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Sea of Tranquility 2nd Ascent
15 October 2010, 7:50 pm

Pete Robins has done the probable 2nd ascent of Sea Of Tranquility on LPT.  In the 97 Rockfax it credits Neil Carson with the 2nd ascent but rumour has it that this is a mistake.  Over the years i have spoken to several people who were around at the time and they all thought that Carson didn't do it.  If anyone knows for sure get in touch.  Sea of was graded 8c by Ben Moon in 1993 who thought it to be similar to Liquid Ambar in the harder range of the grade.  However with the evolution of grades throughout the world and with a distinct lack of repeats for both routes both could now be considered 8c+.  Three of the four people who have done LA say 8c (Ben M, Jerry and Simpson, not sure what Pete thinks now) but they are all old skool in their grading.  For me the fact the people who have failed to repeat both routes tells a story.  I've belayed Mcclure and Simpson on Sea Of and neither managed to get it sorted in a few days of effort.  This year Malc managed Liquid in two halfs but didn't get it done and Nic Sellars didn't do it in the height of his sport climbing powers (he said it was nails).  Its a shame they don't get more attention as they're both brilliant routes.  Pete has very few routes left to do on LPT now with the obvious one being Big Bang which will surely be the most prestigious 2nd ascent in North Wales when completed.  He also becomes the first man to tick the three 8c/+s Liquid, Sea of and Infanticide which is quite an achievement.  LPT almost ticked! - not bad for a few years worth of effort!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Dinbren
18 October 2010, 10:48 pm



When i lived in Holywell i spent a lot of time climbing in the Eglwyseg valley near Langollen.  People have climbed here for years with a lot of the routes protected by fixed gear.  In the early noughties the old fixed protection started to get replaced with stainless bolts and new sport routes started to go up. A new guide book came out and the areas popularity was assured.  I stopped coming here a few years ago as i had done most of the better 7's at the time and normally found myself at the Ormes.  The Valley has a lot going for it however.  Its obviously not tidal and apart from a hot summers day conditions are nearly always good.  There are lots of 7's to go at and quite a few 8's up to 8b.  It feels like quite a stress free scene compared to the Ormes! There are even some projects.  Rob Mirfin has been putting up hard new routes here for a few years.  I have been a few times recently and am quite keen to get back into it.  On Sunday i went with Mule and we did a 7b+ called Cubase which was cool.  I also fell a foot move away from flashing a 7c called Dyperspace.  My hand uncurled as i tried to move my foot up, was quite gutting as i've never flashed 7c in Britain. The lack of climbing has taken its toll though and i feel in poor shape. 5 weeks ago i was doing 8a/+ worth of climbing 3 times a session on the Diamond and now my arms feel tired after warming up.  Haven't had much urge to go climbing although when i've been i have enjoyed it.  

Lee Proctor, Mr Dinbren:

Mule flashing Cubase:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Freezing Day at Pigeons
21 October 2010, 10:11 pm

Went down Pigeons today, it was very cold and windy! Stiff Upper Lip has seen some attention since it has been rebolted (Pete Robins has redpointed it).  This must be one of the steepest 8a's in the country. It makes the 'roof warrior' in Cheedale seem not very roofy! About 5 bolts worth of it are completely horizontal! Jim's clips were in so i had a quick bolt to bolt.  It was brilliant, some good holds and a burly section on undercuts and then a frustrating last move slap! Keen to do it sometime when i'm climbing stronger again.

Some footage of one of Jim's redpoints:



Source: Doylo's blog

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New Diamond 8a
24 October 2010, 12:02 pm



Jon Ratcliffe has climbed his project line on the Diamond.  This is a very cool little number following a diagonal break left to right on the right hand side of the crag.  The route joins Hysteria at the top.  It is a power endurance affair and quite a unique line for North Wales.  Jon equipped and started trying the line last year.  Over the winter a big jug was smashed off by the sea by the grade remained the same as this left a jug underneath.  Its called The Waiting Game, very appropriate, nice one fella!



