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TheLowDown
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Chuck Fryberger interview
8 April 2010, 9:17 am
Dave McAllister has made a quite extensive interview with Chuck Fryberger, then man behind Pure and the recently released Core. Like I said, it's quite long, but also very much worth reading. I liked it.
You can find it here.
Source: TheLowDown
comPiler:
Daila Ojeda interview
9 April 2010, 7:38 am
Pierre Delás from Kairn also interviewed Daila Ojeda while in Spain, shortly after her ascent of Fish eye, 8c.
Enjoy!
Back to Santa Linya. After Chris Sharma, I exchanged a few words with his girlfriend Daila Ojeda. At the foot of one of her new projects, "Digital System" she answers my questions in an improvised interview. In late February she made one of the best female performance of 2010 by climbing "Fish eye", her first 8c, at Oliana. Thank you once again Laurent Triay for offering us some exclusive photos, taken during the successful attempt.
Congratulations for climbing "Fish eye" at Oliana. For how long have you worked the route?
First of all thank you! I worked it for a total of 2 months, especially this month of February when I had to really really get involved and to push myself hard. Before, the conditions were not good, windy and humid days. At Christmas, I didn't have that much time to try. At the end I got lucky and was able to succeed.
"Fish Eye" is a very long route(50 m), can you describe the style?
Yes, one pitch of 50 m, which goes to the top of the wall, very physical and very technical. The first part is more physical, and the final part a technical slab. In the latter part, you have to keep your calm and your balance. I fell twice on the last move. But if you go slowly and you believe... finally I did it.
What will you do next? "Digital System" (Ed.: 8c, Santa Linya)?
Yes I tried but it was wet all winter because it rained a lot. But today I came to this route because it is great and really motivates me. But I don't know if I want to do something challenging again, I want to climb for fun and recharge my batteries quickly by doing something new.
Your favorite style of climbing?
My taste is quite broad, but if anything, I prefer when it's slightly overhanging, with crimpers.
Your favorite area in Catalonia
Definitely Oliana. For the landscape, there are a lot of gas in the channels is very long, with a particular contact with nature... I also like Santa Linya because it is a very "fanatical" and we all tend to end up here, but I prefer Oliana. All routes that I have done at Oliana are 5 stars, from 8a to the 8c I did recently. Definitely Oliana.
Do you climb outside all the time, or do you sometimes go to the gym to be able to progress on rock?
Recently only on rock. Sometimes when I have a comp in Spain I go inside, but never for projects. Plastic doesn't motivate me much. Rock above all.
What are your plans for this year?
Well, I would like to travel a little bit. We'll go to the US in April, then I don't know, back to Spain. A major project is to complete the house where we live and climbing with friends, go to Rodellar ... I have no specific project.
A word about France
It seems to me that some of the best places to climb in the world are in France, especially Céüse, which is a favorite of mine, I like it a lot. One of the best sites in the world. There is also a new generation of French climbers who climb hard. And it's always a motivation for a girl.
Source: TheLowDown
comPiler:
Goldrake, 9a+, the video
9 April 2010, 2:57 pm
From Alberto Malinverni, here's Adam Ondra working what became Goldrake, at Cornalba.
from Alberto Malinverni on Vimeo.
Source: TheLowDown
comPiler:
Fred Moix extends mega classic
10 April 2010, 5:28 am
Photographer Fred Moix recently succeeded to add the obvious logical start to Fred Nicole's mega-classic Joyeux Léon at La Balmaz, Switzerland. Joyeux Léon was established back in '92, and was considered as the world's hardest traverse at the time. This traverse is now considered as a well-established 8B boulder/8B+ traverse and Pompon Léon, the new line, adds 11 moves, thus making the crux sequence much more spicy according to Fred (Moix) who propose it as an 8C in the old-school traverse grading or 8B+ as a boulder.
Source: Bouldering.info
Source: TheLowDown
comPiler:
P-Rob in Minnesota
12 April 2010, 7:28 am
Here's Paul Robinson making the 2nd ascent of Nic Oklobja's The Raven on Minnesotan sandstone. At 8A+, it wasn't a huge challenge for Paul, but apparently it's a high quality problem, as he calls it a "classic" already. Paul also makes an absolutely stunning flash of the amazing Team America, 7C+. Again, not that cutting edge in terms of grades, but the setting and the quality... Unbelievable!
from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.
Source: TheLowDown
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