[Hoseyb]

Nice to see appropriate use of the Hosey B brand

[comPiler]

West Coast Gimps
20 December 2012, 10:01 pm

After finishing uni in 2004 i embarked on a epic climbing trip to the US with some fellow loons.  The following 3 months were unforgettable, of course there was lots of quality climbing and amazing ascents but there were also lots of epics along the way.  I managed to capture a fair few ascents (and epics) on my little camera. On my return i was living with Some Climbers hard gritter Dan Honneyman and he let me use his PC to put together the film.  I got some covers printed out and managed to flog a few on UKB.  It went down pretty well and they kept trickling out to across Britain and beyond for a few years to come.  It was especially nice sending them abroad.  These days i don't watch it much but whenever i do it makes me smile.  It was the kind of trip that won't happen again.  Everyone's too old, with girlfriends, jobs etc.. Anyway it crossed my mind that i should get it online to keep it alive.  I considered a torrent but i preferred to have it more easily accessible so i upgraded my Vimeo account so i could upload it. It's pretty long, is very immature but hopefully people will still enjoy it 7 years later.  It the greatest achievement of my amateur film career! Enjoy:

from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

Some other bits.  A relic of North Wales bouldering that is actually dead.  I don't think Mr P's intro in the old Northern Soul coastal crags pamphlet can be beat:

A strange place to climb you might think; so close to a busy road, so devoid of traditional ambience; so fucking hardcore. The initial assault on your senses might send you scampering back to the mountains and pretty views. that is, if you fail to notice just how perfect this crag is.  Believe me once you've gotten stuck into one of the many superb redpoint links you'll be so absorbed that you won't even notice the passing of the world beyond the confines of this magic little garden.

:

Another from the archive, Irish Si doing Gaia:

And a nice 7a down Pigeons beach:



Source: Doylo's blog

[Nibile]

Aehm, I wadded you for "WWG". Is it the title of your next film?

[moose]

I still rate WWG as my favourite climbing film - up there with Hard Grit.  A great combination of low comedy, high drama and keen aesthetics.  The combination of music and imagery in the Buttermilks "Jedi Mind Tricks" sequence still sticks in my mind, as does the dark terror-drive across the Utah salt flat.  One of the only climbing films with a feeling of overall coherence, and as a result, one of the only climbing films  that makes you empathize with the protagonists - from a travesty of justice in Yosemite, to vehicular mishaps, and ill-timed flappers.... Think I'll have to dig out my copy......

[Doylo]

Cheers Moose, I remember you were probably the most complimentary 7 years ago! Glad you still rate it...

[comPiler]

Mid Winter Blues
28 December 2012, 9:19 pm

The mid winter blues have really kicked in - this really is the worst time to live in North Wales!  Summer was extremely wet but this time of year is even worse, it's so grey and dreary.  I miss climbing routes and the buzz of the sport scene.  Everyone is hibernating and the hustle and bustle of the Orme scene is a distant memory.  I've been fantasizing about warm afternoons down LPT just as the crag is coming into the shade. Ahhh.... I miss the endorphins and to add insult to injury i'm very heavy and so pulling down is now too hard.  In truth i've lost my zest but need to think for the future and get training.  It's good to have some down time in the year and i certainly don't need to be a beast in December.  I went down Pigeon's last week.  The pebbles are quite low and we climbed some great roof problems on the ladder wall.  These deserve recording IMO, the two we did were like the left wall of Angel Bay but better.  Mule repeated Fourteen Years Later and Limehouse, 7c:

I've uploaded a few more of my old films to Vimeo.

This one's from Hueco in 2007:

from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

It's ever so slightly racy but no where near as bad as my first effort from 2003, Stonedlove.  If anyone thinks they can handle this i will give them the password but i warn you it's not for the easily offended and is very immature indeed.  We were young though :).

Source: Doylo's blog

[willackers]

  could I get the password?

[petejh]

Should start dry-tooling, I've been out almost daily new-routing nah nah nah 

[Doylo]

Maybe I should try, sounds like a pot belly doesn't stop you dry tooling 

[petejh]

It's never stopped you bouldering? 

[comPiler]

Ten of The Best
2 January 2013, 2:45 pm

Bouldering on the Great Orme has been made famous by the often maligned Parisellas Cave.  The Cave is an important and popular venue (people don't travel hours to get here for nothing) but there are plenty of gems on the Orme that i think are often overlooked.  Most of these have better rock and are more aesthetically pleasing than Parisellas.  I went out to the high sunny walls crag yesterday to try this - A superb old school wall on brilliant limestone that has never seen any attention.  I thought it would be good to do a ten of the best list of none Cave problems to hopefully inspire people to broaden their horizons!

Tramps Tea Party, 7c+, Elephants Cave

I've blogged about this quite a bit recently so won't say too much.  A good, funky addition. Had two repeats already and a downgrade!

Swing of Fire, 7b, Breck Road

A superb and radical limestone boulder problem.  A massive roof is crossed using an undercut at the back before the frustrating and brilliant 'swing' move. Seems unlikely for the grade:

Bellpig, 7c, Split Infinity

Unlikely and very satisfying when you hit every slap.  There's more to limestone than just pulling down!