Source: Doylo's blog

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Confirmation from Carson
6 November 2010, 11:06 pm

I thought i'd ask Neil Carson if he did repeat Sea of Tranquility or not as i have always wondered. It seems that the Rockfax got it wrong - "I never repeated Sea of Tranquility - dabbled with it but was more interested with the other unclimbed lines at the time." So there you have it another myth dispelled and the 2nd ascent goes to Pete.

Not been climbing much recently, have been working more and playing lots of snooker. Have got a few things on the go though. Could do with getting some strength back. Feeling strong is nice! Some footage of my best efforts on the Diamond:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Batman 7c+
27 November 2010, 4:14 pm



Muledog Samuel Howard Clifford Cattell has done the line right of Caveman 7b on Cavewall on the top of the Little Orme.  Mule did the first ascent of Caveman maybe ten years ago.  Today he fought the arctic conditions on his first session back on the project for a while. Batman took him 3/4 sessions altogether and the grade is hard 7c+ but don't be surprised if it turns out to be 8a as he's strong at the moment.

This crag has a few toughies now:

Batman 7c+ (8a)

Caveman Low Start 7c+

The Weakest Link 7c

Caveman/Breezeblock 7b+

Rocket in a Pocket 7b

Caveman 7b

Right hand problem 7a+

Patch's Problem 7a

Breezeblock 7a

Ben Bransby also managed a 2nd session repeat of Bonnie 8a+ in the Cave.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Far From the Orme
29 November 2010, 10:40 am

Lots of hommes have been having it large out in swizzy recently with some good results.  I've been getting psyched hearing the news of hard ascents.  This is defo one of the top global destinations now especially for the harder grades where many world class problems exist.  It is a bit of a gamble in winter with the risk of trip ending snow omnipresent but if you get it right it is a beautiful place to climb.  Dave Mason and Micky Page have returned to complete two climbs that they put some effort into a few years ago.  Dave crushed Vecchio Leone 8b at Brione the other day.  This is undoubtedly one of the most perfect hard problems in the world.  Three suprisingly ample (but awkward) perfect finger edges up a overhaning wall lead to a quartz pinch which must be squeezed like billio to gain better holds.  I had a play on this when i was out there two years ago and remember thinking i could maybe get to the pinch with some work but colossal pinch strength is needed to execute the crux.  There can't be a more perfect 8b anywhere (maybe Spectre??).  Nice one Dave, a great tick.  Similary Micky had tried From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Dave Graham 8c) a few years ago but was thrawted by bad weather if i remember correctly.  He has gone back out there this season and finished the job for its 3rd (?) ascent and joining a small number have Brits to have climbed font 8c. Can only think of Jonny and Ty off the top of my head.  Dobbin has done a couple of 8as out there too which is good going for a short trip.  So there you go, it looks like Swizzy is catching the Orme up in terms of world significance.              

from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

Source: Doylo's blog

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The Bearman Roams Free
4 December 2010, 11:27 am



Source: Doylo's blog

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Fat Twat Pulls Out Wobbly Block
12 December 2010, 6:42 pm

After years of wobbling under the bodyweight of many boulderers the wobbly block under Rockatrocity has finally fallen out.  This hold gave many a disconcerting moment mid move as it used to shift position constantly.  The hold is essential for In Hell, In Life, Pit of hell, Cave Life, In Heaven, The Highlife etc...  Fat sport climber Bob Hickish was the man who pulled it out. I was shopping in Manchester when i got a worried text from Richie Crouch who had heard the news from Leeds.  Then i heard first hand from Bob.  Today i popped in to pick it up to ensure that no kid throws it over the wall.  All that was left in its place was a shallow hole, it was hard to see how it had stayed in there so long.  I will try and sort it out with Nodder this week.  It should be ok!

Orme artefacts, original bolt from Liquid Ambar, the wobbly block, and Neil Carsons blue tat from Big Bang.



