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Diamond Open for Business
16 August 2010, 4:23 pm

Tommy and Nodder were playing on Temple of Gloom today, nice to go back and see the beast.

The bird ban date for the Diamond has passed so its game on (conditions,weather and tides dependent of course).  Pete Harrison has already been along to check the handline.  Apparently one section of the static rope was down to the last few threads where it had been rubbing over the winter.  Pete has sorted this now and also put two new bolts in the last section as the original bolts were starting to move as a result of the forces being put on them.  The new bolts have been countersunk and face the right way so it should be fine now. Me and Mule went down but forgot mornings were a grease fest. This little fella was left over from the bird season:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Back on the Horse
19 August 2010, 7:16 pm

Went down to the Diamond today with Mule n Pickles.  Signs were good as there was no grease on the approach.  Sure enough when we got there the rock was crisp and bone dry. The black rock which soaks up the grease usually, was a lighter colour. A one in 6 day i would say.  The crag was looking fairly dry, a few birds were left on the ledges but it felt like Diamond season.  I racked up for my proj.  Was gonna employ the same tactics as last year, warming up on the easier sections putting the clips in and doing a few small links.  I didn't know what to expect really.  In my mind i was still falling off the high redpoint crux but i suspected this wouldn't be the current reality.  The moves went ok, only felt a little rusty on them.  I re-aquainted myself with the redpoint crux and soon remembered why i was so far off doing it last year.  Its a long stretch off a sidepull quite high up the route.  When your tired the last thing you want is a long move, locking and covering distance is always hard when your sagging.  Plus on this move you can't slap, you need to go reasonably static.  The next few moves are smaller on positive holds before a very drop-able finish to the jugs.  Last year i was locking off a flatty up to a wide pinchy thing which i guppied before laying one to a jug.  This move wasn't feeling piss this year and it dawned on me what a drop-able last move it was.  I could see myself falling there for days.  Today i worked a new sequence for the end which although was more moves felt a bit more secure to me, despite the last move being off a poor sloper.  Think i'll stick with this for now as it feels a bit more secure.  I was fairly pleased to get to the first crux of the route from the deck climbing through the boulder problem off the ground first go.  Mule and Pickles did Rub a Dub Dub 7a and got on Boat People.  Like most folk (bar Pete) from last year they went to the first lower off.  Pickles fell just shy of the big corner on the onsight then got it on his first redpoint.  Mule had a ok flash go but didn't get up it last go as the sea was lapping the bottom off the access corner and we had to go.  I must say this route looks very meaty for 7c.  I had earmarked it for a potential flash burn but i'm not so sure now.  Can't believe that it only gets 7c if you go to the top of the crag.  This top section looks tricky in its own right and you've already done what is probably a hard 7c to get there (there is a rest though).  It started pissing down and we got soaked getting back to the car. Not good.

Well the route still felt hard, i was happy with how i got on as hadn't been on it since last October.  Despite my best efforts to prepare well it was still feeling pretty meaty, but then it is completely at my limit (and beyond) for a power endurance route.  Such an amazing style though!  Also need to build up my confidence on the route again.  Might sound a bit pathetic as it is sport climbing but this is a meaty wall, the likes of which i don't climb on very often.  I reckon i'm in for the long haul on this route, need to build the fitness and muscle memory up on it and get up to that redpoint crux ASAP.  My biggest concern however is despite being finally able to try the one thing i wanna do i'm not exactly feeling overly psyched.  I want to climb but am not feeling the usual fire in my belly.  Would be nice to get this back as it would help my cause greatly. Now is not the time for a psyche dip.  I feel like i'm going through the motions at the moment, maybe an upturn in form will sort me out.  Fingers crossed!    

Rub a Dub Dub 7a:

Boat People

Pickles dropping the onsight:

Wet Exit:



Source: Doylo's blog

[robertostallioni]

There were 3 "meaty"s in that post Chris.

You and I both know that dreaming about meat is a mugs game.

keep on trucking.

[Doylo]

What can i say, i like meat!