At 1:19:

Snout,7c,Norman's Wisdom

A powerful line through a steep roof that still hasn't seen many repeats.  When Danny C was still a rock climber.



Ain't No Party Like a Pill Box Party,7a+,Pill Box Wall

Jump start then lovely limestone holds direct up the steep wall.  Climb up to easy ground and jumpy onto the box for the full tick. Good fun from the links too.

At 1:28:

Where's My Hippo?,7a,Pill Box Area

A really satisfying 7a that was rediscovered by rediscoverer Ben Farley.  Some lovely holds.

vid:

Fourteen Years Later, 7c?, Pigeons Beach

A true board style problem with some great powerful climbing and a top out to boot.  Worth the effort! Conditions dependent and tidal.



3:12:

Flashpoint,7b+, Sea View Walls

Probably the best new problem i've done. High overhanging wall with jug, tufa and committing finish.  Would have a permanent queue if was roadside and perma dry.  Major flaw - needs a dry spell. Perhaps the best problem on the Orme?

1:31:



The Spray,8a,West Shore

Really THE grade 8 bloc of the Orme.  Impressive short, pure line on a freestanding boulder.  Extremely tensiony and burly first move.  FA by the Mule when he was going really well and potentially 8a+. Proper bouldering, 3 moves. Really deserves the attention of some beasts:



Silence of The Trams,7b, High West Shore

Located on the sunny walls above the road on the back of the Orme this was recently put up by Ben Farley.  Different from the other problems on the list as it is slightly on the other side of vertical and old school in style.  Essentially one move off a piss poor (but sublime) sloper.  Perhaps 7a+ (?) but would undoubtedly feel harder in summer.

Vid:

Nicest hold?



Thanks to NWB for some of the pics.

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Training Life
27 January 2013, 4:39 pm

I haven't blogged much of late - i haven't been climbing outside much and there has been nothing newsworthy to report.  I'm pretty pleased with myself however as i've finally managed to get in the training groove.  I always doubted whether i could curtail my rock obsession in the short term to get some bigger gains in the long term.  The weather was terrible in December so there wasn't much of a decision to be made.  My form hit a big low - a combination of not doing much and hitting the dreaded 12 stone mark- over half a stone up on Summer.  Some people panic when they get over there fighting weight and immediately act to do something about it.  At this time of year i couldn't care less and the sensible strategy for me seemed to be train heavy then slim down in route season.  I wasn't climbing on rock much anyway so didn't need to be on top form and if i could get strong at this weight the eventual weight loss would surely have a greater impact.  After a few demoralising board sessions my form started to improve.  Ben Pritch had been raving about a weighted deadhang regime he had done in summer so i thought i might aswell give it a go.  It only takes 30 minutes twice a week and is fairly painless.  I did get stronger after a few weeks and was back up to doing some of the usual's on the board despite my obscene waistline.  I'm working away now but Kendal Wall is only 45 minutes away.  The training room has a 30 degree board full of wood and resin nubbins for feet. At first i was a bit dismissive of it but after climbing on it i reckon it's perfect training for British lime.  So my immediate future looks to be an indoor one while i sit the winter out and hopefully get some spondoolees in.  As long as injuries keep away i should be in form come the Spring.  I have been outside a few times ticking a 7b+ and 7c link on the Box that i'd never done.  Today we glued the Rockatrocity foothold back on so if the resin does it's job it should be there for many moons to come.  

So i doubt they'll be much acitivity on the blog until warmer times when we can go all down to this amazing place:



Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Pilgrimage 2nd Ascent
5 March 2013, 9:01 pm

Alex Barrows has made quick work of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisellas.  Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing.  In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA.  The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles.  In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a.  Over the years it has repelled would be repeaters such as Danny Cattell, Mark Katz, Gaz Parry and even Pete Robins who has done most of the links in there.  Although all the moves are achievable for many the main undercut crux section is hideous after climbing the first half.  Barrows has put the time into the Cave recently and has found kneebars on most of the links he has done.  The rubber pads have resulted in the most minor of knee scums being utilised to bypass otherwise pretty burly moves.  His sequence on Pilgrimage is quite something.  He knees down on the arch to get into RA.  At the start of RA he shakes out with a kneebar.  The first serious move on Pilgrimage is getting your left hand into the penultimate pocket on Rocka.  Here Barrows walks his feet round, gets a knee in and shuffles his left hand into the pocket.  Then he rolls over to the Trigger Cut starting hold a la Malc and at the undercuts crux he walks his right knee into a knee bar and here he can get a almost no hands rest before the finish up Beaver Cleaver .  Barrows reckons his sequence is worth 8c+.  I think most people who have a affinity to the harder problems in the Cave will feel slightly saddened about these classic hard links being made easier.  They've always been such meaty, inspiring challenges.  It's not quite the same seeing them climbed with shakeouts at various points.  Having said that they are still meaty bits of climbing and i for one still don't think the majority will take their kneepads to the Cave.  The kneebars on Trigger Cut have been known about for years and still most try it without.  Barrows kneebars in particular are so leg length specific and tricky that they will never be popular.  All of this creates a nightmare for guidebook editors (poor Mr P).  Anyway Spring has nearly sprung, its almost time to get the rope out!