Source: Doylo's blog

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nutters
13 December 2010, 10:53 pm



Source: Doylo's blog

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Your Christmas Sermon
25 December 2010, 5:00 pm

This is the 3rd Christmas sermon on this blog, doesn't time fly! The Sunday Sermon's were fun but they seem like ages ago now. The blogs had a quiet few months. This is because its a climbing blog and i haven't been climbing.  I haven't climbed since mid November actually and no i'm not injured. I've been in a weird place motivation wise probably since September, i had been trying to get in the best shape i could for the Diamond season.  After maybe 5 sessions i was going well on the route, better than last year although still getting to the same move.  I had one session where i was even feeling fairly fresh up there getting there 3 times in a session. Despite this something just wasn't quite right.  I felt like i was just going through the motions in order to get it done.  I found myself in a strange predicament as although all i needed to do was keep going i was struggling to maintain the tunnel vision approach that was needed.  The Diamond is not your standard sport crag. You're lucky to get six weeks a year there and your lucky to get good conditions more than one in three days.  To do this route at this crag i needed to invest all my time and focus.  I had no money, i was the poorest i'd ever been in my life.  Things were just getting back on track with the missus so i needed to put some effort into that.  On my return after a two week break i knew the game was up.  I had lost the edge physically and this resulted in me losing the physchological battle.  I was soon falling off everywhere,it was getting cold too.  I resigned myself to defeat.  It was bouldering season now and i knew i was weak as i'd hardly bouldered since June, it would be a hard old slog getting back into the Cave.  The upshot was the desire wasn't there.  I was occupied for a few weeks developing a new bouldering area which i was really into, its reinvigorated me running round finding new boulders but there were some problems with the place so i eventually left it.  I knew then i probably wouldn't climb again for a while.  You need to be psyched out of your mind to climb when its so cold and i couldn't be bothered.

There has been a definite shift in my motivation in the 2nd part of this year.  Like everyone i get peaks and troughs in motivation but this time it felt like a more permanent shift.  I remember when i was younger i was motivated to climb on any piece of shit.  I was totally obsessed and up for anything, totally mad for it.  These days i can't get excited by sitting down in the mud pulling on and jumping for the top.  I wish i had the same motivation as when i was younger but it is completely organic for me and can't be forced.  One of the reasons that climbing has been such a big part of my life is that it has really made me feel inspired which is a completely infectious feeling.  Of course i enjoy moving on rock like everyone but its the kind of drive that can stop you eating properly for a few months or make you run round the orme even though you really can't be arsed that i really crave.  When the inspiration dried up i just felt a bit lost.  I've been going at it for so long at the detriment of most other things i guess it was always possible that i'd end up running on fumes.  I met Zippy down the Cheedale Cornice this summer, he didn't seem his normal self.  He said something about things not going too well. I said "well at least you've been enjoying yourself for years". He replied something like "i've been enjoying myself too much thats the problem".  And i guess this brought to the front another pressing issue.  The climbing life Vs career/posessions/house/pension etc...  Lots of people manage to do both obviously but we all know that to get the most out of your potential it sure does help not having a proper job.  There is no right or wrong way, it is up to the individual to decide what they want from life.  This is a conflict that most obsessed climbers will have to face at some point.  I felt this was my time.  As much as it would be nice to try and climb Liquid Ambar and travel the world i knew i didn't want to end up living in a allotment shed with nothing to my name.

I don't know when i'll start climbing again. I'm kind of dreading it as i know my base level is about font 6b so it'll be a tough old slog to get any kind of strength back.  I'm looking forward to hanging out at the crag again with familiar faces.  It may sound sad but climbing has felt like its given me a place in  the world.  I may not be finding cures for cancer etc.. but promoting the Orme is surely a worthwhile pursuit and someones got to do it!  Merry Xcrement.

Source: Doylo's blog

[robertostallioni]

I appreciate these "mind openings" of yours, Chris. I understand where you're coming from. I'm sure you'll refind it soon enough.

[mrjonathanr]

I went through something similar with chronic injuries added to the mix. Two decades later I've got more motivation than I know what to do with. And a career. And a family. It'll work itself through. Happy Xmas

[BenF]

I think pretty much everyone can identify with something there Chris. And so honestly and eloquently put. As you've said before, you'll always be a climber 'cos it gives you so much, it feels right to be a climber and you've found your place in the world as a climber (I really understand what you mean by that). Taking time out is never a bad thing if you return in a better state of mind, after all its supposed to be fun from time to time!

Oh and promoting the pleasures of the Orme is a truly worthwhile activity mate. I can think of few better places to climb. Have a good christmas and new year.