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Pigeons Re-equipping
20 August 2010, 7:39 pm

A few months ago the seed was planted in my mind to have another look at Pigeons Cave with view to regearing it.  For some reason i'd always dismissed this place despite the attractive grade span and unique horizontal nature.  I realised this was a mistake when i first went down to try Stark.  Stiff Upper Lip and Follow the Prof looked great fun and Stark turned out to be a great route.  I had done the 7b Koo before and that was dead good.  So i sent out an email to see what resources the bolt fund had at the moment.  Nearly all the resin bolts had been used to regear LPT.  Pete Harrison sent out a group email and we got some more funds in through donations.  Pete isn't one to mess about so he ordered 35 bolts to re-equip the place.  They soon arrived and today we went and stuck new lower offs in the routes left of Stark.  All that remains now is to rebolt the routes and get on them.  The bolts are amazing 12mm twisty stems, very diddy indeed.  Which makes drilling much less arduous!

Tiny bolts:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Sweaty Diamond
22 August 2010, 9:01 pm



More Diamond action today as a big team descended on the steepness.  Once again it was factor low on the grease front.  I felt a bit more at home on my project today, should have made it through the crux really.  I'm in a bit of a strange situation on it.  I'm keen to go from the ground and see how high i can get but at the same time if i fall on the crux its because its hard and not because i'm pumped.  Today when i fell i continued some linkage to the top but of course this then tires you more for the next go!  Think i'll just keep on like this for a few more sessions.  Once i start getting through the crux i'll just keep redpointing for the ground as this will provide sufficient pump.  Boat People got a few ascents and onlookers were quite shocked as Dyer failed to flash Never Get Out of The Boat, must be hard!  Later the sun came on the crag which was nice in a way but a bit sweaty also.  Last year we didn't make it there til September and the evening sun wasn't quite as warm.  I could resist no longer and had a rather shit flash burn on Boat People, not much left in the tank and i was soon hanging! We cut it a bit fine getting out, had to go down to bare feet to make it to the escape corner. Jeez those barnacles were sharp!

Ray escaping:

Neil on the 8a:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Unscrambling the Physche
25 August 2010, 8:34 pm

I would liken my recent loss of motivation to a computer system suffering a massive crash.  The effect is instant but recovery is not and often takes a bit of time to unravel the damage thats been done.  At its worst i could no longer see the point of rock climbing and felt i was just going through the motions by doing something that i felt like i should rather than wanting to do it.  I've had such feelings before but it just happened to be particularly bad timing this year with the onset of Diamond season.  It is horrible when something that is such a massive part of your life seems momentarily pointless.  And the worst thing is you can't force your way back, the psyche has to return naturally.  Anyway despite all this i've been enjoying the early Diamond sessions, its hard not to get a bit of an urge to climb at this place.  I stuck another step on the road to recovery today by getting a tick.  Haven't had one of those for a while!  Went down Pigeons and after warming up on Koo managed to dispatch Stark finally, felt fine too which made it all the more sweeter.  Had that spring in my stride walking out that you only get from clipping a chain.  Pete and Nodder continued the re-equipping work.  Nodder learnt how to bolt on Koo and Pete started on Stiff Upper Lip and Follow the Prof.  These need completing, we'll probably have to get a big ladder down there to finish them.  The old bolts are so rusty we can't even use them to clip into to keep us in while we bolt, they just disintegrate!

Pete drilling Stiff Upper Lip:

Nodder on Koo, very fun 7b on big holds:

The boys and the tat:

The crag is in a right state with old krabs on every bolts and knackered rope and rusty chains hanging from the belays, some stuff Pete chopped off:



Source: Doylo's blog

[shark]

*Pedant alert* - its not 'Physche' its 'Syke'

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Jeehaaaah!
26 August 2010, 8:11 pm

After the doom and gloom of the last post this one should be a bit more cheery! Had a really good day down the Diamond.  Just me and Mule down there tonight and once again we were spoilt by good conditions.  Not had a bad day down there yet, starting to think we imagined the grease of last year!  I was feeling strangely confident. Strategy wise i was in a bit of a catch 22 situation.  If i fell low down i really needed to pull back on and bust out a link for fitness purposes.  However this would tire me for the next redpoint.  I figured at this stage of the game that it would be more beneficial to save my strength and try and get through the crux section.  If i could, this would do my confidence the world of good and the whole thing would not feel quite so daunting.  1st RP my heel slipped off frustratingly.  Next burn up i crushed the crux and fell on a big move just shy of the pre-redpoint crux shakeout.  I was inches from getting to last years highpoint. I fell there again on my next go, i was feeling fit and this was just the session i needed.  Mule had a good first session on Never Get Out of the Boat getting a good pump on.  Alas that is probably the last time i'll make it down until the next tidal window. Can't wait!

