer climbs Action directe (updated)
22 May 2010, 6:31 pm

Today, I suspect Jan Hojer realized a dream. The 18-year-old from Cologne managed to grab an ascent (I admit it, I've lost count... could it be the 13th?) of Wolfgang Güllich's Waldkopf shallow pocket test-piece Action directe, 9a, in the Frankenjura.

I asked Jan to tell TheLowDown about his ascent and the process leading up to it:

"The first time I tried the route was in 2009 (autumn) because I was motivated in trying some harder stuff.... in my first session I managed to do all the moves and I was so psyched that I spent another day and the following two weekends in AD.

After my third session I could climb it with just one rest. Because I believed in being able to send it soon I came back last week and worked on it for another three days but the conditions were not good enough. Today I arrieved after 6 hours of driving and just made one try without any expectations and fell at the last move... after a worse second try I sent it...

For me a dream became true! I always wanted to climb AD since I've seen this beautiful line in 2005 when I did Slimline..."

Thanks a lot Jan and good luck with your next project!

Source: TheLowDown

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Hemetzberger climbs Il Piccolo orso etc.
24 May 2010, 7:20 am

Roland Hemetzberger has made the 3rd ascent of Stefan Fürst's 40m super technical Il Piccolo orso, 8c/+, at Sparchen, Austria. Stefan made the FA back in 1992, giving it 8b+, but the route repelled all contenders for many years and it was speculated it could in fact be closer to 9a. The long awaited 2nd ascent, by Adam Ondra, came in 2008. Adam figured 8c/+ was more accurate. Now Roland Hemetzberger, a 19-year-old local from just across the German border (Sparchen lies very close to the German/Austrian border) has made the 3rd ascent.

Meanwhile, another German speaking youngster, Jakob Schubert, also 19, had an amazing day in the Ötztal, flashing Schwarzer Schwan, 8c, and redpointing the short Brandy Tarte, 8c/+.

Source: 8a

It should be noted that some of Stefan Fürst's routes have yet to see 2nd ascents even though many years have passed since the FA, and that it seems the grades given are sometimes somewhat... stiff. A few examples:

- Watzmann ruft, Geisterschmiedwand: originally 8b, is now considered 8c (repeats by Ondra, Hemetzberger and Bendler).

- X-large, Massone:  given 8c, unrepeated, as far as I know, and possibly harder

- Qui, Geisterschmiedwand, given 8c+ (1996), unrepeated as far as I know, and possibly harder.

Source: TheLowDown