[Doylo]

  Cheers for the comments.you can't beat a cathartic blog post

[Nibile]

nice post Doylo.
see you in February at the Cave.

[Andy F]

Doylo, speaking from a position of some authority on the lack of climbing faith front, man the fuck up. It'll come back, even harder. You lose the faith, you gain the faith, second time is stronger. Go for Liquid Ambar, aim high. Who cares if you live in a potting shed, what matters is that you pushed it as far as you could.  Go and push it. Not a number 2, the climbing, fool.

[Doylo]

Who cares if you live in a potting shed, what matters is that you pushed it as far as you could. 

Well i doubt i'll be able to convince the missus to stay over if i'm in a potting shed, and a man needs his oats.
Cheers Andy, i think i'll be taking the non potting shed route though. Pete Robins has almost done every hard route on the Orme and he doesn't live in a potting shed! He is quite good though.
Nibs the CAve will  probably be too hard for me but i'll come and heckle.

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I Tried to Go Climbing
2 January 2011, 4:50 pm

I've thought about going climbing a few times recently. Almost met up with Nodder in the cave once or twice. The place has been a gopfest though and the you can't drive on the marine drive as the gate is shut. They must have shut it when the snow was here but i think its a bit cheeky keeping it shut considering people pay money for a season ticket. The cave will probably be too hard anyway.

Was thinking about what to try and do this year. I guess i'd really like to push my sport grade a little higher.  I did Melanchollie (note correct spelling) in 2004 and haven't managed to do anything harder since.  You can't beat progress! Unfortunately though there are not many 8b+'s to choose from in North Wales. LPT has The Walking Mussel and Wild Youth. The Walking Mussel is the most appealing option. I had a brief go on it in 2009. Its is basically a hard boulder sequence in the middle of the crag. Very nice crux involving a bony pinch and some undercuts. The route then finishes up the crack of Over the Moon. Now for anyone else trying TWM this probably wouldn't be an issue but i got totally shut down on the crack last year.  I saw Smit do it with a different sequence though so should try that. So its a big IF! Got to get strong enough to crack the crux then work out the crack then link it all. I think its fair to say the odds are against me getting to this level but you might as well aim high! Its a good route thats the main thing and its usually pretty easy finding people to climb with at LPT.

Source: Doylo's blog

[ducko]

just had a quick read through your blog, intresting stuff and your from llandudno, i live in penrhynside and have just got into climbing in the past 6 months, theres seems too be a fair few from this area on the site, hopefully meet some of you guys at some of the local spots this year
craig

[Doylo]

Hi Craig,

I'm about one minute from you in Craig-y-Don. Ye there's some welshies on here. Not many dudnoites though. Just me and Petejh i think. Sure i'll bump into you at the crags! If your keen to meet more partners/broaden your horizons this is quite an active club and good for beginners especially: http://www.clwydmc.co.uk/

[ducko]

awsome thanks for the link, pretty close then, do you know much about the routes on the little orme ive seen a section of rock and cant find topo's for it, looks pretty hard too

thanks
 craig

[Doylo]

Where abouts is it? Most of the crags are identified in these topos:
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Little+Orme

If its parallel with the road its manor crag.

[ducko]

its off the road its a bouldering spot, if you go through the top gate onto the lil orme its pretty much straight ahead of you looks pretty much unclimbed althou im sure someone has had a bash
ta

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A World of Opportunity!
7 January 2011, 5:56 pm

After saying in my last post that i wanted to knuckle down and tick something hard i'm not so sure now. I had been thinking about some new routes that i wanted to try and today i've been on a mission with Tony all over the shop looking at untouched white limestone. One of the reasons i like North Wales is that it isn't completely climbed out like most the English sport crags and there are still whole crags with nothing on them. Found this cool Frankenjura style bouldering cave with a handful of problems:

Theres also a meaty crag nearby with some big roofs so keen to check that out too. Then we headed down another valley full of crags and found some good stuff including some very hard looking sport climbs.

All i need now is for some expansion bolt company to sponsor me!

At least i've got plenty of reasons to start again.



Source: Doylo's blog