Photo by Matt Pickles:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Thank You Rock Climbing!
5 September 2010, 8:22 am



In a previous post i talked about psyche problems that i've been having recently.  Throughout my climbing life i've felt inspired and driven and if you read this blog you will know that climbing rocks is a big part of my life.  When the inspiration left things weren't good.  I've had some traumatic problems with the missus also which has added to things greatly.  I think usually you climb best when your in a good place and your happy.  Relationship problems felt like the final nail in the coffin for me.  I couldn't really be bothered climbing but i knew that my climbing life had been building up to this Diamond route for years and i would regret it if i didn't give it everything even if i didn't feel like it.  With the tide in and having no motivation for the Mill i headed to the peak with Mule to get on a very dry, re-bolted and chalked Cheedale cornice.  I was well and truly going through the motions.  I felt weak on the stuff i tried and seemed incapable of trying hard.  I couldn't get high enough up anything to get a significant pump so in terms of Diamond training it was a waste of time.  Doom and gloom! The final thing i did was go bolt to bolt on Nemesis which i really enjoyed.  What a route that is!

Ben on Nemesis (he did it the next day)

I headed back to Wales for the next tidal window but i was actually dreading getting down there.  I'd hardly climbed for over a week and after the last session being good i couldn't afford to go backwards.  This would of screwed my head up even more.  I wasn't sure how i'd climb on the route, surely i was in to much emotional turmoil to perform.  I set off and soon found myself at the crux, i really wanted to get through this first go to help my confidence.  I crushed the holds and soon found myself at the flatty just shy of where i fell last time.  This time things were different, i felt stronger here than i ever had before and i knew this could be a good go.  I powered through the big move that had stopped me last time and fell on the high redpoint crux.  Yes! Back to last years highpoint. 7 moves to go.  Last year i only had it in me to get to the RP crux once a session so i was surprised to find myself there again on the next two goes.  The last go was actually the best and i had some strength left-was inches from the hold.  All my worries evaporated momentarily.  Usually i would be so desperate to do well and try and do the route i would create nerves and pressure for myself which would often adversly affect my climbing.  Today i climbed unencumbered with nerves and pressure and it was one of the best i've ever felt on the rock.  I hardly put a foot wrong in 3 redpoints and the endorpins really made me feel better.  I think the climbing lifestyle i've lived for the majority of my 20s may be coming to an end but i know i'll always be a climber.  Such a special sport, thank you rock climbing!

Source: Doylo's blog

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The INCREDIBLE Bulk
6 September 2010, 6:13 pm

Just got a txt off Pete Robins who has finally managed to link Lou Ferrino into The Incredible Bulk (Part 2) in Parisellas.  Pete has been battling with this link ever since he did the first ascent of the stand start last winter.  So its 7c+ into 7c+/8a with no rest.  He didn't mention the grade but it will be at least 8b and one of the best lines in the Cave.  So aswell as being strong, fit and talented Pete also knows how to seige - a dangerous combo! Some footage of Pete attempting the stand version prior to the FA.



Source: Doylo's blog

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Mallorca Mankini
8 September 2010, 10:20 am

from Jack Geldard on Vimeo.

Source: Doylo's blog

[jfw]

 
 

[Doylo]

 

your a lucky girl!

[Johnny Brown]

Hmm, not that lucky. It wasn't that pretty close up. General consensus is a crack wax is required asap.

[Jim]

you're not wrong!!!!

[jfw]

i like it - waxed would be just wrong!

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Bastard Grease
9 September 2010, 7:47 pm

Last two days on the Diamond have been too greasy to progress. Yesterday a temperature inversion was responsible but today was breezy and clear yet the grease still prevailed.  Don't know why it was like that today, can't think of a logical explanation.  I knew i'd cursed myself when i started telling people how reliable the conditions had been this year.  The last good day i felt stronger than ever on it too.  Is weird i'm getting to the same place as last year but i'm significantly stronger and more solid on it.  Good and bad rolled into one.  The redpoint crux feels like it may go soon though.  The good thing with a route like this is that every good go is money in the bank.  And it all builds up to that go when everything's right! I might not get down there again til the next tides now which is frustrating.  At the end of the day i had a flash burn on Hysteria which i reckon is far to burly for 7b.  I fell and it was very greasy but a cool route.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Adversity
14 September 2010, 9:07 am