Source: Doylo's blog

[Luke Owens]

Cracking effort from Barrows!

The "problem" is so long it's not even a boulder problem, it's technically a route and I for one would never climb a route in an eliminate style. I don't see the problem with the knee-bars, good on him for finding them!

Bring on the sport season!

[Ally Smith]

Anyway Spring has nearly sprung, its almost time to get the rope out!

Shhh, that kind of talk can only result in the heavens opening and bring about 6 months of rain.

.....oh, 

[tim palmer]

The "problem" is so long it's not even a boulder problem, it's technically a route and I for one would never climb a route in an eliminate style.

I agree, powerband is a piece of crap!

[comPiler]

Denbigh Quarry
16 March 2013, 1:27 pm

Over the last year or so Ryan Mcconnell, Luke Owens and friends have been developing a sweet little crag near the castle in Denbigh.  Like the Dyserth crags this has been climbed on before on trad and top rope but the boys have been putting up some very nice bolted routes.  The rock is interesting and featured and quite slopey in places.  Last week Luke topped developments with a great looking new 7b:

from Luke Owens on Vimeo.

The crag will feature in the forthcoming North Wales Lime guide but for a few more details check out Lukes blog.

As sport season (hopefully) approaches here's one from last year. Some phone camera footage of Pete Robins repeating Corinthian Groove (8b) on the Orme:

Below average temperatures are forecast until mid April so unless you catch Malham or Dinbren on a sunny day there's not much fun to be had on a rope for the wimps.

Source: Doylo's blog

[Luke Owens]

Cheers Chris!

[comPiler]

Curse or a Blessing?
5 April 2013, 1:07 pm

Sometimes i question the merits of having an all consuming obsession like climbing in your life.  For myself and many people i know it is apparent that once climbing became something far beyond what you would simply class as a 'hobby' then inevitably it would be to the detriment of other aspects of life.  I'm 30, have little in the way of financial security;I don't own my own house, have no pension or significant savings.  Of course getting the balance right is key to having a fulfilling life.  To achieve your sporting dreams and aspirations whilst furthering your life by more standard parameters is a tricky ask for the majority. Dream climbing ticks for the average human won't sustain you in later life or provide you with a good standard of living.  So obviously the key is balance and plenty of people manage to get the balance right.  I think humans who have been 'lucky' enough to find something that they find truly exhilarating are in a way cursed.  The mind will be dependent on a repeated buzz to truly feel alive.  The mind drudging monotony of a normal boring routine will be a proverbial vampire for the soul.  So many people i meet just want to 'get ahead'.  Work, work, work, achieve financial security, retire, die.  The latter option befalls so many and it is this i want to avoid. Anyway onto some climbing!

North Wales has many superb boulder problems spread amongst its diverse array of crags.  There are significantly less that i would class as exceptional i.e. they would hold their own at some of the global top areas.  Recently the exceptional list has been bolstered.  Pete Robins has put up several pearlers in Ogwen including a recent new 8b extension to Danny Le Rue.  There are IMO half a dozen or so problems that deserve this classification but one of the best i've seen is Nodder's new problem Roof of Baby Buddha 7c+ just outside Betws-y-Coed.  There are a fair few famous problems that i've seen in Swizzy that aren't as good as this.  The problem takes a big roof with a perfect start on big jug.  Tensiony slaps up perfect edges lead to a satisfying top out.  The rock is great, the line is as pure as they come and the climbing is equally fantastic.  I hope i can get it done before it gets wet or it warms up and i get tempted by routes.  The boulder is up a private road and it is pretty tempting to drive up and park near it.  It has become apparent that if people do this access issues are inevitable and so park at the bottom people.  It's only a ten minute walk anyway and just not worth jeapordising such a classic .

Photo of me on it by Craig 'Ducko' Davies:



And the man himself crushing it:



Source: Doylo's blog

[ducko]

Good write up, I now want to quit and live in a van

[Tommy]

Nice writing in that first paragraph. The dilemma well put. 

[Moo]

Just read this again and realised that I've never seen such a ridiculously dichotomous outlook on life. Either spend all your time working, or all your time climbing? surely there is a middle ground chris.

[masonwoods101]

1 or 0

[ducko]

think you're missing the point, to achieve certain climbing goals i.e 8b+/8c boulder or say 8c+/9a route working your average 9-5 job will never allow you to become this good without masses of natural ability.
obviously work and climbing middle ground is available for most BUT you'll never be as good as the man who can climb 24/7

[andy popp]

obviously work and climbing middle ground is available for most BUT you'll never be as good as the man who can climb 24/7

BUT that won't make the (either) experience intrinsically less satisfying, complete or challenging. I've been thinking about this lately as I've been prioritizing career and have experienced some gratifying but unexpected rewards. Have, I've been thinking, neglected climbing? No, I've been following what motivates me right now. And I realized I can look back on a pretty decent climbing record and have still, to my surprise, developed a successful career. I'm not a God in either field, but then again I was never going to be. Each, through contrast, lends more depth and satisfaction to the other.