Adversity is what i'm facing with regard to this Diamond route.  It has dawned on me this week that is probably one of the worst places for climbing at your limit.  Ok so Sharma managed to do Jumbo Love half way up a mountain in the desert but he is Sharma, its his job to do shit like that.  The Diamond is only 20 minutes from civilisation but this is all it has going for it for multi session seiges.  I think its a fabulous crag for going and doing some routes in a session or two.  It is one of the most impressive bits of sport rock in Britain without doubt.  By the time i get back on the route i will basically have had 11 days off.  I have been away a few times and the weather has been shit here.  Now my names not Cattell or Dyer, those boys can warm up on Trigger Cut after 5 months off.  11 days is significant for me! So the place is tidal (obvious disadvantge), you can only climb there 2 months a year, any kind of atmospheric ming and its unclimbable, it can't be raining and you need partners on the good days. Its getting dark at 7.30 now and you can't go before 12 cos of morning grease.  You will never do a route at your limit there if you have a job.  I have been putting off working to try and do it.  This doesn't make you rich and is a bad way to be.  I'll see what happens in the next tidal window but with all these problems and my continued psyche dip its not looking good!

Source: Doylo's blog

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I'm Not Giving Up Yet!
24 September 2010, 7:31 pm

Well since my last post i have had two weeks without even pulling on - which is very rare for me.  I went to the Lakes for a weekend with the missus then a few days later went to Belfast for four days.  During this time i consumed much tasty food and did some cultural stuff, the highlights being William Wordsworths house in Cockermouth and then filling in my knowledge on the Troubles in the Belfast musuem.  Also caught up with Irish Jap si and his lady wife who were over from California.  When i got back i struggled to get a belayer then last wednesday i made it down the Diamond but it was raining and thus was gopping.  Throughout my time off i couldn't help but think of the strength and stamina that was slowly ebbing away and also of the weight that i was inevitably putting on.  I knew logically i couldn't lose much in this time but i'm used to climbing all the time so it felt like a big lay off.  I could tell on my one go up on Wednesday that i hadn't lost much strength.  Today was cold and windy and it looked like we could be getting wet on the handline as the waves battered against the cliff.  I could see the chalk on my route as we approached and sure enough it was dry as a bone.  When you know the crag you can tell by looking at the colour of the black streaks how greasy it is.  First redpoint i felt good but my heel popped off.  Quick rest then managed to get to my highpoint which was confidence inspiring.  I had definitely lost some fitness and didn't feel as good as i did but it should come back soon enough.  And then it got dark so we left.  I'm hoping to get down once more before the tides change and then i plan to train really hard and push on next time.  I really need to pull my finger out and put some effort in.  I've felt like quitting so many times.  Life would be much easier but then it would also be more boring and i do like a challenge!

Source: Doylo's blog

[petejh]

Cue 'Rocky' training music and montage.

[Jaspersharpe]

Get it fucking crushed you cunt.

[tomtom]

Get it fucking crushed you cunt.

 

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Fast Twitch/Slow Twitch
29 September 2010, 9:43 pm

Been to the Mill a few times this week in an attempt to shock myself into better shape.  Instead i just shocked myself with how weak i am!  I haven't bouldered properly since the Dulas campaign in June when i was doing some extra training in the Cave. In the Mill i was struggling after the warm ups.  Strange you can be close to your hardest ever route and yet be completely weak as piss.  I always think though that it doesn't matter whether your weak, unfit or whatever at a given moment as long as you can climb what you want to climb at that time.  This is always how i've worked anyway.  A lot of it is about timing and getting on the right things and making sure you finish them at that moment.  As some small consolation i was better on the circuits in the Mill.

Source: Doylo's blog

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25 Days And Finally a Topout
7 October 2010, 7:22 pm

No i haven't crushed my project but after over 25 climbing days there i've finally done a route!!! Ok so Hysteria might not be the grandest of Diamond routes but its still a route.  Jonny R was looking good on his project falling with the jug basically in his hand - will be a cracker.  Have been back to the Mill a few times and the strength is slowly returning. Even popped into the Cave yesterday to see how shit i am.  Wasn't too bad just need some conditioning.  Quite keen for a few things in there this winter.

Source: Doylo's blog